*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
08-28-2010, 04:18 PM
#5761
Help.... I ran my 94 se out of gas... couldn't start it back up.. popping and sounds like backfiring through the intake... until I stuck my hand in front of the MAF restricting the airflow and the engine began to race.. like normal almost.. I changed the fuel filter, plugs, and MAF still will not run, cant even get it started now... I got a knock sensor code from the ECU now its reading Normal operating conditions... any feed back would be great THANKS!
08-28-2010, 04:31 PM
#5762
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 3
That's what I was thinking.. but the pump still works somewhat.. It primes and sends enough fuel to run the engine. I thought that it was all or nothing with fuel pumps.. I guess I could check the fuel pressure (if I knew how).. It definitely shot fuel out when I took the filter off.. I primed the pump to clear the lines.. the fuel was pretty dirty.. the amount of fuel that came out was about id say 6 oz per 5 second prime.any good way to check the fuel pump? I also got the car running... runs great if my hand is in front of the maf slowing the air supply..has anyone seen this before?
Last edited by Uncivil; 08-28-2010 at 10:45 PM.
08-29-2010, 05:33 AM
#5763
That's what I was thinking.. but the pump still works somewhat.. It primes and sends enough fuel to run the engine. I thought that it was all or nothing with fuel pumps.. I guess I could check the fuel pressure (if I knew how).. It definitely shot fuel out when I took the filter off.. I primed the pump to clear the lines.. the fuel was pretty dirty.. the amount of fuel that came out was about id say 6 oz per 5 second prime.any good way to check the fuel pump? I also got the car running... runs great if my hand is in front of the maf slowing the air supply..has anyone seen this before?
08-30-2010, 12:56 AM
#5766
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
Will a 1990 manual trans fit a 1991 maxima?
Hey everyone. I have a 1991 SE, It needs a transmission. I found a 1990 maxima manual trans locally. will that fit my 1991 SE? I was thinking since I don't have limited slip it might be the same. thanks for any help.
Last edited by Hitchhiker; 08-30-2010 at 12:59 AM.
08-30-2010, 07:01 AM
#5767
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ap-sticky.html
08-30-2010, 02:52 PM
#5768
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
yes; need clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, slave cylinder....
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ap-sticky.html
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ap-sticky.html
08-31-2010, 05:21 AM
#5769
if you swap an 89-91 5-speed, it'll bolt right in.
08-31-2010, 09:49 AM
#5770
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Queretaro Mexico
Posts: 1
08-31-2010, 10:32 AM
#5771
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
Sorry my other post was a little vague....Thanks for the help, My trans is still kinda working. It is making a growling noise and sometimes gets stuck in 1st or 2nd gear. I think it's the input shaft bearing....It's totally my fault as I drive this thing Llike a bat out of hell....I really love this car and hope I can get a transmission for it. Thanks again!
08-31-2010, 06:57 PM
#5772
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
ECT sensor
ok just recently...2days ago i turn on the car and the temp meter is at the bottom....so im driving and it goes back to the middle as normal then goes back down....i give the car some gas it goes back to the middle once i let go it goes back down.....then it will go back to the middle stay their and go up down up down real fast and stay down then back up...but it never goes up to h either to the middle or the bottom...
checked at auto zone they told me i need to replace the ect sensor so did pepboyz.....i can buy the sensor for 20$ but auto zone is asking for 85 to replace and i been looking around and everybody says it is an easy job....
so could somebody tell me where the ect sensor is located on my 90 nissan maxima ....pictures would be greatly appreciated or just help finding it in general
checked at auto zone they told me i need to replace the ect sensor so did pepboyz.....i can buy the sensor for 20$ but auto zone is asking for 85 to replace and i been looking around and everybody says it is an easy job....
so could somebody tell me where the ect sensor is located on my 90 nissan maxima ....pictures would be greatly appreciated or just help finding it in general
08-31-2010, 07:47 PM
#5773
ok just recently...2days ago i turn on the car and the temp meter is at the bottom....so im driving and it goes back to the middle as normal then goes back down....i give the car some gas it goes back to the middle once i let go it goes back down.....then it will go back to the middle stay their and go up down up down real fast and stay down then back up...but it never goes up to h either to the middle or the bottom...
checked at auto zone they told me i need to replace the ect sensor so did pepboyz.....i can buy the sensor for 20$ but auto zone is asking for 85 to replace and i been looking around and everybody says it is an easy job....
so could somebody tell me where the ect sensor is located on my 90 nissan maxima ....pictures would be greatly appreciated or just help finding it in general
checked at auto zone they told me i need to replace the ect sensor so did pepboyz.....i can buy the sensor for 20$ but auto zone is asking for 85 to replace and i been looking around and everybody says it is an easy job....
so could somebody tell me where the ect sensor is located on my 90 nissan maxima ....pictures would be greatly appreciated or just help finding it in general
there are two temp sensors: one for the gauge in the dash, one for the ecu.
the gauge sensor is not even $20 at autozone, I think mine was $15.
sounds to me like teh guys at your autozone are idiots that cannot work the computer.
