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Old 07-20-2008, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by kobedaman24
just when i was making plans to do some mods to my car, it doesn't start. this car has had previous problems of not starting up and it seems to be happening again. im not sure if its a problem with the battery because the lights seem to turn on when i open a door, but the car won't start. previous times when it had done this, it was because i accidentally left the headlights on for about an hour, and the car wouldn't start and needed a jump. this time i was dusting the dashboard and cleaning the back with the door open, meaning the light was on for the door. i cleaned the car and was getting ready to go to kragen and the car wouldn't start.

when i attempt to start the car a bunch of lights turn on on the dash. the battery icon being one of them.

anybody know what i can do to solve this problem?

p.s the battery is rougly 2 years old. do you think i probably need a new battery? (this is what i thought the problem was, but i thought i'd get some professional help)

p.s.s i also think my car has a transmission problem because sometimes when it didn't start my dad used to hold the little overdrive button on the front of the shifter and move it to drive then to park. then it would start. i tried this and it didn't happen.. oh yeah and another transmission problem this car has is with a direct shift to "drive" gear. sometimes when i switch to D, it doesnt move, so i need to switch to 2, then D. my friend says i need to change the transmission fluid. do you think this will fix the problem?

this is probably the third time this has happened.. im having thoughts of selling the car if i cant get these things fixed with a low budget.

thanks for all your help
you definetly need to get your fluid checked but its not a serious problem for now if you dont know how long it has been since your fluid was changed then i would recomend a rebuild or 5spd swap like im workin on but basically all you need too do to start your car is sorta punch the shifter as far as it will go into park (try taking out shift lock brong it all the way down then back up again) if you cant even get the key to go all the way on then you need to shake the steering wheel side to side a lil to disengage some safety feauture. and i still bring the shifter all the way down to 2nd before D or else it will slip into nuetral

wait till it goes into fail safe mode atleast once before doing a whole rebuild or swap
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Old 07-20-2008, 10:15 AM
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WTB: Used working IACV for 91 Maxima

I want to try and replace the IACV but dont want to blow $115 bucks either. If anyone has this part laying I need a cheap but working one. Please post this in the classifieds if possible.

thanks
Nick
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lennyseleven
I want to try and replace the IACV but dont want to blow $115 bucks either. If anyone has this part laying I need a cheap but working one. Please post this in the classifieds if possible.

thanks
Nick
just go to the classifieds and look around at a few part-out posts. all 89-91 have your engine, and all GXE regardless of year (well, as long as it's a 3rd gen, of course) have your engine. if it's a 92SE, 93SE, or 94SE being parted out, don't even look in there because they have a totally different engine.

ctrl+f and see if IACV is mentioned in the post. if not, post and say "is the IACV still available" and go form there.

tho i think i have one that will fit your car... but it came off an engine with a broken timing belt so i can confirm that it works though.

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 07-20-2008 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:59 PM
  #1524  
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ATF type?

ok i have a 93 se with a ve30 in it and i am wondering what kind of atf we are suposed to use. on autozone.com's manual thing it says dexronIII is that true? and i know that synthetic fluid is the best to use so is dexronVI ok to use?
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:32 PM
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Dexron VI is NOT ok to use.
Dexron IV is ok to use, just be sure that it is synthetic for longest trans life.
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
Dexron VI is NOT ok to use.
Dexron IV is ok to use, just be sure that it is synthetic for longest trans life.

why isnt it ok to use? just to know?
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:43 PM
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it has different specs to it.
DEXRON VI is only to be used in vehicles specifying it, it is not backwards compatible.
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
it has different specs to it.
DEXRON VI is only to be used in vehicles specifying it, it is not backwards compatible.


wow that sucks the big one cause i just bought 6 quarts for $38


EDIT also it says on the bottle that it can be used where Dexron II/III are used

Last edited by 93maximaguy; 07-20-2008 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 93maximaguy
wow that sucks the big one cause i just bought 6 quarts for $38
why would you buy something without knowing if it works?
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
why would you buy something without knowing if it works?



