NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

That's the perfect size for the OEM 17x7.



How are you calculating your MPG? A bad O2 will kill MPG. Run a tank or 2 and see if the problem persists, and again, keep your eye on the SES light and if it's on, get it read.

My guess is your custom IM has a leak somewhere. Please do post pics or tell us where to find them.

Mattlikespeoples

didn't think this warrented a thread. Should I be concerned with a driver's side window that rolls up and down slower that the others? Perhaps the motor is going out or something?

VQP0WER

Get some silcone spray and liberally spray the window tracks down. Roll the window up and down and repeat.

dewd

VQP0WER that wasnt it. but i managed to stabalize my rpms so it no longer shuts itself off while i idle at stop lights or accell on park thanks to a good ole mechanic buddie of mine who got wasted with myself and some females and soon later helped me out with my car on the way back home lol (dunno what he did)

but now my problem seems to be that when i hit gas and the car is going on first gear it kinda jukes back and then forward.. i AM pressing the accel lightly but when its switching to first it will make the car kinda jukes back and then moves forward.. kinda hard to explain it but its only on the first gear.. the 2nd,3rd etc all switch fine with no juking what-so-ever. only happens on first (im on automatic btw)

what could be causing that.

ive changed the sparkplugs within the last 2 weeks and car ran fine.
I did re-use the same coils.. prolly shouldnt
use same sparkplug wires.
installed a new intake, which left 1 of the front sensors (i guess from the scoop) hanging and it wont even reach my intake so i might have to figure something out for that.. dunno what though
uh, i also installed a amp/sub/mp3 radio but thats not it because ive already ran test on that and eliminated that.


i did notice when i ran the engine with 1 of the MAF sensors unplugged it ran kinda stable but when i acell it it panic'd and shut my engine off/rpms dropped so i used to MAF sensor cleaner and cleaned pretty much all my eletrical/sensors with that. cleaned the pipe 2 and that springy looking pipe behind the MAF aswell. but doing this and adjusting my idle thing aswell as making sure that little pin touched the other piece fixed my wierd idle problem (mech friend did this all credit goes to him)

sorry im rambling on and on but im just trying to figure out why my car might be hesitating on first gear but working fine on every other

should i connect that sensor somewhere even though its not reaching anywhere unless i can somehow extend it but im not very car savy at all im a tech but for computers not cars im picking things up though for sure.

..could i cut the sensor wires and add some more wire and eletric-tape them back up and do that whole thing and add it to my MAF tubing ?

man i have alot of questions in 1 post!

Solebreaker

i fill around 15.5 i get about 200-210 till im empty. so thats about 13.5 mpg or so its the same as i have had my o2 blown and i recently fixed it with a brand new sensor. Is there any suggestions that will help my mpg gas isnt popping right now. Thank in advance.

VQP0WER

Yikes, would have been nice to know all this information before.....

Yes, you need to connect your sensors! They are there for a reason....

Install your OEM intake and connect everything and see if it fixes your problem.

Gswift1

ok guys im gettin real tired of the front end rattle i hear so much about... i picked up a 03 titanium edition and after a few days i hear the rattle... so i join forces with you guys and learn about the sway bar links. so i pick up a set and have them installed and the rattle is still there, so i order a new set of front and rear tokico's and a new set of strut plates [turn plates] and have everything installed and aligned. the rattle is still there!!!! any suggestions...any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

dewd

haha this car is so funny i also have to replace my swaybar end links i think my 20" rims and the crappy FL roads have messed them up.

it just doesnt stop!

Gswift1

the bad part is I'm still at stock height and stock wheels! But I previously had an 01 SE on Tein's and 19's and had no problems! Go figure!

notched306

does my 02 max have a timing belt or chain?

maximaman86

I'm looking for a 02-03 Maxima driver's side tail lamp. Pm if anyone has one for sale. Some ***** tried to steel mine a couple of weeks back and chipped the top part of the tail light. It does not affect the operation of the tail light but I just want to fix it.

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

not trying to be an *** here but you might get flamed.

there's a buy and sell thread that you can also check and/or post

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

it has a timing chain

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

you're not the only one.
if you use SEARCH option you'll find a few threads.

Thread one
Thread two

Read thru them, they might help.

evalyn

I think my rotors are warped, but I'm not sure. Can I let them wear out completely, or to I need to get them replaced asap?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

use the classifieds sub-forum

there is no flaming in this thread

1. get your rotors turned (resurfaced), you don't have to replace them.
2. get QUALITY aftermarket pads such as Hawk HPS. Do NOT use cheap pads or OEM pads.
3. Your rotors aren't warped, they have uneven pad material buildup from the poor-quality OEM pads. It's a common problem.

8520

I've been on other forums where people had designed a java type app that would allow you to plug in the vin number of a car and it would tell you what options it had, I don't suppose there is one of these for maxima's floating around somewhere?

