93maximaguy

ok stupid question again... ive never worked with cop ignition ever but i am somewhat familiar with ignition systems. is it possible at all to use an aftermarket ignition on the ve30de? not for any reason i just like to know all i can about any car i own and i like to know any possible mods to do for them. so all-in-all just wondering.

rev93

Fuses were the first thing I checked.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

my answer is biased
http://internetautosupply.com/catalog/

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

there is no aftermarket COP ignition system.

mrclown2001

Great thank you, I did change the front but the rear look impossible Ill try cleaning them, they do look like they're dry/cracked....thanks

93maximaguy

thats what i thought just wondering anyway. thanks

IMKC

I recently bought my first Maxima, a 92 GXE. Well, the tranny just bit the dust and now I am faced with deciding what to do.

From what I have read, it sounds like these trannys are problematic. This makes me nervous about getting one out of the wrecker because I have no way of knowing how long that one might last.

A rebuilt from one of the online shops looks like it will run about $1400 once you add on the core and shipping charges.

So, what do others tend to do when their tranny's die?

Also, is it possible to use a RE4F04A tranny with a GXE SOHC?

Thanks in advance for reading and any suggestions that may be offered.


KC

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

one member is in the process of trying to make the 4A fit, but as of yet, it's not feasable (or known to have been done) on a SOHC max. You can put in a 5spd (either SOHC or DOHC.. just remember the hubs and axles if you use the DOHC tranny, otherwise they go in the same way. i've got a thread from when i did my a/t to m/t swap and can tell you everything you'll need)

You can also look in the classifieds on this site and see if anyone's got a 2A rebuilt and ready to sell. You are correct about the hit-and-miss nature of JY automatics for the SOHC. My a/t went from "shifts superbly" to "omg!! *panic* wtf happened! *hazard lights* PLEASE coast until i can turn off this highway.. PLEEEEASE!!!" instantaneously with NO warning signs at all. so even a fully functional JY a/t for the SOHC cannot be trusted.

real options:

• m/t swap
• have tranny shop rebuild your a/t (your current one, or jy unit if you can't remove this one yet)
• buy one already rebuilt
• get up with that member that bought a NEW tranny for $1000 (still in effing shrinkwrap and stickered-and-sealed by Nissan) and get one of those if there's any left (i forgot who did this!)
• get a good set of tools and replace your a/t with a guaranteed JY unit every time it fails (guaranteed for 6 months... so you'll probalby keep getting free one after free one haha) until your local JY is empty of SOHC a/ts

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

no that transmission will not, I repeat, NOT fit. the vq engine(95-99, aka 4th gen)has a totally different engine with a totally different bolt pattern, as well as CV-axle pattern/fit(whatever its called)

people face the obvious choices when replacing their autos. junk the car, and buy another car, or replace the transmission.

a couple of swap ideas that have been done include 5-speed swaps(check the stickies, and a thread called "capedcadaver's tranny swap blog")

you could also try and be the first to swap in a 92-94 se auto (which would constitute massive fabrications to the intake and other serious modifications, since the starter sits on top of the tranny, rather than near the front of the car(side of the tranny))

OR, just bite the bullet, and replace with a new/used/reman auto transmission like the one in it.

sorry, bud.

btw, once you get the tranny sorted out, these can be great cars.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

wait i thought the VE auto was the RE4F04A... i hate these trans codes. what is the VE auto then?

and am i really in the stickies?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

RE4F04V=VE30DE auto.
RE4F04A=vq30de auto.
unless you are in a different part of the world where they stuffed non-vlsd guts into a ve auto...
nah, i didn't see you in the stickies, but that may just mean i didnt look in the right threads.(but there is nfo about manual swaps).

(edit: there is info about the RE4F04V in the 1999 FSM... hmmm.... but nobody is selling any for a 4th gen on ebay. thats where i did the quick search to begin with.)

Obsession_92-94

Does anyone know if window tint will work as a good HUD screen for the windshield? I have found that it would be much more expensive to replace the one that I have already (although it might not hurt, but I figure that if it ain't broke, don't fix it).

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

no, i'm just dumb is all. i'm in the southeast US haha. i just was forgetting the VE auto was VLSD. Annnyhow.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I assume that you just want to do a patch? if so, most tints seem to want to peel, especially when installed by a non-pro(no offense)
have you considered windshield paint? dunno where to get it, but it may be what you want. or perhaps some other paint, experimenting on what would adhere to glass(<--you could get ahold of a media blaster to roughen up the glass surface, give the paint something to "stick" to.) of course, all this kinda defeats the purpose of a HUD, doesnt it? or would it enhance it... I dunno, I can only offer what i think I know.

IMKC

Thanks benstoked and capedcadaver! Your advice is greatly appreciated.

I have PM'd the member who ordered the new part because I am curious to know how it all worked out

It's looking like I will have to spend around $1400 to have a rebuilt shipped to me. I would rather spend $1k for one of the new ones, but those are RE4F04A's.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=560665

found it

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

just some clearing up.
RE4F04*
A is an open differential
V is a VLSD equipped differential

if it was bolted up to a VQ it won't bolt up to a VE/G
the RE4F04* was used with the VE, but has an issue with starter and flywheel meeting when both are the correct part (VG flywheel, VE starter) when installed in a 3rd gen with a VG and the trans is from a VE.

