RivuxGamma

Update:

I was cleaning some electrical contacts in case it might be a bad ground, with the positive battery cable disconnected, and I found that someone put the negative battery cable on upside down. So I flipped it over, reconnected it, and, just for the heck of it, tried starting it up. It started fine so I drove it around the block. It shifted just fine through all the gears, the temp gauge didn't act up, the radiator fans weren't constantly running. Still no tach, though. Thrilled, I went about changing the oil, air filter, etc. and parked it. I started it up again later and all the problems that had gone away came back. Also, the horn started working again before I cleaned the contacts or disconnected the battery.

I haven't yet checked the odometer reading with highway markers, but I should be able to tomorrow.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

clean the battery poost and replace the battery cable terminal end.

Chalzor

I have a 93 max SE, seems to be running great. Just have one question/concern.

When I stomp on it, sometimes when it goes to shift I swear my car sounds like it has a BOV for a turbo setup, as I hear a audible short hiss of escaping air pressure. I am not used to automatics (my first ever auto, all other cars Ive owned have been stick), and am wondering if this is normal for an automatic car, or specifically for the max.

Thanks,

Chalzor

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_2243.flv

that's what a normal automatic should sound like... it'll bark a WOT shift but shouldn't make noise otherwise. is your intake stock or hai/cai? my HAI makes a big old suction sound when i stomp it.

Chalzor

Completely stock for the moment, plan to go to a CAI when I have the time.

Chalzor

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

How well does the car run tho? Smooth and responsive or does it have issues? Checked vac hoses? Checked trans fluid?

Checked for very-well-hidden turbo?

Chalzor

Seems to run nice and smooth, idle's well, no lifter tick (like I had in the vg30de in my z32). For the most part power delivery is responsive, there is the odd time I notice the auto taking too long (in my opinion) to shift, but every auto Ive driven has that problem. Haven't checked the vacuum connections, but if it were a vacuum issue I'd expect it to either run rough, or erratically at idle, which I don't see at all. Tranny fluid I have not checked.
Ive looked, but havent seen any signs of one, havent had it up on a jack yet though to fully inspect the underside, but no obvious signs of custom work done that I can see with it on the ground.

Chalzor

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

haha, if it were turbo'd you'd know. There would be like... piping and crap in weird places. But perhaps if you can get a camera and mount it in the engine bay somewhere so you capture JUST what sounds occur in the engine bay? I did that with my car once (manual tho).. used one of the harnesses to hold my camera in place so it didn't fall out on the road behind me.

Chalzor

Maybe when I get my car-pc re-installed I will hook a mic up to it, and try and capture the sound while driving..... tack on one more thing to the ever growing list of things to do If I have time.

Chalzor

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Does it make the noise with the A/C (or defroster) turned off?

RivuxGamma

Thanks for all your help, guys. I really appreciate it. I did actually clean the cables and the battery terminals, but I didn't clean the end of the cable that's grounded to the engine.

I'll give it a try tonight.

HahitsKen

Will intakes such as..........http://www.advancedjdmparts.com/prod...roductid=16945
fit on a gxe, because i read that se and gxe's have different engines. What intakes would fit on a gxe?

djfaka

Horray more car problems

I had been having a little trouble starting my car. I'd get the click but wouldnt turn over. Well I cleaned the corrosion off of the battery, and I got a new starter a year ago, so I didnt think that'd be it. Well today, I go to start my car, and it it starts for a not even a sec, then turns off... i try to start again and it turns, but doesnt turn over. so starter is working. Well I try to jump it thinking its the battery, but its not, and I notice the fuel gauge which read about half full (how much gas I originally had in the car) is now WELL below E line (never seen it that low before)

Any Ideas, my guess is fuel pump?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

sounds like the fuel tank ground wire is disconnected/broken off. pull the rear seats/remove fuel pump cover plate/check the ground wire.

You can make another ground with a piece of wire going from one of the fuel tank screws over to the body of the car,(like one of the cover plate screws).

djfaka

Thanks Greeny

I did what you suggested, the ground looked just fine, I didnt touch it, move it or anything... I put the key in the ignition to see if I could hear the fuel pump better (since the seats were off) and I didnt hear it, I turn it to start and it starts.... I swear my max is sooo weird.

I think the gas gauge is off pretty bad because it was showing fuel just below E. I know I had more gas than that, but I went and got another 5 gallons just to err on the safe side now I have just under a half a tank.

Does anyone have any idea why that coulda happened? I'm guessing the fuel pressure was too low to start or something. I don't know much about this stuff other than what I read here and in the FSM.

