5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
02-16-2010, 03:58 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
You are right. I'm stuck on the whole QR thing because I was helping my buddy with the butterfly screw problem and pre-cat issues on his '03 Spec-V and I got QR on the brain...pretty pathetic of me, considering I've owned 2 VQ30DEs and now a VQ35DE...I am a "touch" retarded at time
s...sorryOn the "falling on its face" thing...it doesn't stumble or anything after 4k, it revs fairly smoothly, just no more power on tap. I know when my VQ30s crapped MAFs (all of my Nissans have done this...), they would hardly run. Is the VQ35DE different? Maybe because of the drive by wire?
02-16-2010, 04:03 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
I don't know about the ES bushings from Autozone, but I would guess that they are just fine. I've used ES bushings in a few of my cars before and have been happy. I'm pretty sure that ES wouldn't supply crap to AutoZone and leave their name on it. They'd probably sell it to some 3rd party distributor have the products relabeled if that was the case...just my $.02, for what it's worth.
The TL projectors in the AE headlamps would be really cool. If you end up going that route, take some pics...I'd love to see them.
02-16-2010, 04:27 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Stone Mountain, Georgia
Posts: 339
You are right. I'm stuck on the whole QR thing because I was helping my buddy with the butterfly screw problem and pre-cat issues on his '03 Spec-V and I got QR on the brain...pretty pathetic of me, considering I've owned 2 VQ30DEs and now a VQ35DE...I am a "touch" retarded at times...sorry
On the "falling on its face" thing...it doesn't stumble or anything after 4k, it revs fairly smoothly, just no more power on tap. I know when my VQ30s crapped MAFs (all of my Nissans have done this...), they would hardly run. Is the VQ35DE different? Maybe because of the drive by wire?
s...sorryOn the "falling on its face" thing...it doesn't stumble or anything after 4k, it revs fairly smoothly, just no more power on tap. I know when my VQ30s crapped MAFs (all of my Nissans have done this...), they would hardly run. Is the VQ35DE different? Maybe because of the drive by wire?
02-16-2010, 04:56 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 9
Question from NEW MEMBER related to a 2000 Nissan Maxima
Car purchased on 05 Dec 2009.
Mileage: 73125.
Hello,
I need help to find out the best way to fix the SES light in my 2000 Maxima GLE. Please read the below history since I bought the car and I would highly appreciate your guidance. I know you guys are experts and can provide valuable insight on how to approach this problem. I do not actually work on my car since I do not have the knowledge or the tools to perform the repairs but I read a lot of information on the web (primarily from the blogs in here) to educate myself and understand what the mechanic does to my car.
05Dec2009 – Connected OBD II computer and registered code P0160. Code reset and drove car for ~ 200 miles.
19Dec2009 - SES light came on again. Codes P1320 and P1614 registered. Car is turning on fine and no problems noticed starting the car. Codes were reset.
18Jan2010 – SES light came back on soon after pumping gas (supreme). Car has been driven for and drove car for ~ 300 miles without SES light. Gas cap was securely tight so that should not be the problem.
SES, SLIP and TCS lights come on simultaneously. After re-starting the car the SLIP and TCS light go away and return from time to time. SES light remained on.
SES went off by itself (no battery disconnect or light reset) and then all three lights came back after ~ 70 miles.
ALL three lights come on and go off when car is re-started.
SES came back and SLIP and TCS off remained off. Brought it to the mechanic and Codes P1320 and P1614 were read. Car IS NOT misfiring so the mechanic indicated that P1320 might be due to some sort of problem in one of the coils. However, since the car is not misfiring and we are not getting any of the codes to identify the specific coil, the only solution to get rid of the code now is to change all 6 coils which is very expensive. Code P1614 we are not sure what is causing this. The car came with an aftermarket alarm (Viper with remote start) and he believes that can be the problem but did not provide any direction as to how to fix it. I know there is a way to test a malfunctioning coil when the engine is misfiring by removing each coil and watching for no change in performance but since the car is working fine I do not think that is an alternative.
Mileage: 73125.
Hello,
I need help to find out the best way to fix the SES light in my 2000 Maxima GLE. Please read the below history since I bought the car and I would highly appreciate your guidance. I know you guys are experts and can provide valuable insight on how to approach this problem. I do not actually work on my car since I do not have the knowledge or the tools to perform the repairs but I read a lot of information on the web (primarily from the blogs in here) to educate myself and understand what the mechanic does to my car.
05Dec2009 – Connected OBD II computer and registered code P0160. Code reset and drove car for ~ 200 miles.
19Dec2009 - SES light came on again. Codes P1320 and P1614 registered. Car is turning on fine and no problems noticed starting the car. Codes were reset.
18Jan2010 – SES light came back on soon after pumping gas (supreme). Car has been driven for and drove car for ~ 300 miles without SES light. Gas cap was securely tight so that should not be the problem.
