5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
06-05-2009, 10:07 PM
#8641
The two on the side came off without a fight, but the one directly on the IACV seems to be too close to a metal connection that holds two random hoses. On which side is the clip (if I understand correctly it is on the side parallel to the left wheel)? could you please take a look at the attached instructions and see if maybe the order is incorrect, and also, how do you take the air hoses off?
Again, what do you mean how do you take them off? If there's a clamp, remove it. Then pull it off
If you can't get the IACV connector off, just wait until you've pulled the TB off of the UIM, then you'll have easier access.
06-05-2009, 10:10 PM
#8642
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 9
06-05-2009, 10:13 PM
#8643
These instructions:
http://www.freeengineinfo.com/idle-a...eplacement.htm
http://www.freeengineinfo.com/idle-a...eplacement.htm
As they (explicitly) say, remove the TB first, then disconnect the electrical. Makes it easier.
What exactly is the issue?
06-06-2009, 06:03 AM
#8644
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
06-06-2009, 09:55 AM
#8646
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas USA
Posts: 4
HELP, Greetings everyone, please excuse me if this is in the wrong place to post this as I am new to blogs and do hot have this figured out just yet.
I have a 03 Maxima, I have been to 2 dealers and neither could repair my car. This is the problem, the car will start and idle fine, you can push the throttle to the floor and 1400 RPMs is as fast as she will run, also the check engine light is on. At the dealer they can re-set the computer and it will respond normally until you get the check engine light, then its 1400 RPM max again the next time you start it. The first time it did this the dealer replaced the throttle body, reset the code and everything was fine for a couple of days, now after reset within a couple of minutes the check engine light comes on and throttle response works fine until you kill the engine, then its 1400 RPM s again until the dealer rests it. For additional details the first dealer replaced the throttle body, worked fine for a couple of days, the second dealer just spent hours trouble shooting and said that we had low voltage to the throttle body (4.2 volts to the throttle body at idle and not 5 volts) the only code it would produce was throttle control circuit and that was it. He told me he thought the problem was the complete engine compartment wiring harness needed replaced but did not know for sure. It was the only thing he could think of that could cause th voltage drop but I dont agree as it would send the 15 volts at wide open throttle then surely it could carry 5 volts as it was suppose to. If anyone can help please drop me an email at mackgarrett@gmail.com, if you like I can call you also. Any ideas on a fix for this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again, Mack
PS I apologize for having to leave my email address but I dont have the bloging thing figured out and am not sure I could find the reply's yet, if anyone replys please email me a link to the reply.
I have a 03 Maxima, I have been to 2 dealers and neither could repair my car. This is the problem, the car will start and idle fine, you can push the throttle to the floor and 1400 RPMs is as fast as she will run, also the check engine light is on. At the dealer they can re-set the computer and it will respond normally until you get the check engine light, then its 1400 RPM max again the next time you start it. The first time it did this the dealer replaced the throttle body, reset the code and everything was fine for a couple of days, now after reset within a couple of minutes the check engine light comes on and throttle response works fine until you kill the engine, then its 1400 RPM s again until the dealer rests it. For additional details the first dealer replaced the throttle body, worked fine for a couple of days, the second dealer just spent hours trouble shooting and said that we had low voltage to the throttle body (4.2 volts to the throttle body at idle and not 5 volts) the only code it would produce was throttle control circuit and that was it. He told me he thought the problem was the complete engine compartment wiring harness needed replaced but did not know for sure. It was the only thing he could think of that could cause th voltage drop but I dont agree as it would send the 15 volts at wide open throttle then surely it could carry 5 volts as it was suppose to. If anyone can help please drop me an email at mackgarrett@gmail.com, if you like I can call you also. Any ideas on a fix for this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again, Mack
PS I apologize for having to leave my email address but I dont have the bloging thing figured out and am not sure I could find the reply's yet, if anyone replys please email me a link to the reply.
06-06-2009, 11:40 AM
#8647
HELP, Greetings everyone, please excuse me if this is in the wrong place to post this as I am new to blogs and do hot have this figured out just yet.
