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Old 01-04-2007, 07:27 PM
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its probably about time to do a good work over on it.
clean tb, iacv
new fuel filter, plugs
maybe run some injector cleaner and/or seafoam it
and whatever else is in the 120mi tune up list
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JPMax
try turning the wheels all the way to one side and taking a look at what's there now. stock struts and springs are black.
OK, So the car has definitely not been lowered before. Can it still be raised? I need about an inch or two additional clearance for the undercarriage.
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:39 PM
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Raising not lowering!!!

Originally Posted by JPMax
try turning the wheels all the way to one side and taking a look at what's there now. stock struts and springs are black.
OK, So the car has definitely not been lowered before. Can it still be raised? I need about an inch or two additional clearance for the undercarriage.
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by azarc
OK, So the car has definitely not been lowered before. Can it still be raised? I need about an inch or two additional clearance for the undercarriage.
Raised? I'm not sure how you would do that. Don't think anyone here has tried that.
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:06 PM
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95 max not start

only one beat of metal click sound is heard when turning the key
motor won't turn
tried jump start, no good

will the OBDII give out right code, (it's raining, will check the code tomorrow)
but anyone has the same experience?
thanks
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Old 01-05-2007, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MMM
only one beat of metal click sound is heard when turning the key
motor won't turn
tried jump start, no good

will the OBDII give out right code, (it's raining, will check the code tomorrow)
but anyone has the same experience?
thanks
Sounds like the starter. Take it (starter) to AutoZone and have them check it for free.
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Old 01-05-2007, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MMM
only one beat of metal click sound is heard when turning the key
motor won't turn
tried jump start, no good

will the OBDII give out right code, (it's raining, will check the code tomorrow)
but anyone has the same experience?
thanks
get a friedn to help you. put a long pole on the starter and bang it hard with a hammer while the friend turns the key. will only work for a few times and should only be done if you find yourself stranded somewhere.
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Old 01-05-2007, 10:18 AM
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remote start

I need help with my remote start install. Please help. I need to know about the wire connections. Not all of the wires. Just a few.
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Old 01-05-2007, 10:23 AM
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To: MMM

Originally Posted by 2da mizzax
get a friedn to help you. put a long pole on the starter and bang it hard with a hammer while the friend turns the key. will only work for a few times and should only be done if you find yourself stranded somewhere.
That might work as well (has for me) if you get stranded, but in order to eliminate the actual cause, do what I stated.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Sounds like the starter. Take it (starter) to AutoZone and have them check it for free.
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Old 01-05-2007, 10:40 AM
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Timing question, on a '95.

What is the timing suppose to be? 10* BTDC?
I used a SnapOn analyzer yeaterday and noticed that the timing variance was off the wall. It would jump 10* at idle and as much as 40* BTDC above 2000 rpms.
Does anybody happen to know what the timing specifications are?
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Old 01-05-2007, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
To: MMM

That might work as well (has for me) if you get stranded, but in order to eliminate the actual cause, do what I stated.

Thanks,
is the electric hub of starter solenoid easy to access?
I try to measure its voltage before taking things apart.
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:04 PM
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Pull the big plastic intake snorkel and the starter should be right there in reach on the tranny.
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:57 PM
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It's only two bolts to take off the starter, then unplug the connectors
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Old 01-05-2007, 05:43 PM
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ok so a buddy of mine got me some 9004/HB1 bulbs the other day and was about to install them when i noticed the wattage rating is 60/55....i know the stockers take 65/45 so do these pose a significant threat as far as melting goes? ive read threads that the 100/80 have melted the harness but can 10 extra watts do the same? thanks.
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JPMax
Raised? I'm not sure how you would do that. Don't think anyone here has tried that.
Well, I'm not even sure that would work. Again, I have a steep driveway and a berm at the top. I can't get the car in the drivway without severly scraping the undercariage. I have the same problem going into most parking garages in the City (NY). I'm not sure what other alternatives I have other than trying to raise it (rather than lowering it most have). I'm extrmely open to any suggestions. Somebody has to be having the same problem??? And no, the car hasn't been lowered previously. It seems to be right where it should be.
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Old 01-06-2007, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by maximomar
ok so a buddy of mine got me some 9004/HB1 bulbs the other day and was about to install them when i noticed the wattage rating is 60/55....i know the stockers take 65/45 so do these pose a significant threat as far as melting goes? ive read threads that the 100/80 have melted the harness but can 10 extra watts do the same? thanks.
Nowhere near the same risk, but yes there is some risk that you wouldn't have with a stock bulb.

I'm not sure if the low beam circuit uses separate wires as the high beam, but I suspect it does. If so, then the high beam circuit will be carrying 8% less current, but the low beam will be carrying 20% more current. I doubt it would cause a problem, but still it's an increase.

Dave
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:43 AM
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Hey guys... I have a 98 Maxima with trashed trunk lid. I have found one in my area from a 96 Max...

