Hi. I just bought 2000 Maxima SE (AT), 105k on it. So far, I love this car, and want to keep my love to it.

I read numerous posts about common problems of 5th Max; ignition coils, MAF sensor, TPS (Throttle position sensor) and IACV-AAC (Idle control valve).
The previous owner replace all 6 coils. MAF sensor it not a hard job and and not that expensive. TPS, I don't know about this very well.

IACV problem is the one that I don't want to see on my car. Especially bad IACV (P0505) most likely will fry the ECU and break my wallet.

Do you think it is a good idea to replace IACV before problem happens? Changing IACV will lead me to another problem (ie. idle relearn process)?

How common is the IACV problem? Does it worth changing before the problem happens or do I worry too much?

 

I have a 2000 with an AC leak that is hidden and dont know where to look. AC always worked fine then the car sat for a year and now AC is done. It can hold pressure for about 5 days; I tried the dye twice and couldnt find anything. Any thoughts? Also I put in a new battery and sunroof wont open anymore; any help would be appreciated.

 

I'm new, so excuse me if I've posted this incorrectly. I've vetted your whole site, but cannot find an exact match to my problem(s). I have a 2002 SE (Automatic trans) that I just completed replacing the spark plugs on (108k miles). Recall, my model requires removal of the intake manifold to access 2 of the back 3 plugs, so sensors had to be unplugged, a small coolant-filled line disconnected, and vacuum lines that had to be removed/reinstalled.
Upon reassembly, the car ran great, but then the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on! I've double-checked all hose connections and electrical connections, and they're fine. In a move I now realize from this forum was stupid, I "nudged" the throttle butterfly ~1/16" w/ my finger while it was apart. Other than that, NOTHING was disturbed.

Suddenly, when I next drove the car, it bucked HARD, to the point that the car's barely driveable, and I'm worried about damaging the vehicle. Following info from this forum, I reset the ECM, which killed the SES and the car ran great...AT FIRST. Then, it started the hard bucking again, and the SES returned. I also did the "relearning" procedures on this forum, to no avail. Oddly, it seems to alternate between running fine, shutting down, then the next time I drive it, it's back to the buckin' bronco thing. I've got a code scanner on order, but the shipping's been delayed and this is my ONLY CAR. Note that, unlike many others, my idle speed is stable and good, as it's always been.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Fins out the code for the SES light.


Also make sure when perform said relearn procedure, etc, that the car is up to operating temperature, or else it wont work.

 

In the meantime (still don't have a scanner), I used the old-fashioned "flash-counting" method. Kinda hard to follow, but I repeated it over & over, and I seem to get 0340 and 0345 (The zeroes denoted by 10 flashes each). If that's correct, the indication is for the Camshaft Position Sensors, Banks 1 & 2. I don't get how that has anything to do w/ my spark plug replacement job, and the fact that it started w/ the SES light RIGHT AFTER the plug job (which includes Remove/reinstall intake manifold) suggests it may be an erroneous set of codes? Anyone have any ideas?

 

I'm picking up my '00 SE 5spd this evening and would like to change out the stock heavy rims at some point down the road, retaining the stockers for the winter. I picked out some rims online, Motegi SP10 Hyper Black 17x7s with the 5x114 bolt pattern and 40mm offset, these should basically be direct replacements for the factory wheels. My question is that when I go to pick out tires for these wheels they recommend 215/50/17 instead of the usual 225/50/17. My limited understanding of wheels & tires leads me to believe that 225s should work just fine (and even 235s or possibly 245s) but I just wanted to check here first.

I'm searching on tirerack, btw. These rims are 17 lbs so I figure that's pretty decent weight savings over stock and they also look pretty good IMHO. Also, looking at the Continental ExtremeContact DW tires but if someone has a better recommendation I'm open to it.

Thanks

 

Thanks its it install , havent really noticed any difference except for a better tone.

 

Ok so i have the stock bose system in my 2k2, and i am not looking for anything more powerful. I want to dynamat the rear dash where the sub is mounted because i heard it makes a huge difference. People say they also notice when they dynamat the whole trunk, but since I dont have a bigger sub in trunk will it make a difference? If it doesnt where would be a good place for it.

 

It will of course help keep the sound contained if you dynamat the trunk... but with just the Bose sub, I wouldn't even bother doing the trunk. Definitely do the rear dash though. But, a word of caution. I dynamatted the rear dash and still had rattling... perhaps I didn't do it as good as I could have. Anyway, I have an Infinity Basslink in the trunk, so I just took the Bose sub right out and left a hole there (with the cover on of course, so you cant see the hole) for the Infinity's sound to come through. If you don't mind spending a couple hundred dollars, I'd recommend getting the Basslink. It's a sub and amp all in one... and a very good price. Not the most powerful sub or anything, but it's got more kick than the crappy stock Bose sub... plus, by having it in the trunk, your rear dash won't rattle. Just a suggestion.

 

I have a question about my 97. Its an automatic, but are there any simple mods to make it faster?

 

Y-pipe will give you the best gains of any simple, single mod on that particular car. Look into it

 

answer...post in the 4th gen section

this section: 5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-posting.html

 

I am new here and I have a question the I went to the car wash and they destroyed my ac buttons. Where can I find the parts to fix this?

 

You can also go to housecor's website @ shiftice.com....has some super great writeups on how to's....did the fogs up to run with the parking lights and LOVE IT!!!

