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5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Old 02-10-2007 | 01:05 PM
  #1161  
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hi. can anyone help?!? i'm new, and just purchase an 02 6 speed. nice car, good deal, but was victum of a vehicle prowl. oem navi and bose head unit taken by someone who thought they needed it more. i'm not worried about the head unit, but i need to find a navi touch screen with funtion buttons to get the hvac climate control working. anyone know anybody that might have a unit or a wrecked car with a stock navi setup? also, can this car easily be switched to the digital climate control or will a pathfinder or infiniti nav unit be a suitable replacement? the dealer said they cannot cross reference one vehicle to another for the navigation, just that the maxima unit number ends with 5Y700. i need to have harness pigtails too, as the idiot cut the harness instead of upplugging. thanks for any help!
Old 02-10-2007 | 03:52 PM
  #1162  
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Hello, I was looking at a 02 AT and it has 75k miles on it. I am wondering if there are alot of problems with these cars or will they run fine? I noticed there was a MAF issue or something and wanted to know if that was a problem and if there is anything else. Would you recommend me getting it?
Old 02-10-2007 | 08:02 PM
  #1163  
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Originally Posted by Topher3284
Thanks djcallao, Hopefully there are still some available.
NO PROBLEM MAN.
Old 02-10-2007 | 08:05 PM
  #1164  
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Originally Posted by dblock75
Hello, I was looking at a 02 AT and it has 75k miles on it. I am wondering if there are alot of problems with these cars or will they run fine? I noticed there was a MAF issue or something and wanted to know if that was a problem and if there is anything else. Would you recommend me getting it?
02 WITH 75K SOUNDS ALRIGHT. AS FOR THE MAF PROBLEM. YOU CAN GET A NEW ONE AT AUTOPARTSWAREHOUSE.COM FOR ABOUT 90 BUCKS. WHEN YOU REPLACE IT YOU'RE CAR SHOULD RUN LIKE NEW CONSIDERING THAT IS THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH IT. IT ALSO DEPENDS ON HOW MUCH YOU ARE GONNA PAY FOR THE CAR. HARD TO SAY IF IT IS A DEAL WITHOUT KNOWING THE PRICE.
Old 02-10-2007 | 09:19 PM
  #1165  
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Can Anyone Help Me Out On Where To Find An Ae Engine Cover For My 2000 Max.
Old 02-11-2007 | 06:59 AM
  #1166  
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Originally Posted by djcallao
Can Anyone Help Me Out On Where To Find An Ae Engine Cover For My 2000 Max.
call daveb (number in stickies). he will sell you the cover and all the hardware for a good price.
Old 02-11-2007 | 12:03 PM
  #1167  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
call daveb (number in stickies). he will sell you the cover and all the hardware for a good price.
THANKS MAN
Old 02-11-2007 | 12:12 PM
  #1168  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
call daveb (number in stickies). he will sell you the cover and all the hardware for a good price.
HOW DO I FIND HIS NUMBER?
Old 02-11-2007 | 12:14 PM
  #1169  
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Originally Posted by djcallao
HOW DO I FIND HIS NUMBER?
look in the FAQ stickies....it's there.
Old 02-11-2007 | 12:32 PM
  #1170  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
look in the FAQ stickies....it's there.
SORRY MAN I'M STILL HAVIN TROUBLE FINDIN IT
Old 02-11-2007 | 02:35 PM
  #1171  
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Originally Posted by djcallao
SORRY MAN I'M STILL HAVIN TROUBLE FINDIN IT
Took me 3 seconds. http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...8&postcount=85
Old 02-11-2007 | 04:10 PM
  #1172  
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2003 GLE, about 75k miles, and I'm staying on top of maintenance. Makes a thunking type of sound that seems to be coming from the engine area (can't hear it differently with the window open on either side). It's linked to wheel speed and if my foot's off the gas. If I touch the gas or the brakes, the sound stops, and starts right up again when I get my foot off the pedal.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. -LJ
Old 02-11-2007 | 09:46 PM
  #1173  
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Originally Posted by Little John
2003 GLE, about 75k miles, and I'm staying on top of maintenance. Makes a thunking type of sound that seems to be coming from the engine area (can't hear it differently with the window open on either side). It's linked to wheel speed and if my foot's off the gas. If I touch the gas or the brakes, the sound stops, and starts right up again when I get my foot off the pedal.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. -LJ
is there any vibration that you can feel related to this sound, or is it only the noise?

