There were a couple threads about this recently. They said its normal for the exhaust to come out of one tip under normal idling. The other opens when there is enough pressure in the muffler like when accelerating.

 

i have a question. i have both the P0138 and P0139 code. how many sensors Do i have to change? I have a 2K SE and I am not sure if it is fed-spec of cali-spec. is there a way to find out? Thanks

 

If you don't know the answer, don't give bad advise. As mentioned above, the OEM muffler has a pressure actuated flapper that opens the left tip as the flow increases. At idle, only the right tip allows flow.

 

Take a look at post 14 in the thread below. If you have the four connectors shown in the lower diagram (three in the front and one on the back near the right side strut), you have a cali spec.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=552437

 

Awesome! Thanks for the answer.

 

any other thoughts on the questions I posted before? thx

D.

 

Anyone Got/know of any pics of 5th Gens with Axis Hiro's 19 or 20's. Thanks!

Tiler

 

i have an 01 se, need a new maf sensor. what's the best place to order one? i saw something in a thread once about a mazda place, which seemed weird. any phone numbers, websites or part numbers would be great. thanks!

 

I just found a local junkyard and asked them to cut off about 8 inches on the pigtail harness. Then I just spliced it in using what I needed. Nissan tried to charge me like almost $800 for a new one b/c they could only sell the whole engine harness.

 

Look in the classifieds section. Someone is selling a set.

 

how much did that cost ya? also any advice on what cd player i could get that would fit well? and how hard is it to replace the cd player and all 4 speakers?

 

Are aftermarket torque converter made to fit specific years (89-94, 95-99, ect), or are they all universal (from 89-2001)?

Here is the one I am currently looking at, however, it doesnt specify the year.

Any suggestions?

 

It does specify the transmission though...

Models: Nissan Infinity

Units: RE4F02A

According to this link: http://www.txchange.com/sk.htm , that is for the 85-96 Maxima automatics, and our transmissions are RE4F04B.

 

Hmm...

Is this what you're referring to?

SK® RE4F04B

Nissan Maxima, Altima and Infinity i30 1993-2004
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:
Rough 1-2nd when cold; no 3rd after 3-2 4-2 kickdown; leaky, worn inner clutch seal; hard or soft 1-2 shift; long shift. Includes high temp low shrink rings. Improved shifts firmer 4th & lockup.

 

Also, what exactly are the kits being sold here?

Shift kits

I would assume its a do-it-yourself valve body kit, no?

 

hey guys i have a small problem...ive serarched for a solution and tried a couple of things, but no luck...my license plate lights stopped working. everything else is working. its just the plate lights wont go on anymore. i pulled and inspected every fuse in the engine and interior compartments and they are all fine. i changed the bulbs as well and still nothing. checked the wires as far as i could reach and see and nothing seems out of place there....any suggestions. anyone else ever have this problem...again both bulbs are not working but everything else is working...any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance..

take care,
mat rivera

 

Does anyone know if the 5 and 5.5 gen bose system the same? More specifically, the rear sub assembly.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=30

Check the link for the specific part i'm reffering too. I need to know if they are interchangable between 5 and 5.5 gens.

 

i have a 03 maxima... when i hit the gas It dose not go no way But if i hit it full gas It Start makin a weird noise like clickin then a knockin Sound and Smoke at Frist alil...i just did a oil Change can it be the oil I used synthetic-blend 20w50 on my 125k mile maxima..

 

Why in the world are you using 20w50? That weight ratio is way too high and I suspect is the cause of your problems.

You need to redo the whole oil change and put in 5w30 or 10w30, whichever you prefer, ASAP.

I suggest not even starting your car until you do.

Good luck.

 

so that wat it Can be???????? before i did the Change i had a Clickin sound When i hit to the 2000rpm it Start clickin then it stop

 

what grade fuel do you use?
has the oil ever been low when you changed it?

 

i use 89. and the last time i changed the oil i used the Same as 20w50

 

use the proper fuel (91+) and the sound should go away.
as stated above, also use the proper oil.

