You can look in the classifieds to get guidelines. There are many 5th gens with over 300k miles, mine was going strong with 210k and I sold it for 1800$. My 5.5gen has 130k on it and runs out nice so just look around and read. I think its better to have flour than cake myself but I wont flame you in this thread. Read, read and read some more

 

Hello - I need to replace the struts on my '02 SE. I have the following questions:

1. I am thinking of using Tokico HP Series struts with the stock springs. Has anyone used these? Do they work well?
2. I am thinking of doing the swap myself. What new parts should I buy (i.e. strut mounts, strut bearings, boots, etc.)?
3. Will I need to trim the bump stops with the Tokico HP struts?
4. Any tips/helpful hints regarding the swap? Is this relatively straightforward?

Thanks in advance.

 

1. Tokico HP or KYB GR-2. Price is about the same. HP's are pretty much OEM replacements. KYB's are slightly stiffer than OEM - most prefer the KYB's for the controlled feel.

2. How mechanically inclined are you? You should buy 2 Moog K90655 front strut mounts (bearings come included), and OEM dustboots all the way around. No rear mounts are needed.

3. No cutting needed.

4. Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. Where are you located? I do suspension installs for a LOT of local org members.

 

Thanks for the info djfrestyl. Unfortunately, I am located on the west coast (California) or I would probably take you up on your offer to install. I am pretty mechanically inclined and have done struts on another car a few years ago (although it still makes me nervous to collapse the springs!) I just ordered the KYB GR-2s and Moog front strut mounts based on your recommendations. Off to the dealer this evening for the OEM boots (I assume the KYB units don't work)?

Thanks again.

 

The KYB's don't fit 100% correctly.

Here's a good writeup on installing everything:
http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html

Call David Burnette at South Point Nissan in TX. Tell him you're from Maxima.org and you need boots. He will charge you WAY less than your local dealer. You can even tell him I sent ya

 

I think the KYB boots work with a zip tie...but don't quote me on that. Best to go OEM to ensure a proper fit.

 

It's not the zip tie issue - though that does help it stay in place. The reason I avoid them like the plague is because the hole in the bumpstop for the strut shaft is ever so slightly small, causes this AWFUL groaning noise as it moves up and down the shaft.

 

The rear shocks on my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE have worn out recently, and are making noises. I am not good with cars myself, so I went to Firestone to get a quote on the repair. They estimated $658.15, for the repair including the alignment. Do u guys thinks this is a fair deal. The price didn't felt right to me, so I m just holding out for now. Can anyone tell me how much does it usually cost to replace the rear shocks. I stay in Texas.

 

Rear struts are $60 a piece (KYB GR-2). Dustboots are about 25 each. Parts are costing you about $170 shipped

$680 is entirely too high for JUST rear struts, even if alignment is $100 (but I'm assuming they're selling you their lifetime alignment for $179).

Find a local org member that can help you - it's not very difficult at all.

 

They are offering just one time alignment the $79.99 one, They have charged me $380 for the parts and $152 for labor. How can I find local org members. I m new to this site. Could u plz guide me. I would really appreciate it. thanks

 

http://forums.maxima.org/index.php#r...-maxima-groups

 

Oh and FYI, you can't align the rear of the Maxima....so they're DEFINITELY ripping you off with the alignment.

 

Thought of that too.

 

Yea - they're charging more than the cost of all 4 struts, just for the rears, and the fronts are more expensive than the rears!

Not to mention they're probably going with Monro struts...which are inferior than the GR-2's we're suggesting.

 

That's the Firestone standard, Sensatracs.

Just note, the regional office has the tire *****es (techs) and counter *****es (SAs) recommend struts/shocks on every car above 50k miles, so be sure that they're listed as the cause of the noise, not just a recommendation. If you went in for a CVI, the car likely didn't even get test driven, just pulled in and visually inspected.

Alignments are also pushed pretty hard, surprised they didn't try to sell you an LTA; that's a bonus in management's pocket for every one sold. If you do decide to get an alignment done and get an LTA (which is a good deal IMO, I've got them on both of my Maximas), keep in mind that the 'base price' (lowest corp will let them be sold at under most cases) is ~$115 or so. Sometimes they'll push them at $150, sometimes at $180, depending on far away from their goal they are. Lots of bargaining room there (and they will deal with you to upsell an LTA on any ticket).

 

I got my car on a lift today and first of all the rear 2 tires were showing some wire, so I replaced them.
The right front control arm was loose loose...lot of play so I bought one, but havent installed yet. The front rotors are also warped so I got some of those and some pads.

Its bettwe on the highway, but after the control arm and a proper alignment I will know for sure.

 

Can you tell me the difference between the two:

http://www.amazon.com/KYB-334265-GR-...2000&carId=001

http://www.amazon.com/KYB-334266-GR-...2000&carId=001


While searching for the rear struts. I found these two, but I m not sure which one will fit my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE

 

They both do. One is for the left, one is for the right.
...except you found the front struts.

Rears are 341271, you need two of them.

 

One is the front right and the other one is the front left (the picture on the KYB-334265 is not an actual picture; it should look more like the other one)

EDIT: Didn't realize djfrestyl had answered your question already. He's also right about your rear ones.