The only thing I can think of is that it might be a worn CV axle - since it goes away when pressure is applied (via gas or braking) to the driveaxle. Is the sound more apparent when turning or in a straight line (or does it make no difference)?
Old 02-11-2007 | 10:02 PM
  #1174  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
I run 17x8 fno1r-c's with a 35mm offset and 245/45/17 tires. They are almost flush in the front, and about 10mm in in the back.
Thanks Irish. Would you have a guess at the clearance inside from suspension to tire/rim with your 35mm 8inchers? Just making sure the online calculator I am using to estimate is correct.
http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp
Old 02-12-2007 | 06:13 AM
  #1175  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
is there any vibration that you can feel related to this sound, or is it only the noise?

The only thing I can think of is that it might be a worn CV axle - since it goes away when pressure is applied (via gas or braking) to the driveaxle. Is the sound more apparent when turning or in a straight line (or does it make no difference)?
No vibration yet, but the sound was worse this morning than last night. I don't notice any changes when steering. One theory was U-joint?
Old 02-12-2007 | 01:51 PM
  #1176  
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Originally Posted by Little John
No vibration yet, but the sound was worse this morning than last night. I don't notice any changes when steering. One theory was U-joint?
I'll second Irish's guess-timate. CV joints are usually more noticable when you turn the steering wheel a lot and at low speeds. Try going to a parking lot and turning the steering wheel to full lock and drive slowly (not faster than say 35mph). If no noise, then try full lock the opposite direction. You should get much more noticeable thunking/clunking noise this way. If it is more noticeable doing this, then I'd say you definitely have a worn CV joint. You may also want to check the cv joint boots for holes or tears. A boot that is torn or has holes will throw most of it's grease out fairly quickly and you should have an nice layer of "chocolate frosting" somewhere on the bottom of your car.... A damaged boot and clunking is definitely a CV joint.

Happy hunting.
Old 02-12-2007 | 07:01 PM
  #1177  
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OK...this is a NOOB question...but where the hell do i buy mesh to make a grille for the front and bottom of my 00-01 bumper? I cant seem to find it anywhere...can someone help me out? Thanks in advance
Old 02-12-2007 | 07:04 PM
  #1178  
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Originally Posted by PandaXpress
OK...this is a NOOB question...but where the hell do i buy mesh to make a grille for the front and bottom of my 00-01 bumper? I cant seem to find it anywhere...can someone help me out? Thanks in advance
gutter guard from home depot
Old 02-12-2007 | 07:34 PM
  #1179  
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Originally Posted by Little John
No vibration yet, but the sound was worse this morning than last night. I don't notice any changes when steering. One theory was U-joint?
CV axle (it's not a u-joint, it's a CV joint) or (shot in the dark) perhaps one of your pulleys is loose...
Old 02-12-2007 | 07:36 PM
  #1180  
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Originally Posted by JohnWEngle
I'll second Irish's guess-timate. CV joints are usually more noticable when you turn the steering wheel a lot and at low speeds. Try going to a parking lot and turning the steering wheel to full lock and drive slowly (not faster than say 35mph). If no noise, then try full lock the opposite direction. You should get much more noticeable thunking/clunking noise this way. If it is more noticeable doing this, then I'd say you definitely have a worn CV joint. You may also want to check the cv joint boots for holes or tears. A boot that is torn or has holes will throw most of it's grease out fairly quickly and you should have an nice layer of "chocolate frosting" somewhere on the bottom of your car.... A damaged boot and clunking is definitely a CV joint.