I have a 03 Maxima, I have been to 2 dealers and neither could repair my car. This is the problem, the car will start and idle fine, you can push the throttle to the floor and 1400 RPMs is as fast as she will run, also the check engine light is on. At the dealer they can re-set the computer and it will respond normally until you get the check engine light, then its 1400 RPM max again the next time you start it. The first time it did this the dealer replaced the throttle body, reset the code and everything was fine for a couple of days, now after reset within a couple of minutes the check engine light comes on and throttle response works fine until you kill the engine, then its 1400 RPM s again until the dealer rests it. For additional details the first dealer replaced the throttle body, worked fine for a couple of days, the second dealer just spent hours trouble shooting and said that we had low voltage to the throttle body (4.2 volts to the throttle body at idle and not 5 volts) the only code it would produce was throttle control circuit and that was it. He told me he thought the problem was the complete engine compartment wiring harness needed replaced but did not know for sure. It was the only thing he could think of that could cause th voltage drop but I dont agree as it would send the 15 volts at wide open throttle then surely it could carry 5 volts as it was suppose to. If anyone can help please drop me an email at mackgarrett@gmail.com, if you like I can call you also. Any ideas on a fix for this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again, Mack
PS I apologize for having to leave my email address but I dont have the bloging thing figured out and am not sure I could find the reply's yet, if anyone replys please email me a link to the reply.
I have a 03 Maxima, I have been to 2 dealers and neither could repair my car. This is the problem, the car will start and idle fine, you can push the throttle to the floor and 1400 RPMs is as fast as she will run, also the check engine light is on. At the dealer they can re-set the computer and it will respond normally until you get the check engine light, then its 1400 RPM max again the next time you start it. The first time it did this the dealer replaced the throttle body, reset the code and everything was fine for a couple of days, now after reset within a couple of minutes the check engine light comes on and throttle response works fine until you kill the engine, then its 1400 RPM s again until the dealer rests it. For additional details the first dealer replaced the throttle body, worked fine for a couple of days, the second dealer just spent hours trouble shooting and said that we had low voltage to the throttle body (4.2 volts to the throttle body at idle and not 5 volts) the only code it would produce was throttle control circuit and that was it. He told me he thought the problem was the complete engine compartment wiring harness needed replaced but did not know for sure. It was the only thing he could think of that could cause th voltage drop but I dont agree as it would send the 15 volts at wide open throttle then surely it could carry 5 volts as it was suppose to. If anyone can help please drop me an email at mackgarrett@gmail.com, if you like I can call you also. Any ideas on a fix for this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again, Mack
PS I apologize for having to leave my email address but I dont have the bloging thing figured out and am not sure I could find the reply's yet, if anyone replys please email me a link to the reply.
Guessing is the last resort not the first thing a mechanic should do especially a Nissan mechanic who should be very familiar with the car. At first glance this situation sounds a little odd. I think one or both of the dealership's service managers or shop foremen should be providing their mechanics a little more help/direction if the mechanic is guessing after one repair attempt.
06-06-2009, 01:41 PM
#8648
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 9
The instructions look perfectly fine to me...
As they (explicitly) say, remove the TB first, then disconnect the electrical. Makes it easier.
What exactly is the issue?
As they (explicitly) say, remove the TB first, then disconnect the electrical. Makes it easier.
What exactly is the issue?
06-06-2009, 01:42 PM
#8649
06-06-2009, 02:00 PM
#8650
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 9
06-06-2009, 02:04 PM
#8651
Again, have you removed the TB from the UIM? It gives you a much better angle.
Failing that, have you not tried using a pair of pliers or similar to depress the locking tab?
06-06-2009, 04:50 PM
#8652
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 9
I finally managed to replace the IACV and had my ecu repaired after my car would immediately stall. Now the idle changes from 1500 to 3000 rpm, I am wondering if an Idle relearn is necessary. I am a bit confused about one of the steps though, should I disconnect the top brown harness or the bottom brown harness? Thanks
06-06-2009, 04:59 PM
#8653
I finally managed to replace the IACV and had my ecu repaired after my car would immediately stall. Now the idle changes from 1500 to 3000 rpm, I am wondering if an Idle relearn is necessary. I am a bit confused about one of the steps though, should I disconnect the top brown harness or the bottom brown harness? Thanks
Which other brown connector are you seeing?
