Manual Transmission Rebuild Question
#1
Manual Transmission Rebuild Question
I am in the process of rebuilding a used transmission. I have installed input shaft, main shaft, 1st/2nd shift fork and the final drive assembly in the case. As per the FSM, I then installed the following. Interlock ball, interlock plunger, interlock ball, 3rd/4th shift fork, interlock plunger, two interlock *****, 5th shift fork, check ball, spring and finally the check plug (bolt). I can shift to all gears just fine if I do not install the check plug (bolt). In fact, it shifts fine until I start installing the check plug and when the spring starts to compress, I can no longer shift to 5th or reverse position. Could someone please advise what may be happening?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
I was able to put everything back together. After verifying that it shifts to all gears, I reinstalled the transmission in the car. Before this work started, the engine was running just fine. After re-installing everyghing, the engine crank; however, it would not start. There are no foult codes stored yet. What could have gone wrong before and after the transmission removal? Thanks.
#3
Are there any sensors left unplugged like the rear crankshaft position sensor?
I'm betting something was left unplugged.
What year model are you working on?
Hopefully, the transmission to engine mating surface was clean. The transmission to the engine surface area is an important ground.
I'm betting something was left unplugged.
What year model are you working on?
Hopefully, the transmission to engine mating surface was clean. The transmission to the engine surface area is an important ground.
#4
CS AR, Thanks for the advice.
I checked all of the sensor connectors including the crankshaft position sensor. I just wiped clean the engine/transmission mating surfaces before installing the transmission. My car is a 1999 Maxima SE which had a rebuilt transmission (rebuilt by a member here about 50k miles ago) that started making noises again. This time, I decided to take it apart to see what was inside. I saw that the rear input shaft bearing was bad. I also found that several teeth on the main shaft that drive the differential gear were chipped. I picked up a bad used transmission out of a 1998 which had a broken 3/4 synchro rings. I replaced the synchros and bearings and installed it in my maxima. I was puzzeled as to why the engine would not start as I did not do anything to it. When it cranks, it cranks strong for several seconds, then the light dims for a half second or so, then cranks strong again for several seconds. Sometimes it backfires a little.
I checked all of the sensor connectors including the crankshaft position sensor. I just wiped clean the engine/transmission mating surfaces before installing the transmission. My car is a 1999 Maxima SE which had a rebuilt transmission (rebuilt by a member here about 50k miles ago) that started making noises again. This time, I decided to take it apart to see what was inside. I saw that the rear input shaft bearing was bad. I also found that several teeth on the main shaft that drive the differential gear were chipped. I picked up a bad used transmission out of a 1998 which had a broken 3/4 synchro rings. I replaced the synchros and bearings and installed it in my maxima. I was puzzeled as to why the engine would not start as I did not do anything to it. When it cranks, it cranks strong for several seconds, then the light dims for a half second or so, then cranks strong again for several seconds. Sometimes it backfires a little.
#5
Ahhh a 99 model.
Tell me if your security light is glowing red like the one in this picture?
If you are attempting to start a 99 model (with the NATS security system) you've got to keep the DOOR SHUT. After roughly 5 attempts to start, NATS will think someone is attempting to steal the car and immobilize it. I've been there and done that.
Tell me if your security light is glowing red like the one in this picture?
If you are attempting to start a 99 model (with the NATS security system) you've got to keep the DOOR SHUT. After roughly 5 attempts to start, NATS will think someone is attempting to steal the car and immobilize it. I've been there and done that.
#6
My security light is not lit like in the picture you attached. With the dooors closed, the car still cranks strong but it won't start at all. I do mell gas, so I suspect iginition. I would suspect the crankshaft position sensor if I had messed with the flywheel, but the clutch wasn't even removed as it only has about 50k miles on it. The engine was running without issues before the transmission was removed. I have tried adding ground to the transmission case without any change in behavior. I would rather not removed the transmission unless the likely cause is identified. Any more ideas you may have will be appreciated. It's so cold tonight so I will resarch some more on the internet.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#7
That's good news about the security light. Resetting NATS can be an expensive deal.
If you smell gas, there is a possibility it is extremely flooded. Tomorrow, try holding the accelerator all the way to the floor at the wide-open-throttle (WOT) position and then try starting it. I've had to clear a flooding condition on my 99 more than once.
If you smell gas, there is a possibility it is extremely flooded. Tomorrow, try holding the accelerator all the way to the floor at the wide-open-throttle (WOT) position and then try starting it. I've had to clear a flooding condition on my 99 more than once.
