oilchange

Thanks a whole lot, very helpfull information indeed. I'll get on this right away...

aatorres83

where's the best place to shop for maxima parts? I can't get to CustomMaxima.com and I need a Fidanza Flywheel, and a '01 Maxima Clutch

cpt

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if he has what you need, but gave me a Maxima.org deal, very friendly and fast shipping.performancepeddler.com

JPhaSE

i played around with the fade and balance controls. when i put the fade to the right, nothing comes out except for the left rear speaker. when i put it to the left, the front left comes on. i always though by moving the fade to the right would make the right speakers work and moving it to the left would make the left speakers work. it seems to be messed up. also, how can i check the brakes? is it true i can check them by looking at the brake fluid level under the hood?

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

For stock parts you can try here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...49&catalogid=0

MMM

replace a fault starter this weekend, but problem still exists.
1. not able to start the engine without applying gas pedal
2. idle speed is low (400~500 rpm) and unstable

no clear clue reading Haynes,
any suggestions, Thanks!

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

Fuel pump or fuel injectors are bad or really dirty. Add some feul injector cleaner and drive around for a day or so and see if it gets better. Most likely an injector problemo.

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

You will need to check the brake pads, calipers, rotors ect ect. You can check to see if there is a little air on the top of the resevoir but no you need to get dirty to check the brakes.

JPhaSE

how do i know if there are airbags in the passenger and driver?

i know the car comes with it but is there a way to check to see that the airbags are there?

Night_Warrior

Recently I installed headers on my 95 Maxima. Since the installation there have been two problems:

1) The car takes a bit longer to start. It usually needs a little gas to get going. Upon the first 10 - 20 seconds of starting the RPM's bounce between 300 and 2000, after that, its fine and runs smooth.

2) I know the idea of headers is higher RPM performance, but I am pretty sure that I am not suppose to loose any power from my initial take-off. Before the headers, the car would spin its wheels with no problem, but now it can barely spin them when turning. The Maxima simply doesn't have the snap it used to.

I want to say it has something to do with the computer wanting to adjust for the new ratio perhaps or I may need new/larger injectors. That is where I stand as of now. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

^^^You do not need new injectors.

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. Either exhaust leak or air (unmetered air).

What kind of headers are they?

cbjja428

So the other day i was at a stop waiting to turn while sitting there I started to turn my steering wheel just the the engine rev ed up 300rpm. This has never happened before now it does it constantly if I turn my wheel. Whats going on?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

thats natural. you'll only see this happen when your at a stop. the engine will rev a little to give the power steering pump a little more power so it can turn the wheels. Engine revs the power steering belt goes around faster, more power for the pump, wheels turn easier.

Stufis

MECHANIC question-Los Angeles...

Let's see if I am using this thread correctly...since I can't post yet, and ain't got time to read all 600+ posts in this thread...I presume this thread is a convenience so noobies can ask Qs here?

OK, I need a great mechanic-West LA for a '98 Max with 140k miles. Tired of Santa Monica Nissan's prices and can't identify a decent indie in the area.

Thanks in advance...

Hope I did this right...8^)

I don't have thread posting priveleges yet... Anyway, I did just troll thought the gazillions of pages in the West forum and was able to link onto an exiting thread.

Thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Putting down the throttle pedal means you're signalling to the computer that you want no fuel sent to the engine. This means no extra fuel is injected during cranking. This suggests something is either dumping too much fuel into the engine, or another problem like the engine coolant temp sensor.

Wildly bouncing rpms suggest a sensor problem, possible the TPS. Double check all the grounds and sensor connections and make sure they are nice and clean. Anything you were near or touched during the header job.

Dave

iDuty

Anyone suggest cleaning the IACV? Instructions in the stickies.

The computer uses the IACV to allow air into the engine when the throttle is closed. Thus my guess due to your low idle and failure to start without opening the throttle.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I think your MAF is not plugged in correctly.

rahulkatti

ok...manual says that brake + battery lights on = problem with alternator....but went to advanced auto parts and got the battery and alternator checked and everything is a ok.....my two guesses are that something is not connected properly as the lights flash randomly sometimes....or there is blow fuse...can someone please help me.....thanks in advance...

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I didn't feel like making a new post just for a small question. KS wire should have a black and white wire going into the ks itself right? Making sure before I buy a new wire.

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

you mean the K.S plug right? If so then IIRC it is a black and white wire going into the plug.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok thanks. I need a new one. Just figured out why my ks code and mileage have sucked so bad. Black wire popped out of the plug to the ks. Thanks

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Nvm. Got a new harness today and its the same as mine. Just hope that the wire is the cause of the problem. If not, then I have a serious gas problem lol

ForeverMAX

was there like a special edition GLE bc i have a 96 GLE w/ the honeycomb rims and theyre chrome,

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Hmmm... as far as ive known chrome honeycombs were never an option why would they be?
Chrome SE 5stars maybbe...... off 2ddrnkste

TWSTD11

Recently I installed a new (used, off a 96 Max) trunk lid on my 98 Max. I was test fitting it trying to get everything lined up right, shut the trunk, and now it won't open with the trunk popper. I can hear the popper working, and see it moving through the armrest hole in the back seat. But it isn't opening up the trunk. I also tried using the popper and simultaneously lifting up on the trunk to no avail.

also of note, i can not use the key to unlock it because i have not changed out the key holes yet. I wanted to get everything square before changing the keyhole, installing my spoiler, and switching out the taillights.

