I have a 2001 se special edition. My transmission doesnt shift at all but can get it past 40. When i dropped the cover to change the fluid it had black like paper stuff in in but no medal? i got it scanned at autozone and a couple codes came up. Mass airflowsensor,shift solenoid, and oxygen sensor what should i do?

 

go check the recalls on those cars and it should tell u

 

You should do a tranny flush and replace the shift solenoids like the code said. You need to drop the tranny pan to get them replaced. I would then replace your MAF sensor.

 

I have a 98 Maxima, 135K mailes, and need to replace the ball joints. The struts are the originals, they don't leak but obviously are old but seem fine. Am I doing the wrong thing by just replacing the ball joints and not the struts? Its a pretty expensive endeavor so trying to save some cash. Thanks for the help.

 

whats up.. i checked out an 01 5speed maxi today and everything is fine but 1 thing. The guy has an ebay short shifter in the car and when you shift its hard . You have to push the shifter alot to get it into gear. Any ideas if this is normal or what. My boy deals with maximas alot and says it could be the bushing/shaft/gear box . I was wondering what you guys think?

 

Yo bro... i have a 03 max same color and have been wantin to throw the 6.5gen 18" rims on. Looks like you beat me to it... looks nice!!! Guess ima be a copycat, but I think I'm gonna get them black powder coated. Anyway man... car looks phat and very clean!

 

Theres some good deals on portable GPS this friday....i know around here somewhere i have seen people putting them in there ashtrays/change holders.....any thread on that?
Thanks
brian.

 

Hi All,

Noobie here looking for some information. I previously owned a '93 Maxima for about 8 years and loved it. That car was way ahead of its time in regards to the competition IMO. My question is unrelated to that car though.

Currently looking to trade our mini-van for an '01 Maxima GLE with some cash to boot from a private party. The Max is pretty hi mileage at 165k. Seems to be in pretty decent shape overall. However, I have one main area of concern....

The engine idles smoothly in Neutral. However, when you put it into gear (it is an automatic) and keep the brake pedal down, the engine begins to shutter a bit, the idle drops down about 500 rpm and you can feel some vibrations in the powertrain.

Just wondering if this is an engine mount problem? A possible tranny issue? And whether this is a common problem that has been seen frequently in this car.

Once at speed the car runs great, shifts smoothly, and rides pretty well for a vehicle with 165,000 miles. I'm just concerned about the vibrations in the driveline and don't want to take on a huge headache if that is an indication of a failing tranny.

Any info would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

Thanks in advance!

 

Hey guys I don't no where else 2 post this. Forum blocks me for sum reason but I have a really big question in front of me. I have an 'o3 stock 4speed GLE and I must have mnext car on stick. I luv my maxi and don't want E
2 sell it but what wud it cost me 2 change it from auto to manual? I can sell my maxi for about 6-7k here so the auto to mani conversion can't b. More expensive then that

 

Why not sell it and buy a manual? It would be cheaper and easier in the long term.

Search the threads, transmissions swap details have been posted.

 

Hey, i replaced My IACV and cleaned the TB on my 01 maxima and it idles at 1500 then skips from 1500 to 1700 quickly after going for a short drive. Ive read about the IACV relearn but cant find the right one for the 01. Also after disconnecting the battery for 15mins and reconnecting it it idles at a flat 1500 instead of skipping from 1500-1700. ANY help would be apprecieated.

 

What's wrong with the "Installation Instructions / How-To's / FAQ's / Product Reviews" thread, here? The links are all jacked up.

I clicked on the link for "OEM Stereo Removal and/or Install FM Modulator to OEM Stereo!!!" and it brought me to a thread called "I learn something new at every meet." that didn't talk about Stereo removal or installing an FM Modulator.

This happens to most of the links I click from the 1st post of that thread. Is Maxima.org's database corrupted or something?

 

What's up Ya'll.. I have a question, I have a 00 Maxima SE, i'm wondering if i can fit a 02/03 bumper and grill on it? Thank you...

 

My wife has a fully-loaded 2001 Maxima GLE that just hit 85K (the car lacks only the heated mirrors and butt-warmers). She bought this car new and we'd like to keep it a while, but we are worried that this is about the time things will start going wrong with it.

