noob here with a question. had my 99 maxima for about a year now and the "service engine soon" light just came on. I am assuming that this is the same as the check engine light, so I popped the cover off the ecu and went to try to read the codes like the how-to describes, but there is no self-diagnosis screw on my ecu. There is a clear spot in the sticker where the screw should be and it hasn't been broken, but underneath all I can see is a few tiny gears that look like the inside of the ecu itself. I'm sure I can bring the car to autozone or someplace and have them read the codes but I would like to try and do it myself. Anybody ever seen this or have any ideas? Thanks

 

Hi everyone,

i got a 96 maxima. The starter went bad in it a month ago, so i put an 11 tooth starter in it from advanced. All it did was grind so i exchanged it for another one. That did the same thing after starting 2 times and dying at menards. Had it towed to machanic who put a new flywheel in it and a new 10 tooth starter. it started great and drove her away.Then i went to start it again and it grinds again and it wont start. i hauled it back to them and the mechanics are stumped. Is it the wrong starter? Should i have a 8 tooth starter or a 10? anyones help would be great

 

10 or 11 tooth is what you want, not 8.

 

i have a 98 maxima se with a p0450 code. is there any way to bypass anything to get the light to turn off? i had the car checked at a local shop and they said that it was the sensor next to the canister in the back. i replaced it and the light came back on for the same code. brought it back to them and now they are like" oh we made a mistake u need the canister and the sensor under the hood". i just got laid off from work and have very limited to no extra money to do these repairs and i am running out of time on my emissions reject sticker. please help me if u can. thank you very much. i appreciate any and all help.

 

Have you checked all the listed causes for this code? http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index....1998&DTC=p0450
It's likely that one of these is your problem. The canister could be replaced with a JY one if you can find it cheap, and the valves can be cleaned as first steps.
I wouldn't go back to that shop again unless I was bleeding to death! ... then just to get a bit of duct tape. If you can't check this out yourself, maybe ask a friend or find an org member in your area.
Also, search the Forum, there may be more specific answers there.

 

Hello All.... I Just Brought A 96 SE Maxima... The Seller Told Me That The timing belt needs to be adjusted.. I have no idea what he means but when i start the car, I hear a loud fast knocking noise coming from where he pointed out the timing belt is located.. The car has oil but definitely needs a oil change cuz of how black it is.. I'm trying to see if I should bother fixing this car up and making it my best or just getting rid of it... Please HElp Me out If u Can!!

 

Adjusted as in it's out of time or adjusted as in has chain stretch or needs a new tensioner? Changing the main tensioner is a pain in the butt, but nothing compared to changing the chain or the secondary tensioners. Can't really say too much else without checking the timing or hearing said noise and where it's coming from.

 

Noob question - 98 max se my t side door ajared light does not lite up when door is open or passenger side replaced bulb but sitll no luck wire shows there power flowing threw it any suggestions would help plz. 2nd question ever sinced i got a new radio deck my antenna will not go back down but when i switch frm cd to radio signal is clear but again antenna remains up all the time.???? Help plz

 

When I bought my Maxima I was told to make sure to bring it to a Nissan dealer for the oil changes because they are "special". Is that a line of crap just to get me to bring my car to the dealership and pay more?

 

"line of crap".exactly.Ive heard them feed that line to new 7th gen max owners as well as far as requiring this new "ester" based oil.As far as blackstone labs and their oil testing capabilities,it doesnt matter if its wal-mart brand(super-tech) oil or mobil 1,they both perform the same.I have personally used castrol GTX in all my cars for years even in an old 2 dr cutlass w/ 350 rocket.no probs here.You will also get more answers in the 7th gen forum as well.

 

i am 16 years old and just bought my first car.. 1997 maxima gle... but my question is... my gle doesnt have leather seats... have any of you ever heard of or seen a gle without leather? everything else seems to b right... it has wood grain and the auto climate control and all that... just no leather seats

 

Never seen that before. All GLE's should have leather.

 

Definitely a line of crap.

 

yea i know... maybe they swapped out the leather for cloth?? some people like all the luxury but dont like the leather for summer time and wearing shorts... possible???

 

is it possible to use a 5th gen keyless entry remote with a 4th gen maxima??

 

Yeah, certainly possible.