06-06-2009, 05:03 PM
#8654
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 9
Sorry, you are right, the bottom one is grey. When I disconnect the top one, the engine goes to redline, I wait 5 seconds during which it stays on redline and then plug it back in, once plugged in it returns to the same cycle of 1500 to 3000 as before. I guess its dealer time? I am worried that they'll claim that the rebuilt ECU is the issue (which it very well could be). Any other suggestions?
06-06-2009, 06:37 PM
#8655
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas USA
Posts: 4
What were the actual codes the mechanic found when he scanned the car? The codes can in most cases tell you specifically what the cause of the problem(s), especially if you're familiar with Maximas. They should be on the repair order you received form the cashier. Example of a code is P1320 or P0400.
Guessing is the last resort not the first thing a mechanic should do especially a Nissan mechanic who should be very familiar with the car. At first glance this situation sounds a little odd. I think one or both of the dealership's service managers or shop foremen should be providing their mechanics a little more help/direction if the mechanic is guessing after one repair attempt.
Guessing is the last resort not the first thing a mechanic should do especially a Nissan mechanic who should be very familiar with the car. At first glance this situation sounds a little odd. I think one or both of the dealership's service managers or shop foremen should be providing their mechanics a little more help/direction if the mechanic is guessing after one repair attempt.
.
06-06-2009, 06:52 PM
#8656
Concerning the TB, TPS, APPS, etc are P0122, P0123, P0222, P0223, P1121, P1122, P1124, P1126, P1128, P1225, P1226, P2122, P2123, P2127, P2128, P2135, or P2138.
As you can see, 17 different codes and as many different issues can cause them.
Did he clear the codes? If not, you should retrieve the code and post it up, otherwise as you see, diagnosis could take a while.
So it will not rise above 1400 RPM, regardless of throttle position, gear selection, etc?
The only code I see that shows any specific RPM cutoff is P1121, which says the TB itself is bad (or more accurately, the return spring for the throttle valve). That limits to around 2000 RPM, though.
Though if they've already replaced the TB, did they do the IAVL and throttle position learning?
06-06-2009, 09:13 PM
#8657
I'd like to help but as pmohr has shown you there are lots of codes that you could guess at making diagnosis virtually impossible. If you had the codes you could also do a search on this site to see if anyone else has experienced this same problem. You can search without the code(s) but again it would help if you had them.
06-07-2009, 08:01 AM
#8658
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7
02 Check Engine Light Problem
I have posted before and haven't gotten any help, but I was told to search and I have searched throughout this site and have found nothing that relates to my check engine code P0011. When I went to Autozone the OBD2 scanner told me something about the camshaft actuator sensor(s) were bad. It also said something about the timing being over advanced?? Can someone please help me figure out what to do?
06-07-2009, 08:06 AM
#8659
I have posted before and haven't gotten any help, but I was told to search and I have searched throughout this site and have found nothing that relates to my check engine code P0011. When I went to Autozone the OBD2 scanner told me something about the camshaft actuator sensor(s) were bad. It also said something about the timing being over advanced?? Can someone please help me figure out what to do?
If you can't even read the response you got the last time you asked this question (and the time before that), then you obviously don't want our help.
Last edited by pmohr; 06-07-2009 at 08:13 AM.
06-07-2009, 08:08 AM
#8660
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
If there is an Autozone in your area, you can get the codes pulled for free; they can still be pending. Like previous posters said, it helps a lot if you had the actual codes along with the symptons you are experiencing with your car.
06-07-2009, 10:20 AM
#8661
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas USA
Posts: 4
What were the actual codes the mechanic found when he scanned the car? The codes can in most cases tell you specifically what the cause of the problem(s), especially if you're familiar with Maximas. They should be on the repair order you received form the cashier. Example of a code is P1320 or P0400.
Guessing is the last resort not the first thing a mechanic should do especially a Nissan mechanic who should be very familiar with the car. At first glance this situation sounds a little odd. I think one or both of the dealership's service managers or shop foremen should be providing their mechanics a little more help/direction if the mechanic is guessing after one repair attempt.
Guessing is the last resort not the first thing a mechanic should do especially a Nissan mechanic who should be very familiar with the car. At first glance this situation sounds a little odd. I think one or both of the dealership's service managers or shop foremen should be providing their mechanics a little more help/direction if the mechanic is guessing after one repair attempt.