One weird problem we are having is the radio has started turning itself on. This started a few months ago, and now occurs a few times a week. It can happen while turning or while the car is idling at a light and my hand is nowhere near the steering wheel radio controls. Has anyone run across this before? I have considered replacing the steering wheel radio controls as they don't work so well--would that fix the radio starting problem?

The other problem we have is the brake rotors keep warping. We have had the rotors resurfaced before, and just had them all replaced. Every time, the brakes start pulsing again after a few months.

I think this is a dealer problem rather than a Maxima problem. We bring our cars to the same dealership, and my 2006 Xterra has the same issue. I have watched them use airguns to tighten the lugnuts, and I think they go way past the recommended torque.

Several years back, I had an old Accord that had great brakes with newer rotors, but they were warped immediately after I watched some untrained monkey reef on the lugnuts with an air wrench. I have talked to the Nissan service people about putting the lugnuts on too tight, but they totally deny it. For now, I am forbidding my wife to get so much as an oil change at this dealership to see if that makes a difference. Any experiences or ideas?

 

Long-time lurker driving my second Maxima (2000 SE) and considering buying back my first one (1995 GLE). i've been searching the forums, but can't find the info i'm looking for, specifically about V8 engine swaps for these cars. Either the VK40DE or VK56DE engines would be my initial preference, although i hear you can jam one of GM's LS-series motors in to almost anything.... i am aware of the need for some rather extensive reworking of the rest of the vehicle to accomplish this (e.g., transmission, suspension, etc), but my question is about feasibility, not difficulty. Is it possible/has it been done? Thanks.

Also:
Seconding this question.

--dunerat

 

More like a stock rotor problem. Like most cars, good aftermarket rotors are less likely to warp.

Riding the brakes or constantly waiting until the last minute to stop can also cause warping. Does your wife do either?

 

No, she's actually a pretty good driver--unlike my five sisters who scare the bejeesus out of me.

Neither of us ride our brakes and both of us like to coast to stops to save gas. But my wife has been known to drive a little fast. That's why she loves her Maxima

We got the new rotors at Les Schwab instead of the dealership. Don't know if they use better quality parts but ya can't beat their service.

Radem

 

Will drilled or slotted rotors work better ?

 

No. Brembo blanks.

 

I bought a 2001 GLE last week with 104k miles. Cars that old with that many miles are naturally going to have some imperfections on the exterior.

So my question is for each of these imperfections below, how do I fix them? Would polishing compound work or a clay bar?

I've never used a clay bar so I'm not sure if it would help with these imperfections.

 

What's up ya'll!! I have a 01 Maxima SE. My question to you guys, can i put a 02-03 bumper and grill on a 01? I know they body type is the same, so i'm assuming it's possible to do, but i spoke to several dealers and i got several different response.

So help me out!

Thanks

 

Posted in Audio and Electronics subforum

here

 

Hello everyone

I was just wondering if anyone out there has ever had the ignition "jam up" on them this means I can't turn the key at all and the steering is fully locked !

I went to go and start my 2000 Maxima today and I encountered an ignition that won't budge. That is the key wont turn to position 1 , 2 or 3 it is stuck in the off position.

I think both the steering is locked and the car might not be in park fully.

I once had the issue where the car wasn't fully in park and I had to turn the key a bit and put it in neutral then back into park in order to start the engine, but now I can't even turn the key so getting the car in gear seams imposable right now.

I tried turning the wheel to un click the lock but no luck, tried shaking the wheel a bit to loosen off the lock no luck.

I think I may have to rip open the steering surround and find the locking pin and somehow push it in, has anyone else had this problem? and how do you fix it?

 

Before you do anything like that, just try flipping the key, it could have a bad side.
This just happened to me when I got my new key cut.

I also had problem like this(with a sunfire mind you), where it was the button on the shifter that was buggered up.

 

+1. My key only works in one position.

 

I actually tried reversing the key, I tried the spare key and reversing that key too but still no luck.

