Hello. Newbie here.

First off, love the site. Has proven to be very helpful. Thank you. I've been having a very miminal coolant leak that puzzles me. My 2K Max has never overheated, just leaves a very small amount of coolant on the ground every few days. I have read many threads and most point to the water pump. Others have mentioned an oil cooler tube which my car does not have. One also mentioned a "pump shaft seal" or a "freeze plug" I believe. To be sure where the leak is coming from, I removed the alternator and A/C compressor to get a better look at things. I pressure tested the system and the leak seemed to come from where the front engine cover meets the actual block by the A/C compressor. I'm leaning towards just replacing the water pump to see what happens. I'm just curious if any one out there has had to dissassemble the front of the engine and cover to fix a coolant leak. Any advice/info would be appreciated. Thanks again for a great site.

 

The dealer is just low-balling you to get a couple of bucks off your pocket. The key you have is a master key, you glovebox might be jammed shut..

If you bring it to a regular mechanic, I'm sure they'll figure out someway to open it for you and get it to work.

It's a 2000, there's no need for a key to be "programmed"

 

WRONG. Immobilizer system.

 

I drive a 2000 Maxima SE.
Problem: Battery Light and Brake Light= Alternator right? Am I running on pure battery at this point?
On Start up the car will die, if i slightly tap the gas it will be fine. Is it my aftermarket intake?
Any help is appreciated, thank you

 

I have 03 se 6spd. I have been trying to figure out what I can do to get a bigger brake system. (mainly rear) but would to front too. I've been reading about g35/350z rear brakes but not sure if they bolt up. how about 300zx brakes? sorry i just don't know a whole lot about interchanging parts! thanks for helping.

 

battery light usually means alternator. brake light means either low fluid or parking brake is on.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/6887000-post5.html

 

i have a 01 A/T maxima 20th anniversary that i just converted to an 5 speed and all i did is change out the trany, axles, and put the clutch in ,,, it cranks and all but won't start ... i started it once after many retries and it was running a kinda good (only at low rpm it wanted to die) but couldnt manage to start it again ... when it cranks its turning free for a couple of turns and slows down for a turn or two and frees again and does it over and over ... thought it would of been the crank sensor between the engine and trany because when i take it out it runs free all the time and when i put it back in the does the free and tight thing again... before the trany swap i drove it with its own power and engine was running fine ... NEED SOME HELP BEFORE I JUST SEND THE CAR THE SCAPS!! thank you

 

Took my 01 Max to the Nissan Dlr when the lights TCS and Slip lights came on while I was in traffic. The car immediately began running roughly when idling like it was missing a cyl. I drove it to the dealer and had it diagnosed-they said the general code for one or more bad ignition coils came back but nothing to isolate which one. They wanted 2k to replace the coil pack which seemed like a scam job to me. I drove it home.

After reading up on this site I simply let the car idle with the slip/tcs lights on while it ran roughly-the idea being that one or more of the coils was bad and that I could simply disconnect the coil from the power one by one and if the roughness did not get any worse, I found my bad coil. After doing this to all six coils it was apparent that it might not be the coil; each time I unplugged a coil the engine ran rougher and got better when I plugged it back in-did this several times.

Also, The lights have gone off and the car will run/idle normally until warming up then immediately when the lights come back on, the same symptoms occur.

Any ideas? Would the code for bad coils get thrown even if it wasn't so? After reading more seems like it could be injectors but I think the "warm up first before the problem starts" is the key.

 

Have you pulled your plugs and checked them?? Also with the info that you are providing a diagnosis will be somewhat difficult. If you know someone with a good scan tool then have them hook it up and print out the PID's when the car is experiencing the problem. If you can post those PIDS's on here then i can give you a very accurate diagnosis. PID stands for parameter identification

Technically thus far it is impossible to actually use an o-scope and get a pattern for coil on plug ignition systems. You can check resistance and voltage but unless you can get an accurate wave form then you wont know if the coil is good or starting to go bad.

