Awesome, thanks guys. Greeny, your pm didn't come through for some reason, would you mind trying again? Thanks!

 

I think he is PMing someone who is knowledgeable with third gen's that lives in your area.

 

Ya.

 

d'oh, I realized right after I posted.

 

ya i saw that at work cuz i work at nissan but i was wondering if its a diff part number cuz its stronger or suttin how could i find out if they would work so i dont gotta order them all and they dont fit

 

this will work, but will take forever. if you have an impact screwdriver, it'll save you time and effort. alternatively, you can try to tighten the screws first. this will break the glue/loctite/whatever nissan used on them as a theft deterrent. then you can loosen them easily.

 

I dunno dude I guess you will have to take your maxima vg bolts to the dealer, then see if they match up length/width wise to the z31 bolts they have in stock, if they even have them in stock.

 

I didn't recommend the impact driver because:
a. most people don't own one
b. last time one was used on my radio, the radio was destroyed in the process.

using the method I described isn't hard at all.

 

well the good thing is i work at the dealer but we do not have any in stock so ill jus have 2 special order one lolbut thanks for the help dude ill keep u guys updated on my project

 

No need to spend 20 bones.

I ran into the exact same thing about a month ago when i installed a new deck+subs. First make sure the new deck you bought came w/ a new set of four screws for the mounting bracket(if it didn't i'm sure you could make a stop at a local hardware shop and get some or go back to the car audio shop). Really easy, just grab a hand electric drill and a bit that is the same width of the shaft of the screw in the bracket(can't remember what size exactly) just drill in the center of the head of the screw that's stuck in the bracket until the head pops off( don't worry you won't damage the bracket). voila bracket off and undamaged, screw it on to your cup holder and wire it up.

 

that's true. i, myself, used the hammer and screwdriver method the first time too. then, i learned about the tightening trick and cursed about how much time i wasted.

 

i was just wondering if i was asking too much for my maxima. its a 92 se 5 speed with a brand new borg warner brute power clutch, 2 new axles, new brakes and rotors all 4 wheels, phantasm exhaust, jvc cd player, 12 inch subs and 600 watt amp, good tires, pw,pl, cruise, a/c, no rust, looks pretty good, runs excellent despite having 224, 000 miles...just needs lower control arms....asking $1600 obo....what does everyone think?

 

if i was near nc, it'd be sold already

 

you might be able to get a little more than that.... if the VTCs aren't very noisy i know there's a lot of people on the org that would love to have a VE5 without any rust...

 

go pick it up for john...

 

.......... you are crazy... right? If I get my hands on a VE5 i sure as hail ain't selling it!

 

qft!
I'd pull parts off my vg, if needed to get a good running ve5!!!
can't find one in my area for a decent price!

 

you can't afford it though.

 

..... so? john's already got 2 cars... i only have 1 that runs now.... i can take another. tho i'd leave it stock for a while to get my VG in better shape...

 

Could I get in on this clean VE deal? lol

 

IIRC, he said he would dump one once he gets a VE5.
I figure if Ifind him a VE5 I'll sucker him into selling me his rust VG for $500

 

haha would you actually drive his GXE if you bought it? I thought you hated VGs cuz they were belted... or do you know he's done his timing belt recently?

 

Hey guys. I just replaced all 6 of my injectors. Car runs sweet now, but I've been having problems starting. When I was only running on 5 cylinders, the car would start with no problems, it was turn-key for maybe a second and it fired. Now it takes about 4-6 seconds of holding the key for the car to turn over. Any ideas?

 

Go back over your work area very carefully, make sure you haven't left anything unplugged, or look for broken vacuum lines, including the iacv hoses. comb the area over really good, you would be surprised the things you overlook during the initial job.

 

his I KNOW the belt was done. so I don't have to worry about it for a few years rather than some people who never did theirs and refuse to (girl had 120k+ on the original belt)

 

Based on my experience, one of your injectors is leaking fuel into the cylinder, so its flooded/rich when you start. I had the same issue, and it also developed soon after I replaced an injector. It turned out to be a bad o-ring.

Try this, after the engine has been running, turn it off and remove the spark plugs. If I'm right, you'll hear the fuel hissing into one of the cylinders.

 

ok guys i need some help on this mysterious fluid leak on the back of my car. on a VG. it seems to be brake fluid to me. the oil does not drip next to the rear passenger wheel but rather about 10 inches inwards from the wheel. i have read posts abut the cylinder (or what ever is on the back on the drum brakes.) going bad but if its leakin out of that wouldnt it be more near the wheel? and also, there is NO loss of brake fluid whats so ever, im checking that every day. anyone had this issue?

-vince

 

Craw under the car while it's on jackstands and check your fuel and brake lines for leaks.

 

lol show them pictures of VEvolution's old VG... they'll change it

issue with john's VG is the strut tower. it's literally separated from the frame... the car sits lower on the left side. How would you go about fixing that? you know if you bought it to drive, you'd need to have that taken care of cuz it's just plain unsafe.

and by years i assume you mean years until you buy it. cuz we all know you wouldn't keep a car for years.... how's your Formula coming?

 

well... it'll only go into that cylinder if its intake valve is open. otherwise it'll pool on the backside of the valve until that valve does open... but you may be able to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and notice low fuel pressure...

 

I think he got or is getting the tower fixed.

The formula has been gone for a few months now. I had no place for it once we lost the shop so i sold it for a loss I wish I had kept it, there was SO much potential there. I'll probably pick up something else in the future, or maybe finally build my own. either that or just lease something and fug it all

 

I have 2 questions...my 89 has 310k on engine and 107k on replaced tranny...just recently ive had a problem with erratic idle...between 1000 and 500rpm...car has power whenever its running at 1000rpms but as soon as it drops below that...acceleration is horrible and sometimes even dies out? wut could be the problem? also ive had a surging problem with the car while im driving it...like its not gettin enough fuel flow...fuel pump works...replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor button, injectors are the only thing i havent checked yet but due to financial burden at the moment, really cant afford to pay for new ones... any ideas?? i went through the already posted forums on the injectors and printed out the tutorial...still at a loss...please help?

 

Thats alot of info, i'd probably look at all your vacum lines and electrical connections. Did you have check engine light come on?


on a side note....
http://www.fuelinjectorsoutlet.com/p...roducts_id=940
seems kinda scetchy any ideas ?

 

they are remans.

 

do i need to compress the springs on the stock suspensions to remove the springs?
i want to keep the stock height and change out the struts
thank you

 

o yea. just ask greeny's nose what happens if you don't. if you don't compress the spring (or if the compressor breaks) the force can kill you if the spring launches at you.

 

so can i remove the whole assembly as in the dtrut and springs off the car first then compress the spring, or do i compress the springs first then remove it from the car?

 

remove the whole assembly and then compress it once you have it off

 

I have now had my 09 Maxima for about 2 months, great car and very good all around. Lately I purchased a new Nano iPod and connected it with the Nissan Supplied cable, apparently the new version of the iPod is not supported by Nissan and therefore the iPod will not recharge while connected. Has anyone found a different cable that will charge the iPod? worse comes to worse I suppose I can go back to the old iPod but would rather not.

Thank you for your help
Erick
new member

 

post this in the 7 gen section, oh wait there is no newbies thread for the seven gen
I put this on the 7 gen forum. under Ipod 4thgen Nano questions