Where is the best place to score a MAF for this 2000 Maxima? I called my local foreign car parts store and they said $335 or something like that. Advance auto parts said $225.

 

Here's a MAF thread w/ PICS.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?postid=3656873

Another test post or 2:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=10
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...83&postcount=1

I did not see in your post where you revved it to a certain RPM, IMO, this should be done as part of the test.


Secondary on that one. Which has no affect on closed loop AFR UNLESS your primaries are dead, and in which case, a code would show up for them (primaries) if they're not well.
I'm always correct. Not really, but moving on--> What makes you believe you're running lean? And if you are, it could be a number of things, but ultimately, I think it is the MAF. Check for air leaks in the intake, most namely behind the MAF, which could be anywhere from the intake manifold, to the coupler directly behind the MAF and everywhere in between, this should be done right after you have completed the test (rev portion) of course.

If your injectors are staying open, your car would not run very well at ALL. Pop a plug and look at its condition if you do in fact think your injectors are stuck open.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...45&postcount=2

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=309404

 

look at NeMax...throwing out the knowledge and feeding the noobs

 

Fo sho man he's on a roll.. haha!

Thanks for all the info - I didn't know the rev portion was required.. I'll have to get some help on that one, it was hard enough getting a good connection on the multimeter w/ that blue foam insulation in there..

The reason I think I'm running lean is because my MPG got about a 6 mpg increase in the city and 4-5 on the highway and there is a noticeable loss in power - used to be very quick to move through the RPMs. Now it feels like I have 4 other people in the car with me. I noticed all of this once my O2 sensors went out, but I think I noticed something prior to this; just thought it was in my head.

Side note - I never went back to see who posted about the lean/rich; seems like you know your stuff!

I'm taking my car to the dealer's body shop next week for some repairs costing about $1200 - you think they could/would run that 2002 M/T TSB on my car for cheap/free ( no warranty)? That would identify and replace the MAF if it's bad. I would try for the O2 sensor TSB as well, but I cleared my codes and there is nothing coming back.

 

i taught him well


however, he still isnt the top poster...two people have helped more

User Name Posts
soonerfan 384
irish44j 364
NmexMAX 355

 

Not always the case. I've seen quite a few dead primaries that did not trip any o2 codes, only the occasional lean codes and fuel trims that constantly indicated it was running "lean" yet black smoke could be seen from the exhaust. Shaking the o2 sensor > than the ecu's detection logic in the case of when they read erroneously lean conditions.

But if you meant to say that if the ecu had switched over to the secondary's because the primary's were not well than yes. But the wording is a bit misleading in that it implies that if the primary o2's are not well if will throw a code.

 

Is this the case even on an A33B ECU? On an A33B (cali spec, 4-O2's), when the primaries go, then it is the secondaries job to keep it intact. FWIW: I am using my secondary sensor inside my primary header port. No primaries attached whatsoever. Works fine for me.
That's because I don't make every single reply separate posts, but do when it's convenient.
It isn't necessarily required, but all options should be exhausted before moving on. Not sure how your $$ situation is, but I would look for a cheap one off of www.car-part.com and just try and replace it anyway. I actually carry a spare MAF in my toolbox. Have yet to repalce it (99.5k) but have heard too many horror stories.
O2 sensors don't affect high load performance, so there goes that theory.
I spend way too much time reading/fiddling.
Mention it to them, and try and make sure that TSB isn't tacked on to your already high bill.

 

When the sensor is extremely out of spec, which in this case I would imagine it would be, I would expect a code. In some other situations (not BCoons) I would only expect a small variation in MPG, not an extreme one like BCoons. Also, A33B ECU > all others before it. Meaning it's a lot more sensitive to items like that, and wills et a code for far simpler items. I blame the eThrottle.

 

One of them was on an a33b ecu, but FTR Even the A32 ecu has that function.....

"Even if the switching charachteristics of the front heated oxygen sensor shift, the air-fuel ratio is controlled to stochiometric by the signal from the rear heated oxygen sensor"


Now the real question is, why are you using your secondary's? Your closed loop control must be all whacked out, I'm sure that when the ECU reverts to using secondary's as primaries that it takes into account that signal is post-cat, which in your case it is not.

 

I know what the FSM states.

Closed loop is rarely used, search eng92 for his thoughts on it, as I take his opinion on it, and will add that I think it is essentially a joke. EXTREMELY light load JUST above idle (700 RPM) to about 1200 RPM. IMO. I've verified this with my WBO2.

I am too lazy to extend my primaries, the secondaries reached, it works, that's why.

 

a33b ecu owns all, that's why I am driving my '95 GXE now and also takig a road trip to philly this weekend. I would have expected codes also, codes other than lean, but nope, no the case. And lean codes are tripped at > 25% IIRC, that's significant gas mileage, the two that I can remember where complaining of < 220 per tank IIRC

 

STOP IT I HAVE TO GO TO WORK! Lol

Well it's a function of load & rpm's, I bet you spend 50% of your time in closed loop. And yes, I'm pulling that number out of my ***, but drive aqround with a scanner. I don't see how you verified closed loop with a WB, I must be missing something though

Splice the secondaries into the primaries and stop being lazy!