If you look at teh radiator, you will see the big hose coming off of it. follow it until you see the thermostat housing. the sensors are on that housing. takes 10 minutes to change it out (do it with teh engine cold, and throw an old rag to catch coolant as it comes out, unscrew the old one, quickly put the new one in place).
08-31-2010, 08:41 PM
#5774
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
sounds to me like the coolant system needs bleeding.
there are two temp sensors: one for the gauge in the dash, one for the ecu.
the gauge sensor is not even $20 at autozone, I think mine was $15.
sounds to me like teh guys at your autozone are idiots that cannot work the computer.
If you look at teh radiator, you will see the big hose coming off of it. follow it until you see the thermostat housing. the sensors are on that housing. takes 10 minutes to change it out (do it with teh engine cold, and throw an old rag to catch coolant as it comes out, unscrew the old one, quickly put the new one in place).
there are two temp sensors: one for the gauge in the dash, one for the ecu.
the gauge sensor is not even $20 at autozone, I think mine was $15.
sounds to me like teh guys at your autozone are idiots that cannot work the computer.
If you look at teh radiator, you will see the big hose coming off of it. follow it until you see the thermostat housing. the sensors are on that housing. takes 10 minutes to change it out (do it with teh engine cold, and throw an old rag to catch coolant as it comes out, unscrew the old one, quickly put the new one in place).
09-01-2010, 04:54 AM
#5775
09-01-2010, 04:27 PM
#5776
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Axle insertion
I am trying to insert two rebuilt axles into the transaxle of a 1992 Maxima. Chilton's need a special tool but I was told it isn't used generally. However I can't get either side to slide in. Is there something I don't know??
09-01-2010, 04:55 PM
#5777
...then push like ****, and i mean push...it helps to slam it in before you push, kinda in one motion..slampush......good luck..
09-02-2010, 04:44 PM
#5778
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
right; on top of the motor.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/8
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/8
this is a view from my eyes
09-02-2010, 07:07 PM
#5779
09-02-2010, 08:02 PM
#5780
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
09-03-2010, 04:48 AM
#5781
it'll be fine. just drive normally.
09-03-2010, 11:05 AM
#5782
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
ok new discovery when i was trying to unscrew the sensor i looked and seen that the wire for the dash gauge sensor looks like over time the wire has rusted and split off from the other end now im not a genius but im thinking maybe that was my problem the whole time now any idea on how much a repair that is
09-03-2010, 11:37 AM
#5783
ok new discovery when i was trying to unscrew the sensor i looked and seen that the wire for the dash gauge sensor looks like over time the wire has rusted and split off from the other end now im not a genius but im thinking maybe that was my problem the whole time now any idea on how much a repair that is
one-wire sensor, go grab a weather-proof 1/4" quick connect (regular would work, too, but you risk repeating)
this is the one I am talkng about, but any hardware store will have them:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Insulated.../dp/B00030CTHE
use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, despite the fact the connector is "weather proof"
the two wire, I cannot recall the connector off the top of my head, but a similar deal will be needed (in fact, iirc, you can use the same qc as above, but two...)
09-03-2010, 01:25 PM
#5784
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
the one-wire sensor, or two-wire sensor?
one-wire sensor, go grab a weather-proof 1/4" quick connect (regular would work, too, but you risk repeating)
this is the one I am talkng about, but any hardware store will have them:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Insulated.../dp/B00030CTHE
use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, despite the fact the connector is "weather proof"
the two wire, I cannot recall the connector off the top of my head, but a similar deal will be needed (in fact, iirc, you can use the same qc as above, but two...)
one-wire sensor, go grab a weather-proof 1/4" quick connect (regular would work, too, but you risk repeating)
this is the one I am talkng about, but any hardware store will have them:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Insulated.../dp/B00030CTHE
use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, despite the fact the connector is "weather proof"
the two wire, I cannot recall the connector off the top of my head, but a similar deal will be needed (in fact, iirc, you can use the same qc as above, but two...)
looks like before they were conected and the other end snapped off
looking at it again it looks more serious the wire is still connected to that square thing but thats not connected to anything any more so any more advice or just go out and get that connector?
Last edited by howichill; 09-03-2010 at 02:39 PM.
09-04-2010, 06:43 AM
#5786
sorry, no, it's a common mistake(vg30e and ve30de motors)
seriously, though.
ONE person. ONE. this is for a reason. the vq engine is a completely different animal, the motor mounts are totally in complete different spots.
09-04-2010, 06:47 AM
#5787
just to show you this is what im talking about and im guessing its a single wire
looks like before they were conected and the other end snapped off
looking at it again it looks more serious the wire is still connected to that square thing but thats not connected to anything any more so any more advice or just go out and get that connector?
looks like before they were conected and the other end snapped off
looking at it again it looks more serious the wire is still connected to that square thing but thats not connected to anything any more so any more advice or just go out and get that connector?
oh, the sensors at my autozone for less than $9 (called a temperature switch)
09-04-2010, 10:15 AM
#5788
also, VG30DE= Z32 engine, VG30E= Maxima, V6 200sx, Z31, etc
09-04-2010, 03:32 PM
#5789
09-06-2010, 02:10 PM
#5791
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
So what tranny is compatable, can I adapter plate it, I am making custom motor mounts anyway. That is what i'll do if i can adapt it. Oh It is a ve30de.
