Never rule it out. If the engine had been misfiring then it was dumping raw fuel into the cat, which will clog it quickly. When it gets clogged badly enough it will start building much higher than normal temps and they are capable of melting themselves down and clogging completely

 

I would triple check those part numbers - as dj said, they ought to be fitting.

 

Check for codes. If you're in good with someone at a stealership to do this for less than the princely sum of 129.99, their tool can also read additional codes from the transmission ecu. Some of the higher end 3rd party tools might also be able to do this, but I am not sure.

You did the obvious, right? Check the fluid levels (atf fluid levels are usually checked when running), and check that your transmission cooling lines aren't clogged?

 

When in neutral do you take it up to 1,800 RPM's? I would say it is a leak on the intake somewhere, but if you take it up to 1,800 RPM's in neutral and don't hear anything then you can likely rule out an intake leak.

 

Yes in neutral i can take it up to between 1500-2000 rpm and hear nothing. It does sound like the whistling of a leak coming from somewhere. I put on an injen cold air intake myself so that was the first thing i checked but I am pretty sure it is not related to that. I still think it would have to be something with the transmission due to the fact of only doing it in drive.

 

I've had several cold air intakes that whistled, but usually in the higher rpms or at idle. But only in drive....hrmmm

 

Hey so I think I need to replace the cv joint/axle, so upon inspection should it be obvious or how can I be sure? Also I'm going to do the front valve cover gasket, cus it's leaking in the dipstick area. I've read a bit about putting on the 04 covers, and was just wondering if that fixed the issue. Also do I need a kit or just the gasket?

 

I have an 02 Max 6spd, and when changing "spiritedly" from 1st gear into 2nd, it makes a knocking sound coming from the front suspension of the car when the tires lose traction. Ive also noticed some wierd swaying when hitting certain bumps. Is this something I should be looking into regarding the transverse link recall? Will the dealer even honor this recall anymore?

 

When a CV joint goes bad, makes a "crinkling" or pinging noise that devolves into grinding noise. The noise is more noticable when you are turning. If you look at the axel and the rubber boot is torn, its a good sign that you have a bad axle.

For the valve cover, you need the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals. I don't think that there is a kit for this.

 

I don't know what the knocking noise could be but in regards to the recall, a recall never expires. Call a dealer and they will look up on a computer to check if it has been done to your car. They will need your VIN number to look it up.

 

2 quick questions here :

1-I'm looking to upgrade the fogs and I was wondering what's the best match for the factory hid's? PIAA intense white, xtreme white plus, super plasma or else ..?

2-I also have a strut bar laying around... when installing, at what torque should it be tightened??

Thanks!

 

Cool thanks, does anyone know of a good write up for the vq35 front valve cover replacement?

 

As stated, anyone else get this? Usually only happens on bigger potholes, but it appears to be coming from just above the clock area.

 

Hmmm....I have an Injen intake too and definitely have a whistle in that RPM range. I can't recall if I get it when I idle up in that RPM. It might still be there, just not loud enough for you to notice right away.

Have you tried to get a closer diagnosis with a friend revving the car in neutral to see if you can notice the same sound and where it is coming from?

Do a search, there is a good write-up for this on here somewhere. The front VC is pretty straight-forward, but you want to be sure you tighten the bolts correctly and you have a bit of RTV sealant in a couple spots. Total process will take less than an hour if you are careful and spend your time, but likely around 30 minutes.

I would suggest you search for the FSM manual as it is very good for this procedure.

On the 02-03 Maximas the spark plug seals are already in the valve cover. I believe the 04 VC is interchangeable, but again do a search to verify.

 

hey all , new to the maxima scene...

i beleive im confused with something, i read that there was things to change in order to do exhaust/intake upgrades,

can someone clarify? what do i have to do/should do in order to upgrade my exhaust and intake??

i have a 02 3.5

 

So I was going to change the pads and rotors on the 02 Maxima today, get all the lug nuts off but one, and I get to the last one and it turns, then wham spins free. My guess is that some jackass cross-threaded the lug nut, and when I tried to remove it I sheared the ears from the stud.. So what the hell do I do now? The stud and lug nut just spin in the hub. any suggestions?

 

Impact wrench monkeys. The same kind that'll impact your lock nut in place, only to have the lock nut tool break on you on the side of the road.

You'll need to drill out the stud - lock the nut/stud in place, drill a small hole in the middle, then successively bigger. Remember to use oil on the drill bits to keep them cool. Yes, it's miserable. But it saves the wheel.

 

Been there - done that. Calling it miserable is sugar-coating it!

 

It all depends what exhaust and intake upgrades you want to do...

