Yeah I see some on napa for $75. I'll take a look at those too. Local place said to watch out for chinese made ones but you say they are pretty good.

So I just rev up in park and unplug? I can't see any actual damage to the mounts and the engine isn't rocking so I may be ok for now at least.

Thanks so much for your help.

 

how about the lights from third party sights? they don't look too cheap upwards to 400 dollars for the ones with angel eyes, i am a fan of the angel eye look b ut if theyre crap id def fork over money for the OEM

 

I am thinking about replacing my whole driver seat. The leather is torn.

I found a set on craigslist for an 03 Max. I have an 01 and I know the 03 is a 5.5.

Will the 03 seat fit perfectly into my 01?

Also, is it a hard job?

 

Yes they will fit, and no, it's not difficult.

It's pretty self explanatory. Do you have heated and/orpower seats? Are the donor seats power/eahet?

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I figured it would be easy. Yes both are power and heated leather seats. Are they exactly the same (meaning looks wise) or would I need to get both the driver and passenger so they match?

 

A really annoying squeak started in my AE so I replaced the alternator belt and then the idler pulley when that didn't fix it. After it STILL was squeaking I took it to the stealership and they say it is the harmonic balancer (which apparently is one piece with this pulley).

I'm trying to decide if I want to try and do this myself or possibly find the part aftermarket (they quoted $300) and have them install it (quoted another $200 for labor).

 

They're lying, it's probably a PS belt.

Yes, you would need both passenger and driver sides because if not then the adjustment on each would be near the center console.

 

I didnt think of that....and i did look in there once for a separate issue long time ago. Can u give thr fsm page pls?

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

 

Got it! Thank you!

 

any insight if there are any good companies/sites that make good angel eye/projector headlights for 5th gen? that aren't from ebay

 

Which brand on rockauto? They have DEA, Beck, and Anchor. One of them is only $25.

And I can't see your sig.

 

Go with OEM. They may be projectors, but the optics are still crap.

 

Any of those brands should be fine - what's the warranty?

Signatures don't appear in every post, but regardless, this is my product which I've developed - a replacement spare tire cover.

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...tion-sale.html

If interested in purchasing one, PM me

 

I got my black housing projector headlights from ebay about 2 years ago. They good... I paid 175 i think

 

I got my black housing projector headlights from ebay about 2 years ago. They good... I paid 175 i think

 

This forum is a godsend. I understand i'm a newbie, but have a question I have yet to search out. Can someone please tell me what the vacuum acutated device is on the front side of the upper intake manifold? Would a hissing sound from the seal of the shaft of this device constitue a "large vacuum leak". thanks for any replies.

 

I the thing you are referring to is on the passenger side down towards the lower intake manifold, that is the VIAS Control Solenoid valve.

Any vacuum leak is not good but without seeing it in person, I cannot say if it is a "large vacuum leak".

 

I have code 1320 and am desperately trying to correct it. The plugs and coils have been changed along with the MAF sensor and several hundred other "cleanings and repairs" to the throttle body that several different mechanics have "recommended" including two different dealers.

I am planning to change thermostat today in hopes that it is keeping car too cool too long and therefore manipulating fuel mix incorrectly causing these misfires. I only get the sputtering synonymous with the 1320 code about 15 or 20% of starts and it always goes away with some freeway time (warming up?). My question about trying this is should I even bother with the "2nd" thermostat? Info on this thing is not abundant and often conflicting so I am not sure.

2nd question: How long should I wait to see if this fixed anything? What is a drive cycle? Should I clear the codes with my scanner or let the ECU clear it?

3rd question: With regard to gapping plugs a bit thinner than recommended, has anyone had success or even an opinion here? I have read one thread suggesting it but there seemed nothing definitive on whether or not it was a good idea. I am not seeking performance here, just a solution for these misfires.

Thanks in advance

 

I think you're on the right track with the 1320. With that in mind, I'm only going to address that. First things first. You know? Most basic code readers can also read common values. ie engine temps With the 1320, you're looking at the thermostat or the engine temp sensor. A malfunctioning tstat can cause the actual engine temperature sensor to reach operating temperature which can cause a rich fuel condition. I'll give you a couple anecdotes so it's easier to relate.

This has happened to me on my '02, but it was only noticeable in the mornings in the winter because I live in a warm climate. I removed the tstat, because I didn't have fluctuating temp readings. Sure enough, the tstat was stuck open. I managed to get it operating again, but threw in a new one from Southpoint(I use Gunn now) because I was at 125k and was in there anyway.