I think the problem starts with the fact that I think it may be stuck in reverse

 

I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima that has factory Navigation. I do not have the disk. No Nissan dealer can tell me the original part #(I have contacted 3 different ones) I got referred to a site that has the updated ones. They said I need Version 5.5 CD5, is there anyone out there that can help me I don't want to spend $150 but if I have to I guess I will. I can't find it on ebay or anywhere online for cheaper. I just want my navigation to work I don't care if it's the newest most updated version. What is the original version that came with this car? I can't believe how hard it is to get this information so I figured the Maxima forum could help me. Thanks ahead of time. You can also reply directly to my e-mail frankjamesdavis@yahoo.com

 

Hi, long time lurker here.

I need a new engine in my 2000 max. There appears to be two versions of the VQ30 for year 2000. Are both versions a direct replacement or should I stick with the exact engine? I have the earlier 2000 version.


Thanks in advance. ANY advice about this job is greatly appreciated!

 

I noticed that one of my high beams does not work, so I went out and bought two new bulbs, which are the dual light ones. (Both of the low beams work but the right side high beam doesn't) The right side high beam still does not work, so i switched the bulbs and no luck, switched the relays and still the same thing, checked the fuses in the engine bay and both were fine. Is there any other fuses/relays I can check out or does anyone have ideas on what the problem could be? It's great that both my low beams work but it would be nice if i had two high beams!

 

First picture is egg damage and no, it isn't the yolk or whites that do that but the shell. It actually cuts the paint like little razors when it hits. Nothing but a repaint will fix that. The second picture appears to be a bird bomb. Bird crap is acidic, especially if the bird has eaten berries. By the looks of that one, you need to have that section refinished as well. The third picture, I'm not sure. I'd try some polish first, something like Meguiars ScratchX. Just make sure you work it into the paint and don't just wipe it on otherwise the mild abrasives won't be able to potentially remove the defect.

Clay removes bonded contaminants (like sap, overspray, rail dust, etc) but it won't remove paint defects like swirls or scratchs.

BTW, CarMax is notorious for putting nasty rotary swirls in the paint. You won't get them out by hand either.

 

Pretty much any engine can be swapped in any car given enough time and money. Probably be a really tight fit keeping the car FWD, not sure if there is even enough room for either V8 to fit sideways, especially since you'd need some sort of adapter plate for the stock transmission to bolt up.

You'd be better off, IMO, finding a wrecked car or truck with the drivetrain you want and convert your car to RWD. Going to cost a ton of money getting everything to work, modifying the underside of the car to accept a driveshaft and rear end with a differential.

What about boring and stroking the 3.5? I remember reading about a G35 that had the bore and stroke altered to make it a 4.1. That won't be a cheap engine but at least it will drop in place when it is finished.

 

It comes to the point that if you have to ask...you can't afford it.

There have been several FWD VQs with the AEBS kit going up to 4.2L and making decent power, and thousands of RWD VQs doing the same. There are a few kits out there for increasing displacement.

And of course if one searches for engine swaps or RWD conversions, one would get this result - http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...26-maxima.html

 

hey there the engine in the 2000 maxima is the VQ30-k the -k part means Improvement it is a different engine, although the block is that same for both the 99 and 00 maxima engines the intakes and fuel injection system is slightly different. the VQ30DE-K actually produces more hp !

from wikipedia I think it says it best

An improved version of the VQ30DE is known by the designation VQ30DE-K. The K designation stands for the Japanese word kaizen which translates to "improvement". The engine was used in the 2000–2001 Nissan Maxima and adds a true dual-runner intake manifold for better high-end performance compared to some earlier Japanese and Middle-East market versions of this engine. The VQ30DEK produces 226 PS (166 kW; 223 hp). The 1995–1999 US spec VQ30DE was equipped with only a single runner intake manifold.

 

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima - 122k mileage.

Symptoms:
Noticed the brake light and battery light came on one day. Kept driving a couple more days, then ABS and other lights. Couple more miles the lights dimmed, gauges went haywire and it died.

Current battery is only 2 months old. Replaced alternator with re-manufactured alternator from Pepboys. Drove it 20 miles and ended up walking home - same thing. Took it to Autozone and let them test the Pepboys re-man alternator on the car. They said it was pushing 9 volts, bad alternator. So I bought a re-manufactured Autozone alternator. Interestingly, both alternators looked to be from the same place. Autozone alternator was pushing ~13-14 on the car. *Replaced both belts while I was in there.

