5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#7601
He said he had a "parts car"........ He took it out along with whatever else he wanted.
From what I read last night, it looks like this part has quite a history of going out. Not just on the maximas...
#7602
Noob
Hey everyone. Heres another noob. Ok, I'm a Honda guy but switched it up a little bit and just purchased me a 2000 Maxima. Anyways I know nothing about Nissan Maximas and to me, a 2000 model car is the newest I've had. Before then the newest was a 92 Honda Prelude, which is a big diff, to me. Anyhow, I noticed that the ABS light is on and stays on. It doesn't go away... Any advice on what I should check for? I already checked the fuse and it was good, so we can omit that. Thanks for any help guys!
#7603
Can the broken trunk release button inside affect the remote release function?
am i using the aftermarket fob wrong? so confused!
#7604
Hey everyone. Heres another noob. Ok, I'm a Honda guy but switched it up a little bit and just purchased me a 2000 Maxima. Anyways I know nothing about Nissan Maximas and to me, a 2000 model car is the newest I've had. Before then the newest was a 92 Honda Prelude, which is a big diff, to me. Anyhow, I noticed that the ABS light is on and stays on. It doesn't go away... Any advice on what I should check for? I already checked the fuse and it was good, so we can omit that. Thanks for any help guys!
Welcome!
#7605
PLEASE HELP
can anyone please give me a 101 on alarm systems
I have a "prestige" keyless entry remote (it only has 2 buttons). I cant get the trunk to remote open with this remote
Is it possible that the previous owner replaced the factory remote with this aftermarket remote.....would that even work?
Or do i have an aftermarket alarm system?
sorry for the newbie qs...i'm considering buying an oem keyless entry remote but im not sure if that would make a difference...please advice!
I have a "prestige" keyless entry remote (it only has 2 buttons). I cant get the trunk to remote open with this remote
Is it possible that the previous owner replaced the factory remote with this aftermarket remote.....would that even work?
Or do i have an aftermarket alarm system?
sorry for the newbie qs...i'm considering buying an oem keyless entry remote but im not sure if that would make a difference...please advice!
#7606
Hey everyone. Heres another noob. Ok, I'm a Honda guy but switched it up a little bit and just purchased me a 2000 Maxima. Anyways I know nothing about Nissan Maximas and to me, a 2000 model car is the newest I've had. Before then the newest was a 92 Honda Prelude, which is a big diff, to me. Anyhow, I noticed that the ABS light is on and stays on. It doesn't go away... Any advice on what I should check for? I already checked the fuse and it was good, so we can omit that. Thanks for any help guys!
#7607
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16349
#7609
Edit: also is there an upper bleeder for the 5th gen?
i still cant post a thread, so far i have searched found three threads of interests.
replaced my clutch using a clutch kit. the flywheel was resurfaced and all that good stuff associated with a clutch job.
before the clutch job, i had problem with the clutch line. the master and slave cylinder were replaced. now with the new clutch, i had a problem where the clutch engaged really high. it started to slip and wheni hit the gas(like go faster , while shifting high. just did that once) it would also slip.
so the work done to correct the problem after the clutch was put in was to adjust the pedal. now it worked INCREDIBLE for ONE day.....the thing would catch immediately and the pedal was really smooshie(i thought it was great). then as the day went on i would lose grip on the clutch. to the point that i would be letting go of the clutch pedal all the way and the car was still on(instead of stalling out). sometime i could get into the gear without even pressing the clutch. the clutch pedal also even became stiffer and pushed back.
we think the master cyclinder is leaking, but i dont see any drop in fluids. also i only saw that replacing the slave cyclinder was a possible solution. the threads i searched didnt really conclude... so any other leads i could fallow?
also real quick, the clutch kit was OEM stuff from Nappa. it was short notice buy, but o well.
