5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
rattle
so as stated on the last page, i did the STS mod today and while under my hood i noticed what has been making as awful racket in my engine bay, most of the time under part throttle. hopefully someone can help.
while standing looking into the engine bay on the passenger side of the intake manifold the is a vaccuum solenoid or something that attaches to a lever that disappears into the intake.now not knowing what its called its hard to do a search for it otherwise i would, so if someone can point me in the right direction...many thanks this noise its making is driving me insane i can hear it while driving ...lol
while standing looking into the engine bay on the passenger side of the intake manifold the is a vaccuum solenoid or something that attaches to a lever that disappears into the intake.now not knowing what its called its hard to do a search for it otherwise i would, so if someone can point me in the right direction...many thanks this noise its making is driving me insane i can hear it while driving ...lol
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 19
problem!?!
hi guys,
is it normal that my engine move a lot when i change gear like P to R or R to D. Even when i drive and the car change speed i feel that the engine give hit. I don't know if it is the same problem. What will be the problem ?
Thank you to take the time to read me
Junior
is it normal that my engine move a lot when i change gear like P to R or R to D. Even when i drive and the car change speed i feel that the engine give hit. I don't know if it is the same problem. What will be the problem ?
Thank you to take the time to read me
Junior
hi guys,
is it normal that my engine move a lot when i change gear like P to R or R to D. Even when i drive and the car change speed i feel that the engine give hit. I don't know if it is the same problem. What will be the problem ?
Thank you to take the time to read me
Junior
is it normal that my engine move a lot when i change gear like P to R or R to D. Even when i drive and the car change speed i feel that the engine give hit. I don't know if it is the same problem. What will be the problem ?
Thank you to take the time to read me
Junior
hi guys,
is it normal that my engine move a lot when i change gear like P to R or R to D. Even when i drive and the car change speed i feel that the engine give hit. I don't know if it is the same problem. What will be the problem ?
Thank you to take the time to read me
Junior
is it normal that my engine move a lot when i change gear like P to R or R to D. Even when i drive and the car change speed i feel that the engine give hit. I don't know if it is the same problem. What will be the problem ?
Thank you to take the time to read me
Junior
Yea, it had the P140 or whatever it is code stored. He wanted me to pay him $700+ to put in three O2 sensors and a MAF. I just bought the MAF and put it in myself and the codes are gone.
Anyway, you're saying the induction cleaning thing is bullsh*t too, correct? He said it would clean the carbon or something from the motor and make it run a lot better. If that's the truth then I'm down for doing it but it sounds sketch. Thanks for the info, Progress.
Anyway, you're saying the induction cleaning thing is bullsh*t too, correct? He said it would clean the carbon or something from the motor and make it run a lot better. If that's the truth then I'm down for doing it but it sounds sketch. Thanks for the info, Progress.
As long as you replace the parts that caused the problem (O2 sensor and MAF) you're fine.
So search didn't give you an answer? That's odd. It does for me 
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ation-ecu.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...u-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ation-ecu.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...u-removal.html
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 13
Did you search at all? Look at the Nitrous forum? Look at the stickies?
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous-40/
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous/123...rous-faqs.html
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous-40/
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous/123...rous-faqs.html
i did look through the faqs but i didnt see anyone ask my question
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Hi All,
Having serious issues with my 2000 max SE. A while ago (months) I got a misfire code for cylinder #3. So I replaced the Coil in the cylinder. Once I did that and took the car out for a spin, the code came back, this time with a multiple misfire code, p0300. I replaced the rest of my coils. Still getting the multiple misfire.
So yesterday I tried some trial and error tests, taking out each coil one by one and starting the engine but still no change.
I checked the codes again and this time got a new code... P0433. "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve"
I drove the car around the block and the engine was suddenly very heavy and rough. Parked the car back on the driveway and now it wont even start. When I turn it all I get is lights on the dash board. No response at all from the engine though.
Help Please!
Having serious issues with my 2000 max SE. A while ago (months) I got a misfire code for cylinder #3. So I replaced the Coil in the cylinder. Once I did that and took the car out for a spin, the code came back, this time with a multiple misfire code, p0300. I replaced the rest of my coils. Still getting the multiple misfire.
So yesterday I tried some trial and error tests, taking out each coil one by one and starting the engine but still no change.
I checked the codes again and this time got a new code... P0433. "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve"
I drove the car around the block and the engine was suddenly very heavy and rough. Parked the car back on the driveway and now it wont even start. When I turn it all I get is lights on the dash board. No response at all from the engine though.