 

do u know anything about the other question i posted? i wanted to know if a 5th gen keyless entry remote can be used on a 4th gen

 

Ok, I give, HELP. So I searched and did the following to no avail and need advice. All wiring was there nicely taped back.I'd prefer no t to go after-market as I've added this easily to a couple other cars I've owned. I pulled 2 other BCMs out of other 97s with keyless, pulled 3 LU05 units, installed Multi relay in trunk; have 12v at pin5 of LU05. Played musical boxes, pulled battery, pulled BCM fuse to reset and recognize units off for a minute or more...Newly bought remote with fresh battery. I am not new to cars or electronics but this is ticking me off. I did see a service bulletin regarding cars built prior to 8/96 but not sure about it. I have the 97 FSM. Do I need to treat this like a 96?
Do I also need the security light? Don't know why I would. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have tried to program the remote but obviously I cannot get the light flash even to signal its in program mode.
Thanks for your time
bob

 

I used these forums a ton back in the day but all has been quite in my Maxima world. Maybe thats cause its been parked for two years from the stalling issues that so many seem to be having. I lived in Missouri at the time which required inspections and since it died at every red light, I never bothered. Now I live in Alabama. No worries! Except it drove like crap.

On my first test run, I started hearing a hissing on acceleration. I jacked it up and found an exhaust leak. I patched it enough to get to the exhaust shop. Could this have been the problem all along? maybe now it was just so bad it was really affecting things? Mechanic recommended also replacing catalytic converter. $250 later and I stalled at a red light shortly thereafter. At least the car would drive at all again.

So I came back to my trusty maxima.org forums. I saw all the great stickies and had always heard from folks to check the IACV. Sunday I was bored so I decided to get some throttle body cleaner and go at it. I took the IACV completely off, and undid the throttle body somewhat so I could clean most of the gunk without undoing all of the hoses on the bottom.. Since it was Sunday, I had no new gaskets so those stayed the same.

Boy was I excited at all the crap in the Idle ACV... cleaned it up like new. Got it all back together and it ran pretty decent. Til I test drove it for a while. Eventually it was still dying occasionally. Not at every red light anymore at least.

I adjusted my idle to 900 rpms in park and its at about 600 in neutral or drive. There is a bit of hesitation somewhere between first and second gears but the main issue is stopping at a light and it dropping to 200 or 300 rpms. Since cleaning, it will drop and not always die.

Took it to autozone today and got:
P1441 an exhaust code they told me I'd need the dealer for more info
P0325 knock sensor
P0130 Bank 1 sensor 1 o2
P0732 something about the 2nd gear ratio

I've plugged these in and read all I can understand about them. I'm hoping the tranny code has been caused by either the slightly low tranny fluid or one of the hiccups from the stalling and exhaust issues. Before I had the leak fixed it would not even find the gear sometimes.

Tonight I got all excited to read about MAF sensors and how they are so many people's problem. I left the library to go outside and unplug it, and when I wiggled it, the car died. I unplugged it and started up but the idle is still inconsistent, varying from 800-1100 rpms. So I'm worried this may not be it.

I have the new fuel filter on the way but thats just a precaution cause it set so long- I shoudl be so lucky that its that simple...

My question... where do I start? I bought the gaskets for the IACV and TB and I thought I would clean the EGR tube? I bought those gaskets too. But if that is not likely causing my stalling, I don't want to get in there.

From what I read, O2 or knock sensors are probably not causing the stalling.

How should I proceed?

Dom

 

"Ok, I give, HELP. So I searched and did the following to no avail and need advice. All wiring was there nicely taped back.I'd prefer no t to go after-market as I've added this easily to a couple other cars I've owned. I pulled 2 other BCMs out of other 97s with keyless, pulled 3 LU05 units, installed Multi relay in trunk; have 12v at pin5 of LU05. Played musical boxes, pulled battery, pulled BCM fuse to reset and recognize units off for a minute or more...Newly bought remote with fresh battery. I am not new to cars or electronics but this is ticking me off. I did see a service bulletin regarding cars built prior to 8/96 but not sure about it. I have the 97 FSM. Do I need to treat this like a 96?
Do I also need the security light? Don't know why I would. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have tried to program the remote but obviously I cannot get the light flash even to signal its in program mode.
Thanks for your time
bob"
thanks

 

Okay Thanks for the tip.... I figured out how much of an hassle it's gonna be with that engine specially since it has almost 200k miles on it.... I'm gonna replace the engine with a 98 engine with 71k on it... I found that to be cheaper than fixing everything wrong with it....

 

Hey everyone! I just bougt my Maxima about a week and a half ago. In the interior, next to the interior light dimmer switch, there's this odd toggle switch. I've played with it a few times and it seems to do nothing! However, its bothering me and I was wondering if anyone has encountered soemthing like this before. The guy I bought it from said that the previous owner might have installed fog lights on the car and thats what the swich is for. The silly thing is that the fog lights come stock on the Maxima. Thanks for your consideration!