I know the lights are set up different, but will this trunk lid bolt right up to my 98 with no mods required? Or if there will be mods required, what am I looking at? TIA
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TWSTD11
Hey guys... I have a 98 Maxima with trashed trunk lid. I have found one in my area from a 96 Max...

I know the lights are set up different, but will this trunk lid bolt right up to my 98 with no mods required? Or if there will be mods required, what am I looking at? TIA
it will fit, once you have 95/96 tail lights they will fit and will work. It would look better if you got a 97+ Lid so you can keep your tail lights, and most would agree it looks better.

If you really dont care for the looks and just want a trunk lid, and be done. The 96 Lid and tails will work.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:15 PM
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i would love to find one for a 97+, but this deal is pretty unbeatable... now i would have to find the tails from a 96 as well.

what exactly is the difference in the way the lights are set up? if everything bolts right in, they must have the same housing. so do the lights in the quarter panels differ in the two years? Otherwise, I'm not following as to why I would need to replace the tails as well.

Thanks for the info too. Also, just as a note, the lights in the 98's bumper are not wrecked.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:33 PM
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the inner lights on a 95/96 are shorter in width. the 97+ inner tails are wider in width. so your current tails would be too big to fit into the 96. If you had some cutting and welding tools, certain you could make it fit, but short of that, the easier method would be to get the 96 inner tail lights. The outters never changed from 95-99.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:36 PM
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last question on this subject, i promise. I just want to be clear here...

the outer lights on my 98 are the SAME as the ones on the 95-96 max. So, if this new trunk lid I am looking into, comes with the inner lights attached, i can just bolt up and go. no probs?
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:37 PM
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with out spoiler:
1997
Lid/Gate
Nissan Maxima w/o spo- 2 DINGS WHITE 5-014 $150 Brunswick Auto Recycling, LLC USA-ME(Brunswick) Request_Quote 1-800-277-4199 Request_Insurance_Quote

with spoiler:

1997
Lid/Gate
Nissan Maxima GOLD, W-SPOILER 166 INV 000 A
0 5H-272 $100
actual Cumberland Salvage USA-ME(Cumberland) E-mail 1-800-479-5020 20


found those on car-part, in your state
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for the info... I have an eye on the one from Cumberland Salvage. The 96 lid I am looking at is from a private seller in Mass, in the color I am looking for as well. Or a lot closer than Gold ) Thank you for the info though!
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:49 PM
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no prob.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Nowhere near the same risk, but yes there is some risk that you wouldn't have with a stock bulb.

I'm not sure if the low beam circuit uses separate wires as the high beam, but I suspect it does. If so, then the high beam circuit will be carrying 8% less current, but the low beam will be carrying 20% more current. I doubt it would cause a problem, but still it's an increase.

Dave
ah ok thanks, ill put them on and just monitor them from time to time.......i figured they would have seperate wires too........just wanted to make sure cuz they were the sylvania blues
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Old 01-06-2007, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TWSTD11
last question on this subject, i promise. I just want to be clear here...

the outer lights on my 98 are the SAME as the ones on the 95-96 max. So, if this new trunk lid I am looking into, comes with the inner lights attached, i can just bolt up and go. no probs?

The outers are physically shaped the same, but the color sequence is different, if you use the 95-96 inners with 97-99 outers it will look really odd.
95-96

97-99
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:10 PM
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hi, im planning on buying a 1997 nissan maxima GLE and when i turned it on yesterday, i heard a hissing sound near the front passenger air vent. I went back to the dealer today when it was bright out to look under the hood etc. and take a test drive. I turned the car on and didn't hear anything. the car ran smooth. the only problem would be a few dents but thats ok since it's going to be a commuter car for me. so. is there something wrong if it makes the hiss sound? also, i noticed the front 2 speakers dont work on the passenger side. the rear one does. i tried the balance to see but nothing from those 2 speakers. the dealer agreed to fix it for us but does anybody know what the problem could be? when i start the car, i'll hear static then it'll go away. another thing, how much is it to get new keys/remote? and where can i get them?

thank for you help!
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:31 PM
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how can I tell if i have ABS?
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Olezhka
how can I tell if i have ABS?
An ABS light in the instrument cluster should come on when you start the car or put the key in the on position.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:49 PM
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k thanks a lot.
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:06 PM
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My clutch is starting to slip (the RPMs jump unusually high when I accelerate, then the engine "catches" and the RPMs drop to where they should be, this happens when I'm driving anywhere from 10mph to 75mph) when I accelerate, and a greasy mechanic gave it a quick 60 sec inspect and confirmed that my cluch is bad and needs to be replaced. I know a little under the hood but replacing a clutch is beyond me.

