*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima GXE with a SOHC VG30E motor. The motor (used, ~38,000 miles) was dropped in about 2 months ago after a head gasket blew on the original (~150,000 miles)... for two days after the new motor was in, it was difficult to start - it would crank and eventually start - sometimes taking 20-30 minutes to start up. Then the problem went away for two months, until it stalled out at a stoplight. Now it won't start at all. From reading the forums here, it sounds like the most likely candidate is one of the two crankshaft sensors... except that I can't find either of the sensors on the engine or the transaxle. The Haynes manual is wonderfully NOT helpful here, as the diagram below indicates that the sensor is located in a position that is completely devoid of sensors on my vehicle:
[IMG]http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/63/39//small/0900c15280076339.jpg[IMG]
Consulting the NAPA site, the two crankshaft sensors pictured look nothing like the sensors in the Haynes manual (and cost about 4x as much as what is pictured in Haynes). As of yet, I cannot locate anything to do with either crankshaft sensor in the FSM.
As far as the no-start issue goes, I have spark, I have fuel, and I have compression; cranking the starter will cause the distributor to turn.
Putting the ECM into diagnostic mode generates an error code for the CTS, but I don't think that this would prevent the car from starting?
Please help!
[IMG]http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/63/39//small/0900c15280076339.jpg[IMG]
Consulting the NAPA site, the two crankshaft sensors pictured look nothing like the sensors in the Haynes manual (and cost about 4x as much as what is pictured in Haynes). As of yet, I cannot locate anything to do with either crankshaft sensor in the FSM.
As far as the no-start issue goes, I have spark, I have fuel, and I have compression; cranking the starter will cause the distributor to turn.
Putting the ECM into diagnostic mode generates an error code for the CTS, but I don't think that this would prevent the car from starting?
Please help!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 513
From: Charleston, SC
http://www.youtube.com/user/Infam0usMax On there is the day time vid you guys asked me to post to you could get a better understanding of where i had the cam but there is a lot more going on now with it since then the vides are harder and it shifts harder also there is vid of the engine in and out of gear it lifts up when in drive and when im driving down the road the car seem to not want to pull and i think there is a hole in the exhast system somewhere
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4
NEW MAXIMA LIFE...
I WANT TO REBUILD MY MAXIMA FROM TOP TO BOTTOM WITH MODS AND FIX IT TO MAKE IT A SHOW CAR. ITS A 1992 MAXIMA SE AND I WAS WONDERING IF EVERYBODY COULD LIST SOME OF THE MODS THEY'VE DONE AND WHERE TO GET PARTS. I'VE ONLY BEEN ABLE TO LOCATE A FEW THINGS AND HAVE SOME PRETTY GOOD IDEAS AS TO WHAT I WANT MY CAR TO LOOK LIKE. BUT I WANT INPUT FROM PEOPLE AND SHARE THERE IDEAS. OH BTW FINDING PARTS FOR THIS CAR HAS BECOME A STRUGGLE, ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Infam0usMax On there is the day time vid you guys asked me to post to you could get a better understanding of where i had the cam but there is a lot more going on now with it since then the vides are harder and it shifts harder also there is vid of the engine in and out of gear it lifts up when in drive and when im driving down the road the car seem to not want to pull and i think there is a hole in the exhast system somewhere
Also sounds like a dead miss in the first vid by the sound of the muffler, most likely an injector down..
I WANT TO REBUILD MY MAXIMA FROM TOP TO BOTTOM WITH MODS AND FIX IT TO MAKE IT A SHOW CAR. ITS A 1992 MAXIMA SE AND I WAS WONDERING IF EVERYBODY COULD LIST SOME OF THE MODS THEY'VE DONE AND WHERE TO GET PARTS. I'VE ONLY BEEN ABLE TO LOCATE A FEW THINGS AND HAVE SOME PRETTY GOOD IDEAS AS TO WHAT I WANT MY CAR TO LOOK LIKE. BUT I WANT INPUT FROM PEOPLE AND SHARE THERE IDEAS. OH BTW FINDING PARTS FOR THIS CAR HAS BECOME A STRUGGLE, ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS.
go here for brakes and chassis braces http://www.mattblehm.com/
go here for lots of things http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals-sponsors-forum-17/
go to http://www.stillen.com/browse.asp for more stuff.
go here for even more stuff http://nwpengineering.com/
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 513
From: Charleston, SC
That just sucks and i just replaced the one in the front and i still cant seem to get my hands on some injectors for a good price. but thanks for looking at the vids man...
Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
From: Raleigh, NC
So I pulled of the electrical connector to my #3 injector and there was green dust in there( corrosion?).
Also there is no continuity between the terminals.
I'm guess this means it's dead, I'd just like a confirmation.
Also there is no continuity between the terminals.
I'm guess this means it's dead, I'd just like a confirmation.
if you need any help with it lemme know. i replaced my injectors a few months ago (granted, i used the wrong ones {259cc instead of 180cc}, so that's why it's all fubar now, but procedurally it all came out right) so it's still fresh in my mind
Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
From: Raleigh, NC
I'm going to try and do it after work today, along with the valve cover gaskets.
I also notice that under hard shifting I can hear my blow off valve dump. Normally I would not care, but I don't have a turbo...
And as an aside, I have a spare HKS S-AFC lying around, does anyone think I'll get anything extra from a stock motor with a little fuel tuning?
I also notice that under hard shifting I can hear my blow off valve dump. Normally I would not care, but I don't have a turbo...
And as an aside, I have a spare HKS S-AFC lying around, does anyone think I'll get anything extra from a stock motor with a little fuel tuning?
I'm going to try and do it after work today, along with the valve cover gaskets.
I also notice that under hard shifting I can hear my blow off valve dump. Normally I would not care, but I don't have a turbo...
And as an aside, I have a spare HKS S-AFC lying around, does anyone think I'll get anything extra from a stock motor with a little fuel tuning?
I also notice that under hard shifting I can hear my blow off valve dump. Normally I would not care, but I don't have a turbo...
And as an aside, I have a spare HKS S-AFC lying around, does anyone think I'll get anything extra from a stock motor with a little fuel tuning?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
From: Raleigh, NC
so got a call from warpspeed today y pipe shipped out today,
I ordered it last sunday night WTF...my flex pipe broke the friday before I ordered the y pipe and it sounds like a honda derby car so as I thought I would be installing it today, thats was a joke so I cooked my side marker lights and painted inside black to match my e36 headlights and also painted the front bumper signals too so now when I get pulled over at least the cop can enjoy the front lights all matching as he gives me my loud exhaust ticket
I ordered it last sunday night WTF...my flex pipe broke the friday before I ordered the y pipe and it sounds like a honda derby car so as I thought I would be installing it today, thats was a joke so I cooked my side marker lights and painted inside black to match my e36 headlights and also painted the front bumper signals too so now when I get pulled over at least the cop can enjoy the front lights all matching as he gives me my loud exhaust ticket
Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
From: Raleigh, NC
so got a call from warpspeed today y pipe shipped out today, I ordered it last sunday night WTF...my flex pipe broke the friday before I ordered the y pipe and it sounds like a honda derby car so as I thought I would be installing it today, thats was a joke so I cooked my side marker lights and painted inside black to match my e36 headlights and also painted the front bumper signals too so now when I get pulled over at least the cop can enjoy the front lights all matching as he gives me my loud exhaust ticket
I ordered it last sunday night WTF...my flex pipe broke the friday before I ordered the y pipe and it sounds like a honda derby car so as I thought I would be installing it today, thats was a joke so I cooked my side marker lights and painted inside black to match my e36 headlights and also painted the front bumper signals too so now when I get pulled over at least the cop can enjoy the front lights all matching as he gives me my loud exhaust ticketCan I see some pics of the lights, I wanted to do something like that to mine.
if you drive without the A/C on and it doesn't do it. Then it is a pressure bleed off of some sort. One of my old ones did that, I solved it by stopping driving like an idiot so I got better gas mileage and the compressor didn't build up excess pressure. There probably isn't much you can do about it. Don't worry too much about it.
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 78
im looking at doing some suspension work after recently doing a 180 coming off a highway exit too fast and the first thing im looking for is a sway bar. ive found a few, best bet would be through stillen, and a few others, although the largest thickness i can find is only 3/4". are there any thicker sway bars out there??