 

The RPM's are clumsy from 700 - 1200 due to semi erratic AFR when coasting about 30-40 MPH, once I slow when making a stop, or even rest my foot on the throttle, (VERRRY light, not 40% or greater as some may think, and come to a speed that is about about 1200 RPMs when driving, idle control takes over) the RPM & AFR stabilize (MAF/idle control takes over). AFR/performance is fine @ idle, and fine ALL other RPM/loads/throttle positions. MAF actually aids in idle AFR, not O2's as some may like to think again. So, giving up some small clumsiness from 700-1200 when coasting around town is fine for me. The rate at which the RPM needle drops in my case, is amplified by my LRMAF. This is getting OT, and turning into a pissing contest. You're right I'm wrong, we'll leave it at that.

As for BCoon, once you've tried what I stated, move on to the 'other' guys advice.

 

I called that guy, but there are 2 guys there by the name of David. Which one is it? Anyways, I havent talked to either. How much does he usually charge for MAF's? Just curious!

 

Approx. $90 shipped. Dave Burnette is the one to talk to.

 

Personally, I'd find a good independent body shop instead of a dealer. The vast majority of dealer body shops flat out suck, or they farm it out to equally crappy franchise body shops. Typically, the problems include visible sanding marks under the paint, rotary swirls, overspray in the door jambs, glass and on body panels adjacent to the repainted ones, mis-aligned panels, runs, excessive orange peel, etc.

 

Well great! It was the other guys fault (flat bed rolled back into me...). They are just throwing a new bumper/grille on and matching paint.. hopefully not too complicated!

 

I'm guessing that would that be "air flow meter" in their list..?

 

Hi Guys,

I am looking at getting a use 02 maxima gle with the VQ35 in it. I is a 6 spd manual fully loaded...even a heated steering wheel.

The biggest problem is that it has ~150,000KM on it. How long do these engines usually last for?

Second thing, is there a nissan VQ35 AWD 6spd manual? From what I understand is they dont make the G35x 6spd right?

 

Check the car in the full sun, make sure they know in advance that rotary swirls, overspray, etc will NOT be acceptable.

 

I bought mine with 146,000kms... Only has 148,000 kms now, but it's been good so far. If you maintain it right, I'd say you got a long way to go still... Read through some posts on the forum, and before you know it, you'll be lost in the 110,000 MILES, and 120, and 150, and 200 from some people. I'd say go for it, that is if everything checks out right.

 

Hey all. My Maxima has been in storage for a few months now. All the oil should have settled by now, but I'll have to take it out this weekend. Is there a special way to start it to get the oil moving around? I know of making sure there is no spark, and then cranking it. I'm guessing this works on the Maxima too. Where is the best place to disable the spark system? Or if there is something wrong with this method, let me know about that too... Thanks

 

You can unplug the COP (coil over plug) from the harness.

 

This is correct.

 

They are lying to you. GLE NEVER came, nor will ever come in 6MT.

Ask that other question on www.myG35.com. As fr as my knowledge serves, no, they do not.

 

Removing the fuel pump would do better for you rather than removing the coil packs.

The fuse is located under the dash.

 

You can pull the ECU fuse. That will keep the motor from starting.

 

hello it's my first posting. i got a 2001 gle.

I had a question about struts?Due to our hard winters and roads, someone suggested me to take KYB-GR-2s instead of illuminas.he claims that my illuminas will be way to stiff in the winter.

Anyone who has similar winter can help me out with this

thanks

 

You wont get an response, not even a wanna be crank. He wants mechanical motion, just not any spark. Typically when car is 'trying' to start, it lacks either fuel or spark. You want at least one of those for some movement. Take my advice instead.

 

Illuminas are adjustable, so, the harshness is adjustable. I have yet to hear of any one complain about Illuminas being stiff in the winter, but I have heard people complain about AGX’s being stiff when cold.

For more advice in and on this subject, do some research in this forum:
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=68

 

I know the next question has nothing to do with cars, but I want to know... KRRZ350 who is that in your avatar? hahaha




Ok carry on...

 

there's this thing called "PM'....use it.

 

hey guys! Im a noob here and to the Maxima generation and I just bought a 2001 Max 20th Anniversary Edition!!! It has 103K miles on it and runs like a champ! I have just 3 questions to ask (for now) haha

1. What kind of oil is best to use on it since its over 100K now?

2. What size HIDS are plug and plays?

3. The factory Bose system sounds sweet but at times the bass cuts off and then back on, what could this be?

Any help is greatly appreciated....thanks guys!

 

1. The fluids forum will give you the best answer
2. No idea
3. Bose system woes are in the FAQ sticky

 

umm didnt find much in the "fluids" threads besides using mobil 1 synthetic but no weight

Nothing found in the audio section with the same problem that im having...

Are you a noob as well?

 

1. Most of us run 5w-30 mobil 1 i have since i got my car and 128k miles later no problems
2. The bulbs are h4 so you can have hid kit from the lowest they come to the highest they come as long as its a h4 kit. Installed one these kits might look nice but the higher in k value you go the less you see and the more glare you give off and also the more likely you are to be pulled over
3. Get in your trunk and check out the connections between the amp and the sub, you'll see it, the amp is this small black box close to the sub

 

yeah I found the amp already, thanks for the help!!!!

 

Well then, use Mobil1. You won't get a consensus here or anywhere else about what the best oil is. Some prefer synthetic, other's prefer dino oil. As long as you are using the proper weight oil and change it at least as often your owner's manual suggests, you will be fine.

The FAQ section in THIS forum.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...95&postcount=1

First question listed...

Audio:
Common Bose Questions-link is probably broken though...

Not so much. I already knew what oil I was going to use even before I bought my car.