Col Ronson

The battery doesn't have enough charge to start the car. usually batteries in the store aren't fully charge. jump start your car, and your battery should be good to go.

DennyLWheeler

I was hoping that was the case but I tried and it would not start even with a jump. Same issue, no clicking, etc. Now there does at least seem to be a click, just a single click when I turn the key.

nos879

1. Is there a way I can tighten the steering and/or suspension without spending very little money?

2. And recently I was lightly hit by a taxi and have a light dent 2 inches under the gas cap. Is there a way I can replace it for cheap? Like a junk yard, since I have to order it then make it my car color, pewter.

netstorm64

The noise is coming from the front driver side area of the car. I don't hear it behind me. It doesn't seem like it's coming directly from the engine either, because my car also makes the noise before starting the engine. I'm not really sure how to check the vacuum lines.

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

try lifting up the drivers side, take off the wheel and get under there and see if you can pin point were the sound is coming from, the vacuum lines are all the little black hose around your intake manifold to put it simply try looking around at them if any of them are broken. If you know were the starter is have someone power up the car and see if the noise is coming from that area, its basically right under your intake tubing, towards the firewall a bit

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

Could be a dead starter, try taping it with a pipe see if it makes a sound, also check your fuses

pepox369

hey guys,

its me again. it seems like my maxima is getting mad at me.. now my brake lights stay on at all times.. i read a little bit here and it says that it can be a fuse or the brake light switch. my questions are: what would the fuse for the brake light be named? STOP L? and where is the brake switch on my max? i heard somewhere in the steering column but on the inside of the car right?

thanks in advance.

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

-for the brake switch, i have no idea. but as for the fuses, just pull out all the fuses in the box in the driver's footwell and all the ones in the box by the battery one by one and see if they're blown. It'll take like 7 minutes.

netstorm64

Ok, thanks for your help.
Just to clarify this is the noise that my car is making. It's so damn annoying.
www.xelicon.com/noise/Memo.m4a

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

wow thats sounds like azz lol but does sound like a bad starter trying replacing it and see if that helps, if not you can always return it

Nelsito65

The brake light switch is located at the base of the brake pedal. It is held by a metal plate alongside with cruise control swtch. It is possible that it has come loose and it is causing the brake ligth to be on all the time. The picture below is a shot taken looking up from driver side floor, left side of the steering column.


The brake light switch is the one on the bottom, with the black harness going into it. The crusie control switch is the one on top, with brown harness.
At least that is the case on my 2k.

pepox369

thanks for the picture.. just got back from checking out my car and well.. no success yet.. the fuse is fine.. i checked ALL the fuses and they are fine.. i disconnected the tail lamp relay and it was still on.. the only thing that i have left is the brake switch.. i have an 01 max and i did see the brown harness didnt quite see the black one. as soon as the rain goes away i will check it out..

one question tho. do i need to remove the whole metal plate or the brake switch only? any tips on how to would be great..

THANKS!!!!

netstorm64

lol, I'm not even talking about the starter, im talking about the sheee shee shee noise before and after i start my car.

Nelsito65

If you're asking about how to replace it in case that the culprit of your problem is indeed a defective brake switch, then no, you don't need to remove the metal plate. The switch itself comes off by twisting it 45 degrees. Check the link for the thread below. There's a short How-to for that switch.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ht-switch.html

Hope that helps.

pepox369

thats a really nice write up.. great help.. thank you very much... hopefully i dont need a new brake switch!! ..

dj homeboy

How do I fix the needles on my cluster... I switched the faces on my cluster, from black to silver (or white), and I pulled off the needles in order to do this...Now my needles go back in but it doesn't feel right, they slide in and out too easily and they don't work correctly either. My rpms get stuck and dont move much. My speedometer (mph), doesnt even move at all. How do I fix this problem?

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

I turned on the AC today and noticed that when I hit the gas, the AC would blow noticeably harder than at idle. What could cause this to happen? Could a bad alt be causing this? And sometimes when I start the car, it would have a very weak crank and barely could start the car. Sometimes on the first try turning the key it wouldn't crank up so I stopped after 2-3sec. And then I try again and it would start right up. Is my starter going out too?
Note: I bought a brand new battery and have a rebuilt non-oem alternator. And recently there is a whining noise in the engine bay and I suspect it's the alt. The whine would follow the RPM though. RPM go up = louder whining noise.
Thanks!

bryan163

iTrader: (2)

Could be a bad ABS sensor on one of your wheels. A code scan will tell you for certain.

bryan163

iTrader: (2)

Starters on these cars fail frequently and do cause the symptoms you described. A vacuum leak may be the cause for your fluctuating blower. Its not that the blower is spinning any faster, just that the dampers in the air ducts are not staying where they're set because they are vacuum actuated.

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

How do one check for vacuum leak? Where to start? And is it hard to change the starter?