06-07-2009, 12:33 PM
#8662
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
RE: Is my car haunted
I have a 2003 SE. For the past week or so I go out to the car and find the front windows down varying amounts. It is parked in the garage. I looked to see if the windows can be put down or up using the keyless entry, but it appears they cannot be. This also seems to happen in the middle of the night. I have gone out to the garage at 2 AM and they are up, but in the morning they will be down. Is there a logical explanation for this?
I tried setting the passenger window lockout to the locked position, but it did not prevent it.
Since my original post, I have still had this issue. It does not happen everyday though. Also, my battery developed a bad cell, so I thought that may have had something to do with it. However, I have found them down in the morning since getting the battery replaced. Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
06-07-2009, 05:52 PM
#8665
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 24
06-07-2009, 05:58 PM
#8666
Good luck with the ECU restricting the throttle, considering the 4th and 5th gens are not drive by wire...
06-07-2009, 07:46 PM
#8667
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1
Radio/antenna issue
Newbie here. I've been reading this site for awhile now and have some ideas as to what may be the issue but would like advice on the best approach. I have a 2k Maxima GXE. I love the car. It drives great. The only issues I ever have with it tend to be electrical though.
Right now my issue is that I do not get any reception on FM or AM with my radio. It is the stock radio (not BOSE) that came with the car. The only add on was a 10-disc changer that is in the trunk with a separate wired remote that I control at the base of the shifter (it was supposed to be 6 changer, but they gave me a 10).
I have no tint on the rear windshield. No work has been done on my car. Over time the wiring on the remote with the CD started to go causing it to cut in and out. A couple of years ago, I lost the CD connection completely. Now I've lost all reception to FM and AM except for one FM station which is faded but can be heard depending on where the car is located.
I've never taken the radio out so I don't expect it to be a connection in the back, but who knows. The last electrical issue I had was with the passenger side mirror not moving with the auto switch since something in the dash kept breaking whatever item the dealer kept fixing. Of course the dealer discovers this after the warranty was up and after fixing the mirror 4 times in about a year and a half, but that's a whole other thread.
What I'm looking for is what do you think is the issue with the reception? Is the radio itself shot, or the antenna? Does it sound like a bad connection with the antenna, or perhaps the antenna is broken? If I'm going to figure it out on my own, what do you think I should do first? I checked the fuses (except I'm unsure of which one is for the antenna.) Should I pull the radio out? What's the best way to check if the antenna is busted? Anyone else have this issue with the stock radio?
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
Right now my issue is that I do not get any reception on FM or AM with my radio. It is the stock radio (not BOSE) that came with the car. The only add on was a 10-disc changer that is in the trunk with a separate wired remote that I control at the base of the shifter (it was supposed to be 6 changer, but they gave me a 10).
I have no tint on the rear windshield. No work has been done on my car. Over time the wiring on the remote with the CD started to go causing it to cut in and out. A couple of years ago, I lost the CD connection completely. Now I've lost all reception to FM and AM except for one FM station which is faded but can be heard depending on where the car is located.
I've never taken the radio out so I don't expect it to be a connection in the back, but who knows. The last electrical issue I had was with the passenger side mirror not moving with the auto switch since something in the dash kept breaking whatever item the dealer kept fixing. Of course the dealer discovers this after the warranty was up and after fixing the mirror 4 times in about a year and a half, but that's a whole other thread.
What I'm looking for is what do you think is the issue with the reception? Is the radio itself shot, or the antenna? Does it sound like a bad connection with the antenna, or perhaps the antenna is broken? If I'm going to figure it out on my own, what do you think I should do first? I checked the fuses (except I'm unsure of which one is for the antenna.) Should I pull the radio out? What's the best way to check if the antenna is busted? Anyone else have this issue with the stock radio?
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
06-07-2009, 07:49 PM
#8668
Newbie here. I've been reading this site for awhile now and have some ideas as to what may be the issue but would like advice on the best approach. I have a 2k Maxima GXE. I love the car. It drives great. The only issues I ever have with it tend to be electrical though.
Right now my issue is that I do not get any reception on FM or AM with my radio. It is the stock radio (not BOSE) that came with the car. The only add on was a 10-disc changer that is in the trunk with a separate wired remote that I control at the base of the shifter (it was supposed to be 6 changer, but they gave me a 10).