SES, SLIP and TCS lights come on simultaneously. After re-starting the car the SLIP and TCS light go away and return from time to time. SES light remained on.
SES went off by itself (no battery disconnect or light reset) and then all three lights came back after ~ 70 miles.
ALL three lights come on and go off when car is re-started.
SES came back and SLIP and TCS off remained off. Brought it to the mechanic and Codes P1320 and P1614 were read. Car IS NOT misfiring so the mechanic indicated that P1320 might be due to some sort of problem in one of the coils. However, since the car is not misfiring and we are not getting any of the codes to identify the specific coil, the only solution to get rid of the code now is to change all 6 coils which is very expensive. Code P1614 we are not sure what is causing this. The car came with an aftermarket alarm (Viper with remote start) and he believes that can be the problem but did not provide any direction as to how to fix it. I know there is a way to test a malfunctioning coil when the engine is misfiring by removing each coil and watching for no change in performance but since the car is working fine I do not think that is an alternative.
02-16-2010, 05:47 PM
Hello all,
I also posted this question in the i30 forum, however since the cars are twins internally, I thought I should ask here as well.
In the very near future, I'll be the owner of a 2001 Infiniti i30.
After doing a little research about the car, I learned that there is a design flaw that results in failure of the ECM. Apparently when the IACV, Coil packs, motor mounts, and some other things fail, a short will cause the ECM to fail. (It was noted that the IACV was the most common.)
Is this a problem with Maximas as well, and has anyone taken precautions such as installing an inline fuse to protect the ECM?
Thanks in advance,
Murph
I also posted this question in the i30 forum, however since the cars are twins internally, I thought I should ask here as well.
In the very near future, I'll be the owner of a 2001 Infiniti i30.
After doing a little research about the car, I learned that there is a design flaw that results in failure of the ECM. Apparently when the IACV, Coil packs, motor mounts, and some other things fail, a short will cause the ECM to fail. (It was noted that the IACV was the most common.)
Is this a problem with Maximas as well, and has anyone taken precautions such as installing an inline fuse to protect the ECM?
Thanks in advance,
Murph
02-17-2010, 04:46 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
I'm a noob to the 5.5gen Max and the VQ35DE, but not a noob to Nissan (Former rides: 93 Sentra SE-R SR20DE-T conversion, 98 Max SE 5M,
96 I-30t auto, 99 Altima 5M). I just bought an '03 SE 6M with 120k. I got a great deal on the car, so I expected by price and mileage that I would need to do some work. I know no history of the vehicle, but it appears that it has been well maintained and well kept overall. When I got the car, it had no SES lights, but did have a VERY slight miss at idle, but barely noticeable. When accelerating, it pulls pretty strong (though not quite as strong as it should, based on other stock 5.5gens I've driven) until it gets to between 4k-4.5k rpm, at which point it has no more power available-all the way until redline. I know that is not how this motor is supposed to be, but I'm not sure of the cause. The engine makes a faint whistle from 2k rpm on up, but it is VERY pronounced above 4k rpm. Also, when I get to 5k rpm or close, it makes a "thrashing" noise (similar to the sound of a GM pushrod motor when pushed to upper revs) like it is misfiring or not hitting on all cylinders. I've read the various threads on the "whistling", but can't seem to pinpoint what is going on. The car drove without major issue (besides those already mentioned, drives pretty well if you keep it under 4.5k rpm) and got 29 mpg on the trip home from Chicago to Dayton, OH (almost 6 hr after 2 stops).
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
HELP, PLEASE!!!!! I want the VQ35 to run like it should so that I can spank the blue oval right off of those annoying Mustangs with punk kid drivers!
Thanks in advance!
96 I-30t auto, 99 Altima 5M). I just bought an '03 SE 6M with 120k. I got a great deal on the car, so I expected by price and mileage that I would need to do some work. I know no history of the vehicle, but it appears that it has been well maintained and well kept overall. When I got the car, it had no SES lights, but did have a VERY slight miss at idle, but barely noticeable. When accelerating, it pulls pretty strong (though not quite as strong as it should, based on other stock 5.5gens I've driven) until it gets to between 4k-4.5k rpm, at which point it has no more power available-all the way until redline. I know that is not how this motor is supposed to be, but I'm not sure of the cause. The engine makes a faint whistle from 2k rpm on up, but it is VERY pronounced above 4k rpm. Also, when I get to 5k rpm or close, it makes a "thrashing" noise (similar to the sound of a GM pushrod motor when pushed to upper revs) like it is misfiring or not hitting on all cylinders. I've read the various threads on the "whistling", but can't seem to pinpoint what is going on. The car drove without major issue (besides those already mentioned, drives pretty well if you keep it under 4.5k rpm) and got 29 mpg on the trip home from Chicago to Dayton, OH (almost 6 hr after 2 stops).
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
HELP, PLEASE!!!!! I want the VQ35 to run like it should so that I can spank the blue oval right off of those annoying Mustangs with punk kid drivers!
Thanks in advance!
