Originally Posted by vijay101

Hi, I am new here and have a question regarding wheel fitment. I would appreciate if someone could let me know if the following wheels and size would fit on my car without problem. I got a 2003 Maxima GLE

TSW Donington 18 x 8 +20 offset 5x114.3

Thank you

Originally Posted by cjandura

Good start on the car.i would get coilovers but keep in mind it is a good ideal to swap them out in the winter time.i currently run BC in the summer and tokico Blues in the winter.

Originally Posted by DamSedan

P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase) Circuit (Bank 1)
Ok,

Basically, the car died on me after going around a left turn from a stop light. I coasted about 200 feet, got the car into neutral and turned the key. It fired right back up but of course I had a bunch of lights flashing at me. I was right at the entrance of my neighborhood luckily. Unfortunately, I did not have alot of time to play with it that evening so it pretty much just sat in the garage. Then yesterday I ended up having to drive it before playing with it again. Low an behold at about 65mph on the highway on the way to a dinner with the wife, the car tried to shut off again. I think the only thing that kept it going this time was the speed but who knows. Once again, the TCS light and Slip lights came on and the SES light was already on. At this point be had been driving for about 40 minutes and had been on the highway for at least 30 miles of that. I mean, this is coming out of the frickn blue here!

A buddy and I scanned it today and see what it was. I then double checked the connections and wires as far as I could and they all look good. We even cleaned the connection points. I have read through the forum here and have see a few things but no real answers to the problem.

Honestly, the car runs strong. It is an 03 I35 and has about 90,000k on it, new belts, plugs, packs all checked out, just changed the oil two weeks ago, new brakes... I just don't get it. The last thing I want to do is to start chasing a problem and dumping money into it. That being the case, I would rather just buy a new car! The only performance mods, if that is what you want to call it is a cai and springs.

Originally Posted by JBert02MAX

My car just had this problem!! Sorry to bring back an old thread! It died 2 times on my way to work this morning... How hard is it to replace cam positioning sensor? Would I be able to get one at pep boys or just from the dealer?

Thanks for the help

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

The stock A/T just isnt good, plane and simple. Warm your engine up before you drive to allow the tranny fluid to warm up, that will help a little bit. You might also have a leak somewhere. A tranmission controller module from JWT will transform the stock transmission into what you could call "good" performance. Expensive option though

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Does it downshift and still feel bogged when you press the gas down furthur? Try turning the OD off and see if it still seems sluggish when you try to pass at highway speeds. I dont use the OD unless im going on a long HWY trip because when you try to pass with the OD on you almost have to press it to the floor to downshift

Originally Posted by CharlieSole

Hey I'm a new member and I have a 2000 maxima. I replaced the back Cat Converter and I was told the 2 in front are also bad. Since the two in the front are bad would the one in the back crap out also?

Originally Posted by jason_10

I cleaned my MAF using a contact cleaner. Sprayed a little in the throttle then wiped it with a cloth. When I reinstalled everything, the car won't start. no crank. I can hear the fuel pump and it doesn't stop priming. I hear a buzzing sound when I step on the gas pedal. Need help on what to check. Thanks.

Originally Posted by CharlieSole

Hey I'm a new member and I have a 2000 maxima. I replaced the back Cat Converter and I was told the 2 in front are also bad. Since the two in the front are bad would the one in the back crap out also?

Originally Posted by Amerikaner83

You mean O2 sensors, not catalytic converter. Cars only have ONE catalytic,

Originally Posted by randcof

i have an 01 maxima giving me pretty much the same issue, it drives great as long as you drive it VERY easy, but as soon as you press on the gas a little harder it falls on its face,
history: just bought the car a week ago, it had a code for the # 3 coil pack so i replaced that, it runs smoother but still has the issue when i hit the gas, when i hit the gas it will downshift and the rpm's will go up but no power, it just falls on its face. i removed the 02 sensors to allow it to breathe a little but it didnt help (i was thinking the cats may have been stopped up) and now after rerading this thread i am wondering, do these cars have a problem with the maf?

also, i unplugged the maf with the car running to see if it would throw a code and it did so i kinda took it that if it was bad it would throw a code,, it this right or might it still be bad?