I have no tint on the rear windshield. No work has been done on my car. Over time the wiring on the remote with the CD started to go causing it to cut in and out. A couple of years ago, I lost the CD connection completely. Now I've lost all reception to FM and AM except for one FM station which is faded but can be heard depending on where the car is located.
I've never taken the radio out so I don't expect it to be a connection in the back, but who knows. The last electrical issue I had was with the passenger side mirror not moving with the auto switch since something in the dash kept breaking whatever item the dealer kept fixing. Of course the dealer discovers this after the warranty was up and after fixing the mirror 4 times in about a year and a half, but that's a whole other thread.
What I'm looking for is what do you think is the issue with the reception? Is the radio itself shot, or the antenna? Does it sound like a bad connection with the antenna, or perhaps the antenna is broken? If I'm going to figure it out on my own, what do you think I should do first? I checked the fuses (except I'm unsure of which one is for the antenna.) Should I pull the radio out? What's the best way to check if the antenna is busted? Anyone else have this issue with the stock radio?
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
Right now my issue is that I do not get any reception on FM or AM with my radio. It is the stock radio (not BOSE) that came with the car. The only add on was a 10-disc changer that is in the trunk with a separate wired remote that I control at the base of the shifter (it was supposed to be 6 changer, but they gave me a 10).
I have no tint on the rear windshield. No work has been done on my car. Over time the wiring on the remote with the CD started to go causing it to cut in and out. A couple of years ago, I lost the CD connection completely. Now I've lost all reception to FM and AM except for one FM station which is faded but can be heard depending on where the car is located.
I've never taken the radio out so I don't expect it to be a connection in the back, but who knows. The last electrical issue I had was with the passenger side mirror not moving with the auto switch since something in the dash kept breaking whatever item the dealer kept fixing. Of course the dealer discovers this after the warranty was up and after fixing the mirror 4 times in about a year and a half, but that's a whole other thread.
What I'm looking for is what do you think is the issue with the reception? Is the radio itself shot, or the antenna? Does it sound like a bad connection with the antenna, or perhaps the antenna is broken? If I'm going to figure it out on my own, what do you think I should do first? I checked the fuses (except I'm unsure of which one is for the antenna.) Should I pull the radio out? What's the best way to check if the antenna is busted? Anyone else have this issue with the stock radio?
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
06-08-2009, 02:44 AM
#8672
06-08-2009, 01:13 PM
#8674
Okay I have a question for the experienced maxima owners:
What is the best setup for cold air in the 5.5? I have done some research and I see it is done many ways and Im not too sure what I should do..
I've seen the long pipe down to the grill (involves rotating or moving battery to trunk)
I have also seen ones with a short pipe and the battery still in it's original position.
What have you guys done, which is easier/better performance? I think I would prefer to do the long pipe down to the grille but I dont know how to reposition the battery...
Help?
What is the best setup for cold air in the 5.5? I have done some research and I see it is done many ways and Im not too sure what I should do..
I've seen the long pipe down to the grill (involves rotating or moving battery to trunk)
I have also seen ones with a short pipe and the battery still in it's original position.
What have you guys done, which is easier/better performance? I think I would prefer to do the long pipe down to the grille but I dont know how to reposition the battery...
Help?
06-08-2009, 01:54 PM
#8675
Anybody have custom mirrors? I am looking at led ones and I dont understand the different types since they are universal fit...
What is the difference between:
3EW Power Mirrors - M3M-G2-3EW-LED-BL
4AW Power Mirrors - M3M-G2-4AW-LED-BL
what is 3ew and 4aw??
What is the difference between:
3EW Power Mirrors - M3M-G2-3EW-LED-BL
4AW Power Mirrors - M3M-G2-4AW-LED-BL
what is 3ew and 4aw??
06-09-2009, 09:08 AM
#8676
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Spokane
Posts: 1
I have a 2000 Maxima that is throwing PO171 / PO174 codes. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and tested the voltage which were within the correct range since it seems the MAF is the typical cause of the problem. Another symptom is the light tends to come on when the gas tank is around half full or less. Is there a problem that would correlate a low tank and these codes? Any help would be appreciated.
06-09-2009, 05:56 PM
#8680