Koby

Thanks for your reply AbSoLooT !

I have paid for the car but put a hold on a $2k check till all is resolved.
I feel I should just go get my $$ back!
I only took this car as the 2003 Altima I was looking at had an exhaust problem and I needed a car fast. I rented a car for 2 weeks already!


The coolant lines are rusted and I think this is a common problem here in the North East.
The rear caliper is not frozen but the cable is I had to un hook it.
I want at least those things fixed with stock parts by them. I could put a hose on but its just a band aid and I'll end up on the side of the road.

The tires look fair from the side but the middle is worn to the wear bars!
I think thats a no-no as they inspected the car. I should call the state to report them for passing a car with tires like that. The dealer said he will put on tires at their cost for me.

The windows switches work, they just dont go "AUTO" down. My Dodge had a way to re-set that option.

Ebay for the Alarm/key fob - but how about another key? Is this a dealer only item?

AbSoLooT

As for this question, I was removing my front outlet, and like a smart guy touched both sides with my flathead. haha.... Sooner, or anouther person who has replaced one.

you know which fuse controls the 12 outlets? location? (preferable the front)

fflint_18

VQP0WER

Welcome Bert!

Koby

Hey Bert! Welcome from another new guy!
How much did you pay for the car?

maximadave

iTrader: (10)

Welcome to the org Bert

emBLAZE

Which warpspeed did you have, the aluminized or the stainless steel one? I need to figure out if the aluminized one they sell for $200 is good enough or if it is junk in comparison to the wider, stainless model.

Thanks in advance. Ordered my intake.

VQP0WER

It's not junk, but if you live in the north where they use alot of road salt, it "may" corrode faster then the SS. If you got the extra $50, get the SS.

BP22

Hello All,

I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima with 116,000 miles on it. No CEL, no codes, no nothing. Recently, as I'm crusing around 40-50 mph, and RPM's will shoot up to about 3000-3500 rpms and stick for a couple of second and it will release itself and the RPM's go back down. I don't have to stop or anything, just fixes itself. After it happens, that's it for that day. It's happening about every day, sometimes the RPMs will up and immediately go back down. I been reading alot about this and I'm wondering if it be the MAF or if it is a transmission issue.

Thank you all for the help,

euclid

Please let me introduce myself. I just purchased an 01 Black AE 114K miles that needs a clutch. Bought it sight unseen (except for lots of pictures) after a good friend test drove it for me. I probably paid a little too much, but I really wanted an AE or a 6 speed w/LSD and I was anxious to make a buy. The car fax shows good, and matched the story the car dealer told. Anyway, it will be here in Jackson, MS on Sunday afternoon.



I've found the forums very helpfull so far, except for the bad links in the FAQ (damn hackers). Having the resource of a good forum is top on my list of things to check before I buy a car. This one is great. Thanks to mods and old time members for your hard work.

Looking forward to my new ride. Should be a big change from my 4 cyl camry.

A few more:






Greg Thompson
Jackson, MS

VQP0WER

A set of Eibach springs and some tire shine will make her look good. Welcome to the forums!

sMaz

hey new to the forum, and have a quick question. just got the max (2000 se 5mt) a couple of weeks ago for my second car (big step up from a 97 corolla 5mt haha) and it sounds like a fart can . i love the car and the vq power-ness, and the sport sedan looks that can rip ur face off at WOT; but im 18 now and i hate being looked at as a ricer. the guy who i bought it off of said it has an aftermarket cattman y-pipe and the resonator had a crack in it so he had a pipe welded in its place? the exhaust is stock. kinda sounds like the bees in a can typa sound. what can i do to get rid of this? ill post up a sound clip as soon as i can.

oh and it has a AEM short ram CAi as well.

heres a horrible clip, u can kinda hear it at the end.

http://s551.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=HPIM0066.flv

arkmaxi02

I've had my 2002 Maxima SE for three weeks now, and so far love it. I am having a couple of issues that I'd see if anyone has experienced.