because it says on the bottle that it will work in dexronII/III aplications

EDIT it also say on multiple sites that it will work in earlyer versions of dexron fluid transmissions and im just trying to see if its true

Last edited by 93maximaguy; 07-20-2008 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:13 PM
  #1531  
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when i last read the bottle i thought it said to the contrary.
maybe it was a different brand or my memory failing me
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:17 PM
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sorry hit post twice my reply is below

Last edited by 93maximaguy; 07-20-2008 at 04:18 PM. Reason: screwed up
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:17 PM
  #1533  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
when i last read the bottle i thought it said to the contrary.
maybe it was a different brand or my memory failing me


sorry i probly came off as a dipstick but i will post a link to valvoline's site and tell me what u think?


http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...sp?product=129
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:39 PM
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guess i remembered wrong
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
guess i remembered wrong

so do you think its ok to use?
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:45 PM
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if they are saying it is then they are responsible if it causes a failure.
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
if they are saying it is then they are responsible if it causes a failure.


so if it screws my trans then they have to pay for a new one correct?


edit well im realy nervous about doing this now but i am going to try it

Last edited by 93maximaguy; 07-20-2008 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 07-20-2008, 06:33 PM
  #1538  
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Random

I drive a 92 SE 5spd (Im sure as any veteran on here knows it has a VE) It has random spells when it noses over like you've shut the key off while your accelerating. The tach will also drop straight to zero instantaneously when it does this. Then within a few seconds it will take back off and the tach will jump back up where it is suppose to be. I dont know what it would be. Do any of you all know what it is?
Thanks
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Old 07-20-2008, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 94se5spd
I drive a 92 SE 5spd (Im sure as any veteran on here knows it has a VE) It has random spells when it noses over like you've shut the key off while your accelerating. The tach will also drop straight to zero instantaneously when it does this. Then within a few seconds it will take back off and the tach will jump back up where it is suppose to be. I dont know what it would be. Do any of you all know what it is?
Thanks
sounds like the engine is stalling. do you ever push the clutch, and it just magically resumes normal operation while still disengaged?
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Old 07-20-2008, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 94se5spd
I drive a 92 SE 5spd (Im sure as any veteran on here knows it has a VE) It has random spells when it noses over like you've shut the key off while your accelerating. The tach will also drop straight to zero instantaneously when it does this. Then within a few seconds it will take back off and the tach will jump back up where it is suppose to be. I dont know what it would be. Do any of you all know what it is?
Thanks
does climate control die too when this happens, and turnsignals, etc? basically i'm asking if everything that is part of the IGN-ON circuit is dying, or JUST the motor. if the motor lost, say, spark or fuel for a brief moment the tach should stay up if you're in gear. but it seems to me that if the tach is dying then your entire IGN-ON circuit is shutting off for some reason. which might be a dying relay. or it could be that your CAS has an intermittent connection issue. does CEL EVER come on when the engine stalls out like that?

my friend has a probe that randomly shuts the injectors off, but the ignition relay is fine... it may be the engine cont relay on his car or something. but his CEL never comes on b/c the engine is still rotating and the tach on his never drops. we have not solved his problem, but it's slightly different from yours. so i'd start with swapping in a new (or known good) ignition relay.
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Old 07-21-2008, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
you definetly need to get your fluid checked but its not a serious problem for now if you dont know how long it has been since your fluid was changed then i would recomend a rebuild or 5spd swap like im workin on but basically all you need too do to start your car is sorta punch the shifter as far as it will go into park (try taking out shift lock brong it all the way down then back up again) if you cant even get the key to go all the way on then you need to shake the steering wheel side to side a lil to disengage some safety feauture. and i still bring the shifter all the way down to 2nd before D or else it will slip into nuetral

wait till it goes into fail safe mode atleast once before doing a whole rebuild or swap
thanks a lot for the help, it started! would you or anyone else happen to know how much it would cost me to get the transmission fluid checked/changed, or can i do it myself (if i can do it myself, how much will the cost be?)

