sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

well im sorry to hear about the timing belt snapping but thank god your stickin with the VG

get the turbo from garret injectors from greddy if your getting new head gaskets try solid copper ones i hear great things about them other than that its pretty much stock swap from the z car they made a great engine so there very lil room for improvement over stock

if your looking for transmission u really have only 2 options either get the fidanza flywheel exedy clutch and act pressure plate combo or if you wanna save some money go with a full setup from fidanza unfortunetly no one here has tested out the full fidanza setup so its kind of a mystery but it is cheaper

by the way going turbo on VG30 doesn't require an intercooler but id still get one u dont wanna another major disaster and yes u have to buy it brand new the z car used 7.8:1 compression and didnt have a stock one and ours uses 9:1 compression so be careful

MaxZap

umm since early on today my car makes a sqeak or squilling noise when i turn the wheel as if the tires are rubbing a belt. fluid is up and doesnt sound like the typical sound you would hear from turning the wheel with low power steering fluid. my question is... is it possible the tires could be rubbing the belt directly or pushing something to rub the belt? i have not looked under the car yet (going to tomorrow morning) just would like some sense of direction when i do look. like what belts (if this is the case) should i check? or am i totally wrong and its somethjing else?
in any case it sounds like a squilling belt (excuse spelling) when i turn the streering wheel quite some ways in either direction

YearOfTheGus

iTrader: (2)

Does it still make the squealing noise after you've stopped applying pressure to the steering wheel (letting the tire rest at an extreme angle without touching the steering wheel)? It could be the power steering pump if it doesn't. Doubt it's the belts, but you can clearly see them from the top of the engine if you want to check.

MaxZap

yes it will continue to squeal without pressure as long as i dont straighten the wheel out again (car sitting idle and all) if i turn the wheel to much its a sudden squeal. doesnt squeal the entire time while turning the wheel, just when it reaches a certain point.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sounds like a loose belt, or air in the system.

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

hey thanks for everythin
i got the fidanza flywheel already, but what exedy clutch should i get and are all the act pressure plates the same. what size injectors should i get, and where can i find the copper head gasket. can i use parts from the z like the head gasket and stuff r they the same

HELP ME lol

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

exedy stage 1 i dont think anything else will fit same with the act pp only one kind will fit i think the copper head gaskets i heard about from ipp they sell them but u should be able to find them pretty easy if u dont know injectors go talk to internetautomar he knows his **** hell fix u up right for real cheap

ive never done this project but im pretty sure everything will be a direct swap from the z car but there are a few direct writeups covering all the details i think the fastest turboed 3rd gen still up and running is 418hp so make sure u get the writeup thats similair to your project and your goals

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

thank u for all the imfo ill look it up and keep u posted thanks

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

thank u for all the imfo ill look it up and keep u posted thanks

Rayovac

After months of reading all the relevant posts on this bb, I screwed up the courage to try replacing the injectors in my 92VG. Things went smoothly with the install. Reconnected the battery, put the fuel pump fuse back in and when I went to start it up, it caught briefly and quit. I cranked it again, something went click, now there is no power at all. No interior lights, nothing. I can't even get the key out of the ignition.

This noob is stumped. Could I have blown a fusible link? If so, how would I track that down?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

grab an FSM and start looking for a short.

Rayovac

Duh.

Went back in to see if I could find a short and realized the positive battery clamp had somehow worked its way loose.

Typical, looking for the complicated problem before checking the obvious stuff.

This forum rocks.

maxima63

thanks for all your help guys, i have two bad injectors, i tore them out already, does anyone have good used injectors they want to sell? its a 92 maxima sohc

Rayovac

Which type of connectors do your injectors have? The bigger, square ones that have a metal retaining clip or the oval snap ons?

I have five good used ones of the first type that I just pulled out. Blue dots.

maxima63

i have the blue dot square with the pain in the a$$ retaining clips. how much do you want for two of them?

Garf

iTrader: (1)

Ok Car won't start b/c battery is dead or maybe the starter is now too?
Bought a new battery a week or two again, just got a brand new alternator installed last week and car worked fineeee. Go to start her up this morning like i always do and solenoids clicking, no go. if i try starting again instead of the clicking of the solenoids i get a really slow crank from the starter. ( interior lights dim every time it turns) So i'm thinking i have a power drain somewhere? or the starter has gone?
input please!!!!
(I don't have a multimeter) cuzz im dumb.

