...what attached instructions?

Again, what do you mean how do you take them off? If there's a clamp, remove it. Then pull it off

If you can't get the IACV connector off, just wait until you've pulled the TB off of the UIM, then you'll have easier access.

 

These instructions:
http://www.freeengineinfo.com/idle-a...eplacement.htm

 

The instructions look perfectly fine to me...

As they (explicitly) say, remove the TB first, then disconnect the electrical. Makes it easier.

What exactly is the issue?

 

Not sure exactly what point you are trying to prove here....

 

Not sure exactly what point you are trying to prove here....

 

HELP, Greetings everyone, please excuse me if this is in the wrong place to post this as I am new to blogs and do hot have this figured out just yet.

I have a 03 Maxima, I have been to 2 dealers and neither could repair my car. This is the problem, the car will start and idle fine, you can push the throttle to the floor and 1400 RPMs is as fast as she will run, also the check engine light is on. At the dealer they can re-set the computer and it will respond normally until you get the check engine light, then its 1400 RPM max again the next time you start it. The first time it did this the dealer replaced the throttle body, reset the code and everything was fine for a couple of days, now after reset within a couple of minutes the check engine light comes on and throttle response works fine until you kill the engine, then its 1400 RPM s again until the dealer rests it. For additional details the first dealer replaced the throttle body, worked fine for a couple of days, the second dealer just spent hours trouble shooting and said that we had low voltage to the throttle body (4.2 volts to the throttle body at idle and not 5 volts) the only code it would produce was throttle control circuit and that was it. He told me he thought the problem was the complete engine compartment wiring harness needed replaced but did not know for sure. It was the only thing he could think of that could cause th voltage drop but I dont agree as it would send the 15 volts at wide open throttle then surely it could carry 5 volts as it was suppose to. If anyone can help please drop me an email at mackgarrett@gmail.com, if you like I can call you also. Any ideas on a fix for this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again, Mack

PS I apologize for having to leave my email address but I dont have the bloging thing figured out and am not sure I could find the reply's yet, if anyone replys please email me a link to the reply.

 

What were the actual codes the mechanic found when he scanned the car? The codes can in most cases tell you specifically what the cause of the problem(s), especially if you're familiar with Maximas. They should be on the repair order you received form the cashier. Example of a code is P1320 or P0400.

Guessing is the last resort not the first thing a mechanic should do especially a Nissan mechanic who should be very familiar with the car. At first glance this situation sounds a little odd. I think one or both of the dealership's service managers or shop foremen should be providing their mechanics a little more help/direction if the mechanic is guessing after one repair attempt.

 

I am still unable to remove the bottom connecter, do you just push down on the little grooved button in the middle of the two other raised pieces and pull?

 

Yes.

 

It is too stiff and there is too little space to push down on that part and pull at the same time. Any suggestions? Will heavy duty silicone spray be safe in this situation or should I try electrical contact cleaner?

 

Will the spray help for what? It won't help you get any more leverage on the connector...

Again, have you removed the TB from the UIM? It gives you a much better angle.

Failing that, have you not tried using a pair of pliers or similar to depress the locking tab?

 

I finally managed to replace the IACV and had my ecu repaired after my car would immediately stall. Now the idle changes from 1500 to 3000 rpm, I am wondering if an Idle relearn is necessary. I am a bit confused about one of the steps though, should I disconnect the top brown harness or the bottom brown harness? Thanks

 

You disconnect the connector on the TPS. There are two connectors, one gray, one brown.

Which other brown connector are you seeing?

 

Sorry, you are right, the bottom one is grey. When I disconnect the top one, the engine goes to redline, I wait 5 seconds during which it stays on redline and then plug it back in, once plugged in it returns to the same cycle of 1500 to 3000 as before. I guess its dealer time? I am worried that they'll claim that the rebuilt ECU is the issue (which it very well could be). Any other suggestions?

 

They did not provide a code (numbers) on the invoice but the tech did tell me that the only code it was producing was throttle control circuit, that was it .

 

Between the wording of various code scanners, differences in how people say them, and how he may have explained it to you, it could be quite a few different codes.

Concerning the TB, TPS, APPS, etc are P0122, P0123, P0222, P0223, P1121, P1122, P1124, P1126, P1128, P1225, P1226, P2122, P2123, P2127, P2128, P2135, or P2138.

As you can see, 17 different codes and as many different issues can cause them.

Did he clear the codes? If not, you should retrieve the code and post it up, otherwise as you see, diagnosis could take a while.

So it will not rise above 1400 RPM, regardless of throttle position, gear selection, etc?

The only code I see that shows any specific RPM cutoff is P1121, which says the TB itself is bad (or more accurately, the return spring for the throttle valve). That limits to around 2000 RPM, though.

Though if they've already replaced the TB, did they do the IAVL and throttle position learning?

 

You've got to get the codes. They've got to be on the hard copy of your repair order in your service file. The technician has to indicate what he found wrong and what he did to repair the car and the codes pulled are the primary thing(s) that would determine what repair was done. If the dealership can't at least tell you what codes were pulled I wouldn't go back there again.