I suggest you do some searching as there is a myriad of information on both intake upgrades and exhaust upgrades. In the end only you can decide what is best.

 

No i have not tried that. I guess that would a pretty good place to start. I just cant fathom why it would be so specific to that rpm range.

 

Hey guys my max just isn't riding as smooth as I'm sure it once did. It's got 190k so the stock suspension doesnt owe me anything, so I'm just wondering what my best route for replacement is. I don't need to go lower but if I went down a bit it's not a big deal. I don't know if I should just go oem, or if there is some aftermarket I should look into. Also do I just need to do struts or springs aswell? Thanks again

 

At 190K, you most likely need struts. Unless somebody used the car as a truck and constantly hauled heavy loads around, there is nothing wrong with the springs.

If you don't want the stock ride and handling as Nissan designed it, then you have a lot of decisions to make. If you want a little firmer ride than stock, get KYB struts. At 190K, I would also recommend that you replace the strut bearings also.

 

im having trouble with my car and this dam 15 post rule SUCKS lol

i have a 00 nissan maxima gle i think ill check later its my first car it had SEVERAL issues when bought ive managed to fix a few but it still buggy

i would really like to learn as much as possible about this car and how to maintain it in good shape and all that but i got no idea how to go about it

if you dont have the owners manual where would one be able to obtain it?

 

Hi, I am new to this page too. I just purchased a 2002 Maxima SE with 67,000 miles on it. I am considering some simple upgrades such as an intake and an exhaust. Im looking into purchasing an Injen Cold Air Intake as well as a Megan Oe Rs exhaust. I was wondering what is the best way to go with these cars. I have heard that the Cold Air Intake can damage the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I also was wondering what the chances of sucking up water through the intake was. I plan on getting the cone cover as well as the bypass valve for it. I was looking for some feedback on this and other intakes. I also would like some feedback on this exhaust system. I would really like a Frankencar exhaust but haven't been able to find one because the company is out of business. Any help with these questions or any advice or leads on parts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your help, I'm glad to be a part of this forum.
Sincerely,
David

 

Two questions if someone would be so kind as to help me out please

1) Stock driver's side front speaker is dead...if I get a basic aftermarket speaker of the same size, is it just plug and play? Do I have to run new wires?

2) What do I have to install / upgrade / mod to achieve a deep growl like that of a mustang GT, Camaro SS..etc? Is it possible or only with a V8 engine?

Thanks in advance!

 

There is a pretty narrow intake whistle range...worth a shot to see if you pick it up in that scenario.

Agreed.

1. It should be plug and play. Probably have to cut and use the harness from the old speaker wiring it to the new one and install.

2. There are options, but you won't get near that deep growl you seek. A start would be a y-pipe and run 3-inch exhaust all the way to the back. There are different muffler options. But at that points you are talking about spending $1000 or more. Are you sure it is worth it?

 

Be careful on the psotwhoring

What are the issues?

Read all you can read on here and you'll learn a lot.

Pick your year:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/owners-manuals.php

 

No no!

If Bose, an aftermarket speaker will NOT work. It is only plug and play if you are non-Bose.

..you can always find a cheap Bose speaker on the classifieds here. Lot of people have them laying around.

 

Woops...my bad, forgot about the BLOSE cr*p. Thanks!

 

Thanks again Dennis

 

You asked about the owners manual and NmexMax gave you a link for that.

However, if you want to be able to fix problems, you would benefit from having a FSM (Factory Service Manual).

If you want a FSM, go here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

Click on the year desired.
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.

 

Owners manual is for shizz.

 

^^^ lol @ making same mistake noob did

 

I only keep my owners manual around just to remember when she was fairly new

Still have the one for my '95 also.

 

I keep mine in the glovebox. Selling point for whenever I decide it's not worth to keep around anymore.

I do have an extra key from every car I've owned though, and will keep that tradition going forever.

 

Quick question that wasn't making a new thread worthy. Ordering HID kit from DDM Tuning HB2 Kit. But theres a HI/LO option for 20+ whats the difference. Does that mean that if I buy the regular one I won't had HID high beams.

 

You will have low beam HID and halogen high beam. I'll warn you now, if you put HID's in your stock halogen housing, you're gonna glare/blind the hell out of oncoming vehicles. This is the reason i removed mine when I had my 2001 Max.

The high beam halogen sucks ***** too, so don't expect good output at all from that.

 

So is it worth it to go with the HI/LO option? An I suppose your saying, get new housing..

 

Yes, get the right housing.

 

HI/LO just means the highbeam/low beam are the same bulb. If you wanted full HID's (low/high beam), you would need bi-xenon kit. It would be the H4 Bi-xenon since 'H4' is the same as '9003.'