Garf

iTrader: (1)

tried again and smoke coming from behind battery. so im thinking the starter is hooped

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Remove the starter, take it to a local autozone/advanced auto parts, have them test it before you buy a new starter.

smetz

hey im new here n jus bought my buddies old 94 maxima. it had all blown factory speakers (non bose) but im having trouble with the front 4x6's i bought infinity reference 6412cfp speakers and they dont fit in the housing the car comes with. has anyone else had this problem and are there any replacement pieces that will hold them?
thanks in advance

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

if you can return them, and get some 5 1/4 or 6.5s, that would be
most people grab a sheet of plywood or mdf, make a mount for the location, and cut speaker holes in to fit.
you may try this method, anyway, since, if you don't like the speakers later (I dunno why, they are infinity(again, )), you can just enlarge the hole a little, and throw some 6.5s (or maybe some 8"? dunno, haven't tried)

Liquidnails

My 93 GXE has been acting up lately: My power steering works intermittently, and makes a groaning sound if I attempt a sharp turn at low speed, or turning the wheel while stopped.

Also My car seems to run hot. Before this week the temperature gauge would gradually climb to it's usual spot in the middle of the gauge. Lately it stays cold for longer than before, and then the temperature shoots right up to H, r just below it.
This morning it shot off the top radiator hose and made a mess of my engine bay.

What could the problem be?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

power steering fluid is prolly low.
sounds like the t-stat is sticking, and the engine is overheating. if you blew the hose off,

PBfrEAk

I need to get some bushings for my Maxima and I figure I might as well do them all.

I know its cheaper for just the control arm bushings (and easier) if I just buy the whole control arm because it comes WITH the bushings installed.

Now for all the other bushings...I know energy suspensions make's control arm bushings for are cars (I want the poly bushings) but do they sell a full kit? what all comes with the kit?

All I can find are certain bushings...not kits.

Can anyone help??

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...nt-maxima.html
that should get you taken care of. shows the product, and installation suggestions/instructions.

Obsession_92-94

Ever since I got a used manual transmission put in to my 93 Maxima SE, the instrument panel will lose its illumination from time to time when I have the headlights on. I have done lots of work behind the instrument panel three months ago for the HUD, but it never showed this symptom until the transmission replacement. It doesn't seem to be a complete power failure, because the instruments continue to work, they are just dark. I can usually fix this problem by one quick flicker of the lights and it does not usually repeat the problem for the rest of the drive. My question is, could my instrument panel be on its last leg or could it be something in the headlight switch itself? I don't recall exactly, but I think that there could have been a time when I lost the headlights as well, but I am not fully certain. The problem is not that persistent.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I dont think it is the cluster. It sounds to me like the swithch, or the tcu (timer control unit) if it happens again, don't "fix" it, pull over real quick, and see if your tails are out, too.

Obsession_92-94

A little update on the problem. I was driving the car this evening and I only had the problem come up a couple of times, but both times were quick flickers. The second time it happened, I noticed that I lost the lights to the rest of the console (stereo, buttons, clock, but it kept the time). Could this still be the switch or something else? I have not checked anything yet as I was waiting for the power to quit for a long enough time for me to stop and check the tail lights like you advised earlier.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you need to check your wires between your tcu, and the switch, I think.
I doubt the switch would act that way ( but a junk yard replacement to test with is cheap), so i kinda suspect a lose wire.
this was a straight manual-to-manual swap, right?

Obsession_92-94

Yes, it was a manual to manual swap. The problem happened again tonight. I was just about to pull over to the side of the road when I touched the switch for the signal and everything came back on. Where would I find those wires to the tcu? It could be a connection problem as I have done lots of testing to get the HUD to work right in the car. Maybe this is a problem that is finally showing up.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

I want to know what do i do with the hanger that comes with the set? i see that is for the cat but i dont know how to put it on or where,
the other thing is that im not too sure if i put on the cat right, i dont hear any leaks, but my dual tip stock muffler has a mild roar, is that normal?

blk91maxse

I decided to change my automatic to a manual. I own a 91 Maxima with the VG30 engine. I got a tranny for 95 bucks at the junkyard. While the tranny is going in new..I wanted to get some suggestions on a nice clutch/pressure plate and a short shifter kit. I will post pics of my car soon..just dirty have not drove it besides around the corner a few time in the last three years.