Juan
i still cant post a thread, so far i have searched found three threads of interests.
replaced my clutch using a clutch kit. the flywheel was resurfaced and all that good stuff associated with a clutch job.
before the clutch job, i had problem with the clutch line. the master and slave cylinder were replaced. now with the new clutch, i had a problem where the clutch engaged really high. it started to slip and wheni hit the gas(like go faster , while shifting high. just did that once) it would also slip.
so the work done to correct the problem after the clutch was put in was to adjust the pedal. now it worked INCREDIBLE for ONE day.....the thing would catch immediately and the pedal was really smooshie(i thought it was great). then as the day went on i would lose grip on the clutch. to the point that i would be letting go of the clutch pedal all the way and the car was still on(instead of stalling out). sometime i could get into the gear without even pressing the clutch. the clutch pedal also even became stiffer and pushed back.
we think the master cyclinder is leaking, but i dont see any drop in fluids. also i only saw that replacing the slave cyclinder was a possible solution. the threads i searched didnt really conclude... so any other leads i could fallow?
also real quick, the clutch kit was OEM stuff from Nappa. it was short notice buy, but o well.
Juan
Last edited by jdm0830; 02-02-2009 at 08:42 AM.
#7613
Loss of power...
Hi everyone.
I got a 2003 Maxima SE 6sp. Ever since I got it, I found that (whatever the speed) when I slightly press on the gas, It seems like I have a constant loss of power and this for as long as I keep a slight pressure on the gas. As soon as I give it some more gas, everything is fine and nothing seems to be wrong with the power. It’s also a pain when I’m to a complete stop and start in first gear. I have to give just a bit more gas than what I should which is kind of uncomfortable and annoying because of the same problem.
Anybody have an idea what it can be and what should I do?
Thanks.
I got a 2003 Maxima SE 6sp. Ever since I got it, I found that (whatever the speed) when I slightly press on the gas, It seems like I have a constant loss of power and this for as long as I keep a slight pressure on the gas. As soon as I give it some more gas, everything is fine and nothing seems to be wrong with the power. It’s also a pain when I’m to a complete stop and start in first gear. I have to give just a bit more gas than what I should which is kind of uncomfortable and annoying because of the same problem.
Anybody have an idea what it can be and what should I do?
Thanks.
Last edited by Biomech; 02-04-2009 at 06:48 AM.
#7614
Trunk problem
Hello guys !!
I just need a little help. I change my trunk lock because it just broke. Now, my trunk dont close completly!! The problem is if I put the lock lower the automatic open door (the button on the remote and inside the car).They have a little cable that you have to put in the lock !! I just wanna to know if they have a spring on this cable. Hope you understand my situation. Thank you for helping me !!!
Junior
I just need a little help. I change my trunk lock because it just broke. Now, my trunk dont close completly!! The problem is if I put the lock lower the automatic open door (the button on the remote and inside the car).They have a little cable that you have to put in the lock !! I just wanna to know if they have a spring on this cable. Hope you understand my situation. Thank you for helping me !!!
Junior
#7616
#7618
#7620
#7621
#7623
Check this link out; you can play around with different tire sizes:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
#7624
Check this link out; you can play around with different tire sizes:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
#7626
Wheels sizing clearance
Just a quick ? these are the spec for the audi a5 rims, the guy told me that they won't fit because they have a bolt pattern of 5/112 where my maxima 00 has a bolt pattern of 5/114. Now I spoke to one of the dudes from a hub cap store told me even with an adaptive Wheel spacer it wouldn't clear. Is this true and if I get the 18" will that give me the clearance I need.
P.S. it's not lowered
Help me thank you
Spec.
Wheel Manufacture and model: RadArt A5R
Wheel Diameter : 19"
Wheel Width: 8.5" Front 5.5" Rear
Wheel Offset: ET32 Front and ET32 Rear
Wheel Finish: HYPER SILVER
19x8.5J
P.S. it's not lowered
Help me thank you
Spec.
Wheel Manufacture and model: RadArt A5R
Wheel Diameter : 19"
Wheel Width: 8.5" Front 5.5" Rear
Wheel Offset: ET32 Front and ET32 Rear
Wheel Finish: HYPER SILVER
19x8.5J
#7627
Just a quick ? these are the spec for the audi a5 rims, the guy told me that they won't fit because they have a bolt pattern of 5/112 where my maxima 00 has a bolt pattern of 5/114. Now I spoke to one of the dudes from a hub cap store told me even with an adaptive Wheel spacer it wouldn't clear. Is this true and if I get the 18" will that give me the clearance I need.
