*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
08-29-2008, 11:29 PM
#1761
even with low miles i'd never dream of paying that for any stock 3rd gen (even a Org-member maintained turbo'd modded 3rd gen won't get but maybe $5000)
think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something
), etc. You see what I mean?
Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.
think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something
), etc. You see what I mean?Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.
08-29-2008, 11:50 PM
#1762
So you found a 3rd gen at a Nissan dealer? Hmmm. Well dealers are not always honest when it comes to trying to make a used car seem more valuable than it really is. But a dealer will always change out the fluids and stuff for you if you demand that they do so (or perhaps already done as standard practice, along with detailing it). Dealers usually only resell immaculate cars, regardless of age. So if it testdrives good an all the fluids are nice and bright, and the mileage seems correct (as per the carfax) then I guess it's a good car.... I don't know about the price though. Considering that it hasn't been driven much then it might have $5000 of maintenance-free life in it, but then again you could have still had the bushings dry-rot and dealers won't replace that stuff unless the car drifts b/c of it and you complain "i won't buy it unless you fix the drifting problem"
08-30-2008, 06:05 AM
#1764
08-30-2008, 06:18 AM
#1765
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 19
I HAVE A 91 MAXI,IV ALREADY REPLACED THE INJECTORS ONCE WHEN I 1ST GOT IT,BUT ONLY 1 HAS WENT OUT THIS TIME,WHICH DOESNT MATTER SHOULD REPLACE ALL AT ONCE SENSE YOUR ALREADY IN THERE,ANYWAY DONT GET ON HERE MUCH, WORK TO MUCH.AND DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE CORRECT PLACE TO POST THIS BUT ,WTB SIX INJECTORS IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING...PLEASE...THX
08-30-2008, 06:25 AM
#1766
I HAVE A 91 MAXI,IV ALREADY REPLACED THE INJECTORS ONCE WHEN I 1ST GOT IT,BUT ONLY 1 HAS WENT OUT THIS TIME,WHICH DOESNT MATTER SHOULD REPLACE ALL AT ONCE SENSE YOUR ALREADY IN THERE,ANYWAY DONT GET ON HERE MUCH, WORK TO MUCH.AND DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE CORRECT PLACE TO POST THIS BUT ,WTB SIX INJECTORS IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING...PLEASE...THX
08-30-2008, 06:05 PM
#1768
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
94gxe injector/fuel pressure questions
Hey guys, noob here
I recently had 2 fuel injectors changed by my mechanic to help with rough running. I assume they put new fuel injectors in as my receipt doesnt say anything about rebuilt ones.
Anyway, the car runs smooth now most of the time. However, it will occasionally stall even while accelerating. When I try to start the car it will stall over and over for 10 minutes or so, then will start running fine again. I took it into the shop and they looked at it for upwards of a week. Finally they told me it was the fuel pump that was bad causing low fuel pressure. I had that changed and a new fuel filter put in.
Unfortunately after I got the car back the problem persisted. Strangely It only happens to me at night or in the morning, but it is erratic(live in houston summer temps 90+ during the day).
Any help would be really great as I am pretty sure my mechanics don't know what to do with it.
I recently had 2 fuel injectors changed by my mechanic to help with rough running. I assume they put new fuel injectors in as my receipt doesnt say anything about rebuilt ones.
Anyway, the car runs smooth now most of the time. However, it will occasionally stall even while accelerating. When I try to start the car it will stall over and over for 10 minutes or so, then will start running fine again. I took it into the shop and they looked at it for upwards of a week. Finally they told me it was the fuel pump that was bad causing low fuel pressure. I had that changed and a new fuel filter put in.
Unfortunately after I got the car back the problem persisted. Strangely It only happens to me at night or in the morning, but it is erratic(live in houston summer temps 90+ during the day).
Any help would be really great as I am pretty sure my mechanics don't know what to do with it.
08-31-2008, 04:06 PM
#1769
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Philly
Posts: 11
even with low miles i'd never dream of paying that for any stock 3rd gen (even a Org-member maintained turbo'd modded 3rd gen won't get but maybe $5000)
think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something), etc. You see what I mean?
Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.
think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something
), etc. You see what I mean?Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.
08-31-2008, 06:00 PM
#1770
if your budget is 10k USD, then you have alot of choices.
08-31-2008, 07:11 PM
#1771
09-01-2008, 07:58 PM
#1773
09-01-2008, 09:39 PM
#1774
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
If you want to go that route, the 1993 Honda Accord Intake Kit ALSO works very well on VE's. Because if you have a saw-zaw or even a hacksaw, just make a 90 degree bend out of the S-Pipe they give you and run that below the headlight and into the fender, then just use the other pipe that goes from the MAF to the headlight. Only problem is that you have to use your stock Mid-Pipe, but all you have to do is take the resonator off and plug the bottom hole with a PVC cap upside down and cram it in there so the top sits flush with the resonator walls. It's virtually invisible and is effective, though I still want to get a mid-pipe made out of aluminum, I guess I could make one.
