Suspension work?

If you look in through the stickies in All Motor, or even touch the search button, you'll find thread after thread after thread after...etc on this subject.

Search.

There's no way for us to tell you cost, as parts as well as labor prices differ tremendously.

 

okay i have a couple questions. first of i bought a 00' maxima about 3 months ago and the day after i bought it it wouldnt start so i took it back and they replaced the starter sensors? 2 little plastic thing after that it ran good and started good up untill the last couple of weeks...after the sensors the clutch went and the guy told me that peices of the clutch went into the starter?? after i got my new clutch in the car would make a weird loud noise then it would act like it wouldnt start after a couple trys it would start..so after i replaced the starter it started fine...now it wont start again. iv replaced the starter and O2 sensors and it wont start still. any help plz

 

Will the 2002 Remote and key work with a 2000? I found this on ebay and it looks better than the one made for the 2000 Maxima.

2002 Flip Key Remote

2000 Flip Key Remote

 

-wow, that actually looks pretty awesome. do you think the quality of it is decent? have you heard anything about the flip key remote thing for our cars?

 

my problem is that i have replaced 3 starters in the last year and i still have the same issue. sometimes when the car is starting it appears to go into a partial hydralic lockup that either stops the engine for a second while starting or slows it right down for a short time as well. it will then start normally most of the time although you can not predict when the starter will stop working properly. i have tried adding an additional ground cable from the location below the battery to the starter mount directly using 10ga cable but this didnt work although it did help a slipping tranny (bad grounds on these cars). when the starter fails it will either spin without engaging the engine (solenoide) or not turn at all. they were all new starters from NAPA (good warrenty). my thoughts on what could be wrong are either leaking injectors into the engine or a failing position sensor. once the engine is started it runs great. the only codes i found were related to the evap system P0455 and p1448. i removed the valve and repaired it and the codes have appeared to have gone away. they were the only codes on the car.
Help is appreciated, thanks in advance. Ted, tedchapman@sympatico.ca

 

You will have to mount a spare key in the column somewhere. Our keys are chipped and they need to be present to start the car.

 

I have the exact same issue on my '01 20th Anniversay Edition. It's supposed to have the Infiniti 3.0 liter engine. It acts almost like a carbureted car that preignites while cranking and tries to backfire through the carb. I bought the car with a CAI intake already installed and an aftermarket Y-pipe. The only codes mine has thrown is for the back pre-cat insufficiency, that's gone because of the Y-pipe. I thought there was a relation between the Y-pipe and the cranking thing but maybe not.

 

Didnt think about that. I wonder if the ebay one is chipped. I'll ask. But is the key fob remote thing compatible with the 2000 maxima?

 

Just checked...the text in blue says "FREE REMOTE PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTION AVAILABLE,YOU NEED TO GET THE KEY CUT AND TRANSPONDER PROGRAMMED BY DEALER OR LOCKSMITH." The transponder is the chip in the key. So looks like i shouldnt have to put the stock key in the car too.

As for the remote, anybody know?

 

Do you think it's worth it? The dealer has to reprogram all your keys and it will probably cost you at least an hour of their time ($100+). I remember a thread about this awhile ago.

 

Keep in mind that, although locksmiths charge much less than the dealerships for cutting and programming your key ($50+), not all of them are willing to do so on a key that it is not sold by them.
I wouldn't know if their remotes actually work with our cars, but if they do, that is something you can do if you have the instructions.

 

Having same problem

 

I am looking to buy a 2000 se max. when you turn the lights on, there are no gauge lights. as well, the cluster for the climate control and radio work fine, UNTIL you turn the lights on, then there is nothing!!! the ashtray lights work, the interior light, everything else seems fine, just this wonky thing, I am scared to try new dimmer switch cause there $125.00 and if it doesnt work??? plz help.

 

Does anyone know the part number of the brembo blanks that everyone seems to rave about. I found some part numbers on this forum but when I searched for them, they don't fit my 01 max. I tried tirerack just to see what they have, and I got 25575 OR 65575 for the blanks. I don't know if they are what everyone is talking about or they are something else.

Thanks in advance.