I'd like to help but as pmohr has shown you there are lots of codes that you could guess at making diagnosis virtually impossible. If you had the codes you could also do a search on this site to see if anyone else has experienced this same problem. You can search without the code(s) but again it would help if you had them.

 

I have posted before and haven't gotten any help, but I was told to search and I have searched throughout this site and have found nothing that relates to my check engine code P0011. When I went to Autozone the OBD2 scanner told me something about the camshaft actuator sensor(s) were bad. It also said something about the timing being over advanced?? Can someone please help me figure out what to do?

 

You know what, nevermind.

If you can't even read the response you got the last time you asked this question (and the time before that), then you obviously don't want our help.

 

If there is an Autozone in your area, you can get the codes pulled for free; they can still be pending. Like previous posters said, it helps a lot if you had the actual codes along with the symptons you are experiencing with your car.

 

I will call the dealership Monday and post the number of the code, there was only one code and it was throttle control circuit but I will get the number. Thanks Again, Mack

 

Anomaly,
I tried setting the passenger window lockout to the locked position, but it did not prevent it.

Since my original post, I have still had this issue. It does not happen everyday though. Also, my battery developed a bad cell, so I thought that may have had something to do with it. However, I have found them down in the morning since getting the battery replaced. Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Does anyone have a definitive answer on whether 4th & 5th gen Maximas have a WOT limiter at 0mph - 40mph?

 

What do you mean a 'WOT limiter'?

 

For example on Nissan Titan's the throttle is restricted by the ECU below 40mph. I've heard conflicting info whether the Maxima has any similar throttle restriction.

 

Good luck with the ECU restricting the throttle, considering the 4th and 5th gens are not drive by wire...

 

Newbie here. I've been reading this site for awhile now and have some ideas as to what may be the issue but would like advice on the best approach. I have a 2k Maxima GXE. I love the car. It drives great. The only issues I ever have with it tend to be electrical though.

Right now my issue is that I do not get any reception on FM or AM with my radio. It is the stock radio (not BOSE) that came with the car. The only add on was a 10-disc changer that is in the trunk with a separate wired remote that I control at the base of the shifter (it was supposed to be 6 changer, but they gave me a 10).

I have no tint on the rear windshield. No work has been done on my car. Over time the wiring on the remote with the CD started to go causing it to cut in and out. A couple of years ago, I lost the CD connection completely. Now I've lost all reception to FM and AM except for one FM station which is faded but can be heard depending on where the car is located.

I've never taken the radio out so I don't expect it to be a connection in the back, but who knows. The last electrical issue I had was with the passenger side mirror not moving with the auto switch since something in the dash kept breaking whatever item the dealer kept fixing. Of course the dealer discovers this after the warranty was up and after fixing the mirror 4 times in about a year and a half, but that's a whole other thread.

What I'm looking for is what do you think is the issue with the reception? Is the radio itself shot, or the antenna? Does it sound like a bad connection with the antenna, or perhaps the antenna is broken? If I'm going to figure it out on my own, what do you think I should do first? I checked the fuses (except I'm unsure of which one is for the antenna.) Should I pull the radio out? What's the best way to check if the antenna is busted? Anyone else have this issue with the stock radio?

Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.

 

Pull the headunit, check the connections.

 

Heh, 5 & 6th I should have said. But now maybe just 6th

 

There's no sort of limiter on the 5.5 (which is DBW), nor should there be on the 6th gen.

 

Is it possible to hoist the engine and tranny together up out of the car instead of underneath as described in the service manual?

 

Yes, and it's how most do it.

 

Thanks again...bro

 

Okay I have a question for the experienced maxima owners:

What is the best setup for cold air in the 5.5? I have done some research and I see it is done many ways and Im not too sure what I should do..

I've seen the long pipe down to the grill (involves rotating or moving battery to trunk)
I have also seen ones with a short pipe and the battery still in it's original position.

What have you guys done, which is easier/better performance? I think I would prefer to do the long pipe down to the grille but I dont know how to reposition the battery...
Help?

 

Anybody have custom mirrors? I am looking at led ones and I dont understand the different types since they are universal fit...

What is the difference between:
3EW Power Mirrors - M3M-G2-3EW-LED-BL
4AW Power Mirrors - M3M-G2-4AW-LED-BL


what is 3ew and 4aw??

 

I have a 2000 Maxima that is throwing PO171 / PO174 codes. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and tested the voltage which were within the correct range since it seems the MAF is the typical cause of the problem. Another symptom is the light tends to come on when the gas tank is around half full or less. Is there a problem that would correlate a low tank and these codes? Any help would be appreciated.

 

i own a 2002 maxima se and im new to the site. i bought it 2 years ago from a dealer and the speakers randomly just stop working for no reason, then come back on. sometimes its just one side. any ideas?

 

also in the back left window although all of the windows are closed it still sounds like the back left window is open, as i can hear a faint whistle . how do u fix this?

 

so im considering buying the cattman catback...if i do buy catback, what other exhaust parts do i need besides headers to be complete 3"

 

A converter.

There are no 3" headers, as that would just be ridiculous.