 

OK so i just got done. If you note the time its around 615 in the morn and i started my rear dash project around 1.... Was a total and complete B!!!tch. Since i was in dire need of gatorade after i was done, i obv tested out my sub, and it def heard a difference. So much cleaner then it was before. Still questioning whether or not it was worth 5 hours of my time, when i could have been sleeping........
BUT yeah that looks like a pretty good deal. Where did u get yours from. And do you have an after market deck or the stock bose one. Since its infinity im guessing its hooked up to ur stock deck.
Also if you dont mind me asking, how did u get ur gauge cluster to look so good. Is it just many leds?

 

My 2k max has a rusted out lower rad support. Im doing an online search so i can find the replacement part or parts i need and i come across a "plastic radiator support". the website was www.carjunky.com and the radiator support was described as the material being plastic? anybody ever heard of a plastic nissan radiator support for a 2k max?

 

I have 15 posts. Why cant I start new topics yet?

 

This was your 15th post

 

I don't know, but it's Nissan p/n: 625302Y000 and goes for about $140 at courtesyparts.com

 

In all your excitement, you're confusing the CRANKSHAFT position sensor with the TWO CAMSHAFT position sensorS. What you changed is the CAMSHAFT one, but you said your diagnosis pointed to the CRANKSHAFT one. Please post a clarification. The crank one's under the engine, whereas the camshaft ones are on the ends of the heads (top of engine area)....

 

As an update, the car is barely driveable now; may not make it to the mechanic if I decide to go that way... New symptom now includes stalling and (possible?) trans slipping. Professional friend used industrial-type scanner to pull P0340 and P0345 codes ONLY. I've tested the wiring harness, and cannot find a problem (bumped during plug replacement job, but no damaged conductors found). Anybody got any ideas????

 

Can i hook a basslink or basslink ii up to my bose HU? Whenever people talk about it in post, they never state whether or not they are using an aftermarket deck or ut the stock HU. And on amazon they are selling the basslink for 184 and the basslink ii for 250. Is the basslink worth the difference.

 

I can't seem to find any thread on how to remove my shift ****?? (I have a cool tiki head to put on it) Or is it even possible with the reverse lockout built in the ****??

 

Ok so i want to get rid of the sh!ty fog halogen lights that are in the max but i dont want to spend the $ and go through the hassle of HID. So I have a couple of options. There is a brand called Halo on amazon and are selling a pair of h3's for around 20. Has anyone had experience with these? and also there is the PIAA alternative. On amazon, the price goes anywhere from 42-around 60 for the "super plasma." I tired googling it but didnt come up with great results, anyone have pics of these on their car? anything helps.

 

If your not looking to spend that much money, ddmtuning.com has HID's for $30 a pair and comes with lifetime warranty. i have had them on my fogs now for about 8 months and no issues *knock on wood* lol. But their priced low and lifetime warranty so u cant rlly go wrong.

 

I have a 02 GLE and shift **** comes off when u twist it counter clockwise so I think it should be the same for the SE? Yours might be just a bit tight but try this.

 

He's MT I'm sure.

 

lol totally forgot about MT..

 

Anyone wanna take a shot at this?

 

I would not try and plant a 245 tire on a 7" wheel. The sidewalls will want to be bursting. Now, a 7.5-8" wheel would handle 245's better. As far as tires go, I have no idea. They have so many different types that I do not even try to keep up with them.

 

To add to this, I also think +40 an 7" wide will look far too sunk in, as these cars have a chassis that already looks awkward with sunk in tires.

IMO, it would look far better with a +30 and 8" wide, that's just my opinion though.

 

If the dimensions of the rims match what's in the owner's manual, then using the tire size listed in the owner's manual will be fine 99% of the time, unless the rim is so light it can't take the weight or rotating mass, which is unlikely.

If you're going away from the standard sizes listed in the manuals, you need to to do the math, or try them on and see if they fit, rub, or don't ride right.

 

Quick question about a knock sensor replacement. As some of you know, I've been struggling with a loss of low RPM power in my 2000 SE. I've been dealing with codes one by one. First it was a P0430 code, and I replaced a precat that was bad. I also replaced all of the plugs with iridiums. This weekend, I tore it apart and cleaned the TB and replaced the KS (I had it at the dealer after the precat replacement and they told me there was a P0325 code and that the KS wasn't providing any feedback -- that it was dead).

So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?

 

You do not need to clear the code. It will see the KS is alive and well, and adjust accordingly. The code will be stored for whomever reads it next, but will not affect anything (performance, etc).

 

Well, then that's disturbing. I was hoping replacing the KS would be the solution to my lack of low RPM performance. If the KS has been replaced and is reporting properly, then it's obviously not the culprit. So the question is, what to look at next.

The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.

So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?

 

Umm, fixing the KS should solve your problem of lack of performance. Sometimes a reprogram is needed, sometimes it is not. It depends on the behavior of the vehicle after said replacement.

 

I see no problems with this. Personally, I'd go with OEM from Courtesy. But that's just me.



Anyone able to help this guy?

 

I read in a service manual that anytime you replace a sensor, you should clear the codes prior to restarting the engine, to allow the PCM to "relearn" how to read the new KS (or whatever sensor), versus relying upon "stored" data relating to the old KS. It's a subtle debate, and it may not matter, but that's what they recommended. Since the KS doesn't affect basic driving quality, you may not be able to tell the difference anyway.

 

Have you checked the Camshaft Position Sensors? I had the low-rpm problem, and mine are bad (but I threw codes P0340, P0345). If you're doing the MAF as well, I'd say clear the codes and start all over.