Happy hunting.
I'm not disagreeing with you - I'm just thinking out loud. When the car is coasting the CV assembly is "unloaded" and somehow maybe is causing noise (or maybe the CV axle bearing on the passenger's side??), which goes away when braking or accellerating ("loading" it). It's a longshot, but with not much details, it's hard to make a call on what a noise is.

Another thought: check your brake pads for even wear. Perhaps a piston is stuck or something in a caliper.
Old 02-12-2007 | 08:28 PM
  #1181  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
gutter guard from home depot
isnt this like some chicken wire? or is it like what street scenes uses for their grilles?
Old 02-12-2007 | 08:32 PM
  #1182  
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Originally Posted by PandaXpress
isnt this like some chicken wire? or is it like what street scenes uses for their grilles?
No, it is not like chicken wire. It is similar to the Street Scenes material, but helluva lot cheaper.
Old 02-12-2007 | 08:33 PM
  #1183  
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Originally Posted by PandaXpress
isnt this like some chicken wire? or is it like what street scenes uses for their grilles?
no, chicken wire is much thinner. Gutter guard is thicker and stiffer (and galvanized, so it won't rust). It kind of looks like the ungalvanized stuff street scenes uses....
Old 02-12-2007 | 09:51 PM
  #1184  
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Originally Posted by 00MaxSE
No, it is not like chicken wire. It is similar to the Street Scenes material, but helluva lot cheaper.
lol..why laugh? ive seen chicken wire on the civic..lol..i was being serious ...so trip to home depot is in my near future!
Old 02-12-2007 | 10:05 PM
  #1185  
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Now can someone help me with a legitimate question? What would be the best drop in inches for the front and rear to use with 20 " wheels?
Old 02-12-2007 | 10:17 PM
  #1186  
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I'm assuming you havn't done any research at all with suspension. You can make any 20" rims fit with the right offset with any type of drop if you wanted.

I'm sorry but I'm not going to spood feed when there is a suspension thread that is stickied on in this forum.
Old 02-12-2007 | 10:25 PM
  #1187  
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Originally Posted by djcallao
Now can someone help me with a legitimate question? What would be the best drop in inches for the front and rear to use with 20 " wheels?
I would advise against 20" wheels, but that's another issue

You will need to check offset clearances, but most drops available will accomodate 20" wheels...your tires will just be rubberbands.
Old 02-12-2007 | 10:38 PM
  #1188  
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Originally Posted by LA02MAX
I would advise against 20" wheels, but that's another issue

You will need to check offset clearances, but most drops available will accomodate 20" wheels...your tires will just be rubberbands.
Haha rubberbands, I like that, what is the problem with 20" wheels? Can you let me know. If I can avoid problems than I will. If 20's will give me problems in the future than forget about it. Right now I have 02 Max stocks on my 2000. Thanks man
Old 02-13-2007 | 05:11 AM
  #1189  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
CV axle (it's not a u-joint, it's a CV joint) or (shot in the dark) perhaps one of your pulleys is loose...
It was really bad yesterday on the way home from work - I had to skip class that night cuz of it. Dropped it off at the dealer instead (warranty), so we'll see what happens.

Incidentally, it was happening at highway speeds, too. We shall see. And I'm renting a Neon. What a POS.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:05 AM
  #1190  
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I'm an idiot. Wasn't the CV. Or a pulley. Or the transmission. It was loose lugnuts. I did the brakes back a month or two ago, and I guess I didn't do the lugs tightly enough. I'm an idiot.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:15 AM
  #1191  
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Originally Posted by Little John
I'm an idiot. I'm an idiot.
Torque those suckas down to 87 ft-lbs.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:16 AM
  #1192  
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Originally Posted by Little John
I'm an idiot. Wasn't the CV. Or a pulley. Or the transmission. It was loose lugnuts. I did the brakes back a month or two ago, and I guess I didn't do the lugs tightly enough. I'm an idiot.