 

Ok so i've been researching intakes for the max (5.5). From what ive found Injen on the dyno is a waste. Im between GAB w/k&N drop in or Jim Wolfe pop charger. On that note, whats the deal with the pop charger, is it just an air filter? Does it include any piping?

 

Just do the GAB. It'll do the same thing and it's much more easily reversible (just put the top back on) It sounds great and feels like it increases power.. at least in cooler weather. It's a great winter mod but I've grown suspicious of its effectiveness in the hot summer months. It feels like it might actually detract from performance a bit if it's too hot (might allow more hot air from the engine compartment in?) Again, GAB isn't pretty, but it's so easily reversible and gives you the same effect as a pop charger.

 

Im confused, I thought GAB was drilling the (4) 1/4 quarter inch holes into the airbox? Also, does the pop charger come with piping if I decided to go that route.

 

I believe there is another version someone did which involves using a hanger to hold the filter in place instead of drilling.

 

Check out the group buy section. We have some vendors here which are selling them.

 

It could be the dimmer. Check out the FSM's in my signature and see what else those components trace to. You could always pickup a used dimmer from someone parting out a maxima in the for sale section or from a wrecking yard (car-part.com)

 

I'm not sure of a 2k2 remote will work for a 2k. Reason being that in 2k2 they introduced a feature to roll the windows down. The receiver module inside the car will most likely be different. Unfortunately, I do not know about the remotes.

 

When I turn my car on to power ( not starting the engine ) it makes this sucking noise that goes like sheeee sheeeee sheeeee, it makes the same noise while im driving, slowing down, or coming to a stop, and after i stop my car and turn the ignition off. I will try and post a link to the audio of the noise later. Anyone ever occur this problem?

 

Hey all, Im new here and have a question. Hope this is the right spot to post this.

OK, here it goes. I have been experiencing a choppy ride and poor gas milage for some time. I recently replaced my exhaust...right up to the flex pipe and cat...it was trashed and my maxima gle 01 was loud as hell. After the replacement it still sounded a little loud to me and I thought that I might have a small leak in my flex pipe. well, it began getting louder and all of a sudden my car was shaking at idle and all screwed up. I was convinced it was the cat converter. My friend said that was doubtful. This is when I began noticing my poor gas milage too. So I took it to auto zone and they said I had a misfire on cylinder 6. I have just changed all my plugs at 140K Had engine light on previous to all this and was told it was my P0440(Evap) sensor. Expensive to replace and not overly critical. Car was running ok then. So this is my status. Should I replace all my coil packs and use nissan certified packs? My friend is a parts manager at Nissan so I can get them at the whole sale cost......what about this other code the P0440(evap) is it critical? Thanks for any advice or help in this.

 

It is probably your coil packs, I experienced the same probs you got. Car keeps shaking on idle, rough acceleration do to shaking car, poor gas mileage. The thing is if your vehicle keeps misfiring, than your catalytic converter can get go bad.I bought a set of 6 nissan maxima coil packs on ebay for 300. You can also do an OHM meter test to check which coils are bad. I did this after i replaced all of them and found out that only 2 of the rear coils were bad. So i kept the good ones. I'm not sure about P0440

 

its not the dimmer, it seems fine, and those diagrams are a nightmare. i am thinken it is the control switch in the steering wheel.

 

Ok I am not even sure where im posting this but..............i have looked at the scematic on this car and im not all that good but. The climate control and stereo lights up, not the controls, just the station and where its blowen . the clock is lit up as well, and the odometer. once you turn the lights on, theres nothen. the clock, the glove box and dome lights still work, but noooooooooo dash lights. i checked the dimmer switch its fine i think. there is no illumination whatsoever in this car. the power window swithces, gauges, controls, absolutly pitch black at night???? Any help plzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Nigbomb

 

try unplugging your speed sensor drive down the road and see if the speedo registers I am pretty sure but could be wrong that the computer calculates wheel speed with the vss and wheel speed sensors but the problem is I have a output shaft sensor fault and I dont know if this is another sensor in the trans but I will go home and see if it is a p0500 thanks

 