My husband and I were driving back from Texas over the Christmas holidays and about 3.5 hours into our drive, the throttle gave out. He had the cruise control on and after someone cut him off, he hit the brakes, and then went to accelerate, but there was nothing there - the gas pedal went straight to the floor. After about 15 seconds, it reingaged. This happened 3 more times in the same trip, even with the cruise off. The last time it happened, he let it die down to 2000 RPM and it reingaged by itself. Has anyone heard of this happening and what might cause it?

The other issue I'm having, which could be related to the prior one, is that around 2000 RPM, the car seems to get stuck, like it's ready to change gears but it takes a little longer, and then throws you back. This also sometimes happens at 3000 RPM if I'm really getting on it to accelerate quickly.

I must say that I am not mechanically inclined, so I may have to refer to my husband for any questions. It is an automatic and I have not experienced the throttle giving out since that one day. We have not changed any fluids on it, and it only has 40,000 miles on it.

Thanks for the help!!
ArkMaxi02

emBLAZE

IIRC that sounds like it could be related to the MAF which is a very easy fix, your car's not throwing up any codes?

Some vets here will be able to provide better insight.

VQP0WER

Doesn't sound like a MAF too me. Sounds more like a throttle position sensor or tranny solenoid.

perakka

Hello everyone,
I am new here and cannot any details on the inside panels. I have a 2001 Maxima and I am planning to put a remote starter in it. I got the wiring diagrams, but don't know how I can get the inside panels out safely. Sorry if this is a repeat.

Regards,
George

dcnded

iTrader: (2)

just a ? about the upgrade/replacement. in the "sticky" it decribes in detail how to do this and the differences. But 1 item i didn't see mentioned was the electrical plugs. now maybe they werent becuase they are the same, but i am faced with doing my alternator 2morrow and and hoping to save some money by doing this, and want t o make 1 trip to the parts store.
so in conclusion being that the I30 alternator is out of a "'96" are they coneections the same?

che_beaver

Agreed. MAF will cause the lack of shifting, but that is normally under load at high RPMs. The fact that it throws you back after it shifts, to me, is not typical of a MAF failure.

Unless.... when you say "the gas pedal went straight to the floor" do you mean there was no spring resistance to pushing it or do you mean you pushed it to the floor and there was minimal power and acceleration? If it is the latter than it is probably the MAF.

To test it get on the highway and get to about 50 MPH. Floor it and if the RPMs jump up (to ~4,000 RPM), but there is no sudden acceleration and/or it does not shift then it is probably your MAF (other possibilities are plugged catalytic converter, clogged fuel filter, or weak fuel pump but those are all unlikely at only 40,000 miles).

If when you floor it the car accelerates strongly then your MAF is probably okay.

Hope that helps.

2000max_kendall

hey guys i just got into an accident yesterday, i got hit by the rear end and i hit another car in front of me. the damage to both of my bumper were almost not noticeable even though the car behind me hit me while going 35. my problem is the engine and tranny,its and automatic, now the car vibrates when im either parked or have the car on Drive or reverse. and also when i step on the gas and it gets past 4000 rpms it makes a weird noise after i let go of the gas and as the rpms go down. im thinking my transmission got messed up cause my shifts slip on 2,3,4, and sometimes im driving and it just goes into neutral while im on drive. im not sure if the crash messed up my transmission or something but please if you have seen anyting similar to this and know what to do ill apreciate it if you help. thanks

che_beaver

Automatics have electric motor mounts and when they go bad they make a buzzing noise. Not sure how an accident could cause them to fail, but excessive vibration and buzzing noises are symptoms of a failed mount.

You can check by leaving the car in park, goosing the engine to ~3,000 RPM and then back off to idle. If you here a buzzing/whirring after the engine revs down you have a failed mount (it sounds like a power antennae that is stuck). It also happens after you turn off the car (usually).

The more I think about this it probably has nothing to do with the mounts, though.