Im also led to believe that this is not an ignition issue due to the fact that you are not throwing a code for a cylinder misfire. Using the crank and cam position sensors todays cars are extremely good at detecting that.

 

Battery light could be the alternator but it can also be caused by other things. Your battery could be losing a cell or you could have a loose connection somewhere or high resistance. There are many things that can cause this. Today's cars can run on battery but for a very VERY short amount of time like 5-15 min. If the alternator went completely out then pretty much every light on the dash will illuminate and shortly after the car will die. If you have this happen and see all the lights come one then shut down ASAP! Running on battery alone can cause some serious problems with your electrical system

With the brake light there are also many things that can happen. The ground switch on your e-brake can go out or malfunction, you could be low on fluid or in some cars the brake light will come on if you have a bulb out.

 

NEW QUESTION FOR SOMEONE TO ANSWER IF POSSIBLE!?

I have a 2002 Maxima 6SPD when tring to remove the MAF sensor housing, the 4 bolts that holds the air box the plastic piece where the bolt that goes in to the housing broke off. I tired to glue it back but I rather not risk the chance of it braking on me again. I have been noticing that no one sells just the MAF housing only. My sensor is fine I just need the housing. I rather clean my sensor to get the gains of what these other guys are talking about, but I need a new housing.

Does anyone know if the 2000-2001 Maxima housing I would be able to fit my 2002 MAF Sensor in it's housing or any other vehicle like a v6 Altima from the same year or a 2.5L Sentra?

Please let me know.

 

Question about the Clutch on a 2002 Maxima SE

Is the clutch really supposed to be really soft and mushy or am i missing something ?
(Previous owner showed me paperwork that he had the clutch done, the only thing im thinking is possibly replace the clutch line with a 1 pieces braided line for a better feel,bleeding it or maybe its just normal for a maxima)


Im used to the clutches in the VW's and they are springey and engage when they are higher up

 

you can adjust the push rod from the pedal to the clutch cylinder to change the point at which your clutch engages. The difference in pedal feel between cars is usually dependent on 3 things: whether it is a cable clutch or hydraulic, how heavy of a pressure plate is in it and the piston ratio between the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. The larger the piston in the slave cylinder the softer the clutch will feel.

 

Hey quick question here. Would 19x8 Konig Unknown 5 lug rims fit a 2002 maxima se?

I also forgot to add, the bolt pattern is 5/114.3 and offset is +30. Thanks

 

Yes they will fit.

 

Random problem with car not shift to first gear after car is park. I push down on the gas and it seems like car is in park but when it engages first gear it jerks forward. Not sure when this will happen again. It shifts fine while driving and coming off a stop. Mechanic check car and told me everything is fine but car does have output speed sensor.

 

Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any and all help!

A few years ago, my A/C stopped working on the lower settings (1-3), and would only work on full blast (4). Since it still worked when turned all the way up, I just dealt with it.

A few months ago, however, it went out altogether and now it won't even work on the high setting. It will, however, come on and work fine on the high setting if I hit a large pothole. After combing through these forums, it sounded like my first problem was the blower motor resistor. So, I replaced this, but it was to no avail. My A/C still doesn't work at all. When I turn the AC **** on, I can hear something "kick on" from outside the car (i.e. a different noise seems to appear when I hit the AC **** on, but it doesn't actually blow any air). Thoughts?!?!

PS its Hot down here in New Orleans with no A/C!

 

Does anyone know what is the proper pressure for the A/C in high and low pressure ports?

 

The FSM bases AC service procedure under the assumption of a full evac of the system. Because of this, the FSM only lists the units in terms of volume rather than pressure. This is to ensure that the correct ratio of refrigerant AND oil is used. What method are you using?

 

Will the Park Neutral position switch( SES- P1706) affect the car's driving ability or have any negative effects other than no reverse lights???

Simply put- Can I put this sensor replacement off or will it mess up the engine/tranny in any way?

 

Planning on full evac of the system.

