5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Yes, ~220 bhp. Probably 190whp, assuming it's a 5MT. They're decently quick for what they are, but don't expect much coming from a turbo SR in a lighter chassis.
yeah that thing was like a Chinese trapeze artist moving in and out of traffic, but i meant comparable as far as not being a complete dog on acceleration .
i can live with a 4 door sports car lol
where to buy spacer
I just ordered some 18x8 +30 offset wheels and Inoticed alot of you guys run a spacer on the rear to make them more flush. My question is what and where can I get this. I also have tried to turn the airbag light off with no sucess, how much does the stealership charge to turn off. I have a ses light on for a vis module what does the part do and should I replace in a hurry Thanks for all
I just ordered some 18x8 +30 offset wheels and Inoticed alot of you guys run a spacer on the rear to make them more flush. My question is what and where can I get this. I also have tried to turn the airbag light off with no sucess, how much does the stealership charge to turn off. I have a ses light on for a vis module what does the part do and should I replace in a hurry Thanks for all
been doing research on the 2000 Maxima and it looks like Nissan was having problems with the ignition coils?
does anyone know if Nissan went with a different ignition coil supplier? or replacing the coils will have the same result?
i'd like to know before going out and buying an A33 ....
will also do a search on this forum
does anyone know if Nissan went with a different ignition coil supplier? or replacing the coils will have the same result?
i'd like to know before going out and buying an A33 ....
will also do a search on this forum
ya i found a very informative thread regarding coil packs, but i still can't find one where it says they are updated or a better version coil packs...
oh well , the car i'm looking to get , the owner says he already changed the coil packs, so we'll see..
only thing i can see re: coil pack threads is, if you get a dtc P1320 and any combo of P0300 or P0301-P0306, replace defective coil packs.
so at least an A33 with 133k miles , is surely to have new coil packs.
i already saw Autozone has them for like $60 each
oh well , the car i'm looking to get , the owner says he already changed the coil packs, so we'll see..
only thing i can see re: coil pack threads is, if you get a dtc P1320 and any combo of P0300 or P0301-P0306, replace defective coil packs.
so at least an A33 with 133k miles , is surely to have new coil packs.
i already saw Autozone has them for like $60 each
ya i found a very informative thread regarding coil packs, but i still can't find one where it says they are updated or a better version coil packs...
oh well , the car i'm looking to get , the owner says he already changed the coil packs, so we'll see..
only thing i can see re: coil pack threads is, if you get a dtc P1320 and any combo of P0300 or P0301-P0306, replace defective coil packs.
so at least an A33 with 133k miles , is surely to have new coil packs.
i already saw Autozone has them for like $60 each
oh well , the car i'm looking to get , the owner says he already changed the coil packs, so we'll see..
only thing i can see re: coil pack threads is, if you get a dtc P1320 and any combo of P0300 or P0301-P0306, replace defective coil packs.
so at least an A33 with 133k miles , is surely to have new coil packs.
i already saw Autozone has them for like $60 each
A car with 133k miles does not necessarily have new coils; mine had 132k when I bought it and it had the original ones.
When you ordered your rims, you did tell them they were for a 02 Maxima, I only ask because that offset seems awful low I would have expected at least a +40 or +45 so you may want to recheck what you have ordered ... as for the airbag module it may just need a reset here's a link that describes the process http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/226960 ... and the SES light you have on you said VIS? or did you mean VIAS anyway did you have the code read? if so what is the actual code you have.
Vacuum diagram for boost sensor, absolute sensor...
Ok I have access to all data and Mitchell but the diagram is not clear... can someone please open the hood on their non-Cali emission 00 or 01 max and tell me where the boost sensor plugs to? Be as detailed as possible... and t's or plug or whatever!
If you want to verify that the coil packs on the car you want to buy are the updated ones, you can tell by a gray dot they have on the top. If they don't, they are the originals. Keep in mind that some aftermarket coils have a silver sticker hiding those dots.
A car with 133k miles does not necessarily have new coils; mine had 132k when I bought it and it had the original ones.
A car with 133k miles does not necessarily have new coils; mine had 132k when I bought it and it had the original ones.
awsome man, saturday when i got take a peek under the hood i will check for the gray dot or sticker on the coil packs.
one thing i haven't been able to find on here is , did Nissan update the coil packs?
in other words the original coil packs obviously were garbage, and if so did Nissan use another supplier ?