Drove the car on a 1800 mile trip - no issues. All highway, almost no stop-n-go. Not one issue. Thought I had fixed it.

This morning in stop-n-go on the way to work, the brake and battery light come on and fade in and out (previously they came on and stayed on). I made it to work where I checked my belts thinking maybe they loosened a bit, nice and tight.

I need help figuring out what could be wrong here. What is killing these alternators? Is it something else?

Notes:
I noticed the fuse to the power port (cigarette lighter) was blown before replacing first alternator. Probably not related.

MAF replaced several thousand miles ago. Probably not related.

 

Well, the plan is to swap it to a manual RWD, which yes, i know, is an excessively expensive and silly project, but i rather like my Maxima. Prolly be easier to build a funny car and just drop a Maxima shell on top, ha ha.... The current plan (assuming i'm going about this in the right order) is not to immediately swap the engine out but to start with more practical considerations, such as the suspension and the RWD swap. Those, however, i already know are perfectly feasible and have been done before. Acquisition of engine and transmission would be done outside the car, so that it keeps as little down time as possible, as well as making all the measurements and custom fabrications necessary for the installation. Then (assuming the thing actually fits) the actual engine and tranny swaps can be done relatively quickly. My question, i then suppose, is really more about if will those engines even fit into the car, since my apparently insufficient searching skills have yet to turn up dimensions on it.

As for the price, well, i'm not too worried about that. i started with the awareness that it would be stupid expensive, but i have a plan. (Yay government jobs i can't get fired or laid off from and come with a guaranteed pension....)

Also, after seeing all the new Altimas and Maximas driving around with their silly 2.5 and 3.5 emblems, i thought it would be funny to drive around with a "5.6SE" emblem on the back, ha ha.... (Note that i was already planning this out long before those emblems arrived, this is not a spur-of-the-moment thing.)

--dunerat

 

hello everyone I have good news and bad news but again things might turn out ok.

so get this I got my 2000 Maxima GLE running again after discovering that the tumblers in the ignition were out of alignment I would like to thank my cousin Sam for helping me get it running again !

Bad news I need to sell my Maxima it is just time for something different , a newer Maxima!

I currently have a VQ30DE-K engine with a nice muffler on it that produces a ferocious sound I love.

I was considering buying a newer 5th gen Maxima with a 3.5 L VQ35DE motor and I was wondering if all the mounting bracketry and exhaust flanges are the same on 5th gen Maximas.

I want to keep my muffler and trans plant it on my new beast so if someone could tell me what the story is it would be greatly appreciated. Can this be done?

 

hi everyone im new here to. i have a 2000 nissan maxima, been having it for bout 4 months. the car had a problem when i bought it, it would loose power all of the sudden n it wouldnt pass around 3500 rmps. the code i got was bad o2 sensor (po160) it was sensor 2 bank 2. it didnt fix the problem. the problem was the maf sensor, changed it and it ran like new untill now. woke up in the morning when i turned the car on it misfired and now it wont pass 2500 rmp. i have an idea it might be one spark plug and/or an ignition coil misfiring or just not working right. i replaced my spark plugs also. can anyone tell me any ideas what the problem could be?

 

dunerat-driving around a few days with a bad alternator probably killed your battery and now the new alternators are struggling to put out enough juice to keep everything running and charge up a dying battery. Go back to Autozone and have them check the charging system and load test the battery.

 

I have a 2000 nissan maxima GLE, and due to a careless mistake while trying to get a jump start, I'll have to replace the positive battery terminal fuse, as well as the adapter that attaches to my batter as well.

Im having trouble removing the fuse, ive tried tugging on it but it wont come loose, After inspecting the terminal I noticed a couple screws that may be holding the fuse in place, is this the only way to remove the fuse?

Has anyone had troubles similar to this, and if so is there anything else that i should look to replace.

 

You basically have to take apart the terminal because one of those screws holds the fuse in place. That's the only way to remove it. I ran into a similar problem when I was installing my ground kit. Fortunately that was the only thing I had to replace. I believe it is a 120 V fuse. Got my replacement from Autozone.