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
also just swapped my tranny for another of the same year model also an automatic. i found an engine and tranny combo at the first junkyard i went to for $400. working 3 hours a day 3 days a week it took about a month and a total of 24 hours to swap it out working completely by myself, not too bad of a job i think. new tranny works great unless i floor it. takes a little bit longer to shift from 1st to 2nd but im not too worried about it. i would like to thank capedcadaver for all the info he gave on doing the auto-stick swap, ill be looking into that later.
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
also just swapped my tranny for another of the same year model also an automatic. i found an engine and tranny combo at the first junkyard i went to for $400. working 3 hours a day 3 days a week it took about a month and a total of 24 hours to swap it out working completely by myself, not too bad of a job i think. new tranny works great unless i floor it. takes a little bit longer to shift from 1st to 2nd but im not too worried about it. i would like to thank capedcadaver for all the info he gave on doing the auto-stick swap, ill be looking into that later.
im looking at doing some suspension work after recently doing a 180 coming off a highway exit too fast and the first thing im looking for is a sway bar. ive found a few, best bet would be through stillen, and a few others, although the largest thickness i can find is only 3/4". are there any thicker sway bars out there??
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
no coil overs, yes lowering springs. yes there have been bagged 3rd gens.
im looking at doing some suspension work after recently doing a 180 coming off a highway exit too fast and the first thing im looking for is a sway bar. ive found a few, best bet would be through stillen, and a few others, although the largest thickness i can find is only 3/4". are there any thicker sway bars out there??
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
I was in a wet parking lot (when I first got the car), and I TRIED to get it sideways. whole downshifting, while yanking the e-brake, etc., and couldn't get it more than 20* off straight, before it straightened out, or turned properly.
and this was on a stock car, with a broken rear sway bar mount (at the time).
so check your tires/struts sway bar mounts. fix the problems.
afterwords, good drop is aproximately... [eibach] inches.
but remember, if your struts are shot, you will make sure they are trash if you drop before fixing them [with at least tokicos].
Last edited by BenStoked; May 28, 2009 at 05:13 PM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
From: Brick NJ
WSP Y-Pipe replacement rusted cat bolts
I just got my new wsp ypipe toady and within decent time i got the manifold bolts broken loose, but i can not get the stubborn cat bolts to budge. I have searched the org and tryed alot of the tricks to no avial. Breaker bar PB blaster even heat have no effect. I got most of the job done with hand tools, but not the two cat bolts. The flex section on the oem pipe is nearly broken at the end, it seems the harder i pull on the bolts the closer the system looks like its about to fall out......Any tips please
I just got my new wsp ypipe toady and within decent time i got the manifold bolts broken loose, but i can not get the stubborn cat bolts to budge. I have searched the org and tryed alot of the tricks to no avial. Breaker bar PB blaster even heat have no effect. I got most of the job done with hand tools, but not the two cat bolts. The flex section on the oem pipe is nearly broken at the end, it seems the harder i pull on the bolts the closer the system looks like its about to fall out......Any tips please
1)drilling the bolts out (using new, stainless nuts and bolts)
2)and let a shop finish.
I just got my new wsp ypipe toady and within decent time i got the manifold bolts broken loose, but i can not get the stubborn cat bolts to budge. I have searched the org and tryed alot of the tricks to no avial. Breaker bar PB blaster even heat have no effect. I got most of the job done with hand tools, but not the two cat bolts. The flex section on the oem pipe is nearly broken at the end, it seems the harder i pull on the bolts the closer the system looks like its about to fall out......Any tips please
Last edited by black94se; May 29, 2009 at 11:04 AM.
im looking at doing some suspension work after recently doing a 180 coming off a highway exit too fast and the first thing im looking for is a sway bar. ive found a few, best bet would be through stillen, and a few others, although the largest thickness i can find is only 3/4". are there any thicker sway bars out there??