A month later, the other scenario happened to my wife's Audi. It also had developed a fuel mixture problem. I scanned the ECU values once the car had time to warm up and found the temp reading to be fluctuating chaotically between 75° and 220ºF. I purchased a new ECT sensor, replaced it, and the car has been running beautifully since.

The lesson here is to take your time and diagnose things rather than throw parts at your car. If shops(even dealerships) are guessing, it may be time to change shops. Reference the FSM and you'll find the solution may be simple.

 

thank you for your help. I started this quest with the max about 2 years ago. I had the shakes, knew it was coils, and took it to an Indy that I usually go to. They assured me that I did not need new coils and told me they put a whole new set on and the car still had the shakes. So I knew then I had to go somewhere else. Were they trying to help, yes maybe but changing hem one at a time would have been smarter. Instead they talked me into MAFS (new) for which I had no code, and a through throttle body cleansing, of which they said was very necessary. When that did not fix the issue (no change whatsoever) they decided I needed two coils in the front (even #'s) and then called me again to tell em that they were stumped. They refunded almost 50% of the charged $1100 cost at this point. There was a tuneup involved as well and later I found out they put the wrong plugs in. I had the same happen at two dealers. They all wanted to throw parts at it and they all said change all the coils.

Hell, I can do that. so I ordered them and put them in. Still not perfect but much better. I was able to inspect last year by pulling into an Indy inspection station, showing him that my SES was on and did work and then running 50 highway miles after clearing it with my scanner. This year no such luck. Car keep saying its not ready. The O2, EGR, Cat, and Evap are not ready.

So I am stuck I guess. Buy more plugs? They look OK but not news Buy more coils? I changed out two front and one rear yesterday.

I did replace the thermostat yesterday. I also gapped all my plugs which still looked decent at .030-.032 to see if that would help. I changed the oil as well and CRC'd the one year old MAF. During test light came on and off and then blinked with 1320 and 0300. I also got an 0305 momentarily but it went away. 5 was one of the coils I switched earlier in the day.

Today I CRC MAF cleaned the 6 harness connectors for the coil packs and put some dialectric grease on the connection. I read somewhere that that helped a guy who was being told to buy 6 more coils. I also left the negative terminal unattached for about an hour and a half based on what I have read here about "resetting" the ECM.

Test drive jsut now showed the same in temperature with the new thermo, but severely lacked power and was very rough.

This is the worst yet. I never felt like it was going to fail but it gave me a real shake at the stops and dropped RPM to 550-600. In neutral RPM's are fine and there is very little, barely noticeable shaking.

The SES light flashed almost the whole 5 mile circuit. I babied it even letting it come to a stop on its own in my neighborhood. The idle would not make it go anymore on a fairly level but slightly uphill grade.

Pulling into drive SES not only stopped blinking but went away. Could it be? The car was still shaking in drive with brake on and i pulled codes only to get a new one.

Add 0105 to the list with 1320 and 0300 now.

About to go to dealer tomorrow and sign the back of my kid's birth certificate to get this damn car fixed unless you guys have any suggestions.

I know I know. Stickies and FAQ's. I have read it all. Unfortunately lots of the older threads have dead links and hyperlinks with arbitrary and unrelated destinations. And the search function will turn up stuff where some other poor sap like me gets slapped around for not "searching the stickies" so I am pouring it out here.

Moneypit? or Paperweight?

Where to go from here. Car is '00 se, AT, no mods. It used to get driven a lot and thoroughly enjoyed. Now it sits and waits for its master to have a brainstorm or windfall of cash to throw at it.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

Check out the problem with the P0105 code first. This is an odd one because it is the absolute pressure sensor. I would recommend you check the FSM. You can download it from the link below.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000/

Good luck...you can either self-diagnose and spend a lot of time to save a lot of dough, or you can drop it off at the dealer to have them diagnose and hopefully repair which will cost you an arm and a leg, but not a lot of time on your part.

 

Can anyone tell me if this first MAF sensor on this website would be a suitable replacement for my stock MAF?

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ss_sensor.html

Thank you,

Charlie

 

i will focus on 0105 first

just fyi

i went on another 5 mile circuit with AC on this time and got the following:

almost immediately I got a SES flash and pulled over to check code. It threw a 1320 and 0306 this time. By the time I stopped completely before checking the code the flashing stopped and lamp was off.