 

i have a 03 maxima... when i hit the gas It dose not go no way But if i hit it full gas It bug out and Start makin a weird noise like clickin then a knockin Sound and Smoke at Frist alil then when it get to 3000rpm it speed

 

I know these questions regarding these codes have been posted - I've read much of them. I just want to get all the symptoms down and see how much it's going to cost me to get this all done.

First - 2002 SE M/T.

I pulled two codes - p0138 (said pending in my reader for this one) and p1147. Applicable TSB here. I cleared them, and they have yet to come back. However, I'm getting about 26mpg in the city and 30-32 interstate (when I was getting about 19-20, and 28ish before, respectively), there is noticeable loss of power, idling at about 600rpm (is that normal?), and the engine seems to be trying much harder at/around 4000rpm. These all point to a defaulted lean fuel/air mixture. So, I'm sure the problem w/ the 02 sensor still exists; I just don't know the details of what it takes for the codes to come back up.

I read that I can get them from somebody on here and for a little cheaper.. if I do this myself, what do can I do, or what do I need to do about the ECM reprogram stated in "b." under the "Actions" section of the TSB? And in the TSB it says to replace both O2 sensors (Page 4, #3).. Is that for liability or does it actually need to be done?


Also - I've been having the issue described in this TSB regarding the intermittent hesitation/drop during acceleration. How much would it cost to have this done? I have no warranty, this was purchased from Carmax, and I had a handful of things fixed by them (Bose cutout, suspension noise, uneven drivers door, HVAC vent noise).

So, a recap of questions:

Is the 02 sensor install fairly easy?

Should I replace both or just the one that came up (HO2S2)?

Will I have any problems getting the dealer to reprogram the ECM according to the TSB after I install the new sensor; what's the associated cost?

And the cost for the hesitation TSB?



A flatbed rolled back into my car causing only cosmetic damage and I'm having it fixed soon.. if possible I would like to get this all done at once.

 

02 sensor replacement is a pain because of location but still easy enough to do. most people dont even need the reflash.

 

hey sooner, I posted some pictures about a couple of things i have questions on... i know you have a lot of knowledge on the max so maybe you would be able to give me an answer.

 

the hose is the tranny breather hose
i dont know what the wire harness is.

 

thanks... guess time to find another member w/ an 00 gle near me so i can check

 

how do i know when the MAF is bad??

 

can anyone get me a picture of there chrome or black injen intake on there 5th gen maxima? i wana see which looks better so i can know which one i want. which one do you guys think looks better? thanks

 

an intake isnt for looks...there are better intakes than an injen.

 

I like shinny things...

here is a thread that has engine bay shots... it may help...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=375229

 

dude first change to the correct oil and gas and then you can see if your maf is bad

 

ya i kno but i rather get one that i personally like better. wut other brands are there better then injen? thanks

 

thanks sundown

 

np glade i could help

 

Any more comments (post #5025)?

Specifically how much it would cost to get a ECM update for the codes TSB, and how much it would be to do the entire other TSB.

Also - the codes have not come back in about 2 weeks, but I'm showing all the symptoms of a lean mixture from a bad O2 connection..

 

Due in part that the issue you are referring to has been beaten to death you aren't going to really get the answer you'd want for this question. Honestly, an intake doesn't to much for our cars if anything at all so i'd strongly suggest that you get something that you like and not expect to see any gains from an aftermarket intake regardless of the brand.

 

If it's a lean AFR under decent load, it's most likely your MAF is on it's way out. Test it by this method, http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=335327 and if it is bad, do this:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....de+for+2k2%27s

O2 sensor typically does not show a loss in power, but will show a loss in MPG. This is due to the fact that it will run quite rich w/o functioning O2 sensors. When O2's go out, you run rich, when a MAF goes out, you run lean.

Typically, TSB's can be free. I would go into the dealer and see what they say, go to another dealer if you don't like what they tell you.
Read above links.