I looked over the writeup for the procedure, looks time consuming to say the least. Unfortunately I don't have PM privileges, must be because this is only my second forum post.

 

yea i was jus curious i this has been brought up before but i have a 2000 SE Maxima and i was wondering what was the best gas to put in it, i alwatz use 89 but they say that 93 is better??? thanks

 

I believe the owner's manual says use 91 octane - use the premium.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....377#post740377

 

Yeah, you need 15 posts to be able to PM. 15 constructive posts, that is.

Can you send emails maybe?

http://forums.maxima.org/sendmessage...ilmember&u=232

If not, maybe post your specific questions here and some of us can try to help, or even direct Polo here.

 

bump for freaking noobs.....

 

How do you put 02-03 headlights on a 2000 max. Are there any mods or do they fit naturally. Please Help!!!!

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....636#post493636

 

Sorry for being hard on ya. Would appreciate some tips on how to use the site better. Thanks again

 

THAT LINK DOESNT ANSWER MY QUESTION ABOUT THE HEADLIGHTS. IT IS TALKING ABOUT WIRING THE HIGH BEAMS.

 

Hard on me?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=253409

 

are there any other links on the 2000 headlight conversion to the 02-03 headlights.

 

It's not letting me go to that site. It says I am not authorized?

 

PM Puppetmaster for your headlight question: http://forums.maxima.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=38928

 

I have a somewhat serious problem.
My 02 Max is making a really sickening grinding noise on the left front side when I slow down sometimes (not all the time - usually when I'm turning, but not always). I just replaced the front rotors and pads.
I do have a blown strut on the left front, that's been blown for about a month (had to save for new struts - just got my Tokico Hps, waiting on the Tein H-Techs to get here to install it all). It's obviously been kind of wobbling, causing the brake to wear the rotor unevenly (the passenger side is fine). Unfortunately, it was making this noise slightly before the strut blew. I checked for wheel wobble on jacks to see if it was the bearing, no wobble or movement at all.
Any ideas?
Oh, I did notice when I took the old pads off, the pad I took off the driver's side had a deep imprint of the caliper, like the caliper had gotten really hot and melted into the shim.

 

i'm about to do the custom AE mod to my old set of headlights, should i leave the bulbs and seals in place when i heat it in the oven, or should i take them out.

 

take off anything that can be removed

 

....I would say yes, without question to taking out the bulbs....the seals i'm not so sure about

 

I contacted Polo, however it turns out he wasn't the one who did the work, rather he was just hosting up the instuctions that somebody else had written up. However, upon some board research, I found that the person performing the installation had spent 10 hours in removing the rear suspension and removing the oem bushings.

 

bumples because they obviously can't read

 

Hey all, hate to sound like a noob - but i am one - thus the reason i post here on this thread.

anyways - i been reading about some people on this board saying the want to go "one step colder" with their spark plugs. Could somebody explain to me what this is about? Spark plugs have temperature ratings? are we talking about the temperature of the spark? the temperature that spark plug can tolerate? what is meant by "going colder"? What is the advantage of going colder? Where on the spark plug specs does it mention anything about temperature? When I buy spark plugs - do I have to check that the spark plug temperature matches OEM specs? I cant just go anywhere and ask for NGK's or Denso's?

 

I believe this is mostly for the peoples with boosted cars.

 

I just went and got a new key made from the dealer on my 2000 maxima se, and whether is was coincidence or what, but every time I turn the car on, the Trip Odometer resets to 0.0, and the clock in the middle of the dash does not work anymore, nor does the red security light next to the clock. I think it could be a fuse, but I have no idea which fuse it may be. Please help if you know anything. Thanks. -Chris

 

I have a choice between two offsets that, according to my research, should both fit a 2003 Max (at least statically).

Wheel is 17 x 9 5zigen fc-noir. Offset 35mm or 43 mm.
From my wheel calc it looks like the 43 will be closer inside, stick out less, and be more bearing friendly.