That all being said, you may be able to use the RE4F04 out of a Quest with the flywheel from the quest IF it is needed. no one has tried it yet as far as I know. But in theory it should all work perfectly, and I see no reason why not.

lennyseleven

I have gotten a bad misfire recently, I tried swapping the plugs around to diagnose plugs or fuel injectors, seemed to point to fuel injectors. So I replaced all 6, put engine back together, replaced a few old vacuum lines, and problem persists. I tried cleaning the iacv, but Im not entirely sure if it even was the iacv, anyone have a picture of it? I tried maf cleaner, and removed the maf while idling and nothing changed.

any ideas?

thanks

1991 3.0

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

did you pull the plug wires one at a time to see if it was a specific cylinder that was misfiring?
how old are the Cap Rotor wires plugs?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

did you use brand new injectors when you replaced them or what? how were the resistance figures for the injectors?

lennyseleven

Cap, rotor plugs and wires might be 6 months old. Just changed them nottoo long ago. Yea I pulled them trying to figure out which cylinder, and was getting two cylinders. So I switched plugs to see if anything changed and it was the same two cylinders which is why I changed fuel injectors.

Now If I pull any wires nothing really changes.

Obsession_92-94

I would be looking to do a patch. I would most likely have it done by someone who knows what he or she is doing. Usually tinting would only peel if the air bubbles were not smoothed out all the way or it were getting wear.
What gave you the idea of windshield paint? Would it be completely opaque or what? See I have seen windshields equipped for a HUD. There is a light tint to it, but there has to be something more to it to cancel out any glare on the HUD from the sun. The other thing is that it seems as though it is in the glass as opposed to a film or something on the windshield (on the other hand, there has to be a film there because in the service manual I have, it recommends covering that area with something so as not to scratch it when removing the HUD for any reason).

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the idea came from seeing some GM cars with a noticeable black perimeter (probably to hide the adhesive), its on most, if not all, makes, but i have noticed it most on GMs. my thinking was to allow the HUD to hit that, so it would be closer to the line of site while driving(the purpose of HUD), but since it is opaque, it would probably not be a correct HUD. and since i have never gotten a chance to sit in a car equipped with HUD, I haven't seen the tint they have. is the hud viewable without the tint?
(and like i said, i can only offer what i think i know, and since i know little about these, I can offer alternatives as to what might work, based on what i know.)

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

never noticed anything unusual on my old bonnie with the HUD

Setol One

I can get a deal on a set of new blue ngk wires, But I don't want to buy them if they won't work let me know plz. also is a bosch dist. cap any good?
thanks for all the help lately!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

dunno about the 2nd gen wires, but SCREW BOSCH. hard. up the, erm... rotor button...

Setol One

I haven't worked with any distributed ignition systems,
except a '73 chevy fleetside with a 305 V8 which is probably nothing alike.
All my other vehicles have been electronic w/ coils all I know is can screw up the timing etc.
What distributor, dist. cap, plugs, wires for the vg30e should I get?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the distro itself doesn't need replacing. NGK Copper/VPower are good plugs. I've heard good things about magstar 8mm wires, and NGK wires are good as well. As for the cap, we'll wait for Wiking to share his thoughts on that. He's got about as close to a distributor cap fetish as anyone can have. I just know that he'd rather drive a manual transmission than use bosch stuff. Tho bosch does make some OE parts for us, like injectors and o2 sensor, usually their ignition stuff works better in european-brand cars. I know bosch plugs are a no-go. Maybe i'm wrong about the cap but i thought i remembered him bashing the bosch caps too.

Setol One

We'll see, right now I have (NGK Double Platinum, PFR6B-11, Gap .044") plugs I pulled out of my VE in my VG. Bought them in 2005 for $11.00US each, they have about 5,000 miles on them when should they be replaced?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

platinums will last a long time in a good-running engine. but as our engines get older and have random problems, the plugs can get fouled up quicker, meaning they'd need to be replaced anyways, which is why lots of us use the cheap copper ones. If your VG runs really well, and the plugs aren't fouled, just check them every so often and if they look OK leave them in until you get to 40k miles on them. personally, i use coppers, and change them on my car's purchase-date anniversary (june 30th), along with the cap and rotor, and i might get some of those thicker wires too.... i know my current wires suck.

but yea those plugs you have in there are good plugs too as long as your engine runs well enough not to foul them up.

Setol One

Good to know, thanks!

93maximaguy

yet another stupid question from a new guy. is it posible at all to put a lower intake manifold from a vg30de on a ve30de not for any real reson just wanting to know cause im weird like that

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

I am not 100 percent, but I think they have a different design.

I have an extra lower manifold (and an extra AT upper manifold) that I might be willing to part with.

rev93

Have you checked the compression? Are the two cylinders right next to each other? if so, could be a blown head gasket.

93maximaguy

so how much???

citimax

I recently bought a 92 se. I have a problem with the car starting even though the clutch pedal is not depressed. I need to fix that to get a safety certificate on the car . From what I understand, there is a clutch pedal switch that might be broken or be bypassed. How do I find it, know if it is bad and fix it?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

ascd


use a multimeter to test continuity on the pins in both open and closed positions.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there's 2 switches on the pedal tho... ascd switch won't cause the car to start when it shouldn't...

my car starts in neutral OR with the clutch depressed. i almost always start it in neutral unless i stall out, then i just leave it in gear and push the clutch.

citimax

I'll get a multimeter and check the ascd switch on the weekend but it seems to be more for the cruise control. Where is the 2nd switch located on the clutch pedal and can I use the multimeter to test it too?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the 2nd switch is in the back.. you'll see a blue harness plugging into a switch closer to that black rubberish matting that the pedal arm gouges into every time you push the pedal haha.