Help Please!
There are relevant discussions in the thread I linked.
Failing that, again, did you search?
Some reading...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...k2-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous/365...t-75-06-a.html
Lots of reading, and you'll find your answer. Short answer: you don't need to change anything.
Hi All,
Having serious issues with my 2000 max SE. A while ago (months) I got a misfire code for cylinder #3. So I replaced the Coil in the cylinder. Once I did that and took the car out for a spin, the code came back, this time with a multiple misfire code, p0300. I replaced the rest of my coils. Still getting the multiple misfire.
So yesterday I tried some trial and error tests, taking out each coil one by one and starting the engine but still no change.
I checked the codes again and this time got a new code... P0433. "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve"
I drove the car around the block and the engine was suddenly very heavy and rough. Parked the car back on the driveway and now it wont even start. When I turn it all I get is lights on the dash board. No response at all from the engine though.
Help Please!
Having serious issues with my 2000 max SE. A while ago (months) I got a misfire code for cylinder #3. So I replaced the Coil in the cylinder. Once I did that and took the car out for a spin, the code came back, this time with a multiple misfire code, p0300. I replaced the rest of my coils. Still getting the multiple misfire.
So yesterday I tried some trial and error tests, taking out each coil one by one and starting the engine but still no change.
I checked the codes again and this time got a new code... P0433. "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve"
I drove the car around the block and the engine was suddenly very heavy and rough. Parked the car back on the driveway and now it wont even start. When I turn it all I get is lights on the dash board. No response at all from the engine though.
Help Please!
Have you tried checking the connections at the starter? Hitting it to see if it will start up then?
Pull it out and bench test it.
Hi All,
Having serious issues with my 2000 max SE. A while ago (months) I got a misfire code for cylinder #3. So I replaced the Coil in the cylinder. Once I did that and took the car out for a spin, the code came back, this time with a multiple misfire code, p0300. I replaced the rest of my coils. Still getting the multiple misfire.
So yesterday I tried some trial and error tests, taking out each coil one by one and starting the engine but still no change.
I checked the codes again and this time got a new code... P0433. "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve"
I drove the car around the block and the engine was suddenly very heavy and rough. Parked the car back on the driveway and now it wont even start. When I turn it all I get is lights on the dash board. No response at all from the engine though.
Help Please!
Having serious issues with my 2000 max SE. A while ago (months) I got a misfire code for cylinder #3. So I replaced the Coil in the cylinder. Once I did that and took the car out for a spin, the code came back, this time with a multiple misfire code, p0300. I replaced the rest of my coils. Still getting the multiple misfire.
So yesterday I tried some trial and error tests, taking out each coil one by one and starting the engine but still no change.
I checked the codes again and this time got a new code... P0433. "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve"
I drove the car around the block and the engine was suddenly very heavy and rough. Parked the car back on the driveway and now it wont even start. When I turn it all I get is lights on the dash board. No response at all from the engine though.
Help Please!
P0433- EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve and Solenoid Valve Circuit
This malfunction is detected when one of two things happens. Type A Malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the ECM through the Solenoid Valve circuit, and Type B malfunction is detected when the EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve does not operate properly and is stuck open. Keep in mind the Canister Purge Control Valve is a mechanical, vacuum operated valve, NOT electrically operated.
Possible Causes:
For Malfunction Type A
-Harness or Connectors (The Solenoid Valve circuit is open or shorted)
-EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - OR - - - - - - - - - - - - -
For Malfunction Type B
-EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve
-EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve
-Vacuum Hoses clogged or disconnected
-EVAP control system Pressure Sensor
Malfunction Type A is detected as soon as the key is in the ON position. Malfunction Type B is detected only when test driven or when running the vehicle in the air. This is simply used in the diagnosis process. Since the two Nissan shops have come to the same conclusion that the ECM is not grounding properly, they have probably detected a Type A problem, with the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve.
Now, this is where I believe that the shop had you prepay and replace Canister Purge Solenoid Control Valve, believing that the solenoid/valve was internally faulted. The solenoid/valve can be tested by a simple bench test of supplying power and ground to its terminals and checking if air can be blown between the two passages. Either they did not test it in this manner or the solenoid/valve actually tested bad and so it was replaced. The simplest and fastest fix (and usually more logical) is to simply replace this valve because it may be intermittently sticking open with age or dust/debris internally. This is the most common occurrence. But, upon replacement of this solenoid/valve the code still returned.