thanks
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kobedaman24
thanks a lot for the help, it started! would you or anyone else happen to know how much it would cost me to get the transmission fluid checked/changed, or can i do it myself (if i can do it myself, how much will the cost be?)

thanks
do not do it yourself
unless you know for sure the owner changed the fluid everytime he was supposed too since the car was made, these old cars for some complicated reason cant be flushed if u go too long without doing the flush the tranny will break down and you will have to buy a new one most mechanics are gonna have you sign a waiver saying basically if your car breaks from doing a tranny flush its your problem not theirs

if you really wanna try a flush do go to anyone but a certified nissan mechanic at a dealership but i would reccomend rebuilding it or swapping it
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by kobedaman24

p.s.s i also think my car has a transmission problem because sometimes when it didn't start my dad used to hold the little overdrive button on the front of the shifter and move it to drive then to park. then it would start. i tried this and it didn't happen.. oh yeah and another transmission problem this car has is with a direct shift to "drive" gear. sometimes when i switch to D, it doesnt move, so i need to switch to 2, then D. my friend says i need to change the transmission fluid. do you think this will fix the problem?

this is probably the third time this has happened.. im having thoughts of selling the car if i cant get these things fixed with a low budget.

thanks for all your help
Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e

do not do it yourself
unless you know for sure the owner changed the fluid everytime he was supposed too since the car was made, these old cars for some complicated reason cant be flushed if u go too long without doing the flush the tranny will break down and you will have to buy a new one most mechanics are gonna have you sign a waiver saying basically if your car breaks from doing a tranny flush its your problem not theirs

if you really wanna try a flush do go to anyone but a certified nissan mechanic at a dealership but i would reccomend rebuilding it or swapping it
Whoa. Whoa. Whoa.

1st of all, your "transmission problem" is very likely your shifter linkage bushing. Costs about $3 and about an hour of your time. Do a search and you will find detailed instructions here on how to change it. Don't go rebuilding or swapping your transmission

2ndly, you can CHANGE your transmission fluid yourself easily. Flushing is a little more complicated because you have to remove hoses but at this car's age it would probably be a better idea to change out the fluid, drive it for a couple weeks and change it again and repeat.
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:40 PM
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1st thanks for the tip on the shifter linkage bushing

2nd do a search yourself and check out all thepeole who flush a tranny that hasn't been maintained properly and count how many people end up with a busted transmission and explain to me why every mechanic i ask about it tells me the exact same thing
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
1st thanks for the tip on the shifter linkage bushing

2nd do a search yourself and check out all thepeole who flush a tranny that hasn't been maintained properly and count how many people end up with a busted transmission and explain to me why every mechanic i ask about it tells me the exact same thing
the metal particles and crap floating around inside there kinda keep some of the worn seals and stuff from leaking. fresh fluid has none of that. meaning when the levee breaks, cryin' won't do you no good.
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by kobedaman24
p.s.s i also think my car has a transmission problem because sometimes when it didn't start my dad used to hold the little overdrive button on the front of the shifter and move it to drive then to park. then it would start. i tried this and it didn't happen.. oh yeah and another transmission problem this car has is with a direct shift to "drive" gear. sometimes when i switch to D, it doesnt move, so i need to switch to 2, then D. my friend says i need to change the transmission fluid. do you think this will fix the problem?

this is probably the third time this has happened.. im having thoughts of selling the car if i cant get these things fixed with a low budget.