P.S. it's not lowered
Help me thank you
Spec.
Wheel Manufacture and model: RadArt A5R
Wheel Diameter : 19"
Wheel Width: 8.5" Front 5.5" Rear
Wheel Offset: ET32 Front and ET32 Rear
Wheel Finish: HYPER SILVER
19x8.5J
P.S. it's not lowered
Help me thank you
Spec.
Wheel Manufacture and model: RadArt A5R
Wheel Diameter : 19"
Wheel Width: 8.5" Front 5.5" Rear
Wheel Offset: ET32 Front and ET32 Rear
Wheel Finish: HYPER SILVER
19x8.5J
#7628
1 2 D (OD off) D (OD on)...I could control all 4 gears the way wanted. Upshifting this way is fine, forcing down shifts this way is bad. But I say let the car shift its normal course.
#7631
breaks pushing back?
driving in the snow today i noticed something weird. When i applied the breaks, the breaks seemed to push back on my foot. I mean i could feel my leg move up because of the force. Was this because of the snow (well im sure it was) but can it also be an alignment problem which was most obvious in icy conditions? I do notice a slight drift to the right if i let my steering go while driving but i dont get any vibrations while driving....so im a bit puzzled
#7632
driving in the snow today i noticed something weird. When i applied the breaks, the breaks seemed to push back on my foot. I mean i could feel my leg move up because of the force. Was this because of the snow (well im sure it was) but can it also be an alignment problem which was most obvious in icy conditions? I do notice a slight drift to the right if i let my steering go while driving but i dont get any vibrations while driving....so im a bit puzzled
#7633
2000 Maxima SE 5spd Stalls at speeds bove 30mph
Hi i am new here and i am wondering if anybody has had the same problem as me. My wifes car has 152k and we have owned it since it had 56k and overall has been a great car. But now when you are driving, if you hold in the clutch for more than a few seconds it will drop the rpms down to nothing and sometimes bounce back up or sometimes it will stall which can be a little dangerous. Car has no current DTCs. It runs fine at idle and never stalls but once you get going like 30mph or above if you hold the clutch in it will stall. Plugs are new and the coils have been replaced once, so has the MAF. I have been wondering if there is some type of speed sensor involved in this problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated as i dont want to bring it to the dealer.
#7636
Hi everyone.
I got a 2003 Maxima SE 6sp. Ever since I got it, I found that (whatever the speed) when I slightly press on the gas, It seems like I have a constant loss of power and this for as long as I keep a slight pressure on the gas. As soon as I give it some more gas, everything is fine and nothing seems to be wrong with the power. It’s also a pain when I’m to a complete stop and start in first gear. I have to give just a bit more gas than what I should which is kind of uncomfortable and annoying because of the same problem.
Anybody have an idea what it can be and what should I do?
Thanks.
I got a 2003 Maxima SE 6sp. Ever since I got it, I found that (whatever the speed) when I slightly press on the gas, It seems like I have a constant loss of power and this for as long as I keep a slight pressure on the gas. As soon as I give it some more gas, everything is fine and nothing seems to be wrong with the power. It’s also a pain when I’m to a complete stop and start in first gear. I have to give just a bit more gas than what I should which is kind of uncomfortable and annoying because of the same problem.
Anybody have an idea what it can be and what should I do?
Thanks.
#7637
question about code p1574
ok i am getting a code p1574 on my 02 maxima. speedo reading is off by about half and cruise control is inop. abs light comes on when moving.
i think it might be a sensor on the trans but i am not sure where it is,any suggestions? thanks in advance
i think it might be a sensor on the trans but i am not sure where it is,any suggestions? thanks in advance
Last edited by twstdstng; 02-04-2009 at 07:00 AM.
#7638
Okay here we go...
I have a 2k Maxima SE 5speed. 135k.