 

Reverse lights should be controlled by the Back-Up Lamp Switch which is separate from the PNPS. I'm not definite on any effects of the PNPS not functioning, but I would guess it would take away cruise control.

 

Awesome. Start at HA - 197 for service procedure. Two steps. Partial charging and then remainder of specified amount charging.

 

High and low pressure is all dependent on ambient air temp. If its 80 outside then then the static pressure of 134a will be around 85-90psi, here is a chart http://www.glacierbay.com/ptchart134a.asp Low side pressure while running isnt a huge concern but will be in the high 20's to low 30's range. On and 80 degree day your high side pressure should be around 175-200psi
With R134a it's common to see high side pressure between 2.2 and 2.5 times ambient temperature.

Unless you know what your doing, i would not recommend doing an evac and recharge yourself.

 

This is for some of car vets here...I have 2000 GXE 5spd with 89k. How well would the engines handle a turbo bolted on with low boost and would you recommend a specific turbo company to buy from? I plan on making this car a dailey driver but make the motor a beast but a tamed beast...along with brake and suspension ups as well.

 

Got a deal on a full 2.5'' stainless exhaust line that is on a 96 4th gen, will this fit my 2001 AE or can I make it fit with minor mods?

 

So recently I've been reading a lot about people having problems with their transmission, so i decided to just go check and see if my fluid. (replaced fluid about 4k miles ago) Every time i would clean the dipstick, with the pink ATF, there is also a grayish residue that comes off (residue is a strong word in this context). It almost looks like some ash is being wiped on the napkin. Would you guys happen to know what this is about and if its something I need to be alarmed about?? Thanks

 

Alright thanks

 

So not new here but i have an issue. I started this thread http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...wd-vk56vd.html a few hours ago and now somehow it is closed. How does this happen and how can i change it?

 

i have a terrible issue with my nissan it seems whenever it's hot out or the car has been running over an hour the car just won't accel over 10-15mph sometimes it will fix it self sometimes i have to pull over and shut it off for a bit also the car is not posting any codes

 

I just put in a Cosmo CAI; I have researched and most say (especially this forum) to change the filter. So the question is, which filter should i buy? K&N?

Thanks
-Hooligan

 

I would not worry about that. I would be more worried if you found metal shavings and such.

 

Check your MAF. (Mass air flow sensor). It's in-line with your intake.

 

replaced the MAF in october the issue is still here

 

Need a good scan tool to take a movie of the PID's under normal conditions and then when the car is experiencing the problem. You should find some significantly different numbers when you compare the two.
If you can do that and post the PID's then i can help you diagnose it.

Also check your EGR if they get stuck open it will cause worlds of crazy issues

 

OK why isn't my avatar showing on my posts??

 

Have a few of questions. First one is, does anyone have the energy suspension subframe bushing kit? If so was the install relatively easy and did you notice any difference in the way your car handled?

My other question is concerning Y pipes. Im looking at getting the cattman manifolds and Y pipe combo in the future. I dont know what to do with the o2 sensors that are after the precats because the precats are deleted. What did you guys do with the o2 sensors that are after the precats so you didn't get a cel?

 

Okay ! I have another question! I'm not sure if Max's come stock with the LED lights. But mine only has the blue ones on the outer of the head lights. One of them went out, and I am wondering if you can get replacements for just the LED circle part. I don't know if I am explaining this right. Here is a link to the head lights I have. I have searched all over and I can't seem to find anything about replacing just those lights. I thought maybe they were just an insert to go on the outside of your headlight.



http://www.carid.com/projector-headl...FQQbKgod9SN0tQ

The headlights arent exactly like that, but you get the picture! Any advice would be GREAT!

 

You can buy O2 simulators or there are threads on the net that will tell you exactly how to make your own from radio shack. The radio shack way is cheaper but that is dependent on your electrical skills. They also make special extended bungs that are supposed to work but ive never seen anyone have much luck with them.

Be careful if you live somewhere that has emissions. It is a federal offense to remove a cat and if a shop does the proper inspection, like they should, before they test the vehicle then you will automatically fail your inspection.