. I replaced the 3 front bank plugs and the car already has more power on tap above 4k. The rear 3 will come this weekend (as well as the obligatory intake reseal) and should restore my power . I still have a "whistle", increasing with revs. I sprayed carb cleaner around all seal areas of the intake and vacuum lines and they none appear to be leaking. I can't pinpoint the whistle to troubleshoot, but it is very noticeable while driving, but not when revving the engine with the car stationary. Could this be related to the EVAP (canister/valve) problem that is throwing the P1456 code?
02-17-2010, 08:00 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1
sarah2810
Hi, new user here. 2003 GLE 88k miles. Quiet pinging for a long time became louder pinging in last 2 weeks with check engine light staying on. Use premium w/ethanol since we live in a small Iowa town. Mechanic will be scanning tomorrow to diagnose. He mentioned several possibilities on the phone and I want an idea of what this is and how much $damage will occur.
Husband wasn't worried about the noise but has a hearing problem. And it's not ME.
Husband wasn't worried about the noise but has a hearing problem. And it's not ME.
Last edited by Sarah2810; 02-17-2010 at 08:04 AM.
02-17-2010, 09:33 AM
Hi, new user here. 2003 GLE 88k miles. Quiet pinging for a long time became louder pinging in last 2 weeks with check engine light staying on. Use premium w/ethanol since we live in a small Iowa town. Mechanic will be scanning tomorrow to diagnose. He mentioned several possibilities on the phone and I want an idea of what this is and how much $damage will occur. Husband wasn't worried about the noise but has a hearing problem. And it's not ME.
Husband wasn't worried about the noise but has a hearing problem. And it's not ME.http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=984636
02-17-2010, 01:38 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
hey forum i got a 2000 Maxima SE and it is throwing a P0430 code for the front precat and i was wondering if a cattman y pipe would clear my SES or do i have to bite the bullet and buy a new precat? i live in tn and have to go through emissions soon. thanks in advance.
02-17-2010, 05:03 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 5
Hi new member here. I have a 2001 Maxima SE that I am having problems with the dash gauge lights. I might go a week with just the speedometer half of the lights working, then the next week it might be the tach side, some days no gauge lights work and some days all of them work fine! Is this a bad gauge cluster? If I replace it, is there anything that has to be calibrated or programmed or is it a plug and play? Thanks.
02-17-2010, 05:46 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Stone Mountain, Georgia
Posts: 339
hey forum i got a 2000 Maxima SE and it is throwing a P0430 code for the front precat and i was wondering if a cattman y pipe would clear my SES or do i have to bite the bullet and buy a new precat? i live in tn and have to go through emissions soon. thanks in advance.
I'm thinking of getting a Y-pipe too.
02-18-2010, 05:38 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 23
Howdy, and thanks for this forum and your contributions to this community.
I don't own a Maxima, yet.
I've researched the Maxima 00-03 range on here a little and also on MSN autos
for reliability issues. According to MSN, the issues with MAF sensor
are not common once you are looking at the 02 - 03 models and VQ35DE engine.
Does that jive with owners experiences here?
I've had a short conversation with a used car dealer, who says the "emission control light"
came on when they had their 2002 Maxima out for a trip. I know you can't tell without
getting a code, but I guess I'm just looking for a confirmation on MSN's categorization of where
the typical breakdowns will be found for a 2002 model. Are 02 sensor faults common
for the 3.5L engine or is it only with the 3.0L?
Here is the link on MSN Autos:
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...xima&trimid=-1
I don't own a Maxima, yet.
I've researched the Maxima 00-03 range on here a little and also on MSN autos
for reliability issues. According to MSN, the issues with MAF sensor
are not common once you are looking at the 02 - 03 models and VQ35DE engine.
Does that jive with owners experiences here?
I've had a short conversation with a used car dealer, who says the "emission control light"
came on when they had their 2002 Maxima out for a trip. I know you can't tell without
getting a code, but I guess I'm just looking for a confirmation on MSN's categorization of where
the typical breakdowns will be found for a 2002 model. Are 02 sensor faults common
for the 3.5L engine or is it only with the 3.0L?
Here is the link on MSN Autos:
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...xima&trimid=-1
02-18-2010, 06:18 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
Howdy, and thanks for this forum and your contributions to this community.
I don't own a Maxima, yet.
I've had a short conversation with a used car dealer, who says the "emission control light"
came on when they had their 2002 Maxima out for a trip. I know you can't tell without
getting a code, but I guess I'm just looking for a confirmation on MSN's categorization of where
the typical breakdowns will be found for a 2002 model. Are 02 sensor faults common
for the 3.5L engine or is it only with the 3.0L?
Here is the link on MSN Autos:
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...xima&trimid=-1
I don't own a Maxima, yet.
I've had a short conversation with a used car dealer, who says the "emission control light"
came on when they had their 2002 Maxima out for a trip. I know you can't tell without
getting a code, but I guess I'm just looking for a confirmation on MSN's categorization of where
the typical breakdowns will be found for a 2002 model. Are 02 sensor faults common
for the 3.5L engine or is it only with the 3.0L?