thanks for all your help

Under neath your car in front of that cat is the shift linkage adjustment, i would suggest adjusting that before anything else. i had the same problem when i replaced my tranny, after adjusting it it was fine, its two nuts on a shaft with a bracket inbetween them losen the one toward the front of the car a 1/2 turn to one full turn the tighten the rear nut. you my need PB blast to loosen the nuts takes 15 minutes.
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 300zmax
Under neath your car in front of that cat is the shift linkage adjustment, i would suggest adjusting that before anything else. i had the same problem when i replaced my tranny, after adjusting it it was fine, its two nuts on a shaft with a bracket inbetween them losen the one toward the front of the car a 1/2 turn to one full turn the tighten the rear nut. you my need PB blast to loosen the nuts takes 15 minutes.
eh, bushings first. that way if all it was was bushings, then you don't have to go back and readjust anything. if your car is cool you can replace the under-shifter bushing in 5 minutes, including jack-up time. you can replace the upper bushing on the tranny in 2 minutes.
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
eh, bushings first. that way if all it was was bushings, then you don't have to go back and readjust anything. if your car is cool you can replace the under-shifter bushing in 5 minutes, including jack-up time. you can replace the upper bushing on the tranny in 2 minutes.
true good point. and for the price of the bushing its a good idea to just change them out.
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:46 AM
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i was looking at the NWP spacer for the VG engines and i saw something odd in this picture, to the right of the IAC is a vacuum devise of some sort, does anyone know what that is, its not on my car i have a 1991 max automatic
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 300zmax
i was looking at the NWP spacer for the VG engines and i saw something odd in this picture, to the right of the IAC is a vacuum devise of some sort, does anyone know what that is, its not on my car i have a 1991 max automatic
good eye. those pics are of my car, since i was the prototype car. the part is a backpressure transducer for the EGR system. aka EGRC-BPT. it does something. i don't know what. all mine seems do is make duck-call noises when i rev the engine.

my fed-spec 1990GXE with a 1994 California Spec engine
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u.../90GXE_BPT.jpg
a typical fed-spec VG
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...1SE_no_BPT.jpg
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Old 07-22-2008, 11:47 AM
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that makes sense, cool. so does it make you feel like your playing duck hunt again, lol
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Old 07-22-2008, 11:58 AM
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The normal VG has one too, it's just mounted lower. If you look from the side of your engine it's clearly visible.
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Old 07-22-2008, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 300zmax
that makes sense, cool. so does it make you feel like your playing duck hunt again, lol
ntrly

i'm taking it off tho b/c i live approximately 3000 miles from the closest place i'd need that emissions system. well i'm actually swapping in an 89 fedspec motor and putting that motor in another maxima.
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
1st thanks for the tip on the shifter linkage bushing

2nd do a search yourself and check out all thepeole who flush a tranny that hasn't been maintained properly and count how many people end up with a busted transmission and explain to me why every mechanic i ask about it tells me the exact same thing
I think we largely agree. A flush can cause more problems than it solves on high mileage cars w/o a history of regular fluid changes. That's why I told him to change the fluid himself and repeat the procedure 2 or 3 times. That is a compromise between a total flush and just leaving the old fluid in there. That's what I did after 150k+ miles with no ATF change and have had no problems whatsoever.

As far as mechanics, well, I've dealt with a few good ones and a lot more not-so-good ones so I take anything they say with a gigantic grain of salt.
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Old 07-22-2008, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by crabapple
I think we largely agree. A flush can cause more problems than it solves on high mileage cars w/o a history of regular fluid changes. That's why I told him to change the fluid himself and repeat the procedure 2 or 3 times. That is a compromise between a total flush and just leaving the old fluid in there. That's what I did after 150k+ miles with no ATF change and have had no problems whatsoever.

As far as mechanics, well, I've dealt with a few good ones and a lot more not-so-good ones so I take anything they say with a gigantic grain of salt.
i agree thats why i said its possible but if u really wanna do it to save some money compared to a rebuild then go to a dealership they are gauranteed to have the tools to do it right and the knowledge of what really causes this problem that way some retard at jiffy lube doesn't destroy his tranny and stick him with the bill

also if u were about to change your battery because your transmission wasnt in park then you probably know less then the jiffy lube guy and way less than a certified nissan mechanic