2000max_kendall

thanks for the help. well yes i tried what you said about reving to 3000 rpms while parked and yes your absolutely right the car vibrates the most while im at around 1700 rpms, but im not sure if im hearing the right noise, its hard to explains how the sound goes so im kinda stuck with that, but this sound goes with the flow of the rpms only after shifting to a higher gear. example. i hit the gas and before i get to 6000 i let go of the gas half way and it shifts to second and while the rpms go down to like 2000 the noise follows the rpms rythm untill it shifts but the noise decreasing as the rpms.Well about may tranny slipping gears... im not sure if the other drivers insurance is going to cover it. thanks for the help im going to do some research on my motor mounts or take it to a mechanic to see what he thinks. even though im better off in the forums lol before getting ripped off. thanks

che_beaver

If the sound changes with the RPMs of the engine it isn't the motor mounts (at least I don't think it is). There is a TSB for the mounts here: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-010.pdf

Do you get the sound if you are in neutral and you are revving the engine or is it only while it is moving? If the sound changes with RPM when the car is in neutral, then I would think it has a component tied to the engine.

Sorry, not much help.

2000max_kendall

yes youve been really helpful che_beaver i apreciate it. well yes i just tried reving the engine while in neutral and the sound kicks in just like when im on parking. and the vibration is mostly felt when im on either drive or reverse. its just so confusing... i can barely think of anyting that can cause this problem.

Psiren

Im trying to install my new Pioneer HU and I'm doing the wiring the hard way. Im using these PinOuts(http://www.moodym.com/maxima/audio/m...s/5th-gen.html) to match up to the new wires...PU would be 12V+ ignition wire correct?

Problem is I can't even get the HU to power on...I'm not even bothering with hooking up all the speakers yet, jus the neccessary wires to power it. I dont have an adapter to convert the antennae yet either but I'm not too concerned with that at the moment.

Also since I've unhooked my old base unit my blinkers dont work. I've checked most fuses and nothing is blown. At this point I'm not exactly sure where to go from here.

arkmaxi02

When the gas pedal went straight to the floor, there was no acceleration and no resistance. I am also wondering if any of the suggestions all of you have offered could affect my gas mileage. I know that this V6 is not going to get me what my 4-cylinder manual Civic did, but I'm only getting 22 city and 23.5 hwy.

I do appreciate everyone's help!

drumfiend

Hello all!

Yes, I too am new.

I've got a 2000 AT Maxima ~ 100k miles, & I've noticed lately that when I am ~2500 RPM's & almost always at 45-50 mph ...not accelerating, just cruisin', the engine/transmission (not sure which) starts to kick & lunge. It only does it when I allow it to drop into Overdrive. I was thinking that it could be the transmission fluid being too high, but wouldn't that also affect shifting from the other gears?

I've recently cleaned the MAF & cleared the fuel injectors. Cleaning the MAF helped the performance of the engine, (not sure about all the talk of performing the Idle Relearn or resetting the cpu - I read that keeping the battery disconnected for 30 mins is all the reset you really need, but I digress). I don't have a diagnostic machine of my own, but I can get a buddy to ride around w/ me & when it happens, & hopefully it throws a code.

I've had a Service Engine Soon light on for months & every time I have it checked, it rarely turns anything up. Cleaning the MAF turned it off for a bit tho...

A few months back however, I got the SES light really intermittantly. So, I had it checked out w/ a diagnostic cpu & found that 2 of the O2 sensors were running rich. I read a post earlier that stated rich O2's can lead to a clogged Catalytic Converter, but what would the other symptoms of that be?

Could a cracked exhaust pipe by the muffler be the culprit?
Replacing the whole line would be pretty expensive & I'm hoping I can just live w/ it. But I'm really concerned about the knocking & lunging. I'm really not sure what else to call it, but Imagine a tooth in a gear missing.. it's kinda like that would be, but I'm pretty sure the overdrive gear's got all its teeth otherwise, I'd have trouble at other speeds in Overdrive, right? Every time it happens, I just let off the gas or push past whatever speed it's at & it stops.

