5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
HeadLights
I'm sure this has been talked about more than enough already so please don't hate me for this. I have a 2002 Maxima and my driver side headlight (bulb-hid) went out. this was the OEM bulb. I went to the dealer to buy a replacement bulb and they quoted me ~120$ for one bulb. However, i have been thinking of getting the angel eye look installed but I'm not too good with my hands lol. I was wondering if there are any recommendations on close to OEM fit headlight units (black is preferable over chrome) that don't required too much modding. I was browsing eBay and found HALO Projector JDM headlight unit replacements. i also browsed 2k racing and saw Nissan "Maxima Eagle Eye Halo Projector Headlights Black (2002-2003)." both looked really nice. browsed the forum a bit more and found that xenon shop had some nice 10000k bulbs that looked pretty nice and bright. would those two go together ? would i need extra parts for installation/conversion? please feel free to email me if necessary. Thank you in advanced.
Contact your Nissan dealer or courtesy parts or any nissan online dealer and order an OEM keyfob for your year and model...Never buy ebay crap
Programming is as easy as inserting the key in ignition for several times and pressing a button on the fob...(search for the instructions here in the forums)......ALL maximas came with keyless entry.You seem not to know a bit about the car you already have
Programming is as easy as inserting the key in ignition for several times and pressing a button on the fob...(search for the instructions here in the forums)......ALL maximas came with keyless entry.You seem not to know a bit about the car you already have
i replaced the mass air flow sensor in september it was an aftermarket one we replaced the revolution sensor yesterday on my 2001 maxima and i'm still having the acceleration issues the car won't go over 20mph after 30-45 minutes of driving i don't know what else to do sick of this car
Last edited by 2001nissanmaxima; May 4, 2011 at 09:39 AM.
Ok, let's start again.
What are your codes?
What prompted you to think it was the MAF sensor?
What prompted you to think it was the revolution sensor after the MAF sensor wasn't the problem?
What are your codes?
What prompted you to think it was the MAF sensor?
What prompted you to think it was the revolution sensor after the MAF sensor wasn't the problem?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMJQY...eature=related that's the problem i have no codes
Do you think it's because you used a non-OEM MAF sensor?
Have a problem with my max. My interior lights turn off/dim when I break when I have my lights off..... radio, clock, dash..... I fixed my tails with the whole assembly.. Put in my stock radio. Checked all my fuses.. after all this my interior lights don't dim/shut off when my lights are on now they used to..Another thing my cruise control doesn't work.. Someone told me my break lights had something to do with it. Anyone know about this??
I have a 2002 Max GLE Auto. Every once in awhile the sunroof flips out and opens by itself. Cycling the slider switch to open and close the roof sorts it out. Is this a known issue? I've done the reset thing per the manual.
Thanks
Thanks
Hello everyone, new here and was hoping for some help I was curious if I had to remove the rear bumper on an 01 to change the bulbs in the side markers? I know they have that little screw on clip on them.
Brake light won't turn off
Got it!!!!.. This is my humble contribution to the Org for those of you who are in need of replacing the Stop Lamp Switch (or brake light switch). (Moderators, feel free to move it to the "How-To's" if you feel it might be helpful to someone).
I became aware of a malfunctioning Stop Lamp Switch in my car when I began having trouble with my gear selector being "locked", unable to move from Park, unless I manually depressed the shift lock. This started happening on rare ocassions, so I paid little attention to it at first. As it was happening more often, I began to search for information and found out that the culprit was indeed a defective stop lamp swicth. I also found out that, while I was having this issue, my brake lights were not working, and I began noticing that cars behind me were stopping dangerously close to my rear end, since my brake lights were not doing its job of warning them when I was slowing down.
Before getting down to the brake pedal area to meet in person the cause of the trouble, I was hoping that it was held in place simply by a couple of metal nuts, like many other cars. To my surprise, it was held by some kind of plastic lock nut. Not being familiar with the mechanism and procedure involved in removing the switch, I began to request tips on how to remove it. I trully appreciate the suggestions made by some fellow org members.
Parts and procedure are as follows:
The picture below shows the Stop Lamp Switch (also known as Brake Light Switch) along with the packaging displaying the part number. At a local Nissan dealer, the price out-the-door, including taxes, was $37.73.