#8
CS AR, thanks for your advice. I'll try it tomorrow. By the way, while cranking, mine pauses (hickups) similarly to crazy97's found below.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...verything.html
Hope you have a happy new year!
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...verything.html
Hope you have a happy new year!
#9
Thanks ryoy. Happy New Year to you too.
Here's the post where crazy97 fixed the problem. It might be worth a try.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post3906121
Here's the post where crazy97 fixed the problem. It might be worth a try.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post3906121
#10
I tried the WOT cranking for a while without success. While cranking, it continues hickups every several seconds. During the hickups, the all of the lights in the instrument panel go dark suggesting the system voltage goes low. I will now try the method crazy97 used. It is strange that the starter seems to get enough power for a while (several seconds at a time) and goes down for a moment. If grounding is the root cause, I would think that the starter would be weak during cranking. I will try the additional grounding method to see if it helps the situation. If if does, I will drop the transmission again and sand/file the engine/transmission mateing surfaces.
#11
After you've tried to start it, can you tell if a couple of the easy to reach spark plugs are wet or dry?
You need fire, fuel, and air for the engine to start and run. I would spend a little time verifying those things before dropping the trans again.
I've used jumper cables to supplement transmission to engine and body grounding while ruling out a grounding issue.
You need fire, fuel, and air for the engine to start and run. I would spend a little time verifying those things before dropping the trans again.
I've used jumper cables to supplement transmission to engine and body grounding while ruling out a grounding issue.
#12
CS AR,
It is all good now.
I have added a 6 gauge wire from the battery's negative terminal to the 15mm bolt (the small of the two) of the starter. I then wanted to check the 17mm bolts on the top half of the bell housing. I had my son do the top ones while I did the bottom ones from the engine side. The top bolts were not very tight, so I tightened them to approximately 100~120 ft-lbs. The engine started right up, and I think the hiccups are likely gone, too if the engine would need to crank that long before it started. I really appreciate your help.
This has been a great experience for me and my son who is in college and is the primary driver for the Maxima. I have maintained this car for 15 years now, and is fun to work on it with my son. It is a good feeling that he will be able to work on cars if he so chooses after he leaves the house.
Thanks again. I now will start looking for a good used main shaft so that I can build a spare transmission.
It is all good now.
I have added a 6 gauge wire from the battery's negative terminal to the 15mm bolt (the small of the two) of the starter. I then wanted to check the 17mm bolts on the top half of the bell housing. I had my son do the top ones while I did the bottom ones from the engine side. The top bolts were not very tight, so I tightened them to approximately 100~120 ft-lbs. The engine started right up, and I think the hiccups are likely gone, too if the engine would need to crank that long before it started. I really appreciate your help.
This has been a great experience for me and my son who is in college and is the primary driver for the Maxima. I have maintained this car for 15 years now, and is fun to work on it with my son. It is a good feeling that he will be able to work on cars if he so chooses after he leaves the house.
Thanks again. I now will start looking for a good used main shaft so that I can build a spare transmission.
#13
CS AR,
It is all good now.
I have added a 6 gauge wire from the battery's negative terminal to the 15mm bolt (the small of the two) of the starter. I then wanted to check the 17mm bolts on the top half of the bell housing. I had my son do the top ones while I did the bottom ones from the engine side. The top bolts were not very tight, so I tightened them to approximately 100~120 ft-lbs. The engine started right up, and I think the hiccups are likely gone, too if the engine would need to crank that long before it started. I really appreciate your help.
This has been a great experience for me and my son who is in college and is the primary driver for the Maxima. I have maintained this car for 15 years now, and is fun to work on it with my son. It is a good feeling that he will be able to work on cars if he so chooses after he leaves the house.
Thanks again. I now will start looking for a good used main shaft so that I can build a spare transmission.
It is all good now.
I have added a 6 gauge wire from the battery's negative terminal to the 15mm bolt (the small of the two) of the starter. I then wanted to check the 17mm bolts on the top half of the bell housing. I had my son do the top ones while I did the bottom ones from the engine side. The top bolts were not very tight, so I tightened them to approximately 100~120 ft-lbs. The engine started right up, and I think the hiccups are likely gone, too if the engine would need to crank that long before it started. I really appreciate your help.
This has been a great experience for me and my son who is in college and is the primary driver for the Maxima. I have maintained this car for 15 years now, and is fun to work on it with my son. It is a good feeling that he will be able to work on cars if he so chooses after he leaves the house.
Thanks again. I now will start looking for a good used main shaft so that I can build a spare transmission.
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09-26-2015 03:29 PM