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

ive heard of one, Its actually made my Nissan........i also dont think its programmed in Java, but maybe VB

8520

Well, same idea. Hmm. Time to try google.

notched306

sweet,i was hopping it did.now im sure it has tensioners for it,when should those be replaced and how long will the chain last before it needs replaced also?thanks for the info so far guys

FRZ251

This question may be more related to the 4th gens, but what does the MEVI do for the car as far as power, I test drove a 1999 Max SE limited edition today, and It didn't seem to throw me back in the seat like my friend's 3.5 6speed max. I'm seeing youtube videos of Maximas doing 160+mph with the 3.0L vq30de engine in the Middle East. Thanks guys.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I wouldn't worry about it unless you have some rattling. if you do, ask the question in here, as there are many threads on it. 1 cause can be a bad tensioner, but it's typically low oil.


Interesting concept here. The MEVI or 00VI add top end power. Not sure what you’re basing your idea of 160+MPH, (the ME version of the A32 only marks up to 140), but that’s not a good base of opinion (thrusting you back and 160 MPH).

There are other factors at play here. What year is your car and what are your goals?

BTW:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-posting.html

d.sull

I've been using the forum for a while now before joining while I was looking for a Maxima. I finally found one after searching for a little more than a year. It's an 01 SE 5spd. I've got a question that I thought I found an answer to before last night.

I'm throwing a P0171 (too lean bank 1) code and I've done a lot of research here on how to fix it (invaluable information btw), but last night while screwing around with my girlfriend and her 01 Civic on the interstate, I found that the car won't accelerate past 90. Could this be related to the P0171 code? Also, the car is choppy accelerating and cuts in and out while on cruise at 80. I am going to see about getting a MAF from DAVEB as these seem to be common problems, but I wanted some input from some people much more knowledgeable than myself. Anyone's Max have similar symptoms? Is the MAF the right place to start or should I go O2 sensor? I need to figure it out because I can't get shamed by a four-banger stock Civic.

Thanks for the help in advance. This forum has been my Google for the past few months. Lots of knowledgeable people.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Definitely your MAF on that one. ^^^ I'd go MAF before O2 sensor.

d.sull

Thanks. Do you think I'd need the ECU reprogrammed? From what I've read it seems to be sometimes yes/sometimes no kinda deal depending on the car. Will it throw a CEL to tell me it needs reprogramming or will it harm the car somehow?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Not sure about the SES, but it will act abnormally. So there's really only one way to see if it needs the reflash or not. And that is to get it and see what happens.

sunstream453

ok, well im thinking about picking up an Emanage blue, but im not sure if i will benefit.

mods: TS full spec with z33 vtc map, vafc-2, LM-1 WBO2, SSIM, hollowed precats (lol), test pipe, y-pipe.

any opinions?

sunstream453

also, are all utec's created equal? if i could get a utec, out of any vehicle, would it be the same as one from a z/g except needing to upload vq35 data? or do i need one specifically from a g/z? i ask this because i see some selling for 700 and others for 250. i know the 700 ones probly are with the adapter harness, maps and other BS, but is there any hardware difference inside the unit?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Do you know what configuring a UTEC into an A33B ECU entails? I would defiantly get one for the Z/G. That harness will become very valuable to you.

Instead of doing this, why not get quality headers first?

If you get a UTEC, then that would mean I've seen 2 notable anomalous "mod decisions" on here.

that be you, and I've also seen a guy install cams & valve springs BEFORE getting headers.

Beyond me.

sunstream453

sooo, does that mean they are or arent the same? im REALLY not worried about wiring dificulty

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's VQ35 specific, i.e. sensors/firing order, etc. Hence the harness statement from me earlier.

Example:
You can't use a Q25 ECU to run a VQ35.

sunstream453

well its not like its a standalone. the EU is the same unit for every vehicle, just different software so i was hoping it would be the same. i guess a better piggyback means its more application specific. well that sucks, cause the wrx units are used for like 250, but the z/g units are at least 500...FTG!!! i guess ill just enjoy what i have for now, try to fine tune everything

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The UTEC can be run in standalone, and it has 'hard' timing, etc, something that the EU is not capable of.

Patch harness is around 200-300 $ for the Z, so you even if you bought one for a cheap price, you still need a harness.

sunstream453

i would just run the pins straight to the connector at the unit anyway, wouldnt need a harness. really doesnt matter though since im not putting down another 600 for tuning at this point

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

@ 600 for tuning.

sunstream453

yeah, aka the price of a used utec installed and tuned by me....

ultraviolet

I am a noobie and need help!!

I love my 2000 Maxima GLE!!! 75K miles!! Actually, no REAL problems with it, but now, I have a question........

The brake light and battery light both came on yesterday, at the same time. Neither the brakes or the battery seem to have a problem....all electrical systems are working, and the emergency brake is fine, as well as the regular brakes. What does this mean? No other dashboard warning lights are on.

The engine was making a "whining" noise for a bit of time, constantly, but then stopped. I had about a 200 mile road trip and the engine was fine the entire time.

It was parked in the garage after this trip, and not driven for a couple days, then it was driven to work (5 minutes) and home on Monday, and while driving home, these lights came on, after a stop at a stop sign.

It is just fuses? Or, something worse?

sunstream453

could be your alternator

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You made it sound like that's what a shop was charging you. If you find any cheaper means of tuning (hardware/software + dyno time for less than 0.6K$) let us know.

Now I see why you wont do headers
Alternator just died. Get it fixed ASAP before your battery dies.

ultraviolet

Will do!!! Thanks!! Making appointment now!