Also on my g/f's Infiniti G20 ( P11 ) i use Nissan oil filter p/n 15208-9E000 because it is longer than the 15208-65F00, i have read that they also go on the VQ30DE motor.
And if so , have you guys ever heard of using Honda oil filters on a Nissan?
Well, just as some FYI for parts interchangeability, the non S2000 Honda oil filter will work in leu of 15208-9E000, only reason why i know this is when i worked for Honda, i had to do an oil change on my car and just for ***** and giggles i wondered of the thread pitch was the same, so i grabbed an oil filter i had and tried to thread it on my SR20 engine and , holy fack it fit! So i used it for the full 3,000 mile oil change interval w/o any problems!
just a little tidbit of information i'd like to pass on in case someone by any chance lives close to a Honda dealer or can't access a Nissan filter.
I also use Purolator p/n PL14610 or L14610, this is the equivalent to p/n 15208-9E000 or PL14459 or L14459 or Honda filter p/n 15400-PLM-A01PE..
or you can just ask for an oil filter for a 2000 Civic...all Honda engine use the same oil filter excepct for the S2000 and the Insight ( iirc )..
look forward to posting more here IF i end up buying that 2000 A33...
Behind the glove and to the left it looks like:
2002 Maxima Transmission Question
I have a 2002 Maxima and recently the transmission started slipping between 1-2 and 2-3. Is this and ongion problem? I have seen some threads that suggest this is an issue. Is it the way the transmission is built? Will the transmission eventually fail. Aside from installing a completely new transmission, are there any fixes to this (kits, adjustments, etc.)? Anyone that could help would be appreciated.
small engine noise
i have a 02 maxima n last nite i cleaned n re oiled my k-n air filter, after i started it n let it run 4a couple minutes i started hearin a lil squeaky sound comin from the engine compartment(sounded like a little mouse squeak from inside the car) i wanted 2kno wut it could be n how it could be fixed....also i waould like 2kno of a great exhaust setup. my maxi is auto so i would like something deep with a low note if possible n be able 2perform as well
I have a 2002 Maxima and recently the transmission started slipping between 1-2 and 2-3. Is this and ongion problem? I have seen some threads that suggest this is an issue. Is it the way the transmission is built? Will the transmission eventually fail. Aside from installing a completely new transmission, are there any fixes to this (kits, adjustments, etc.)? Anyone that could help would be appreciated.
Hi all, just joined the forum. Picking up a 2k2 maxima soon and am totally confused on this whole bose stereo conundrum. I've searched and tried reading up on as much as I could, however I'm a total noob when it comes to audio talk.
In in layman's terms I'd like to know what it takes to replace the stock 8" bose subwoofer with an aftermarket one (using the same placement but utilizing the stock bose sub amp). I've read that the bose stereo components are 1 ohm so I'd need a 1 ohm 8" sub to replace it. Is it as simple as replaceing that 8" sub with an aftermarket one that is 1 ohm?
Thanks in advance.
In in layman's terms I'd like to know what it takes to replace the stock 8" bose subwoofer with an aftermarket one (using the same placement but utilizing the stock bose sub amp). I've read that the bose stereo components are 1 ohm so I'd need a 1 ohm 8" sub to replace it. Is it as simple as replaceing that 8" sub with an aftermarket one that is 1 ohm?
Thanks in advance.
seems your max is different than mine?
mine actually is mounted on top of the intake scoop under the hood and has a vacuum line running to it.
does anyone know what the Vacuum line connects to? And please don't link the all data picture they are not clear... just like this picture here...
Please someone open their hood and check were the vacuum line from the boost sensor goes.
does anyone know what the Vacuum line connects to? And please don't link the all data picture they are not clear... just like this picture here...
Please someone open their hood and check were the vacuum line from the boost sensor goes.
bose system ???
ok another question....my left front speaker stopped workin n i thought i blew it out. i tried out a new speaker as well as tried my right front speaker in that side as well n still not really any output, only the tweeter's playing(btw there memphis audio speakers). im thinkin its sumthin 2do in the wiring or wut not, can anybody help me with this problem???
ok another question....my left front speaker stopped workin n i thought i blew it out. i tried out a new speaker as well as tried my right front speaker in that side as well n still not really any output, only the tweeter's playing(btw there memphis audio speakers). im thinkin its sumthin 2do in the wiring or wut not, can anybody help me with this problem???
also the dash lights for the instrument cluster, how do i change them n wut kind of bulbs...
can i run my front speakers off of my head unit??? im such a noob
i came across this part the other day and am wondering how it would fit a 2000-2003 .... anyone have this aero lip made by stillen for a 5.5 gen???