 

I've been on here for a while but don't post really. I bought a 2002 maxima se w/6 speed earlier this year. The guy told me that the slave cylinder needed to be replaced. I took it for a ride by starting it in gear and verified the clutch grabbed. I bought it, got it home and replace the slave and master cylinder (figured since I had to bleed the system anyway, just do it all. Still didn't work. I could start it in gear with the clutch down and not move and it would move once released, but second would grind. I pulled it out of my driveway and went up a steep hill and mashed it, clutch slipped like a SOB. so I pulled the tranny and did the clutch. It's good now, but it still grinds in second, I'm assuming the syncro is toast from the previous owner trying to jam it into gear with a bad clutch. This is my wifes Daily Driver, she typically just skips second and goes right to third, which luckily these trannys are geared low enough to do that without any bogging for the most part. Now I take it a few days a week to work and I can get it to hit second gear 95% of the time without grinding, as long as the rpms and speed are low. My question is, other than replacing the whole tranny, how could I fix this so my wife can have second gear again. She's afraid to grind and hurt it more. All the other gears are perfectly fine BTW. It's just second. Any suggestions?

 

I can only see 2 options. 1 - replace the whole trans. 2 - remove the trans, take it apart and replace the 2nd gear parts.

Depending on how bad things are inside the trans, you may have a lot of metal filings in the oil which would be slowly grinding up everything else. You could let the car sit for a day and drain the oil out of the trans and see how bad the situation is (or is not). If there are a lot of metal filings, I think you would be better off to get another trans.

 

Thanks, do you know which fluid I need and how much of it? I don't have an owners manual unfortunately. I'm thinking I'll do this tomorrow night while I'm changing the drivers side axle, It's got ALOT of play in the cv cup.

 

My key is almost to hot to touch when removed from the ignition switch.Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,Kevin

 

2.5 quarts of 75w85 (or 75w90), GL4.

Is the lock cylinder (not the ignition switch) also hot? Have you pulled the steering column trim to see what's going on in there?

 

Anytime I go over bumps it sounds like two pieces of metal banging together on the rear suspension. Any ideas? I cant get it on a lift for a week or so.

 

Have you had any work done in that area recently, by any chance?

 

None actually. I just bought it. 145k

 

Time to inspect that area then. I asked because I started hearing rubbing noises after I replaced the rear struts. Turned out to be loose boots over the struts. I had to use zip ties to hold them in place.

 

Will do that. Thanks sir!

 

When you say loose boots, were they OEM boots or aftermarket?

 

Aftermarket. OEM's were all torn and had to be discarded.

 

^^ KYB's?

 

I don't remember if they were.

 

Hi everyone, im new in this forum so sorry if im posting this wrong.

I recentlybought a 02 maxima with radio broken,im able to hear the radio FM using the steering controls but thats it, no power on the head unit, so i replaced it with an Alpine HU and SES cameon ( i know wat r u thinking) so i check the code and came up P0158.
so, i erased the code and drove aroud 10 miles and lighr came up again with same code.

So i erased again and I put OEM HU back and i drove 50 miles already and no light so far.
Has anybody had this problem before?
This is a non-bose stereo.
Thanks for any help!

 

If the sound is coming from the right side then you may want to check the exhaust. I know they sometimes become a little loose and clank, mine did at least. Probably something to check into.


On to my question.. I'm looking into doing an 02-03 front end swap on my 2000 GLE. I'm hoping to buy the headlights soon and I'm just wondering if there's anything other than the bulbs and ballasts that I'll need for the 02-03 headlights to work on my car. I'm going to be using HID. Is there a conversion kit or something needed to have the 02-03 headlights work on my 00?

 

Tried searching to see if this is a common problem but didn't have success.
I have a 2000 Maxima GLE (AT). I am having issues getting the car into drive. The button on the gear lever will not depress. My current band-aids that are still working are:
A. Take my foot off the break and then put it back.
B. Push the overdrive button.
Any ideas what my issue could be?
My mom's camry had a device go bad that detected a foot on the break and that released the push button.

 

need some help here, i was stuck in traffic and all of a sudden it was time to move and the car wouldn't accelerate, i would press the gas all the way down and nothing, so i turned the car off and started again and it would take about one minute to do it again, the only way it wouldn't do it was if after i had just start it i would keep the car accelerated. some one please help if there is a thread about this please guide me to it. thank you

 

Hello, I 'm new here & I have a question about my Infiniti I35's cruise control... about 60% of the time it works properly but, sometimes it will quit working & the cruise control indicator lights will blink. The manual says a "fault in the cruise control"...what does this really mean? How do I fix this? I use cruise control often & would like it to work properly.
Thanks,
Sam

 

One suggestion I have is to check if you brake lights are coming on when you have you foot on the brake pedal, while you try to the depress the button in the gear selector. If they are not coming on, then most likely your problem is the brake light switch.
I wrote a How-to on replacing that switch a while ago.

 

Your right. The exhaust was clanging a small bit. The BIG noise I heard was actually my rear brake pads. The previous owner or whoever did the work left the brake pad hardware off of the right rear and the pad bangs every time I hit a bump!! So Ill replace the hardware when it comes in next week and hopefully that fixes it. Ill report back. Thanks again!

PS. I looked at my struts and they are needing replaced also.