Here is the link on MSN Autos:
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...xima&trimid=-1
02-18-2010, 06:29 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
. Let me tell you, it is well worth it and I will always have a Max in my garage. The 5.5gen are notorious oil users and all Maxs have their quirks, but it is all worth it when you smoke that guy in a Mustang GT with a family sedan
. Though I've spent a lot of time and money repairing/maintaining my previous Maxs, none have ever left me stranded. I limped my '98 home from work (59 mile commute) with a bad MAF, 1 dead coil, and 1 bad injector (all 3 died on me within an hour of each other)
. It was a rough ride, but I've learned that all cars have an upside and a downside. The upside and joy of driving my Maximas has well compensated for the time and money I've had to put into them. The ORG is amazing and the people here are helpful. Anything you could possibly want to know, someone has been there-done that. Pride of ownership abounds among Max owners and the ORG is proof of that. Good luck with your possible purchase, I just got my '03 last week and it is far and away my favorite car I've ever owned.
02-18-2010, 08:49 AM
Hi new member here. I have a 2001 Maxima SE that I am having problems with the dash gauge lights. I might go a week with just the speedometer half of the lights working, then the next week it might be the tach side, some days no gauge lights work and some days all of them work fine! Is this a bad gauge cluster? If I replace it, is there anything that has to be calibrated or programmed or is it a plug and play? Thanks.
Some people have had issues with their gauge clusters putting the indicator needle behind the pins and so on, and there is a cluster reset procedure you can search for here.
My last point is that if you're having random lighting issues, be sure to check that all the grounding connectors from the cluster are in place, conduct to ground, and are in good condition, before committing to a full replacement.
02-18-2010, 09:03 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
Hi new member here. I have a 2001 Maxima SE that I am having problems with the dash gauge lights. I might go a week with just the speedometer half of the lights working, then the next week it might be the tach side, some days no gauge lights work and some days all of them work fine! Is this a bad gauge cluster? If I replace it, is there anything that has to be calibrated or programmed or is it a plug and play? Thanks.
02-18-2010, 10:15 AM
Stuff has been omitted for brevity.
This is a classic "electrical problem" type symptom. Test battery, check voltage.
Fluctuating voltages in the system can lead to long, expensive, wild goose chases.
SES went off by itself (no battery disconnect or light reset) and then all three lights came back after ~ 70 miles.
ALL three lights come on and go off when car is re-started.
And this problem is intermittent. It did not fix itself
Six coils failing all at once is highly unlikely, and they usually throw coil failure codes, not a generic one. The generic codes come when the ECU is getting unexpected combination of inputs from the sensors. My old teacher always said to go with the first code the car throws - that's the most likely one to lead to the problem, although I am not sure how in this case an O2 sensor can have any say about the anti-theft code.
I would test the electrical system first, and test thoroughly - look for spikes. dips, upticks, not just low or high voltages. Test for dips when you power on high-draw items and how quick the voltage comes back up. Then disconnect your aftermarket alarm (depending on how complicated the patching-in was), and if possible, test that to rule out it being on its way to failing. As I said, power quality issues are typically the root cause of "ghost in the machine" type issues.
SES, SLIP and TCS lights come on simultaneously. After re-starting the car the SLIP and TCS light go away and return from time to time. SES light remained on.
Fluctuating voltages in the system can lead to long, expensive, wild goose chases.
SES went off by itself (no battery disconnect or light reset) and then all three lights came back after ~ 70 miles.
ALL three lights come on and go off when car is re-started.
SES came back and SLIP and TCS off remained off. Brought it to the mechanic and Codes P1320 and P1614 were read. Car IS NOT misfiring so the mechanic indicated that P1320 might be due to some sort of problem in one of the coils. However, since the car is not misfiring and we are not getting any of the codes to identify the specific coil, the only solution to get rid of the code now is to change all 6 coils which is very expensive. Code P1614 we are not sure what is causing this. The car came with an aftermarket alarm (Viper with remote start) and he believes that can be the problem but did not provide any direction as to how to fix it. I know there is a way to test a malfunctioning coil when the engine is misfiring by removing each coil and watching for no change in performance but since the car is working fine I do not think that is an alternative.
I would test the electrical system first, and test thoroughly - look for spikes. dips, upticks, not just low or high voltages. Test for dips when you power on high-draw items and how quick the voltage comes back up. Then disconnect your aftermarket alarm (depending on how complicated the patching-in was), and if possible, test that to rule out it being on its way to failing. As I said, power quality issues are typically the root cause of "ghost in the machine" type issues.
02-18-2010, 10:18 AM
hey forum i got a 2000 Maxima SE and it is throwing a P0430 code for the front precat and i was wondering if a cattman y pipe would clear my SES or do i have to bite the bullet and buy a new precat? i live in tn and have to go through emissions soon. thanks in advance.