They have at this point concluded the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve is not at fault but is not operating properly. The only possibilities left are a problem in the harness or connector to the solenoid/valve, or the ECM not supplying the proper power and ground to it. This can be checked simply by looking for power at the solenoid/valve, and checking continuity of the harness from the solenoid/valve to the ECM. The ECM will only apply ground when certain conditions (that are programmed into the ECM) are met. It will NOT apply ground when any of the following occur:
-Ignition is "ON" and engine is stopped
-Closed throttle is detected
-Low or High engine coolant temp is detected
-During deceleration
-Low vehicle speed (M/T models)
At this point the shop has detected power to the solenoid/valve but has not found ground. They should have also done a continuity check of the circuit, between the solenoid/valve and the ECM, to ensure the harness is ok and not broken, as well as a pin fit test on the connectors at the ECM and the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve to ensure they are not damaged. Thus, making sure that the communication between the ECM and the solenoid/valve is ok.
If, at this point they have concluded that there are no harness problems, or connector problems, they should use the Nissan Consult to activate the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve and look for the ECM to provide a ground. The Consult diagnosis computer can tell the ECM to activate the solenoid/valve upon command of the technician. Assuming that they have done all of this and they still do not receive ground to the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve, the conclusion is that the ECM is internally faulted and needs to be replaced.
OK! I think that is explained as best I can. I hope you understand that ECM failures are not very common but do happen sometimes, and that for a technician they can demand a lot of skill and patience to figure out. Sometimes, it is good to get a second opinion on something like this because it is not an everyday occurrence. I would suggest possibly seeing if you can get a used ECM, as they can be very pricey. Hopefully this answers your question and I hope you enjoy your Nissan overall. If there is anything else, just let me know. Thanks
This malfunction is detected when one of two things happens. Type A Malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the ECM through the Solenoid Valve circuit, and Type B malfunction is detected when the EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve does not operate properly and is stuck open. Keep in mind the Canister Purge Control Valve is a mechanical, vacuum operated valve, NOT electrically operated.
Possible Causes:
For Malfunction Type A
-Harness or Connectors (The Solenoid Valve circuit is open or shorted)
-EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - OR - - - - - - - - - - - - -
For Malfunction Type B
-EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve
-EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve
-Vacuum Hoses clogged or disconnected
-EVAP control system Pressure Sensor
Malfunction Type A is detected as soon as the key is in the ON position. Malfunction Type B is detected only when test driven or when running the vehicle in the air. This is simply used in the diagnosis process. Since the two Nissan shops have come to the same conclusion that the ECM is not grounding properly, they have probably detected a Type A problem, with the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve.
Now, this is where I believe that the shop had you prepay and replace Canister Purge Solenoid Control Valve, believing that the solenoid/valve was internally faulted. The solenoid/valve can be tested by a simple bench test of supplying power and ground to its terminals and checking if air can be blown between the two passages. Either they did not test it in this manner or the solenoid/valve actually tested bad and so it was replaced. The simplest and fastest fix (and usually more logical) is to simply replace this valve because it may be intermittently sticking open with age or dust/debris internally. This is the most common occurrence. But, upon replacement of this solenoid/valve the code still returned.
They have at this point concluded the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve is not at fault but is not operating properly. The only possibilities left are a problem in the harness or connector to the solenoid/valve, or the ECM not supplying the proper power and ground to it. This can be checked simply by looking for power at the solenoid/valve, and checking continuity of the harness from the solenoid/valve to the ECM. The ECM will only apply ground when certain conditions (that are programmed into the ECM) are met. It will NOT apply ground when any of the following occur:
-Ignition is "ON" and engine is stopped
-Closed throttle is detected
-Low or High engine coolant temp is detected
-During deceleration
-Low vehicle speed (M/T models)
At this point the shop has detected power to the solenoid/valve but has not found ground. They should have also done a continuity check of the circuit, between the solenoid/valve and the ECM, to ensure the harness is ok and not broken, as well as a pin fit test on the connectors at the ECM and the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve to ensure they are not damaged. Thus, making sure that the communication between the ECM and the solenoid/valve is ok.