I think the labor is going to be a lot because they have to pull out the transmission. If they're going to pull the guts of my car out I figure I might as well upgrade some parts while they're in there since I have the cash on hand. The car is approaching 180k miles. What performance clutches/flywheels are available for a '97 Maxima SE? Where can I buy them online? What other parts should I have checked/replaced/upgraded while the mechanic is in there?
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:40 PM
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For an OEM clutch replacement look into a Exedy/Dayco. It will grab really well and you will be happy with it.
make sure you have the flywheel resurfaced and also check the rear main seal. You should repolace it even if its not leaking just as a sign of good measure. It will give you a good estimate of how long it should last considering it was done when the clutch was done.
Many Org members have been reall hapy with the 01 clutch so thats also a canidate.
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by aatorres83
My clutch is starting to slip (the RPMs jump unusually high when I accelerate, then the engine "catches" and the RPMs drop to where they should be, this happens when I'm driving anywhere from 10mph to 75mph) when I accelerate, and a greasy mechanic gave it a quick 60 sec inspect and confirmed that my cluch is bad and needs to be replaced. I know a little under the hood but replacing a clutch is beyond me.

I think the labor is going to be a lot because they have to pull out the transmission. If they're going to pull the guts of my car out I figure I might as well upgrade some parts while they're in there since I have the cash on hand. The car is approaching 180k miles. What performance clutches/flywheels are available for a '97 Maxima SE? Where can I buy them online? What other parts should I have checked/replaced/upgraded while the mechanic is in there?
Originally Posted by Flava_24/7
For an OEM clutch replacement look into a Exedy/Dayco. It will grab really well and you will be happy with it.
make sure you have the flywheel resurfaced and also check the rear main seal. You should repolace it even if its not leaking just as a sign of good measure. It will give you a good estimate of how long it should last considering it was done when the clutch was done. When changing your clutch replace all, clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw out bearing, re-grease Throw out bearing and fork. Many Org members have been reall hapy with the 01 clutch so thats also a canidate.
Thanks! I'll def do all that. Do you know the price difference between 5th Gen clutch and Exedy? Where can I get a 5th Gen clutch other than Nissan dealership? Ebay motors? If I buy a new clutch kit, will it come with a pressure plate or do I need to purchase that seperate? What about performance flywheels? Everybody keeps throwing out Fidanza, is that where it's at then?
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Old 01-07-2007, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by aatorres83
What other parts should I have checked/replaced/upgraded while the mechanic is in there?
Have the tranny opened for an inspection by a real transmission repair shop.

It's about half an hour of labor, but if the tranny bearings are wearing out, this is the ideal way to learn about it.

Dave
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Old 01-07-2007, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JPhaSE
hi, im planning on buying a 1997 nissan maxima GLE and when i turned it on yesterday, i heard a hissing sound near the front passenger air vent. I went back to the dealer today when it was bright out to look under the hood etc. and take a test drive. I turned the car on and didn't hear anything. the car ran smooth. the only problem would be a few dents but thats ok since it's going to be a commuter car for me. so. is there something wrong if it makes the hiss sound? also, i noticed the front 2 speakers dont work on the passenger side. the rear one does. i tried the balance to see but nothing from those 2 speakers. the dealer agreed to fix it for us but does anybody know what the problem could be? when i start the car, i'll hear static then it'll go away. another thing, how much is it to get new keys/remote? and where can i get them?

thank for you help!
Can't tell you about the hissing but the static is probably there untill the antenna gets fully up. Also make sure the fade is in the middle as that controls the front/rear. Remotes can be had on Ebay for about $25.
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Old 01-07-2007, 10:41 AM
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I have a 95 Max, started recently running louder than usual and not accelerating as it should. After a few weeks of changing sparkplugs, etc... it was suggested my timing chain was off a bit. Can anyone suggest the easiest way to confirm this and if it is, the best way to fix it... Really appreciate all input!!
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by oilchange
I have a 95 Max, started recently running louder than usual and not accelerating as it should. After a few weeks of changing sparkplugs, etc... it was suggested my timing chain was off a bit. Can anyone suggest the easiest way to confirm this and if it is, the best way to fix it... Really appreciate all input!!
To confirm this you should use a timing light.
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:17 AM
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Ok, thanks for that info. Will look into that right away.
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by nismology
To confirm this you should use a timing light.

Thanks for that suggestiong, appreciate it. I'm not familiar with a timing ligt, what exactly should I be looking for if it is indeed off?
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by oilchange
Thanks for that suggestiong, appreciate it. I'm not familiar with a timing ligt, what exactly should I be looking for if it is indeed off?
There are 3 notches machined onto the crank pulley. The first notch (farthest to the left) indicates that the number 1 piston is at top dead center, the second (the one you are looking for) indicates the number 1 piston is at 15 degrees before top dead center, and the third one indicates 20 degrees before top dead center (you won't need this one unless you're changing your water pump). When you attach a timing light to the loop on the engine harness with the car running, it will will shine a light at the exact moment that the ECU is sending the signal to fire off the ignition coil for the number 1 cylinder. What does this mean to you? The specification for idle ignition timing is 15* +/- 2*. When the timing chain is in proper alignment the light should shine precisely when the arrow on the timing cover is aligned with the middle (15*) notch on the crank pulley. Ideally, you notch will appear like it's not moving and will always be directly under of VERY close to the arrow. If the chain is off, the ignition timing will be off relative to the crankshaft so it will appear misaligned. Hope this makes sense.
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