 

Someone could've switched the seats to cloth because the leather was ripped/worn etc...

 

You should do what YOU want to your car. You're the one driving it after all. To get your car shinyer, try Turtle Wax Wash and Wax, I used that on my 20 yr old Plmouth and it made the paint look 10 years younger!

 

Hey guys, I have a 1995 GXE 5mt with 194k on the clock. Bought it about 2 years ago with 164k on the clock. THe first thing that went on me was the injectors, had them all replaced had the MAF cleaned out and all other fluids changed. About a week ago I was driving at highway speeds when it died on me, the car stalled out but I was able to restart it on the fly. When it started back up it had hesitation in the powerband between 2500-3300 Rpm's. Now it drove ok for the next 2 days, then yesterday, it stalled out like 5 times, intermittently. The thing is, that it starts back up everytime, but with hesitation when I try to accelerate between 1st, 2nd and, 3rd gears. I have read and read and read all the posts and threads about 4th gen's stalling out and the MAF issues that most of our Maxima's have. I just wanted to know if maybe it might be a fuel filter AND the MAF or perhaps fuel pump? Is it safe to drive? Thank you all in advance for all of your help!

 

Just an update, I performed the MAF test of reving past 2500 RPM's. No problems. Car still stalls, So is the MAF functioning properly? Is it another problem? The only code it shoots out is downstream 02 sensor, but that has been on waaaay before the car started acting up. Once again thank you for all of your help on this matter.

 

How was the MAF cleaned?

 

Question:

Changed my drive belt today, I actually removed the idle pulley wheel for this,I was unaware that the center nut was in conjunction with the vertical bolt. I have it like this, thick wide cylindrical washer on the stud first, then the idler pulley (bearings facing away from the engine), then large black washer so it cups (or shields) the bearings, then the nut, Ive tightened it many ways, soft, hard, midrange, everything. The black washer has visible signs of scraping, i can actually feel the grooves.

If I dont tighten the nut enough, the pulley wobbles and wants to fall off, if i tighten it real hard, the pulley doesnt move, if i tighten it midway, the metal scraping noise comes. Whats the deal?

 

I was messing around with my for like an hour one time then said F it and took the assembly off. Took like two minutes to take it off, 3 bolts. The bolt has a square portion that lines up with the groove in the bracket, those may not be lined up correctly. Either way, you should be able to figure something out

 

Oh ok. I just noticed that I'm missing a piece from that assembly, by the diagram it looks like a washer that goes between the idle pulley and the shield? dust block? I dont know what that large black thing is called. But yeah. What are the dimensions on that piece 11931+A?

 

that washer is behind the plate, you can't see it unless u pull the idler "wheel" apart.(mine is seized together) If yours does come apart I'd just find a washer just large enough to fit over that bolt and be done with it

 

Well I was changing it without following proper instruction and just took the wheel off, but I definitely do not have that piece in between piece 11929 (known as the cover apparently) and the wheel.

This is what my wheel looks like
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...31134/image/8/

So should the black cover plate be in physical contact with the wheel? The washer should be separating the two right?

 

maf sensor or maf wirin harness just went through that what ur experiencin

 

Could be a fog light toggle switch, as not all trim levels of the Maxima came with foglights.

 

Following the cleaning guide posted on here, and using CRC MAF cleaner.

 

Ive had my Maxima for less than two weeks. One thing that I have noticed is that it is hard to accelerate. To go up to 80 kmph (49.7 mph) is fine, but to go any faster takes a lot of force to push down the pedal. So basicly the fastest the thing has gone is 90 kmph. Im not sure if I'm imagining things...

 

try clay baring it and then waxing it. clay baring will bring out most of the junk and imperfections in the paint. then u know what waxing does. should be able to bring out the shine. black is a pita to keep clean.

 

I think white is worse, every little scuff shows. Plus I hate the pearl (although it looks cool at night). I rather have gloss than pearl.

 

Hey guys,
I have been looking at cat-back exhaust systems, and i ran across a site called CustomMaxima.com. I just wanted to know if it would be a bad idea to buy the 159 dollar cat-back that they have for sale under the "CusomMaxima" brand name. It says its all stainless steel and modeled after the greddy evo2. I am on a budget, but i dont want to regret cheaping out. Any opinions or experiences with this exhaust would be appreciated!
The link to the system I am talking about is here:
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...m/Default.aspx

Thank you
Brad

 

I have that, its mediocre. Not very good quality SS IMO. If you have an aftermarket y pipe don't even bother keeping the muffler, it will sound like your car eat several barrels of burritos everyday. LOUD, not in a good way either.

If u want a good mod get a y pipe first. Read the FAQs too