Just for clarification heres a mini timeline
Saturday: Car works, Get gas
Sunday: Didn't drive
Monday: Didn't drive til 830pm, went to start car. nothing. posted on this thread.

It was raining pretty crazy, but my car is under a carport. so I'm not thinking thats it.
Hitting a wall because I'm not sure what to do preventatively to have this not happen so any suggestions are appreciated

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Just because the ground wire didn't actually look/appear broken at the pump housing doesn't mean it not broken/disconnected elsewhere.

I had the same issue with my fuel gauge and a hard starting issue for a long time, i finally figured out it was the fuel tank ground had a bad connection, but not at the fuel pump housing. I couldn't trace the ground short location, so i just installed a new tank to body ground like i explained in my first post. It fixed my fuel gauge problem and my car starts better now then it ever has in the 8 years i have owned it!

Chalzor

That I will have to check, being summer my AC has been on pretty much non-stop....

Chalzor

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

depends on the year.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Look at the product pic closer..you will see a mid-pipe for the VE30DE, so if the picture is the actual product, then no it will not fit the vg30e engine.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

well one thing often ignored is the fact that past the MAF both systems are identical. You could use the section that replaces the airbox on either motor.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Still not a true cai, the vg has that huge resonator molded into the S pipe to the throttle body. The whole point behind a cai intake is to straighten the airflow as much as possible, the less disruption, the more gain. (which is very minimal anyhoo )

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

no, it would still be as close to a CAI as it is not. CAI just means Cold Air Intake. the S-pipe does not make a CAI at all.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

shut up

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

If you want to go that route, the 1993 Honda Accord Intake Kit ALSO works very well on VE's. Because if you have a saw-zaw or even a hacksaw, just make a 90 degree bend out of the S-Pipe they give you and run that below the headlight and into the fender, then just use the other pipe that goes from the MAF to the headlight. Only problem is that you have to use your stock Mid-Pipe, but all you have to do is take the resonator off and plug the bottom hole with a PVC cap upside down and cram it in there so the top sits flush with the resonator walls. It's virtually invisible and is effective, though I still want to get a mid-pipe made out of aluminum, I guess I could make one.

Also, if you're trying to go cheap on the VG30E CAI and don't want to buy Pacesetter or Warpspeed or whoever makes them, the 1993 Accord Intake Kit + 90 degree bend is the best solution. The 92-94 Intake will require a LOT of cutting in on the wheel well and IMO looks worse.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

no sheit sherlock...tell it to the op

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

I was, I just quote whoever the hell to let them know I'm on topic

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

clarification:
year only matters for SE all gxe + 89-91SE are the same. 92-94SE is different

Chalzor

Did a quick check while driving around and turned the AC off, seems to be what it was as with it off I did not notice the short hiss of escaping air pressure that I mentioned.

Thanks For all your help,

Chalzor

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

as near as we were able to determine last time it came up, it is the A/C system bleeding off excess pressure when it builds up. typically it is while accelerating right around the time of the shift (highest RPM point). you can try to change your driving habits to have the car stay at lower RPM all the time, that should avoid the pressure build up.
I never did play with mine when it did it. I just let it be.

Chalzor

Now that I know what it is I am not to worried about it. I was mostly just checking if it was anything major, but it doesn't appear to be.

Chalzor

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i've never heard of this..... ever. is it just a one-in-a-thousand defect or what?

Headlines

I need some major help with my 92 Maxima, everytime I put in my Electron Bat fuse my door open, airbag, safety, battery, engine, oil lights stay on along with the door lights.

And even when I take it out and I'm driving, my door open light, and the door lights stay lit.

I replaced every single fuse, but nothing... =\? Any ideas? Help?

thanks!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you've got a short, now you have to find it and fix it.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Headlines

meaning it could be anywhere?

High Pockets

I found a 92SE with 55k miles on it. It seems legit since its from a Nissan dealer. What do you guys think? The carfax only has one reading and its from 2007 so it doesnt help. Also is there a problem with the VTCs in the 90 SE? I know there was with my old 92 SE. Any help is appreciated. If you can send me a private message so its easier for me to find.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

well if its that low of miles you shold jump on it. but you should check for paper work of the car. Theres no vtc in the 89-91 se and all the gxe. if the price is not too much you should make the move.

High Pockets

it looks super clean no wear on the inside, just normal cracking on leather seats. the engine looks good but im no mechanic...it looks possible that it has this low of miles..im going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow..theyr asking 4900..what you guys think of that price if its legit?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

even with low miles i'd never dream of paying that for any stock 3rd gen (even a Org-member maintained turbo'd modded 3rd gen won't get but maybe $5000)

think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something ), etc. You see what I mean?

Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.