Yup, exact same issue!

alot of what i'm reading on the forum about MAF's is that they can fail intermitently and not throw codes, so it's like chasing a ghost. Since the MAF is $100+, i'm going to try that after i try some of the less expensive options, though i'm still thinking MAF is the culprit. The MAF wire heats up and measures the air flow...that thing has to be eventually fail...it would make sense...as soon as you floor it, the engine sucks in more air but the MAF can't read the airflow properly and you get a bad mix of gas to air...resulting in bad mileage. Seems to make sense, right?

Anybody else out there have this problem and fixed it? How?

Originally Posted by Marooner

00 se

I have a question that I can't really find an answer anywhere for. I installed 6k after market Hid on my 00 maxima. After installing I had them work but the high beam indicator stays on with the high beam switch engaged. When I engage the switch they dim real quick then flicker like strobes. Really cool at first but pretty annoying since i can't use my 3k hids for my fog lights since they will not turn on with the (high beams) on even though they aren't really on! Someone please help. Is there a wire to disconnect or cut fuse to pull?

Originally Posted by djfrestyl

Fog light rewire to remain on with high beams, and control them independently of low beam.

http://www.shiftice.com/fog_rewire.html

Originally Posted by djfrestyl

^^ It shouldn't. This rewire connects the signal wire for the fog lights to the parking light, effectively disconnecting it from the headlamp.

I could be wrong, but to me it logically doesn't make sense.

Originally Posted by andrewmac

Hey everyone,

I recently bought 2001 maxima for next to nothing because of a noise in the engine. I'm completely prepared to pay whatever it cost to repair it I'm just trying to figure out exactly what it is first. I've uploaded a video to youtube with the noise in it, could anyone take an educated guess at what it could be?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPrr40DZKJI

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by DennisMik

Sounds like a valve lifter/clearance problem.

Originally Posted by andrewmac

You're the second person to suggest that so I'll assume that's what it is. Would someone who's comfortable working on cars be able to repair this themselves or should it be taken to a mechanic? Any estimate what kind of repair costs I could be looking at?

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by yrock

hello...I am in need of the fsm for my 02 maxima. I have found several links but none of them are working. Could someone please direct me in the right path? I just recieved my new valve covers and spark plugs and need directions! Thanks!!

Originally Posted by dundir

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE and was doing my rear brakes and rotors. I've done this job before more than a few times in the past on different vehicles so I wasn't expecting any trouble. (i.e. Ford Ranger, Ford Focus ...) anyways, I had the car up on jackstands and had the wheels pulled off, getting ready to delve into a standard rotor / rear brake pad replacement. Normally I have no problems unlatching the parking brake, simple removal of the clip and then it usually pulls right out. Today, however; the whole cable is frozen in its bracket, and upon closer inspection of the caliper, seems the caliper is frozen as well (though the car still brakes).

So if these weren't the rear calipers i'd try a C-Clamp to loosen it up but because its the rear and the caliper piston needs to be rotated with the compression tool (clockwise/counterclockwise depending in which way its facing), i'm kind of stuck.
I tried some WD40 on the bracket, as well as some more industrial strength penetrant, neither of which had much effect on the bracket.

Does anyone have any suggestions for disconnecting that brake cable in the current circumstance, and / or loosening up the piston of the brake caliper. Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by tseng1023

Foglight rewire question...

I followed the shiftice guide to rewire my fogs for my 5.5... I followed all instructions and use the tap in splice or w/e its called. In the end... My headlights and fogs are operatin like normal. Ive searched and searched but i cant find an exact answer to this prolem. Ive triple checked the wires an i cut the right ones. Ill get some pics up but does anyone have an idea on whats wrong here?

Originally Posted by Laevateinn

What exactly is your problem? Your brakes are clamped against the rotor so you can't pull em out? Did you disengage the parking brake? If yes, but it's still stuck, you can disconnect the cables from the lever itself. I'm just not sure if it will be easy though.

Originally Posted by Laevateinn

What is the problem in your ?5.5?

Originally Posted by tseng1023

Well bAsically the shiftice directions did not work for me