I'll be using these with 245/45/17 Kumho V710s for autox and 255/40/17 Nitto NT01s for track this summer.

For those with similar fitments, which offset would be better and why?
Any potential fitment or rubbing issues with either?

Thanks.

 

Does it happen with the origiaal key? I had two new keys made for my 2000 with no issues. Got two new fobs too. $20 eBay.

 

I run 17x8 fno1r-c's with a 35mm offset and 245/45/17 tires. They are almost flush in the front, and about 10mm in in the back. If you're going with a 9" wide rim, I would stick with a 43mm offset, especially sinc teh V710s in that size are considerably wider than a "street tire" in that size and would definitely rub with a 35 offset.

 

The security light is supposed to go off as you turn the engine on. If it stays on, then the immobilizer system is not working right. How many keys do you have? You are supposed to bring all keys in even if all you need done is to reprogram one of them.

 

Since he said the security light is not working, what do think the problem might be?

 

Thanks for the replies so far.

I only had 1 key. I gave the dealer my current key, they said they reprogrammed both of them. Both keys when I turn the car on do the same thing, Trip Odometer goes to 0.0, and the clock never comes on. Additionally, the security light that used to blink red when the car was locked never comes on anymore either.

 

I have a question. When replacing springs/struts where do you shop for Tokico and H-Tech parts? Also I'm wonder what little things I'll need, dust boots, bearings, bushings etc and where might I find those things?

 

each new key needs to be added to the computer. Dealer can do it using Consult-II initialization procedure. There may be a manual way of doing it by following some sequence of steps. Search this forum or google for IVIS/NVIS initialization procedure but if you got the keys made at the dealer then you should just go back and re-program them.

 

All you really need is the strut and spring. the rest of the components you should be able to re-use, assuming they're in decent shape.

I strongly advice against H-Techs though. They suck. Go with Eibachs or H&R.

 

I was wonder if anyone could tell me how to remove the heated seat switch. I want to replace the light in the drivers side switch, it is out. Is this possible, or do I need to replace the switch itself? I am guessing the switch will just pop out with a flathead, but I want to see anyone has done anything like this.

 

I have an '03 SE and going over some rough rode while accelerating today my left speakers stopped working temporarily. Anyone have any thoughts? Lose wiring at the head unit? If so, does anyone have good instructions on how to take apart the dash?

 

Common problem for many 02-03s....

Try this: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=156

Or go aftermarket.

 

anyone replace their radiator yet? my top end tank has a pretty bad leak. anything i should look out for?

 

I'm having the same problem too. 90k miles and my car took a huge dump, the radiator has a pinhole leak, the cv axles have had it, and I just replaced my TWO blown front struts with tokico hps (next week all four will be installed with h-techs).
I'm trying to find a radiator that won't cost more than 150 but it's kind of hard.

 

Regarding the colder spark plug range, you should always stick with the factory recommended heat range UNLESS:

-You have detonation problems
-You're using nitrous
-You've turbo/supercharged your car.

The bottom two reasons often cause detonation, and the colder range reduces the likelyhood of it happening.

Basically, the spark plug has to be hot enough to avoid fouling, and cold enough to prevent pre-ignition (aka pinging, or detonation). The colder the spark plug, the faster it dissipates heat after firing. Hotter plugs stay hot after firing.

 

i replaced the radiator on my 00 because it was completely blocked and the car was overheating. the dealership wanted about $300 for the radiator plus labor. i was able to find one online for a little over $100 and installed it myself.
1. drain coolant using drain plug on the bottom.
2. remove hoses from radiator
3. remove two nuts and brackets holding the radiator in from the top.
4. remove radiator
(note: if you have an auto tranny, you also have to remove the tranny coolant lines from the bottom of the radiator.)

here you go: $139 shipped http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...size=V6%2C3.0L

 

Hey Ebay has them. They sell them seperate or in a set of fronts and rears. I believe they go for about 48 dollars.

 

Thanks djcallao, Hopefully there are still some available.