02-18-2010, 10:23 AM
If it does, it's in the ECU. There are rev limiters in there for sure, but I am not sure about speed, other than max revs in top gear kind of things, and my 01 Maxima has verified >100 mph (actually >170 km/h) tickets, not done by me. I was told it drove nice at that speed.
02-18-2010, 10:41 AM
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
One trick is to hose a suspect spot (not the whole engine) down with something like gunk engine cleaner or (don't laugh) PAM cooking spray - basically something thick, heat resistant, that won't wreck anything, test drive, and see if things have gotten slightly better (obviously remove what you sprayed on after). The more stupid/courageous will run an unlit propane torch nozzle around where they think the leak is, and see if the engine idle changes to spot a leak.
ETA:
Other things could cause a whistling too - the belts, and make sure there isn't something caught on something that the belts rotate.
Last edited by homeyclaus; 02-19-2010 at 10:14 AM.
02-18-2010, 02:18 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: WA, USA
Posts: 3
Hi everyone,
My dad has a camry and he has problem with his back lights. When he puts his transmission in reverse the rear light doesnt work, but if he pushes it towards "Parking" a little bit then the light works. How does he fix this. Did my best to explain!
Thanks
My dad has a camry and he has problem with his back lights. When he puts his transmission in reverse the rear light doesnt work, but if he pushes it towards "Parking" a little bit then the light works. How does he fix this. Did my best to explain!
Thanks
02-18-2010, 03:57 PM
Sounds like the reverse position switch (guess at the real name) is sticking. It should be near, or part of the shifter assembly.
02-18-2010, 06:43 PM
Hi everyone,
My dad has a camry and he has problem with his back lights. When he puts his transmission in reverse the rear light doesnt work, but if he pushes it towards "Parking" a little bit then the light works. How does he fix this. Did my best to explain!
Thanks
Sounds like the reverse position switch (guess at the real name) is sticking. It should be near, or part of the shifter assembly.
I agree with this suggestion. On my Mazda, the screws holding the shift position switch are bean-shaped so that you can rotate the switch a few degrees each way for adjustment.
After taking all the necessary precautions like jackstands and other safety suggestions, have him turn the key on (but not running) and shift the car into reverse. Loosen the screws and twiddle the switch until you find the range of the "reverse lights on" zone. Twiddle some more until you find the middle of that range and tighten the switch down at the center of the range. (that way the reverse lights won't come on in park, etc.
Interesting thing... On the GF's Miata, we fought for MONTHS trying to get the cruise control to work. Turns out the shift position switch was busted, and never "told" the ECU that the car was shifted out of park. Therefore, no cruise, no reverse lights, no kickdown while driiving. A whole lot of not-fun.
Murph
Last edited by Montego Murph; 02-18-2010 at 06:48 PM.
02-18-2010, 07:52 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: WA, USA
Posts: 3
(I think the quoting thing got jazzed up...)
I agree with this suggestion. On my Mazda, the screws holding the shift position switch are bean-shaped so that you can rotate the switch a few degrees each way for adjustment.
After taking all the necessary precautions like jackstands and other safety suggestions, have him turn the key on (but not running) and shift the car into reverse. Loosen the screws and twiddle the switch until you find the range of the "reverse lights on" zone. Twiddle some more until you find the middle of that range and tighten the switch down at the center of the range. (that way the reverse lights won't come on in park, etc.
Interesting thing... On the GF's Miata, we fought for MONTHS trying to get the cruise control to work. Turns out the shift position switch was busted, and never "told" the ECU that the car was shifted out of park. Therefore, no cruise, no reverse lights, no kickdown while driiving. A whole lot of not-fun.
Murph
I agree with this suggestion. On my Mazda, the screws holding the shift position switch are bean-shaped so that you can rotate the switch a few degrees each way for adjustment.
After taking all the necessary precautions like jackstands and other safety suggestions, have him turn the key on (but not running) and shift the car into reverse. Loosen the screws and twiddle the switch until you find the range of the "reverse lights on" zone. Twiddle some more until you find the middle of that range and tighten the switch down at the center of the range. (that way the reverse lights won't come on in park, etc.
Interesting thing... On the GF's Miata, we fought for MONTHS trying to get the cruise control to work. Turns out the shift position switch was busted, and never "told" the ECU that the car was shifted out of park. Therefore, no cruise, no reverse lights, no kickdown while driiving. A whole lot of not-fun.
Murph
02-19-2010, 10:59 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 9
Hello all,
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
02-19-2010, 11:24 AM
Hello all,
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
First of all.. had to laugh a bit because "crunk" is what the rappers say when they're "crazy drunk." I was thinking back to the Irish Coffee scenes in "The Love Bug" and thought "well theeeereess your problem..."
But since this isn't Car-Talk Starring Flava-Flav, lemme see if I can help out here....
