When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
98 i30
i'd been using the trunk release on the driver's door, and on the remote fob, without incident: press the button, the electric latch makes a noise, and the trunk lid moves upward just a bit - and is able to be opened
There was an issue a couple of days ago - the lid wouldn't stay latched. I performed several attempts to "securely" latch the lid a couple of times that day (not "slamming" it, but "closing forcefully").
Today the trunk won't remote release at all; the electric latch makes a nose (is it less volume of a noise than before?) but the lid doesn't move up / doesn't become unlatched. I've tried providing an upward force on the latched lid while using the remote fob - but no luck, the trunk lid still doesn't unlatch, and I have to use the key to open the trunk in any event.
What's wrong with this trunk release , and how do I fix it ?
You can still use the key to get in and investigate.
I'd look at the solenoid and all linkage to the latch. Maybe clean all of it and lube it with white lithium grease or Silicone brake grease, including the innards of the latch mechanism. Same on the post and latch contact areas. Then if it doesn't remedy, start moving the components by adjustments. It worked for 20+ years, Nothing moved. Corrosion and/or lack of lubricant and/or the solenoid is weakening. Unless your car was in an accident recently.
Also, sometimes the gasket starts acting like it has glue on it and that's what's holding the lid down. CS_AR recommends a Honda silicone grease for that.
There is a slide lever under the latch in the trunk that when in the down position wont allow the use of the remote or the button on the drivers door. The solenoid will still operate but with a different noise. Im guessing when you were working out why the trunk wouldnt stay latched you have bumped it or it has dropped down on its own. Check the lever is in the up position. Pic is from my 5th gen, but all the earlier ones are the same. Trunk can still be opened with the key when the lever in in the down position. When the latch is moved to the down position, it moves the tab away from the solenoid, so when the remote/button is used, the release wire isnt pulling against anything, hence the different sound. From memory it is a security feature for when the car is being serviced etc and the owner doest want to allow access to the trunk via the remote or button, but only if the spare valet type key is left with the car.
Last edited by stevesmax; 03-01-2019 at 08:38 PM.
Reason: addition
I always wondered how, when Valet Parking, we could keep attendants out of our trunks. I got two keys (and two identical FOBs) with my Max, but one wouldn't open the trunk. Which I though was stupid because the the bottom on the driver's door wasn't capable of being disabled. Now after 20 years, Someone shines a light on this!
Wow Stevesmax - that's some real johnny on the spot stuff right there. That's what it was. Thank you.
No problem. Seems to be a little known feature fitted to most Nissans. A 1982 Datsun I once owned had that slide lever to cancel the trunk opener, so its not a new idea. Only reason I knew about it, was i saw it in the owners manual that was still in the car when I got it.
I'm glad I found this thread, because I didn't know about the up/down function of the trunk latch. But even after making sure mine is in the unlocked position, I'm still not able to remotely pop my trunk. Here's what I've done so far:
-Replaced the motor and hinge with units from another car. My original motor still worked, but it seems like the cable was stretched a bit. The original bracket was also bent out of shape somehow.
-Lubricated the lower hinge assembly as well as the lock mechanism in the trunk lid.
-Made sure the lower hinge is in the unlocked position.
-Played with the position of the motor and hinge.
-I do have some sound deadening in the trunk lid, but it still won't pop/unlock even if I'm pulling up on the lid with someone pressing the release button.
The motor is pulling the release cable, and I can hear it making a different sound when it's in the locked/unlocked position. So it's mostly working. But it still won't actually unlock without using the key. Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to make this work?
Here's something from left field that I've noticed on my 99......
The rubber on the lid seal seems to be degrading and is starting to stick more every year as well as crushing easier with less spring to push up. So even if the latch releases, the lid stays tight. And sound deadening isn't helping that!
Sil-Glyde makes a silicone grease that's good for brake jobs and coating weatherseal. (and many other things)
CS_AR has had a lot of good experience with a Honda weatherseal silicone grease as well. On Amazon.
Here's something from left field that I've noticed on my 99......
The rubber on the lid seal seems to be degrading and is starting to stick more every year as well as crushing easier with less spring to push up. So even if the latch releases, the lid stays tight. And sound deadening isn't helping that!
Sil-Glyde makes a silicone grease that's good for brake jobs and coating weatherseal. (and many other things)
CS_AR has had a lot of good experience with a Honda weatherseal silicone grease as well. On Amazon.
Hope this helps!
Yup, I've got both products (the other being Shin Etsu) already but haven't used them on this piece of weatherstripping yet. I was waiting to replace it with a nicer one I picked up at a junkyard since mine isn't in the best shape. But I figured that's probably not going to solve it since it won't unlock even if I'm pulling up on the trunk while the button is pressed.
Yup, I've got both products (the other being Shin Etsu) already but haven't used them on this piece of weatherstripping yet. I was waiting to replace it with a nicer one I picked up at a junkyard since mine isn't in the best shape. But I figured that's probably not going to solve it since it won't unlock even if I'm pulling up on the trunk while the button is pressed.
It it possible the cable stretched or there's a cable adjustment area like on bicycle brakes that needs a goosing? Or an adjustment on where the solenoid mounts in the body to slide it away from the lock, forcing the lever to move enough to release the lid?
And of course, lube the S__t out of everything? LOL EVERYTHING!
Or..... Somehow the solenoid has been compromised and doesn't pull the entire distance anymore. Yeah, you hear it, but it doesn't pull far enough to get the latch past the hook.
It it possible the cable stretched or there's a cable adjustment area like on bicycle brakes that needs a goosing? Or an adjustment on where the solenoid mounts in the body to slide it away from the lock, forcing the lever to move enough to release the lid?
And of course, lube the S__t out of everything? LOL EVERYTHING!
Or..... Somehow the solenoid has been compromised and doesn't pull the entire distance anymore. Yeah, you hear it, but it doesn't pull far enough to get the latch past the hook.
I've adjusted everything that can be adjusted in every direction, and still no improvement. Everything has been lubricated. This solenoid pulls the cable hard and appears to pull it pretty far.
I've adjusted everything that can be adjusted in every direction, and still no improvement. Everything has been lubricated. This solenoid pulls the cable hard and appears to pull it pretty far.
Well if the key works and the remote (solenoid) doesn't..... Turn the key and watch how far the release lever travels. Then watch how far the solenoid travels and moves the same lever when you push the button. I bet not as far.
I wouldn't assume anything. I'd observe and measure. Because there's no other place to look. It's all right there and there only!
If you have to, pull the whole thing out and I bet you will then find what you can't see installed. Hopefully, you are in a state that has Pick a Part Junk Yards. Or Contact Mike... Lux97Max. He's good at finding parts. I believe he's in MD.
Well if the key works and the remote (solenoid) doesn't..... Turn the key and watch how far the release lever travels. Then watch how far the solenoid travels and moves the same lever when you push the button. I bet not as far.
I wouldn't assume anything. I'd observe and measure. Because there's no other place to look. It's all right there and there only!
If you have to, pull the whole thing out and I bet you will then find what you can't see installed. Hopefully, you are in a state that has Pick a Part Junk Yards. Or Contact Mike... Lux97Max. He's good at finding parts. I believe he's in MD.
Yeah, I guess I'll hop in the trunk and watch from the inside while my wife unlocks it and see if I can spot any differences.
Like I said, this solenoid is from a car at a junkyard, which just so happened to be one of the PaP yards in MD
03-01-2019, 12:57 PM