My 2001 Maxima just threw up the P0420 code a month or so ago, for the second time since I've had it. Car only has ~51,000 miles on it, but is unfortunately out of warranty. I had the local dealership re-flash the ECU about 2 years ago and that took care of the problem the first time. This time I took it a mechanic that's done alright by me previously and he tells me today that one of the catalytic converters is shot (I believe he said Bank 1) and that both O2 sensors connected to it are so corroded (Or the connectors are) that they'll need to be replaced also. Reason being they're "Running slow" and they'll likely be damaged when removed from the original catalytic converter anyway, due to aforementioned corrosion (Thank you MA winters!). Total estimate - $1300+

I'm a total newb when it comes to this, but does that estimate sound right? He said the Catalytic converter itself is gonna run about $700 and the O2 sensors between $150-250. When I look online however, I'm seeing prices around $200. Since I failed my MA inspection, I've got 60 days to get this sorted out before my temp sticker expires, but I'll put a brake on the work if I have to. That's vastly preferable to getting ripped off.

 

hey guys,

I have been looking at this forum for a little while now.. but im by far still a noob.. well.. i just bought a 2001 maxima with 47k miles for really cheap bc the lady hit a dear and the hood is all bent.. anyways besides that the car is in awesome conditions.. well.. i installed a new aftermarket radio and now my air conditioner lights are not working.. like just 3 lights are not working.. the right side of the air direction lights. the LEDs do work tho. so i really dont know what it is.. well.. im sorry for making this so confusing and please have merci on me.. i searched and couldnt find what it was.. thanks..

 

Take out the radio and check the connections. Something probably became loose when the old radio was removed.

 

1) Get a second opinion.
2) Your car has an 8 year 80,000 mile emissions warranty. When is the original sale date of your car?

 

1) Yeah, I'm gonna ask him for a written estimate tomorrow. He's treated me fairly in the past, but the info he's given me thus far doesn't jive with the figures I'm seeing online (Assuming I'm looking at the right thing)

2) May 2001. Warranty would have expired May of this year if my math is correct.

 

Cheaper and probably illegal option. Find someone who's parting out their car and purchase a header w/o2 sensors. Make sure it matches your fed vs cali spec emissions.

 

Appreciate the advice, but I really wouldn't know where to start there. Plus I'm not looking to do anything shifty per se. I don't mind paying for the proper parts - I just don't wanna get bent over a barrel doing so.

 

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
So in order to fix these two things you can
A: spend 1300 and fix it or
B: get a o2 simulator and some resistors and simulate your secondary o2's for around oh 50 bucks and some wire splicing by yourself or
C: you can search online for the replacement cat you need which is the rear one, bank one is in the one by your firewall,

If i was you i would go with B cheapest and best way to get rid of this

 

Is the noise coming from your engine or do you hear it kind of behind you? If its behind you then it could be your fuel pump, next time you go to start your car have some else start it and put your ear to your rear seat, in the middle of it thats were your fuel pump is located, and see if the noise is from there. Otherwise check all your vacuum lines make sure none of them is loose

 

Hi, have a 2003 6 speed SE. I've searched a lot, but didn't find an answer.
The car drives well, has power, yet once it's warm, on the highway for instance, going from 6th gear to neutral will cause it to stall. Or if I rev it and let it idle, it seems to idle too low when hot, so it dies. Being a drive by wire car, it's not the iacv since there isn't one, the TB controls the idle.

I will try cleaning the throttle body following this procedure:http://forums.maxima.org/6848584-post28.html

But any other ideas on what could be causing this? I know the maf is often the faulty, but the car drives well either hot and cold in any gear, it just has idling problem.

Thanks

 

will do. thanks for the quick response. i will check it out today and get back at ya..

 

I need to know the same thing. I already have a cone air filter with a maf adapter, and im wondering if the midpide that would usually go directly behind the maf really makes any difference at all. If I were to add some small additional piping for my own custom shortram, all infront of the maf, would I still see the same gains?

 

My car was having a harder time starting each time and it was obviously a battery going bad. The last time I tried to start it I had to get a jump. I got home, took out the battery and had it tested. Test came up that the battery was gone. Bought a new one, went home and replaced it and now the car won't start. All lights, stereo, etc. work just fine but it won't turn over. No clicking, nothing. I was hoping it just didn't have enough charge on the new battery, but jumping didn't solve the problem.

I have searched and am sure somebody would have had this issue but I can't find anything.


Thanks