How on earth can I get this thing open? What are my options? Best case and worst case?

Thanks in advance.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

you have to go through the back seat and pop the lock manually. you can try a long pole through the armrest or take off the entire back seat including the shield.

TWSTD11

how would i pop the lock? when i look at it the inside of the trunk, i can't see the actual lock, only the moving latch piece at the bottom of the trunk.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

that latch is the part you move. wish i had a picture to show you. if i remember right the latch moves to the passenger side of the car to open the trunk. have someone hit the popper and look at the part that moves side to side. that is what you have to push. you will have to either move the trunk over or move the latch for them to align properly.

TWSTD11

cool, thanks. i'll give it a shot.

the latch moves to the drivers side when the popper is pushed. do i need to push straight in (toward the back of the car) with the pole?

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

no. push it further in the direction in which it is moving and push up the trunk lid while you push it. DO NOT LIFT BY THE WING.

TWSTD11

got it fixed, thanks for your help! Even after I adjusted it to where i wanted it, the popper still wasn't working. I ended up having to take the latch off my 98 max and put it on the new trunk. Now it works like a charm.

those two latches are quite different. the piece that gets pushed to unlock the trunk is quite smaller on the 96 latch.

i ended up taking out the rear seats to get the trunk popped initially, which worked out pretty well. Great chance to clean the leather up

ForeverMAX

like all i have seen were alloy and i brought mycar from an old lady who was the only original owner of the car, so i know she wouldnt have painted them, they chrome and the edges are more rounded than the alloy honeycomb, the alloy honeycomb have sumwhat shar edges ont he spokes mine are smooth? just curious

Slayde

Any one know the size of the LED's in the spoiler? have a few that have gone out and may need to replace em.

Anyone know if these are worth the $$

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-X...70951621QQrdZ1

They look good but wasn't sure about the whole plug and play design.

aatorres83

anyone know what happened to the site www.custommaxima.com? it just says site disabled, I got a lot of my parts from those guys

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

From what I've read in the past month, it seems they have closed shop totally and gone out of business.

No website and no one picking up the phones.

Too bad, I got my first set of bumper lights from them many many years ago.

colombian_papi

I recently changed my rear brakes...and since then now when i drive my maxima and when i drive over a bumb or somethin...somethin on the back make this noise that sounds like the back calliper on the driver side was loose. is it the brake or is the suspension??..i already check the brake and its good..I dont kno wuts wrong..can anyone help me..

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

if you check the caliper bolts and they were on tight as well at the caliper bracket bolts and they are on tight,t hen the problem will lie else where.

It sounds like its the suspension since it occurs when you are going over bumps and not brakeing. Try pushing down on the car, at that corner and see if the car makes the noise again. It more than likely is something in your suspension, its just a matter of narowing it down to something specific.

MMM

Here is the detailed description of my 95 Maxima problem.

Jan 2, night, after pumping some 93 gas at a gas station, the car failed to start for the first two attempt.
No rotation at all. At third attempt, it caught fire and I went home.

Jan 3, morning, start normal, drive normal

Jan3, afternoon, start normal, drive normal
after ten minutes dirving, I made a stop at a walgreen store to pick up some stuff, then the car failed to start again.
there's only one click sound when I turn the ignition key, no rotation.
Call AAA, towed home.

Jan 7, took the starter off, went to autozone. Confirmed the starter bearing was broken, then got a new starter.
Put the new starter in, problem wasn't solved completely.
The new symptom :
motor rotates, but hard to catch fire
if apply gas, can catch fire easily
idle speed is not stable ranging from 300 rpm to 800 rpm

Jan 19, cleaned IACV and TB
no improvement

Jan 20, measure TPS, resistance is abnormally high

Jan 23, brought to dealer for diagonosic
report says TPS is OK, but purge volume control valve is leaking, need replace canister and clean the pipe.


Based on my observation, there are some doubt in it.

1. Before replacing the starter, the car runs well, no problem with idle what so ever.

2. My measurement of the resistence of TPS is very high ( 2K - 80K), but dealer said OK

Anybody with experience with replacing canister and cleaning the pipelines.

Thanks for reading the post, any suggestion is welcome

bkmax98

iTrader: (4)

i noticed a little bit of smoke coming from my radiator when my engine is on. would any of you guys know what could be wrong? i just replaced the radiator and did a anti-freeze flush about a month ago.

stevenmaxva

I want to upgrade alot on this grand old car, 250k original owner, where do I start?

thanks
Steve