Also, if you're trying to go cheap on the VG30E CAI and don't want to buy Pacesetter or Warpspeed or whoever makes them, the 1993 Accord Intake Kit + 90 degree bend is the best solution. The 92-94 Intake will require a LOT of cutting in on the wheel well and IMO looks worse.
Also, if you're trying to go cheap on the VG30E CAI and don't want to buy Pacesetter or Warpspeed or whoever makes them, the 1993 Accord Intake Kit + 90 degree bend is the best solution. The 92-94 Intake will require a LOT of cutting in on the wheel well and IMO looks worse.
09-01-2008, 10:06 PM
#1775
the pricce is a couple thousand too high u should be able to find a better deal then 5000 (i bought mine for 1500) but the VG is a very reliable engine the rest of the 10k could be enough to completely restore the car and add a few performance mods.
the main weakness with the VG is the timing belt make sure that was replaced recently
09-02-2008, 10:22 AM
#1776
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
new member, site is awsome, i have a question about an engine swap, would an after market 3.5 swap into a gen3 what about a 6sp from an altima, could anyother nissian/infinti engine swap into the gen 3 engine bay. a 3.7 or an vg30de thanks.
09-02-2008, 11:12 AM
#1777
3.5 swap was done by ONE person who bailed and never proved it worked. VGDE will never work cuz it's too big. 3.7 hasn't been tried yet and will be of equal difficulty to the VQ30/35 swap. Altima 6spd won't just bolt into onto any normal 3rd gen maxima engine.
09-03-2008, 07:53 AM
#1778
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
so i ran out of gas in my 91 maxima.
got some gas fot it. and it didnt start.
towed it home. changed fuel filter, spark plugs & wires.
still nothing. before this happened. it had been running a little rough.
like i had a bad injector. would this make it so my car wouldnt start at all?
any help is apprectiated. thanks.
got some gas fot it. and it didnt start.
towed it home. changed fuel filter, spark plugs & wires.
still nothing. before this happened. it had been running a little rough.
like i had a bad injector. would this make it so my car wouldnt start at all?
any help is apprectiated. thanks.
09-03-2008, 08:53 AM
#1779
so i ran out of gas in my 91 maxima.
got some gas fot it. and it didnt start.
towed it home. changed fuel filter, spark plugs & wires.
still nothing. before this happened. it had been running a little rough.
like i had a bad injector. would this make it so my car wouldnt start at all?
any help is apprectiated. thanks.
got some gas fot it. and it didnt start.
towed it home. changed fuel filter, spark plugs & wires.
still nothing. before this happened. it had been running a little rough.
like i had a bad injector. would this make it so my car wouldnt start at all?
any help is apprectiated. thanks.
09-03-2008, 08:53 AM
#1780
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
also what about the spec v qr25de, would that drivetrain swap into a gen three engine and transmission, do you know if the spec v has factory nav.
and so far to date your saying no attempt on the hr and vhr, but its possible.
09-03-2008, 09:16 AM
#1781
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
we took off the distributor cap and he said the crank isnt turning. said it would be a pain in the *** to fix. damnit man.
09-03-2008, 12:10 PM
#1782
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
hi guys brian here,
anyone know wheather the rb series in lines' with and w/o tc in would fit in the gen 3's as a options to the 3.5 and the vh's the 240's compartment cant be much tighter then the j30's right. i've seen a 240 swap.
anyone know wheather the rb series in lines' with and w/o tc in would fit in the gen 3's as a options to the 3.5 and the vh's the 240's compartment cant be much tighter then the j30's right. i've seen a 240 swap.
09-03-2008, 01:35 PM
#1783
it would cost you $20k to make a 3rd gen RWD... and the RB won't really fit anyways. Inlines are rather tall and long, and the VE was a special design to fit the low hoodline of the 3rd gen. Perhaps if you remove the hood it will fit, but you'll spend far less money and get far more HP working with the original engine.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-03-2008 at 02:34 PM. Reason: "hood" =/= "roof"
09-03-2008, 01:39 PM
#1784
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MO
Posts: 275
it would cost you $20k to make a 3rd gen RWD... and the RB won't really fit anyways. Inlines are rather tall and long, and the VE was a special design to fit the low hoodline of the 3rd gen. Perhaps if you remove the roof it will fit, but you'll spend far less money and get far more HP working with the original engine.
Well said on all accounts!
09-03-2008, 06:05 PM
#1785
09-04-2008, 09:49 AM
#1787
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
09-04-2008, 09:53 AM
#1788
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
it would cost you $20k to make a 3rd gen RWD... and the RB won't really fit anyways. Inlines are rather tall and long, and the VE was a special design to fit the low hoodline of the 3rd gen. Perhaps if you remove the hood it will fit, but you'll spend far less money and get far more HP working with the original engine.
what about bringing the j30 up to date with a qr25de would that engine be more fesible for todays standars rather then ponying up the highly unatainable 2k for the rwd swap, (guess a sixspeed ff swap is outta the question.) really want to stay away from a blower or SC at this point an work with the engine before i start to think about FI, ie octaine, air, cooling, spark, maybe a stroke. i dont even have a maxima at this point but i might consider one just doing so resarch at this point all relative imput is welcom.
by the way what year is your maxima looks awsome in your sig. what kinda numbers are you getting to the ground.