It happens... at least you got things sorted out without dropping a lot of time or money into it.
Old 02-13-2007 | 11:09 AM
  #1193  
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Originally Posted by 00MaxSE
Torque those suckas down to 87 ft-lbs.
Yep. And do it again a few days later. Me--> <-- My stupidity
Old 02-13-2007 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by djcallao
Haha rubberbands, I like that, what is the problem with 20" wheels? Can you let me know. If I can avoid problems than I will. If 20's will give me problems in the future than forget about it. Right now I have 02 Max stocks on my 2000. Thanks man
There is no "problem" per se, only:
1. 20" wheels are heavy as hell, and will make your car considerably slower than stock, and will also adversely affect how the car handles.
2. With ultra-low-profile tires, you will feel every crack, bump, and divot in the road. Even moreso if you lower the car. Heavy wheels + ULP tires + stiffer springs + less spring travel = terrible ride qualit and terrible handling. It's that simple.
3. Tires for 20's are damn expensive (at least "quality" tires).
4. Very easy to bend a rim on a pothole because there's not much tire between the rim and the road. Better buy an extra one....
5. Most here will agree that 20's look idiotic on a 5th gen (most, not all) but that's a personal choice. Most here prefer 18's (or 19s at most).

As to the springs: read the sticky at the top of the 5th gen forum. There is far too much to just discuss here, and there are a million discussions on this topic already.
Old 02-13-2007 | 12:16 PM
  #1195  
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Originally Posted by Little John
I'm an idiot. Wasn't the CV. Or a pulley. Or the transmission. It was loose lugnuts. I did the brakes back a month or two ago, and I guess I didn't do the lugs tightly enough. I'm an idiot.
yup...that'll do it
Old 02-13-2007 | 12:27 PM
  #1196  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
There is no "problem" per se, only:
1. 20" wheels are heavy as hell, and will make your car considerably slower than stock, and will also adversely affect how the car handles.
2. With ultra-low-profile tires, you will feel every crack, bump, and divot in the road. Even moreso if you lower the car. Heavy wheels + ULP tires + stiffer springs + less spring travel = terrible ride qualit and terrible handling. It's that simple.
3. Tires for 20's are damn expensive (at least "quality" tires).
4. Very easy to bend a rim on a pothole because there's not much tire between the rim and the road. Better buy an extra one....
5. Most here will agree that 20's look idiotic on a 5th gen (most, not all) but that's a personal choice. Most here prefer 18's (or 19s at most).

As to the springs: read the sticky at the top of the 5th gen forum. There is far too much to just discuss here, and there are a million discussions on this topic already.
Thanks, that is very helpful info. I'll take all of this in consideration. Thanks again.
Old 02-13-2007 | 05:23 PM
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Omg!!! Bump!!! Stupid Newbies Making Stuipd Threads!!!
Old 02-14-2007 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by The Law
Omg!!! Bump!!! Stupid Newbies Making Stuipd Threads!!!
lies! That never happens!
Old 02-14-2007 | 03:36 PM
  #1199  
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Dashboard Removal + Gauges

I'm new driver and new to the whole car mod scene and would like to replace my dashboard gauges and lights in my 02 maxima. How do I got about removing the dash? Also does anyone know where to find reverse glow guages for 2002 maxima?
Old 02-14-2007 | 06:15 PM
  #1200  
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I am a noob and just thought I would introduce myself. I don't have my max yet but am eagerly awaiting the "perfect" 02/03 SE with an auto trans. I test drove one about three weeks ago and have been anxious to find one with everything I want ever since. I'm wondering though, are there any Haynes type manuals out there for the 5.5 gens? I've only been able to find ones that go up to 2001.



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