I pulled onto highway and saw nothing until I changed into 4th. Lamp flashed maybe 6 times and turned off altogether before I could even get off on a ramp.

Took exit ramp anyway to head back home and had a similar flash of about 6-8 times while I got up to speed and then it stopped.

It did this on surface street intermittently and the lamp never stayed on. I stopped to pick up something from a store and checked codes again getting only the 1320.

Drove home and saw a 5-8 flash series here and there (2.5 miles@ 40mph tops), erased and pulled codes again getting only the 1320.

I am almost certain that the flashing code started at gear changes. I also noticed that change from 1st to 2nd was not violent but pronounced. Almost like the car could not wait to get to a higher gear and just took off. The shakes were not as violent as the previous same 5 mile circuit at stops and the rpm variance was not as great between P/Neutral and Drive either. It dropped to about 600 from the 7-725 it idles at in neutral.

Also I hear this whirring dentist drill sound when I accelerate from stop and when I come to a stop. It sounds like the engine is compensating or adjusting in some way. Really strange sound.

 

There are only a few things that can cause misfires...plugs, coils, ECU. I'm assuming you have some bad coils in there as opposed to a bad ECU. What ignition coils did you replace them with? Did you replace them with stock grey dot, or go with an aftermarket? If you went with aftermarket I'm 100% willing to bet you it is those coils as they have been known to be not so great quality (hit and miss).

 

is torque steer common with maximas? im looking at an 03 maxima and the dealer warned me that it has torque steer and people who drove it aren't familiar with maximas because "most maximas have torque steer" is he jerking my chain or is it a common issue?

 

It is common and it caused by the uneven length between the two driveshafts. Typical FWD problem...not just the Maxima. You feel it more in the Maxima due to the higher torque.

 

I have an '01 AE manual. I'm considering doing the 17 timing advance. I've used the search function, but I didn't find much info on manuals (lots on autos though). What could I expect from a timing advance to 17 with a manual? Car is completely stock.

 

Hwy guys hope everyone is having a good day! I found a new problem in my aging max. Its a thud noise coming from the front end. Passanger side to be more precise. We can discard end links since its not a clunk noise and had end links, struts and tie rod ends replaced not to long ago. The noise started about a week ago but sounds like its becoming louder. It maibly happens when the wheels are turned and i go over a speed bump or driveway bump. im thinking strut mount since i didnt change that when i replaced the struts. However i had someone turned the wheel while i watched the mount and the nut does not wobble. Second thing i thought was bolt joint. It doesnt look bad althout the boot its cracked but still looks good. Any advice?

 

You could check the LCA bushings. Also a bad motor mount could do that.

 

Lca as in lower control arm? And how can i know whether the pass side mount is bad? Looks good from the outside....

 

Hi everybody i have been looking around and dont know what to look for for a aftermarket heads up display unit for my maxima and i would like help fuguring out if i can get one or not and where i can find one.

 

Looking at these mounts for my 01 i30. I see front (right), rear, and transmission, but nothing for left. Is it the same as right?

http://bit.ly/Hd7ztn

 

Why? Wiring one up would probably be a nightmare.

 

Look for any cracking or tearing in the mount bushing.

 

I believe your i30 almost the same as my 01 max mechanically. Being said that yes theres only 3 mounts. The driver side (left) is the transmission mount located under the air box. Passanger side ( possibly the cause for my noise problem) or right is for the engibe and easy access. And theres a rear one that can be acces from underneath the car not sure the exact location.

Can anyone confirm thou whether his 01 i30 is the same mechanically as my 01 max?

 

Also found these which would retain the electronic control for $175.

http://amzn.to/HcYpRg

 

In the link you provided the one that said front is the passanger side one. Transmission is the driver side and rear back of the engine from underneath. They look just like mine.

 

Yes, they're mechanically the same. That being said, both his car and yours has 4 mounts. Two on the crossmember, one on the timing cover, and one on the trans.

 

Oh ok. Thx! Ive given it some thought and im inclining toward thr mount. Cause the bolt joint even thou the boot has a small tear (not open yet but like when the robber looks like its gonna break) so still hanging there and thats how it was when i changed my end links a coupla months ago. The strut mount looks in good shape and the centre nut still centre and it doesnt move or wobble when the wheel is turning.