Last edited by BL Dozier; 09-04-2008 at 09:59 AM.
09-04-2008, 10:06 AM
#1789
what about bringing the j30 up to date with a qr25de would that engine be more fesible for todays standars rather then ponying up the highly unatainable 2k for the rwd swap, (guess a sixspeed ff swap is outta the question.)
by the way what year is your maxima looks awsome in your sig. what kinda numbers are you getting to the ground.
by the way what year is your maxima looks awsome in your sig. what kinda numbers are you getting to the ground.
anyways, if YOU want to front the cash for the R&D to get a 4banger to fit in a Maxima engine bay... go for it. Better off doing a VQ35 sway that way it's still a V6 (4banger in a maxima = altima =
).the only known engine swaps that have been seen rolling are the VG-to-VE (all 3rd gen maxima stuff), and the VQ30 swap. Pics/video surfaced of a 3.5 swap but we never saw it roll... just crank and idle. RB, VGDE(TT), and all else are just the typical overenthusiastic n00b fantasies that won't work without spending gross amounts of cash to end up with a result that can be more easily attained with better results for far less money.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-04-2008 at 10:20 AM. Reason: altima troof
09-05-2008, 09:47 AM
#1792
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
09-05-2008, 09:52 AM
#1793
09-05-2008, 10:42 AM
#1794
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Philly
Posts: 11
it looks super clean no wear on the inside, just normal cracking on leather seats. the engine looks good but im no mechanic...it looks possible that it has this low of miles..im going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow..theyr asking 4900..what you guys think of that price if its legit?
Also Ive heard people mention buyin 5th gen max rims for their 3rd gen. does anyone have a picture of this? If I do get this car I want a cheap option.
09-05-2008, 10:43 AM
#1795
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Philly
Posts: 11
I found a 92SE with 55k miles on it. It seems legit since its from a Nissan dealer. What do you guys think? The carfax only has one reading and its from 2007 so it doesnt help. Also is there a problem with the VTCs in the 90 SE? I know there was with my old 92 SE. Any help is appreciated.
09-05-2008, 10:46 AM
#1796
So they just dropped the price to 3900. Im going to check it out tomorrow and take it to my mechanic. I didnt have time to go before but it looks like that worked in my advantage. If I could get it down to 3500 that would be a pretty good price wouldnt you say?(assuming its in good mechanical condition)
in the middle (Maxitech)
09-05-2008, 12:36 PM
#1797
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
well it is intact in a way. lol. when i got to the bottom part all the teethes were gone. so it didnt snap. and i need a new tensioner. thinking i should replace everything while im down there. so relieved.
09-05-2008, 12:52 PM
#1798
I got my 3rd gen with 210k fro 3300
ran into a little problem, my battery light keeps coming on, I have no clue how old the battery is, looks fine, no corrosion on it at allll or anything, I'm gonna take it in and get the battery/alternator checked.
I recently(two weeks ago) installed a new deck and two 10" subs, with only a 300 watt amp so its is not sucking too much power. The amp is wired so that is is switched off when the car is off so that's not the reason the battery is low. And other than that i've changed my spark plugsrecently as well. (bought bosch platinum pre-gapped). car ran fine w/o any battery warnings for at least 3-4 days after installing the plugs, and ran fine after sound system. jw if i do end up getting a new battery/alternator what you would reccomend. or if you can think of any reason my battery would do this.
thanks
ran into a little problem, my battery light keeps coming on, I have no clue how old the battery is, looks fine, no corrosion on it at allll or anything, I'm gonna take it in and get the battery/alternator checked.
I recently(two weeks ago) installed a new deck and two 10" subs, with only a 300 watt amp so its is not sucking too much power. The amp is wired so that is is switched off when the car is off so that's not the reason the battery is low. And other than that i've changed my spark plugsrecently as well. (bought bosch platinum pre-gapped). car ran fine w/o any battery warnings for at least 3-4 days after installing the plugs, and ran fine after sound system. jw if i do end up getting a new battery/alternator what you would reccomend. or if you can think of any reason my battery would do this.
thanks
09-05-2008, 03:25 PM
#1799
I'm hazarding a guess that even once you replace the timing belt it will still have issues.
once the cams and crank are no longer turning in sync the pistons hit the valves and then you have bent valve and /or damaged pistons. at that point the most cost effective option is to put in a running motor that you put a timing belt on before installing it.
09-08-2008, 11:21 AM
#1800
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 21
Hello. I own a 93 GXE max and i'm having electrical problems. My cigarette ligter, radio, electronic entry keypad, and clock are all out. The seatbelt only retracts in ACC and the airbag light is on. I removed the lower steering wheel panel, checked the fuses, but found nothing wrong. Perhaps I'm not checking good enough. Any help is appreciated. thanks.