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Stil...45_p-82474.htm
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Stil...45_p-82474.htm
just bought a 2000 SE , but i noticed when key on and bulb check, the SES light doesn't come on, i suspect the previous owner might have removed the bulb....
so where on the gauge cluster is the SES light located?
upper left? lower right? i will scan the DLC for dtc's with a scanner, just wanna know in case i get a dtc....
TIA
so where on the gauge cluster is the SES light located?
upper left? lower right? i will scan the DLC for dtc's with a scanner, just wanna know in case i get a dtc....
TIA
just bought a 2000 SE , but i noticed when key on and bulb check, the SES light doesn't come on, i suspect the previous owner might have removed the bulb....
so where on the gauge cluster is the SES light located?
upper left? lower right? i will scan the DLC for dtc's with a scanner, just wanna know in case i get a dtc....
TIA
so where on the gauge cluster is the SES light located?
upper left? lower right? i will scan the DLC for dtc's with a scanner, just wanna know in case i get a dtc....
TIA
aftermarket exhaust install on 03 maxima
need tips please went to install it tonight and ran into some issues pulling the axle back section out any tips would be appreciated so i can get my new shiny exhaust installed thanks!
im assuming high enough to curl it down? i did it at my friends well attempted bc my barn is snow covered and i didnt wanna work in my drive way so he used his worthless jacks....
As i was messing with it i assumed u have to curl it down but wasnt 100% positive i was getting it to the point where the flange was gettin caught in the LCA Bracing that it goes over and didnt know if it had to be loosened to get it out completly..
As i was messing with it i assumed u have to curl it down but wasnt 100% positive i was getting it to the point where the flange was gettin caught in the LCA Bracing that it goes over and didnt know if it had to be loosened to get it out completly..
2002 maxima developing a problem or 2
For a few months now every once in a while the clock time has changed from what it should be. It happens once every week or so. In other words, the clock is correct when I shut the engine off in the evening and when I start up the next morning the clock time is off by several hours.
Additionally, a couple problems have developed. This morning, my remote key entry would not open the car so I had to put the key in to manually open the car. When I got to work I was able to lock the car with the remote.
There is one more problem that seems too weird to mention now but I was wondering if there is a problem with the battery or the car's computer.
Thanks very much for any responses.
Additionally, a couple problems have developed. This morning, my remote key entry would not open the car so I had to put the key in to manually open the car. When I got to work I was able to lock the car with the remote.
There is one more problem that seems too weird to mention now but I was wondering if there is a problem with the battery or the car's computer.
Thanks very much for any responses.
'03 6M Lacks top-end power
I'm a noob to the 5.5gen Max and the QR35DE, but not a noob to Nissan (Former rides: 93 Sentra SE-R SR20DE-T conversion, 98 Max SE 5M,
96 I-30t auto, 99 Altima 5M). I just bought an '03 SE 6M with 120k. I got a great deal on the car, so I expected by price and mileage that I would need to do some work. I know no history of the vehicle, but it appears that it has been well maintained and well kept overall. When I got the car, it had no SES lights, but did have a VERY slight miss at idle, but barely noticeable. When accelerating, it pulls pretty strong (though not quite as strong as it should, based on other stock 5.5gens I've driven) until it gets to between 4k-4.5k rpm, at which point it has no more power available-all the way until redline. I know that is not how this motor is supposed to be, but I'm not sure of the cause. The engine makes a faint whistle from 2k rpm on up, but it is VERY pronounced above 4k rpm. Also, when I get to 5k rpm or close, it makes a "thrashing" noise (similar to the sound of a GM pushrod motor when pushed to upper revs) like it is misfiring or not hitting on all cylinders. I've read the various threads on the "whistling", but can't seem to pinpoint what is going on. The car drove without major issue (besides those already mentioned, drives pretty well if you keep it under 4.5k rpm) and got 29 mpg on the trip home from Chicago to Dayton, OH (almost 6 hr after 2 stops).
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
HELP, PLEASE!!!!! I want the QR35 to run like it should so that I can spank the blue oval right off of those annoying Mustangs with punk kid drivers! Thanks in advance!