DennyLWheeler

Yup, it was the starter. Thanks

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

First if you think its an issue with the alt, go to autozone and let them do a charging system test. That will give you a good idea of the alt/battery.

My starter crapped out at 110k miles. It took me 4 hours to replace (from opening the car, taking the old one out, driving to the store to buy the new one and reinstall). Its not that hard, just take your time.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

You may have damaged the cluster when removing the needles. Prior to removing them, you should have marked where they go in the diagnostics mode mentioned here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...s-how-fix.html

DennyLWheeler

I have a 2000 SE. Now that it's getting colder I'm having a recurring problem. When I start the car in the morning it idles roughly and I have to sit in the car and keepthe rpms between 1,000 and 2,000 for quite a while. After the temp guage has moved a little I can sometimes let it idle by itself but even then it's rough and will nearly die before moving to the normal range. It will do this for probably 10 minutes before it starts to run smoothly. For the rest of the day it's fine, even if it sits for 8 hours or so; it's only the first start up of the day after it has sat all night. I have an intermittent check engine light, but that's been the case for over a year and this only happens when it's in the 50's at night. No problems in the summer. I replaced the MAF two years ago when I had similar problems but this time it seems a little different. Maybe not. Could it be the MAF again or something else?

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Why have you not had codes read if the check engine comes on? Some auto stores provide this service free of charge.

DennyLWheeler

Last time the check engine light came on I did have it checked and no codes showed up. I waited a few days and it went off so I got emissions done and it passed. A few days after that, it came back on. Maybe the guy doing the test didn't know what he was doing, but it came back with no codes even though the check engine light was on.

joose

i have an 02 maxima with a non working sunroof. it used to work and now its not.is there a circuit breaker or relay or fuse that could be blown? if so where would it be???
if any one knows please help me?

thx
justin

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

There are some fuses directly in front of your left knee on the driver's side. Also there is a relay box near the battery and directly across the opposite side of the battery.

imdupeng

Hello,

Does anyone know what the size of the O-ring inside the engine oil cooler is (see pic)? I need to replace that in a week. Thank you!

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

I tried search for some instructions or write up on how to install the starter and the results were very limited. A lot of dead links and stuff. I did find a write up posted by a member recently but no pictures. Anyone got a write up link with pictures perhaps?

dukster

Going to use my Newbie pass. I did search and I did read.

I have a 2001 SE Anniversary Edition.

Oddly it seems I always have some sort of emissions issue that crops up right at the same time I need an inspection.

This time, I was told the OBD Port could not be read. This is at the state inspection station who has inspected the vehicle last year. I have no CEL and the car runs great.

Anyone else have an issue like this before? Where would I look for the good old fashioned loose connection?

mitrals

iTrader: (1)

I have the P0505 code on my 2000 Maxima GLE. I changed the IACV/Throttle body to a new one from another maxima (with about 70k miles). There are no leaks and I am sure that my mechanic connected everything properly. I removed the ECM to take a look inside, but i could not see any damage to the chip inside the ECM. I installed the ECM back on car, and the check engine light was off for a few days, then it came back after 800 miles. I resetted the light and the light came back on after about 1100 miles. The car idle around 800 to 900 rpm when warm. With new IACV/throttle body and check engine light still on, is it possible that ECM still fried, even no visual damage can be seen? The car does not idle like the rest of the cases, that it does not idle at 1700 rpm, just around 800 rpm. Is it possible that i only need the IACV relearn then the check engine light will be gone? Or do i have to go ahead and replace the ECM and reprogram for the key and has the dealer do the IACV relearn at that point? The dealer can reprogram the ECM and the keys for $200 if I get them an ECM from a junk yard.Anyone has similar experience or know something about it? Any help will be apppreciated, i just hate to waste money to replace the ECM if it is good. The car does not stall or drive rough. It drives just fine. Thanks.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Did you get a charging system test done first? I'd get that checked before ripping the starter out. I used the Nissan FSM to help me replace mine. Link is in the sig.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Bad motor mounts are also associated to with that code. Try disconnecting them and seeing if the code goes away.

thahamma91

I am having a very weird problem with my heat/AC. I have finally needed to use the heat after getting my car over the summer but when I was using it last night there is a very weird vibration noise coming from inside the dashboard. I don't know if something is loose or if the fan is rubbing on something. What should I look for or is there some for of common problem with the heating of the car that was never taken car of by the previous owners.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Pull the blower motor, chances are there's just debris in there.

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

Battery is brand new and also got the alternator checked. The alt was performing at the bare minimum of the normal operating range. I think it was 13.7 or so volt.

mitrals

iTrader: (1)

How do I do that? Sorry noob here

Nelsito65

Check the link below. Almost half way through the first page there are a couple of pictures locating the plugs for the electronic motor mounts:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...or-mounts.html

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

its easy as hell to change the starter basically
remove intake
unplug starter, remove the two screws that hold starter, pull it out
reinstall new one and your done lol
the starter sits at the top of the trans basically towards the firewall a little bit