If, at this point they have concluded that there are no harness problems, or connector problems, they should use the Nissan Consult to activate the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve and look for the ECM to provide a ground. The Consult diagnosis computer can tell the ECM to activate the solenoid/valve upon command of the technician. Assuming that they have done all of this and they still do not receive ground to the Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve, the conclusion is that the ECM is internally faulted and needs to be replaced.
OK! I think that is explained as best I can. I hope you understand that ECM failures are not very common but do happen sometimes, and that for a technician they can demand a lot of skill and patience to figure out. Sometimes, it is good to get a second opinion on something like this because it is not an everyday occurrence. I would suggest possibly seeing if you can get a used ECM, as they can be very pricey. Hopefully this answers your question and I hope you enjoy your Nissan overall. If there is anything else, just let me know. Thanks
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
You only have to replace those that are worn. You can check by keeping your foot on the brake while in gear, and giving it some gas. The engine shouldn't move an extreme amount.
There are relevant discussions in the thread I linked.
Failing that, again, did you search?
Some reading...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...k2-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous/365...t-75-06-a.html
Lots of reading, and you'll find your answer. Short answer: you don't need to change anything.
So it doesn't click or anything when you turn the key to start?
Have you tried checking the connections at the starter? Hitting it to see if it will start up then?
Pull it out and bench test it.
There are relevant discussions in the thread I linked.
Failing that, again, did you search?
Some reading...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...k2-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous/365...t-75-06-a.html
Lots of reading, and you'll find your answer. Short answer: you don't need to change anything.
So it doesn't click or anything when you turn the key to start?
Have you tried checking the connections at the starter? Hitting it to see if it will start up then?
Pull it out and bench test it.
I have to say im just learning about engines now so I wouldn't know how to check the starter connections... I'll see if I can find a guide for it...
Thanks for the reply.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
I guess my problem is a Malfunction A because it wont even start up.
I'll try this stuff out and get back to you guys.
This was on the front page:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ght-cover.html
Even has a part number:
B6595-2Y011, $25.92 each at Courtesy
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...n-how-diy.html to
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-reviews.html to
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/442543/15
Also I searched 'lexus capsules', these were all on the front page
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...sules-how.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-fogs-not.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-capsules.html
It's likely a donating member only option.
new rims, lots of shaking
So yesterday I went from having 16" rims (the honeycomb looking ones) on my max to the 350z 35th anniversary ones, but while driving today on the FDR at around 40 - 45 mph the steering wheel started to shake left and right, and it felt like I was losing control. Also whenever I hit a pothole the steering wheels would start turning to the right and again I felt out of control. At first I though that it could be the fact that I didnt get my wheels balanced, but today while driving at around 10 - 15 mph, trying to avoid a pothole, I slightly stepped over the pothole and the steering wheels completely turned to the right by itself. Could this be a case of me not having by wheels balanced by a professional? or is there something else I should be looking at?
Thanks.
Thanks.
So yesterday I went from having 16" rims (the honeycomb looking ones) on my max to the 350z 35th anniversary ones, but while driving today on the FDR at around 40 - 45 mph the steering wheel started to shake left and right, and it felt like I was losing control. Also whenever I hit a pothole the steering wheels would start turning to the right and again I felt out of control. At first I though that it could be the fact that I didnt get my wheels balanced, but today while driving at around 10 - 15 mph, trying to avoid a pothole, I slightly stepped over the pothole and the steering wheels completely turned to the right by itself. Could this be a case of me not having by wheels balanced by a professional? or is there something else I should be looking at?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Have you done any other work to it right before this happened? Have you made sure the lugnuts are torqued down?
No previous work was done, and this was not happening before the wheels change. I will defitnely do a wheel balance asap, but I just don't feel confortable driving without the proper control of the car. Anyone else might have an idea of what might be causing this. All the lugs where tightened down with air pressured tools.
No previous work was done, and this was not happening before the wheels change. I will defitnely do a wheel balance asap, but I just don't feel confortable driving without the proper control of the car. Anyone else might have an idea of what might be causing this. All the lugs where tightened down with air pressured tools.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 347
From: Tolland, Connecticut
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
From: Las Vegas
thanks ccolmax!!!
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
From: Las Vegas
MAF?
Recently changed the IDLE AVC- car was running better- couple of weeks ago ECU light came on(the codes form autozone were P0171-TWICE)- Tried the MAF 10$ MAF cleaning- light went off-
car is a little smoother changing gears when im not punching it- when im flooring it 1st to 2nd & 2nd to 3rd ia a little rough.