96 I-30t auto, 99 Altima 5M). I just bought an '03 SE 6M with 120k. I got a great deal on the car, so I expected by price and mileage that I would need to do some work. I know no history of the vehicle, but it appears that it has been well maintained and well kept overall. When I got the car, it had no SES lights, but did have a VERY slight miss at idle, but barely noticeable. When accelerating, it pulls pretty strong (though not quite as strong as it should, based on other stock 5.5gens I've driven) until it gets to between 4k-4.5k rpm, at which point it has no more power available-all the way until redline. I know that is not how this motor is supposed to be, but I'm not sure of the cause. The engine makes a faint whistle from 2k rpm on up, but it is VERY pronounced above 4k rpm. Also, when I get to 5k rpm or close, it makes a "thrashing" noise (similar to the sound of a GM pushrod motor when pushed to upper revs) like it is misfiring or not hitting on all cylinders. I've read the various threads on the "whistling", but can't seem to pinpoint what is going on. The car drove without major issue (besides those already mentioned, drives pretty well if you keep it under 4.5k rpm) and got 29 mpg on the trip home from Chicago to Dayton, OH (almost 6 hr after 2 stops).
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
HELP, PLEASE!!!!! I want the QR35 to run like it should so that I can spank the blue oval right off of those annoying Mustangs with punk kid drivers! Thanks in advance!
I have a 5th Gen, been a member for awhile, but never posted. i have 15 posts and i cant start a thread. I wanted to introduce myself and get active on here. When can i start posting on my own about my car?
couple quick questions...
if i buy hids for my stock ae lights..and in a month or 2 buy projectors, can i reuse the hids? or do i need a new setup and should just hold off.
also autozone and advanced auto sells alot of energy stuff, comes in a yellow case, stuffs typically red.Is this junk or good quality.i know energy is generally good stuff, but i didnt know if they pawn off their junk to the supply stores and id have to go online for the poly or w.e it is.
thanks,
jason
if i buy hids for my stock ae lights..and in a month or 2 buy projectors, can i reuse the hids? or do i need a new setup and should just hold off.
also autozone and advanced auto sells alot of energy stuff, comes in a yellow case, stuffs typically red.Is this junk or good quality.i know energy is generally good stuff, but i didnt know if they pawn off their junk to the supply stores and id have to go online for the poly or w.e it is.
thanks,
jason
couple quick questions...
if i buy hids for my stock ae lights..and in a month or 2 buy projectors, can i reuse the hids? or do i need a new setup and should just hold off.
also autozone and advanced auto sells alot of energy stuff, comes in a yellow case, stuffs typically red.Is this junk or good quality.i know energy is generally good stuff, but i didnt know if they pawn off their junk to the supply stores and id have to go online for the poly or w.e it is.
thanks,
jason
if i buy hids for my stock ae lights..and in a month or 2 buy projectors, can i reuse the hids? or do i need a new setup and should just hold off.
also autozone and advanced auto sells alot of energy stuff, comes in a yellow case, stuffs typically red.Is this junk or good quality.i know energy is generally good stuff, but i didnt know if they pawn off their junk to the supply stores and id have to go online for the poly or w.e it is.
thanks,
jason
Get the entire setup out of an 02 or 03, including both lights, the ballasts, and the harnesses. I saw all the parts on ebay for roughly $300 last week (though the seller listed each light, ballast, and harness separately, all together would be about $300). That would be the easiest and most authentic
I've had really bad experiences with aftermarket HID kits and have found the best route to go is to get stock parts from a car normally equipped with HID and retrofit the parts to whichever headlights you like (if you don't want the stock 5.5gen look and want something custom). This will take some time, research, and patience, but it turns out nice. I retrofitted Acura TSX HIDs into aftermarket projector housings in my B13 sentra and it was really neat. Got a lot of points at shows for the retrofit work. I'll see if I can find any pics of the old beast.
Last edited by BuckeyeMax1982; 02-16-2010 at 11:57 AM.