If I'm understanding correctly, your car doesn't want to stay running until it's warmed up. During the "warming up" phase, it runs very badly and the RPM's gradually drop until it stalls, correct?
My "I've never seen your car before" thoughts are threefold:
First: Find a different mechanic. With what code scanners cost these days, any mechanic worth his salt should at least have a $59.99 Harbor Freight OBD2 scanner. He is right that the dealer may have better scanning tools, and they could possibly diagnose the problem instantly. They could also charge you $185 in diagnostic fees after you're without a car for two days as well. Go to your FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) like AutoZone and ask them to use their diagnostic scanner on your car and see what that turns up.
Second is "Vacuum Leak" or maybe a vacuum hose popped off. It's likely to be one somewhere around the air filter if Nissan's are anything like my Mazda when it comes to issues during warming up. What I'm thinking is a vacuum line going to the air filter box (specifically the air flow meter (sometimes called an MAF)) that is not letting it open or close at the right time
Third is an engine temp sensor. It's possible that a temp sensor is either bad or has crud build up on it (and therefore insulating it from reality) and is not telling the engine "hey, it's cold in here. adjust thineself so you run better until it warms up."
Let us know what you learn,
Murph
Last edited by Montego Murph; 02-19-2010 at 11:27 AM.
02-19-2010, 11:39 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 9
Matt,
First of all.. had to laugh a bit because "crunk" is what the rappers say when they're "crazy drunk." I was thinking back to the Irish Coffee scenes in "The Love Bug" and thought "well theeeereess your problem..."
But since this isn't Car-Talk Starring Flava-Flav, lemme see if I can help out here....
If I'm understanding correctly, your car doesn't want to stay running until it's warmed up. During the "warming up" phase, it runs very badly and the RPM's gradually drop until it stalls, correct?
My "I've never seen your car before" thoughts are threefold:
First: Find a different mechanic. With what code scanners cost these days, any mechanic worth his salt should at least have a $59.99 Harbor Freight OBD2 scanner. He is right that the dealer may have better scanning tools, and they could possibly diagnose the problem instantly. They could also charge you $185 in diagnostic fees after you're without a car for two days as well. Go to your FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) like AutoZone and ask them to use their diagnostic scanner on your car and see what that turns up.
Second is "Vacuum Leak" or maybe a vacuum hose popped off. It's likely to be one somewhere around the air filter if Nissan's are anything like my Mazda when it comes to issues during warming up. What I'm thinking is a vacuum line going to the air filter box (specifically the air flow meter (sometimes called an MAF)) that is not letting it open or close at the right time
Third is an engine temp sensor. It's possible that a temp sensor is either bad or has crud build up on it (and therefore insulating it from reality) and is not telling the engine "hey, it's cold in here. adjust thineself so you run better until it warms up."
Let us know what you learn,
Murph
First of all.. had to laugh a bit because "crunk" is what the rappers say when they're "crazy drunk." I was thinking back to the Irish Coffee scenes in "The Love Bug" and thought "well theeeereess your problem..."
But since this isn't Car-Talk Starring Flava-Flav, lemme see if I can help out here....
If I'm understanding correctly, your car doesn't want to stay running until it's warmed up. During the "warming up" phase, it runs very badly and the RPM's gradually drop until it stalls, correct?
My "I've never seen your car before" thoughts are threefold:
First: Find a different mechanic. With what code scanners cost these days, any mechanic worth his salt should at least have a $59.99 Harbor Freight OBD2 scanner. He is right that the dealer may have better scanning tools, and they could possibly diagnose the problem instantly. They could also charge you $185 in diagnostic fees after you're without a car for two days as well. Go to your FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) like AutoZone and ask them to use their diagnostic scanner on your car and see what that turns up.
Second is "Vacuum Leak" or maybe a vacuum hose popped off. It's likely to be one somewhere around the air filter if Nissan's are anything like my Mazda when it comes to issues during warming up. What I'm thinking is a vacuum line going to the air filter box (specifically the air flow meter (sometimes called an MAF)) that is not letting it open or close at the right time
Third is an engine temp sensor. It's possible that a temp sensor is either bad or has crud build up on it (and therefore insulating it from reality) and is not telling the engine "hey, it's cold in here. adjust thineself so you run better until it warms up."
Let us know what you learn,
Murph
thank you for replying! and yeah im from down south so thats my excuse for saying "crunk" lol.
anyways, yes that is exactly what my car is doing. as far as diagnostic codes...will it show any codes even if the check engine light has never come on? also is there any way of testing for one of these things myself? im not a mechanic or anything close, but i can try, anything to save as much money as possible. thanks
02-19-2010, 11:45 AM
As for checking it yourself, since you say you're not much of a mechanic I'd respectfully say your best bet would be to use the FLAPS suggestion and go from there.
02-19-2010, 11:54 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 9
Well, it's hard to say. My Miata will sometimes store codes but not flash the light, although I honestly can't remember the circumstances surrounding it. I just remember plugging in my code reader once or twice and it spit stuff out at me without a CEL (Check Engine Light) lit up.