you may have more knowledge of how trannies work u may have a way better treated transmission or u couldve just gotten lucky but in the end an old tranny needs a reuild and doin a proper flush would increase the time from now till the when the rebuild has to be done compared to any DIY job
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Old 07-22-2008, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
i agree thats why i said its possible but if u really wanna do it to save some money compared to a rebuild then go to a dealership they are gauranteed to have the tools to do it right and the knowledge of what really causes this problem that way some retard at jiffy lube doesn't destroy his tranny and stick him with the bill

also if u were about to change your battery because your transmission wasnt in park then you probably know less then the jiffy lube guy and way less than a certified nissan mechanic

you may have more knowledge of how trannies work u may have a way better treated transmission or u couldve just gotten lucky but in the end an old tranny needs a reuild and doin a proper flush would increase the time from now till the when the rebuild has to be done compared to any DIY job
my brother had the dealership flush his tranny. they said flushing a poorly maintained tranny might kill it. he said do it anyways. a month later his car was at a transmission shop. EOS.
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:42 PM
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Hey everyone, first off great forum, im on it almost every day and its been really helpful. Alright, im needing to pull my timing belt off on my 89 auto VG30E to re-time the engine (stupid friend... "every time the piston goes up its a compression stroke") and im trying to take the water pump/power steering belt off and i cant seem to find the tensioner on it, i found the one for the PS but it doesnt loosen up the belt whatsoever, anyone know an easy way to get to the tensioner for said belt? Also my timing belt cover is all beaten up and the timing indicater is actually slightly moble, the top cover is off and gone but im not sure whats holding on the bottom cover (how many screws, any of them in hidden areas) any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by yourripper
Hey everyone, first off great forum, im on it almost every day and its been really helpful. Alright, im needing to pull my timing belt off on my 89 auto VG30E to re-time the engine (stupid friend... "every time the piston goes up its a compression stroke") and im trying to take the water pump/power steering belt off and i cant seem to find the tensioner on it, i found the one for the PS but it doesnt loosen up the belt whatsoever, anyone know an easy way to get to the tensioner for said belt? Also my timing belt cover is all beaten up and the timing indicater is actually slightly moble, the top cover is off and gone but im not sure whats holding on the bottom cover (how many screws, any of them in hidden areas) any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
there should be a lock bolt on the PS tensioner... undo that and beat on the tensioner a time or two with a screwdriver->hammer and that should loosen it. as for timing it, there's marks of where to line everything up... and marks on the belt, so it should go straight on if you line it up right.
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Old 07-23-2008, 04:25 AM
  #1559  
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Lock up problem solved? i think.

Originally Posted by 300zmax
hello, i am having a problem with my transmission. i have a 1991 maxima with automatic transmission. lately the while driving down the highway (between 50 and 65mph mostly) the car will shift in and out off lock up. it does it on flat roads and not on hills that i have noticed. if i go faster than 65 it stops. on board diagnostics come ok. fluid is full and clean, and the tranny was replaced about 20k miles ago. enegine has 205k and runs well. any ideas.

thank you.
follow up on my lock up issue, after doing an oil change the other day i noticed that the vacuum hose on the powervalve was missing. after digging around i found a replacement hose and fixed it. since then the issues that i was having with lock up not staying on while driving 50 to 65 mph have stopped. im not sure if this would have an affect on the tranny but it has been almost 400 miles since i fixed the hose with no issues and increased gas mileage!

thanks again for all the help!
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Old 07-23-2008, 06:21 AM
  #1560  
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Originally Posted by 300zmax
follow up on my lock up issue, after doing an oil change the other day i noticed that the vacuum hose on the powervalve was missing. after digging around i found a replacement hose and fixed it. since then the issues that i was having with lock up not staying on while driving 50 to 65 mph have stopped. im not sure if this would have an affect on the tranny but it has been almost 400 miles since i fixed the hose with no issues and increased gas mileage!

thanks again for all the help!
it may have somehow ended up that the vac leak caused by the powervalve hose being gone had a trickle-down effect by causing you to drive the car differently without knowing you were doing so.. like perhaps having to use more throttle than you should, thereby making it say "oops too much throttle for lockup!"
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