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
also just swapped my tranny for another of the same year model also an automatic. i found an engine and tranny combo at the first junkyard i went to for $400. working 3 hours a day 3 days a week it took about a month and a total of 24 hours to swap it out working completely by myself, not too bad of a job i think. new tranny works great unless i floor it. takes a little bit longer to shift from 1st to 2nd but im not too worried about it. i would like to thank capedcadaver for all the info he gave on doing the auto-stick swap, ill be looking into that later.
also looking at lowering after i get a front strut bar. is there any chance in hell they make coilovers for the 3rd gen? if not, whats a good drop? i was thinking about 1.5"
also just swapped my tranny for another of the same year model also an automatic. i found an engine and tranny combo at the first junkyard i went to for $400. working 3 hours a day 3 days a week it took about a month and a total of 24 hours to swap it out working completely by myself, not too bad of a job i think. new tranny works great unless i floor it. takes a little bit longer to shift from 1st to 2nd but im not too worried about it. i would like to thank capedcadaver for all the info he gave on doing the auto-stick swap, ill be looking into that later.
get ur tires replaced....... but if u got the money for coilovers then get a set of KONI struts & eibach springs which has 1.2" drop its not reccomended to go much lower and you can stiffen suspension with a lower tie bar rear parrellel kit or a rstb from blehmco.com as for a sway bar i know st suspension also makes 3/4" thick one which should be thick enough
I just got my new wsp ypipe toady and within decent time i got the manifold bolts broken loose, but i can not get the stubborn cat bolts to budge. I have searched the org and tryed alot of the tricks to no avial. Breaker bar PB blaster even heat have no effect. I got most of the job done with hand tools, but not the two cat bolts. The flex section on the oem pipe is nearly broken at the end, it seems the harder i pull on the bolts the closer the system looks like its about to fall out......Any tips please
use sawzall, dremel, hack saw, cutting torch, etc and cut the bolts off.
once it's cut pull off old y-pipe. use a hammer and punch out the stud on the cat flange.
go to pep girls and pick up metric M8 bolts, nuts, washers, tube of anti seize, high temp paint.
thread new hardware with gasket on flange and tighten. use anti seize on the threads and spray the entire mess w/ high temp paint.
if you have the $, time, and if there's a place local switch up to stainless hardware.
if you pulled your ebrake then you wouldn't be here posting....so i give the entire story a
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
From: Brick NJ
A buddy of mine just gave me and impact wrench so i just pbed, heated them and pbed them again i will let it soak in and will try the air wrench when i get off work. if theres no luck sawzaw it will be.
trust me...save yourself the trouble and time and just cut it off. the impact still needs a swivel socket since it's not a direct shot...and the flange is tilted up so the higher nut is next to impossible. busted many many knuckles on it.
they rebuilt my dremel twice on one and once on a new one.
i'm getting tired of these things blowing up and smoking.
u can drive out here in northern ct that fast in the winter cuz there are no traffic cops sittin in the snow banks
........one time i was doin around 120 and sometimes snow will clump up between the lanes so the road would be sorta melted from cars driving over it......... so as i changed lanes and ran into that clump of snow separating the two lanes i lost control of steering and i couldn't brake it sorta felt like the snow was pushing back on the brake pedal itself....but the brakes weren't working and i couldn't steer it...since i was in the left lane going over an overpass i grabbed the ebrake i could feel the rear wheels immedietly lock up and sorta anchor the car down i came to a full stop in the middle of the freeway and i could see traffic behind me sorta slow down all together i slowly drove over the lane (when your not doing 120 the snow seperating the lanes doesn't really mess with u) and drove 65 all way back ...sorta of near death experience cuz i beleive that if i didn't grab the ebrake i woulda smacked into a weak lil metal gate thing and just flew off and down a hill or worse skidded a lil further and did a backflip off a bridge that went ova another road
so if no cops are around that automatically makes it OK to speed huh? you might take that back when you lose control going "120mph" on an icy road and slam head-on into a mom with her kid in the backseat, killing her, and leaving the kid w/o a mother. you're nothing but a scum if that's your attitude about driving.
wouldn't be posting as in you'd be DEAD, ********!
so if no cops are around that automatically makes it OK to speed huh? you might take that back when you lose control going "120mph" on an icy road and slam head-on into a mom with her kid in the backseat, killing her, and leaving the kid w/o a mother. you're nothing but a scum if that's your attitude about driving.
so if no cops are around that automatically makes it OK to speed huh? you might take that back when you lose control going "120mph" on an icy road and slam head-on into a mom with her kid in the backseat, killing her, and leaving the kid w/o a mother. you're nothing but a scum if that's your attitude about driving.
......but i was wondering why he said that when in fact if i didn't use the ebrake then i would be dead