As for checking it yourself, since you say you're not much of a mechanic I'd respectfully say your best bet would be to use the FLAPS suggestion and go from there.
As for checking it yourself, since you say you're not much of a mechanic I'd respectfully say your best bet would be to use the FLAPS suggestion and go from there.
02-19-2010, 12:15 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
Hello all,
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
. My 98 Max and 96 I30 went through a couple a piece. If you drive it, will it go above 3k rpms on acceleration? Does it shift like a rock? Both of my 4th gens (I know you have a 5th gen, but still have a variant of the VQ30DE) did NOT throw codes for the MAF. One threw a knock sensor code, which is common any time your Nissan isn't running right. Sort of a "ghost code" or "phantom code", caused indirectly by another problem (i.e. misfire due to MAF malfunction, which throws a knock sensor code). Most junk yards will not return electrical parts (MAF), but occasionally I've found yards that will give 24-72 hours on electrical parts, if returned in same condition purchased. My advice would be to look for a yard that will do this for you and swap the part. This was my most common issue on my VQ30DE's and seems like a good place to start, considering your symptoms. If that doesn't help, PM me and I'll bounce some other ideas off you.
02-19-2010, 12:21 PM
I wasn't a mechanic either at one point. At some point though I got my hands greasy for the first time and it's been a progression of knowledge ever since then.
I think this would be a good first project for you if you are wanting to become more "hands on" with your car. Follow BuckeyeMax's advice and let us know what you learn.
Buckeye, is it possible his MAF might just need cleaning, or is it more likely shot?
02-19-2010, 12:23 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
Hello all,
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
I'm having a problem with my 2000 maxima gle. when i start it in cold weather with cold motor, it wont stay crunk. it will idle high right when crunk, then idle lower and lower and shake and finally stall, UNLESS i hold the gas pedal at about 2-3k rpms for about 10 minutes, or until motor is warm. as long as the motor is warm, i have no problems at all. i took it to a mechanic and he fixed fuel filter and pump(he said they were bad) and then he told me that i need to take it to dealership bc they gotta hook it to a computer and do something? im not sure, it sounded like bs to me. any help guys?
. Hope this helps.
02-19-2010, 12:26 PM
A while back I saw someone using an unlit propane torch for this very purpose -- open up the valve a little bit and point the end of the torch towards the gap area looking for the same results.
What are your thoughts on this? I for one think this would be better because of the less-mess aspect, however there's also the whole issue of propane floating around where random sparks may arc...
02-19-2010, 12:30 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
I know I've seen a lot of people with successful MAF cleaning stories, though its never worked for me personally. My advice on that would be to try it, it's cheap and it surely won't hurt anything if you do it as it is written up here. There are plenty of posts about this. If that doesn't help (it never did for me), find a MAF that is returnable and start there. I've got a very simple way to also troubleshoot your injectors that a blind monkey could accomplish, so don't feel bad for your lack of mechanical knowledge. That is what the ORG is here for, right? If we were all ASE certified Nissan/Infiniti experts, we wouldn't need to rely on each other for help because we'd have all the answers. You'll figure it out eventually and I'm always glad to lend a helping (or atleast I INTEND to help...though I'm not always right) hand if you need it.
02-19-2010, 12:35 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 43
Buckeye,
A while back I saw someone using an unlit propane torch for this very purpose -- open up the valve a little bit and point the end of the torch towards the gap area looking for the same results.
What are your thoughts on this? I for one think this would be better because of the less-mess aspect, however there's also the whole issue of propane floating around where random sparks may arc...
A while back I saw someone using an unlit propane torch for this very purpose -- open up the valve a little bit and point the end of the torch towards the gap area looking for the same results.
What are your thoughts on this? I for one think this would be better because of the less-mess aspect, however there's also the whole issue of propane floating around where random sparks may arc...
I found the carb cleaner made it easier to clean up the other "gunk" on my motor later. After finding no leak, I degreased and detailed my motor that evening. So there you go-find a leak or get a good excuse to detail your engine bay.
My $.02 for what its worth...
02-19-2010, 01:35 PM
Maybe I should clarify -- the torch is unlit when you do this. Basically you're just releasing propaine from the tank around the intake, and if there is a vacuum leak, the propane will get sucked into the leak and the engine will rev slightly.
Actually after some thought, I might venture to say that the propane might be SAFER than the carb cleaner... hear me out here.
When propane (or any compressed gas) is released, its nature is to dissipate into the air and dilute itself. When you spray a liquid onto a surface, it's going to drip down and pool up somewhere -- possibly on a hot manifold or engine block. Combine that with any greasy crud that might have built up on the engine and was just washed down by the stream, that could be just as (if not more) dangerous, don't you think?
I'm not a Hank Hill propane fanboy or anything -- that's just a thought that occurred to me as I was reading your response.