Automatic tranny for now, until it blows
Automatic tranny for now, until it blows
Last edited by xs-sxs; 09-06-2010 at 02:53 PM.
09-06-2010, 02:31 PM
#5792
09-06-2010, 04:16 PM
#5794
lol... good luck. many have said it, and one (well, none, since Aaron used a vq35) has actually done it.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ss-thread.html
09-08-2010, 12:16 PM
#5795
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tallahassee
Posts: 3
Whats up everyone? Say hello to the newest Maxima owner!
I just picked up a 91 SE and I'm in the process of fixing some of the things that have gone bad. Just today the sunroof decided to not close all the way when I try. the motor seems to turn fine as the glass slides almost completely closed, it just lacks that extra push at the end when it shifts upward to seal completely. Anybody have this experience before? It's doing it very consistantly, every time. seems like something is in the way but I havn't spotted it yet.
I just picked up a 91 SE and I'm in the process of fixing some of the things that have gone bad. Just today the sunroof decided to not close all the way when I try. the motor seems to turn fine as the glass slides almost completely closed, it just lacks that extra push at the end when it shifts upward to seal completely. Anybody have this experience before? It's doing it very consistantly, every time. seems like something is in the way but I havn't spotted it yet.
09-08-2010, 12:28 PM
#5796
Whats up everyone? Say hello to the newest Maxima owner!
I just picked up a 91 SE and I'm in the process of fixing some of the things that have gone bad. Just today the sunroof decided to not close all the way when I try. the motor seems to turn fine as the glass slides almost completely closed, it just lacks that extra push at the end when it shifts upward to seal completely. Anybody have this experience before? It's doing it very consistantly, every time. seems like something is in the way but I havn't spotted it yet.
I just picked up a 91 SE and I'm in the process of fixing some of the things that have gone bad. Just today the sunroof decided to not close all the way when I try. the motor seems to turn fine as the glass slides almost completely closed, it just lacks that extra push at the end when it shifts upward to seal completely. Anybody have this experience before? It's doing it very consistantly, every time. seems like something is in the way but I havn't spotted it yet.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...n-sunroof.html
a somewhat temporary fix may be to add some spacers to push it all the way up.
Welcome to the forums, and enjoy your new ride. (auto, or 5-speed, btw?)
09-08-2010, 12:44 PM
#5797
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tallahassee
Posts: 3
Alright thanks brother! The only thing is that I can't push the glass up to manually make it seal. It literally will not go up, even when pushed or helped. I'll have to go out and try some more things but I figured I'd go the easy way and try to get advise from someone who may have done it before. Sunroofs definitely are not my specialty.
My max is an auto (though I'd love a manual), single cam, white, black leather interior. I like it overall. Seems like a great car for it's age! It's gonna make a good daily for now while I finish building my 200sx se-r. I've done a lot to that car including swapping the sr20de for the bluebird det. I just finished a full rebuild on that engine along with upgrading to a gt2871r turbo, the car has been repainted the aztec red that it was originally. Also full suspension and exhaust. that car is almost ready to go.
My max is an auto (though I'd love a manual), single cam, white, black leather interior. I like it overall. Seems like a great car for it's age! It's gonna make a good daily for now while I finish building my 200sx se-r. I've done a lot to that car including swapping the sr20de for the bluebird det. I just finished a full rebuild on that engine along with upgrading to a gt2871r turbo, the car has been repainted the aztec red that it was originally. Also full suspension and exhaust. that car is almost ready to go.
09-08-2010, 04:28 PM
#5799
09-08-2010, 04:41 PM
#5800
head bolts and exhaust mnifold bolts
I bought a 91 maxima SE for $300 and it needs some work. I am no stranger to cars and the internals, but the Maxi is new to me. I went to my dealer and the prices they want for bolts ($9 for each of the head bolts and $8 for each of the manifold bolts)
, no friggin way! I am pulling the rear head due to the car being drivin with 4 of 6 bolts busted on the manifold and i want to check the valves. Where do you recommend I get them from that the price wont kill me and the what manifold bolts do you recommend? I was also told by the dealership that there are 2 types of head bolts, it depends on vin #. I don't need bolts for both heads as the front is just fine.
Thank you in advance!
Adam
, no friggin way! I am pulling the rear head due to the car being drivin with 4 of 6 bolts busted on the manifold and i want to check the valves. Where do you recommend I get them from that the price wont kill me and the what manifold bolts do you recommend? I was also told by the dealership that there are 2 types of head bolts, it depends on vin #. I don't need bolts for both heads as the front is just fine.Thank you in advance!
Adam