For about the last 3,000 miles I've had the well documented stalling issue. It hasn't really bothered me too badly but recently it has gotten pretty bad. I've done a lot of research on this, but here's my other question.
Recently while the engine has been under load at a lower RPM (say, 5th gear at 2000 RPM). If I go WOT or close to it, the engine will rev up 500-600 RPM, then come back down and the car will actually start moving...
Question is, are the IAC and what seems like a slipping clutch related? Could the IAC cause the WOT rev-up, or do I have both an IAC and clutch problem?
If the car needs both I'm just going to trade it in, I don't feel like sinking any more money into it, but if it's just the IAC, then I'll probably take care of it.
I have a 2k Maxima SE 5speed. 135k.
For about the last 3,000 miles I've had the well documented stalling issue. It hasn't really bothered me too badly but recently it has gotten pretty bad. I've done a lot of research on this, but here's my other question.
Recently while the engine has been under load at a lower RPM (say, 5th gear at 2000 RPM). If I go WOT or close to it, the engine will rev up 500-600 RPM, then come back down and the car will actually start moving...
Question is, are the IAC and what seems like a slipping clutch related? Could the IAC cause the WOT rev-up, or do I have both an IAC and clutch problem?
If the car needs both I'm just going to trade it in, I don't feel like sinking any more money into it, but if it's just the IAC, then I'll probably take care of it.
#7639
Driving home from Manhattan last night... little black ice on the roads, nothing that I haven't experienced before. Then my brakes start to act funny.
It was like they were dead, I was trying to brake and it felt rock hard, no give. Then it would loosen up and I could depressed the brakes but it made a weird mechanical/ electrical short circuit sound.
Brought it to the shop ASAP on the way home, the dude said it was just my ABS being activated.
Turned the car on this morning and after a little bit of driving the ABS light came on. Wondering if the sensors are busted.
Also I know how the ABS feels on my car, I can feel the pulses when its activated... but this time no pulse, just a rock hard pedal and then a weird noise afterwards.
Any thoughts? Taking it over to LI tomorrow morning to get it checked out by Jeff.
2002 Maxima SE 125K miles... just replaced suspension kyb2- hr springs
It was like they were dead, I was trying to brake and it felt rock hard, no give. Then it would loosen up and I could depressed the brakes but it made a weird mechanical/ electrical short circuit sound.
Brought it to the shop ASAP on the way home, the dude said it was just my ABS being activated.
Turned the car on this morning and after a little bit of driving the ABS light came on. Wondering if the sensors are busted.
Also I know how the ABS feels on my car, I can feel the pulses when its activated... but this time no pulse, just a rock hard pedal and then a weird noise afterwards.
Any thoughts? Taking it over to LI tomorrow morning to get it checked out by Jeff.
2002 Maxima SE 125K miles... just replaced suspension kyb2- hr springs
Last edited by sangmin; 02-04-2009 at 08:46 AM. Reason: background
#7640
Just bought a 02 SE with 65k, I've put 800 miles on it in the 8 days I've had it, yesterday the SES light came on. Autozone pulled the following two codes.
P0455 - Evap leak
P1147 - 02 Max voltage not met
I've looked into what people suggest for the codes, will probably try a new gas cap first as its the cheapest solution.
But my real question is can I tell if the ECU has been reset recently, like if it was reset before I bought it with these codes then they have popped back up after some more driving. My mechanic hooked it up to a OBD II device and didn't show any codes before I bought it but I wasn't sure if it could tell if it had been reset recently. Also if I remember correctly when you go for a MA inspection you can't pass if your ECU had been recently reset to hide codes but I could be wrong.
P0455 - Evap leak
P1147 - 02 Max voltage not met
I've looked into what people suggest for the codes, will probably try a new gas cap first as its the cheapest solution.
But my real question is can I tell if the ECU has been reset recently, like if it was reset before I bought it with these codes then they have popped back up after some more driving. My mechanic hooked it up to a OBD II device and didn't show any codes before I bought it but I wasn't sure if it could tell if it had been reset recently. Also if I remember correctly when you go for a MA inspection you can't pass if your ECU had been recently reset to hide codes but I could be wrong.