I'm a noob to the 5.5gen Max and the QR35DE, but not a noob to Nissan (Former rides: 93 Sentra SE-R SR20DE-T conversion, 98 Max SE 5M,
96 I-30t auto, 99 Altima 5M). I just bought an '03 SE 6M with 120k. I got a great deal on the car, so I expected by price and mileage that I would need to do some work. I know no history of the vehicle, but it appears that it has been well maintained and well kept overall. When I got the car, it had no SES lights, but did have a VERY slight miss at idle, but barely noticeable. When accelerating, it pulls pretty strong (though not quite as strong as it should, based on other stock 5.5gens I've driven) until it gets to between 4k-4.5k rpm, at which point it has no more power available-all the way until redline. I know that is not how this motor is supposed to be, but I'm not sure of the cause. The engine makes a faint whistle from 2k rpm on up, but it is VERY pronounced above 4k rpm. Also, when I get to 5k rpm or close, it makes a "thrashing" noise (similar to the sound of a GM pushrod motor when pushed to upper revs) like it is misfiring or not hitting on all cylinders. I've read the various threads on the "whistling", but can't seem to pinpoint what is going on. The car drove without major issue (besides those already mentioned, drives pretty well if you keep it under 4.5k rpm) and got 29 mpg on the trip home from Chicago to Dayton, OH (almost 6 hr after 2 stops).
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
HELP, PLEASE!!!!! I want the QR35 to run like it should so that I can spank the blue oval right off of those annoying Mustangs with punk kid drivers! Thanks in advance!
96 I-30t auto, 99 Altima 5M). I just bought an '03 SE 6M with 120k. I got a great deal on the car, so I expected by price and mileage that I would need to do some work. I know no history of the vehicle, but it appears that it has been well maintained and well kept overall. When I got the car, it had no SES lights, but did have a VERY slight miss at idle, but barely noticeable. When accelerating, it pulls pretty strong (though not quite as strong as it should, based on other stock 5.5gens I've driven) until it gets to between 4k-4.5k rpm, at which point it has no more power available-all the way until redline. I know that is not how this motor is supposed to be, but I'm not sure of the cause. The engine makes a faint whistle from 2k rpm on up, but it is VERY pronounced above 4k rpm. Also, when I get to 5k rpm or close, it makes a "thrashing" noise (similar to the sound of a GM pushrod motor when pushed to upper revs) like it is misfiring or not hitting on all cylinders. I've read the various threads on the "whistling", but can't seem to pinpoint what is going on. The car drove without major issue (besides those already mentioned, drives pretty well if you keep it under 4.5k rpm) and got 29 mpg on the trip home from Chicago to Dayton, OH (almost 6 hr after 2 stops).
Yesterday, I got an SES light when driving home from work and thought it may help me figure this out. I pulled the code and got P1456 (no other codes present or stored), which is well documented in the org as an EVAP canister/purge/vent control valve problem and I believe this is unrelated to the other issues (besides maybe the whistling??-the canister is behind the left rear wheel and the whistling seems to be under the hood, though???). Could the EVAP canister/valve issues cause the lack of power at higher revs/noise? If not, I will deal with this later, assuming it won't cause any immediate damage or driveability problem.
HELP, PLEASE!!!!! I want the QR35 to run like it should so that I can spank the blue oval right off of those annoying Mustangs with punk kid drivers! Thanks in advance!
2. If it's falling on its face after about 4,000 RPM, maybe your VIAS valve isn't opening? It's supposed to open around 4,000 RPM. Another thing you could check is the MAF sensor. I heard they're not the greatest on 5.5 gens. Good luck!
Get the entire setup out of an 02 or 03, including both lights, the ballasts, and the harnesses. I saw all the parts on ebay for roughly $300 last week (though the seller listed each light, ballast, and harness separately, all together would be about $300). That would be the easiest and most authentic
I've had really bad experiences with aftermarket HID kits and have found the best route to go is to get stock parts from a car normally equipped with HID and retrofit the parts to whichever headlights you like (if you don't want the stock 5.5gen look and want something custom). This will take some time, research, and patience, but it turns out nice. I retrofitted Acura TSX HIDs into aftermarket projector housings in my B13 sentra and it was really neat. Got a lot of points at shows for the retrofit work. I'll see if I can find any pics of the old beast.
I've had really bad experiences with aftermarket HID kits and have found the best route to go is to get stock parts from a car normally equipped with HID and retrofit the parts to whichever headlights you like (if you don't want the stock 5.5gen look and want something custom). This will take some time, research, and patience, but it turns out nice. I retrofitted Acura TSX HIDs into aftermarket projector housings in my B13 sentra and it was really neat. Got a lot of points at shows for the retrofit work. I'll see if I can find any pics of the old beast.
but what about the es bushings?