Obsession_92-94

By "the tranny going in new..." you mean that it is rebuilt? I would personally not take any chances there and get that done if you can. I got a 50,000 mile one for mine and it turned out to be worse than the one that I had before. Paid $450 for it. Talk about a shafting!

Steve-O

Hey guys, maxima n00b here. This site is awesome.

I just bought a 92 SE black on black leather for $400 from a local tote-the-note lot a couple of weeks ago. Interior was under a layer of crud but looked promising (I've cleaned worse).

It had some awful VTC clack and some smoke on a warm startup; the guy said it needed a new engine and that a tow truck could take it right over to the engine shop.

I gave him the cash and drove that bad boy home.

After reading the site for a week solid, I pulled the valve covers to find the rear VTC end cap exploded, but I had all the pieces in the timing cover, and the timing seems to be fine. Compression check shows the rear head is fine, but the front head has two low cylinders side by side (4 and 6 at 60 PSI, wet test made it 80PSI a piece, sounds like head gasket to me).

So anyway, I've got my head gasket kit on the way but I have 2 questions:

1. Does the VTC rebuild kit come with enough to do 2 VTC's or do I have to buy 2 kits?

2. Anyone got a link to some under-the-hood simplifications? My other car is a Z32TT that I rebuilt and along the way did an AIV delete, PRVR delete, EGR delete, TB water hose bypass, etc. Its the only way to keep a Z32 sane, there's just so many things to go wrong. I've got lots of cracked vac lines on my max and I'd like to simplify it as possible.

Thanks guys, great site!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

if the VTC cap blew, then you really do need to do an entire engine replacement. once the cap breaks there are pieces floating around the engine internals doing damage.

blk91maxse

Sorry....I did not mean to say new. I wanted to say I will be putting new clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder. However, I did not realize a manual tranny had to be rebuilt..so I learned something new. I will be asking the mechanic that very same question.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you don't HAVE to rebuild the manual tranny. if the bearings aren't grumbling and as long as it shifts satisfactorily into all gears then you can just fill it up with fluid and drive it. but if you have problems with shifting or noises... then you may need a partial or full rebuild

krb1945

A lot of these window, door key pad and horn problems are the relays. Some of the relays are under the hood and some near the steering column inside.

I gave my 92 to my daughter and she has just started having problems with raising/lowering windows, the door key pad, and the horn being intermittent. I use to clear the whole mess by tapping the horn buttons, both buttons, untill the horn blew correctly. Then all the probs seemed to disappear for a few days. I made sure to blow the horn at least once a week to keep it cleared up until I could get the relay and install it. Yeah, sounds wierd because all these things are on different relays but most are interconnected by wire and corrosion.

My question is has anyone found anything other than worn rocker switches, corrosion, or relays that might cause these intermittent problems?

Thank you, Ken

YearOfTheGus

iTrader: (2)

okay,
My engine is missing pretty bad.
Removing the ignition wire from Cylinder #4 doesn't seem to affect the engine at all.

Spark plug looks fine, just a bit white on the tip, but it brushed off easily.
It's an NGK copper, less than 6K miles old.

Checked the fuel injector, resistance is around 11.3ohms with a cold engine. Around 154K miles old.

Ignition wires (NGK) are less than 6K miles old also, and I can hear the spark arching off of the intake manifold, so I'm assuming it's still good.

Cap and rotor are probably less than 3K miles old.

The miss is a lot more noticeable in gear, or when accelerating. This happened a few weeks ago, but only for around 15 minutes. Figured it was causing the miss when my car was wet, but that turned out to be the MAF.
It does feel like the injector, had one go out around a month or two ago. I just don't know any other easy way to check it other than ohming it out.

Any ideas on what it could be?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

if you checked the injector thru the harness, double check make sure it was the right injector.
then check the injector terminal for corrosion.

Obsession_92-94

A little more of the update on the problem! I managed to get out of the car when the instrument panel went out and noticed that tail lights were out as well. Is this the TCU like you said before? If so, where can I get my hands on that?