I also have slight pinging especially when ac is on and car has been running for awhile. the pinging was worse when i used reg. gas but not as bad when i use premium- any suggestions?
car is a little smoother changing gears when im not punching it- when im flooring it 1st to 2nd & 2nd to 3rd ia a little rough.
I also have slight pinging especially when ac is on and car has been running for awhile. the pinging was worse when i used reg. gas but not as bad when i use premium- any suggestions?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
From: Kitchener, ON
01 SES light after refueling
So just bought an 01 max se 5 speed about a week ago w/ 105k miles. Filled up with 87 gas and now throwing an SES light. I've read that I probably shouldnt burn cheap gas as our max's don't like it, but would that be enough to throw a SES code? Also noticed that the car hesistates somewhat in 1st-3rd noticeably when cold (car pulsing a bit at lower rpm's, power increases and smoother after 3500rpms.) I dont live near an auto zone and refuse to pay the dealer to pull the code. I've also done quite a bit of reading on this forum and noted what it possibly could be..MAF, coil packs, sensors etc. Any suggestions as to what I should look for first?
Thanks
So just bought an 01 max se 5 speed about a week ago w/ 105k miles. Filled up with 87 gas and now throwing an SES light. I've read that I probably shouldnt burn cheap gas as our max's don't like it, but would that be enough to throw a SES code? Also noticed that the car hesistates somewhat in 1st-3rd noticeably when cold (car pulsing a bit at lower rpm's, power increases and smoother after 3500rpms.) I dont live near an auto zone and refuse to pay the dealer to pull the code. I've also done quite a bit of reading on this forum and noted what it possibly could be..MAF, coil packs, sensors etc. Any suggestions as to what I should look for first?
Thanks
01 SES light after refueling
So just bought an 01 max se 5 speed about a week ago w/ 105k miles. Filled up with 87 gas and now throwing an SES light. I've read that I probably shouldnt burn cheap gas as our max's don't like it, but would that be enough to throw a SES code? Also noticed that the car hesistates somewhat in 1st-3rd noticeably when cold (car pulsing a bit at lower rpm's, power increases and smoother after 3500rpms.) I dont live near an auto zone and refuse to pay the dealer to pull the code. I've also done quite a bit of reading on this forum and noted what it possibly could be..MAF, coil packs, sensors etc. Any suggestions as to what I should look for first?
Thanks
So just bought an 01 max se 5 speed about a week ago w/ 105k miles. Filled up with 87 gas and now throwing an SES light. I've read that I probably shouldnt burn cheap gas as our max's don't like it, but would that be enough to throw a SES code? Also noticed that the car hesistates somewhat in 1st-3rd noticeably when cold (car pulsing a bit at lower rpm's, power increases and smoother after 3500rpms.) I dont live near an auto zone and refuse to pay the dealer to pull the code. I've also done quite a bit of reading on this forum and noted what it possibly could be..MAF, coil packs, sensors etc. Any suggestions as to what I should look for first?
Thanks
The CEL could come on for any number of things. There's absolutely no point in trying to randomly diagnose something, while also completely ignoring what the ECU is trying to say is the problem.
At the very least a local Walmart or similar should have a cheap OBD-II code reader.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 35
i need help on this one i have a 00 nissan maxima and my headlights and fog lights wont come on but when i turn the switch the park light is the only thing that comes on the dash light on the inside are ok and i check all the fuse under the hood and dash and i check the relays by switch them to the park light relay and the are fine but there is no click nose come from them when i put them back in the oringinal place can the switch be bad and still turn on the park light
I might post a WTB, but i was just wondering im pretty sure im gettin the obx's but im not really up to par with info on tuning and im not sure where to buy a device and id rather not buy it new... are those things installed in your car or somthing you get hooked up to?
I have a question regarding my coils.
CEL came on, so I took it to dealership and I was told it was for p0420 and p1320. They told me to get my software updated which can possibly get rid of the p0420. I agreed and they reset the CEL after the update. No light still after 300miles of driving. My question is if my ignition coils are still bad? That was the first time I ever got the p1320. I just hit 100k last week. Is it a good time to change the coils out or just wait till they crap out?
CEL came on, so I took it to dealership and I was told it was for p0420 and p1320. They told me to get my software updated which can possibly get rid of the p0420. I agreed and they reset the CEL after the update. No light still after 300miles of driving. My question is if my ignition coils are still bad? That was the first time I ever got the p1320. I just hit 100k last week. Is it a good time to change the coils out or just wait till they crap out?