02-19-2010, 01:54 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: obx NC
Posts: 92
Hey can anyone tell me where to get this stereo adapter? It looks very clean and like it came with the car(I like that)
http://forums.maxima.org/6890182-post9.html
Also I have a 2K gxe with an auto tranny. Well my performance isnt what I thought it would be. It runs 0 to 60mph in 8.1 at best most runs were around 8.2 to 8.4(useing a window mount G meter. My 02 ser with a 5 speed would do it in 7.2 seconds?? From what I have read on the car reviews the max should be closer to that. I did change the plugs yeterday but that didnt help Any easy ways to get some more power(cheap) ? Another thing is the handleing. Its no where close to the ser. The max get twitchy on bumps and doesnt handle the turns as well either. The car is nice and it drives well ,it just I thought the max would be as fast and handle as well as the ser.
Oh if I cant find the stereo adapter will a bose out of a 02 work in my car(my stock radio died )
http://forums.maxima.org/6890182-post9.html
Also I have a 2K gxe with an auto tranny. Well my performance isnt what I thought it would be. It runs 0 to 60mph in 8.1 at best most runs were around 8.2 to 8.4(useing a window mount G meter. My 02 ser with a 5 speed would do it in 7.2 seconds?? From what I have read on the car reviews the max should be closer to that. I did change the plugs yeterday but that didnt help
Any easy ways to get some more power(cheap) ? Another thing is the handleing. Its no where close to the ser. The max get twitchy on bumps and doesnt handle the turns as well either. The car is nice and it drives well ,it just I thought the max would be as fast and handle as well as the ser. Oh if I cant find the stereo adapter will a bose out of a 02 work in my car(my stock radio died
)
02-19-2010, 02:17 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Hey can anyone tell me where to get this stereo adapter? It looks very clean and like it came with the car(I like that)
http://forums.maxima.org/6890182-post9.html
Also I have a 2K gxe with an auto tranny. Well my performance isnt what I thought it would be. It runs 0 to 60mph in 8.1 at best most runs were around 8.2 to 8.4(useing a window mount G meter. My 02 ser with a 5 speed would do it in 7.2 seconds?? From what I have read on the car reviews the max should be closer to that. I did change the plugs yeterday but that didnt help Any easy ways to get some more power(cheap) ? Another thing is the handleing. Its no where close to the ser. The max get twitchy on bumps and doesnt handle the turns as well either. The car is nice and it drives well ,it just I thought the max would be as fast and handle as well as the ser.
Oh if I cant find the stereo adapter will a bose out of a 02 work in my car(my stock radio died )
http://forums.maxima.org/6890182-post9.html
Also I have a 2K gxe with an auto tranny. Well my performance isnt what I thought it would be. It runs 0 to 60mph in 8.1 at best most runs were around 8.2 to 8.4(useing a window mount G meter. My 02 ser with a 5 speed would do it in 7.2 seconds?? From what I have read on the car reviews the max should be closer to that. I did change the plugs yeterday but that didnt help
Any easy ways to get some more power(cheap) ? Another thing is the handleing. Its no where close to the ser. The max get twitchy on bumps and doesnt handle the turns as well either. The car is nice and it drives well ,it just I thought the max would be as fast and handle as well as the ser. Oh if I cant find the stereo adapter will a bose out of a 02 work in my car(my stock radio died
)Regarding the performance. Dont compare the Max and Sentra. They are different chassis.
Why the hell would you want to put a stock Bose unit in? They suck *****. Aftermarket is wayyyy better.
02-19-2010, 02:36 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edm, Ab, Can
Posts: 57
Wood Trim
Hello,
I've been surfing this site for a bit now, but still cannot make my own thread and I don't know why haha, but anyways this may seem like an odd request so I'm not sure if I'll get anything back on it, but I have a 2001 Maxima SE 20th Edition, it has the Titanium/metal interior trim, however I would like to get the wood trim for it, I called Nissan and they told me that the only way they can help me with this is if I can get them the vin number from a car that has the wood so they can pull the part number because there computer wont show them if its wood or metal or anything, so I was wondering if somebody might be able to get me there vin number so I could do this, OR if they could maybe get ahold of Nissan for me and aquire the part numbers, OR sell me there wood trim haha, because I cannot find any Maximas at any wreckers anywhere and I want the wood haha thanks
I've been surfing this site for a bit now, but still cannot make my own thread and I don't know why haha, but anyways this may seem like an odd request so I'm not sure if I'll get anything back on it, but I have a 2001 Maxima SE 20th Edition, it has the Titanium/metal interior trim, however I would like to get the wood trim for it, I called Nissan and they told me that the only way they can help me with this is if I can get them the vin number from a car that has the wood so they can pull the part number because there computer wont show them if its wood or metal or anything, so I was wondering if somebody might be able to get me there vin number so I could do this, OR if they could maybe get ahold of Nissan for me and aquire the part numbers, OR sell me there wood trim haha, because I cannot find any Maximas at any wreckers anywhere
and I want the wood haha thanks