I'd like to learn as much stuff about this as possible, but w/ the problem being what it is, I wouldn't be surprised if it could be any number of things.

Any help would be appreciated!

-Joe

drumfiend

I took it in to Autozone last night & had a diagnostic ran on it. It threw a code of P1126: Throttle contyrol motor relay open. Probable causes: Open or short circuit condition; Throttle control motor relay circuit open; Failed Relay.
So... not liking my options there. Anyone ever dealt w/ this before?

VQP0WER

No.

GigEmAgs07

i'm guessing i'll be okay doing this, but can i put HID's in the fogs SAFELY if i have done the foglight rewire mod? I realize the HID's will use less wattage, but i just don't wanna do anything dumb.

tia.

i1k

iTrader: (1)

P1126 is a thermostat trouble code. The code is generally thrown becuase the engine coolant temperature has not risen enough to open the thermostat even though the engine has run long enough. This is due to a leak in the seal or the thermostat open stuck. The malfunction is detected when the engine coolant temperature does not reach to specified temperature even though the engine has run long enough.


Possible cause(s): Thermostat malfunction; Leakage from sealing portion of thermostat; Engine coolant temperature sensor.

i1k

iTrader: (1)

Put the resonator back on.

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

service history as far as spark plugs? Even with actual MAF cleaner I still had to eventually just buy a MAF because code kept coming back.Get the O2's changed out if thats what needs to be replaced.

maximizeme

I have a silver 2003 Maxima. Where can I find the paint code to match the color of the car? Thanx in advance.

i1k

iTrader: (1)

Look for the sticker in the driver side door jamb. Towards the bottom of the sticker is the 3 character paint code (above where it says "COLOR").

Also, the firewall plate (standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay, the plate is generally located towards the top center of the firewall ). There should be a stand-alone 3 character code in the center of the firewall plate.

AX5 2001 - 2003 Maxima - Merlot
BW9 2001 - 2003 Maxima - Majestic Blue
BV3 2000 - 2001 Maxima - Satin Blue Pearl
CP2 1999 - 2000 Maxima - Mahogany Pearl
DR2 2000 - 2001 Maxima - Sherwood Green
EV0 1999 - 2003 Maxima - Sunlit Sand
FX0 2002 Maxima - Tungsten Blue
KH3 1998 - 2003 Maxima - Super Black
KT3 1998 - 2003 Maxima - Sterling Mist
KV3 2000 - 2003 Maxima - Gray Lustre
KY0 2003 Maxima - Sheer Silver
QT1 1999 - 2001 Maxima - Icelandic Pearl
QX1 2002 - 2003 Maxima - Glacier Pearl
WV2 2002 - 2003 Maxima - Polished Titanium

BigOgre

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering if the stock alarm on an 01AE Maxima has the window roll down feature.

Thanks :-)

ksd35

iTrader: (2)

I have a 2k2 and I have this problem with the driver side power window. When I use the auto feature to put the window up automatically it goes all the way up and then goes down about 2 inches. I can put it all the way up with the switch as long as I don't activate the auto function. Is it a problem with the motor or the switch; any help with this would be great

Nelsito65

Take a look at this thread. There is a procedure that applies to the driver side window:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...up-window.html

ksd35

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot

06dc5

My first question is,Do 2002-2003 SE trim models
come in only 6sp because i am actually going to
pick-up a blue this weekend but the listing is saying
it's a 5sp and i know thats not right. I need a daily
driver cause i just turbo'd my rsx type-s.

2nd question is, what is a good on-line site to go to
find aftermarket parts like,intake,headers,exhaust,drop
springs,sway and strut bars.

thanx 4 the input.

lenny6224

i have a 03 6sp max. every once and a while when i go to start the car from sitting for over 6+ hours i get a rough idle. now it will do that for a min or two or until the temp needle moves up a little then smooth out and ride fine the whole day and it does not happen often. i replaced the plugs and i have no codes. anyone have suggestions please feel free. thanks for your time