Since it was a little uncomfortable for me, I removed the plastic cover under the steering wheel so I can give myself more room to maneuver. Some people may not need to go through this step and save some time in the process.
The next picture shows the general area where the Stop Lamp and the Automatic Speed Control Device (ASCD) switches are located. This view is from the driver side floor looking up towards the dashboard.

In order to release the defective part, hold it by the body (where the Nissan logo is) and turn it 45 degrees, in the direction of the arrow shown in the picture below.

This twisting action will cause the switch to pop out towards the harness. (Note the position of the switch as it is being released).
Completely slide out the switch, disconnect it from the harness and set it aside.
Grab the new switch and connect it to the harness.
Slide it through the hole and push it against the stopper attached to the brake pedal, holding the switch in the same position as the old switch was when it was released.
While pushing the switch against the stopper, turn it 45 degrees, this time in the opposite direction as the arrow shows in the picture above, in order to secure it in place.
To finalize, depress and release the brake pedal a few times to make sure the switch is securely in place, and to test that your brake lights are working.
If everything is in working order, you are done.
I became aware of a malfunctioning Stop Lamp Switch in my car when I began having trouble with my gear selector being "locked", unable to move from Park, unless I manually depressed the shift lock. This started happening on rare ocassions, so I paid little attention to it at first. As it was happening more often, I began to search for information and found out that the culprit was indeed a defective stop lamp swicth. I also found out that, while I was having this issue, my brake lights were not working, and I began noticing that cars behind me were stopping dangerously close to my rear end, since my brake lights were not doing its job of warning them when I was slowing down.
Before getting down to the brake pedal area to meet in person the cause of the trouble, I was hoping that it was held in place simply by a couple of metal nuts, like many other cars. To my surprise, it was held by some kind of plastic lock nut. Not being familiar with the mechanism and procedure involved in removing the switch, I began to request tips on how to remove it. I trully appreciate the suggestions made by some fellow org members.
Parts and procedure are as follows:
The picture below shows the Stop Lamp Switch (also known as Brake Light Switch) along with the packaging displaying the part number. At a local Nissan dealer, the price out-the-door, including taxes, was $37.73.

Since it was a little uncomfortable for me, I removed the plastic cover under the steering wheel so I can give myself more room to maneuver. Some people may not need to go through this step and save some time in the process.
The next picture shows the general area where the Stop Lamp and the Automatic Speed Control Device (ASCD) switches are located. This view is from the driver side floor looking up towards the dashboard.

In order to release the defective part, hold it by the body (where the Nissan logo is) and turn it 45 degrees, in the direction of the arrow shown in the picture below.

This twisting action will cause the switch to pop out towards the harness. (Note the position of the switch as it is being released).
Completely slide out the switch, disconnect it from the harness and set it aside.
Grab the new switch and connect it to the harness.
Slide it through the hole and push it against the stopper attached to the brake pedal, holding the switch in the same position as the old switch was when it was released.
While pushing the switch against the stopper, turn it 45 degrees, this time in the opposite direction as the arrow shows in the picture above, in order to secure it in place.
To finalize, depress and release the brake pedal a few times to make sure the switch is securely in place, and to test that your brake lights are working.
If everything is in working order, you are done.
The switch was actually fine. It was the stopper (see picture) that broke off.
I went to buy a new stopper and was told to get a flat top screw (mine was plastic) that fits the bracket hole and a nut to secure it.
To install: press the brake pedal (I had to start car for more room) and put the screw in the hole with the flat top facing the switch and then just put the nut on to secure…took me all but 2 minutes. I did take the plastic cover off which allowed me to see the switch without having to poke my head under the dash and looking up, which felt very awkward
Brake light won't turn off
This is the first time using a forum so, cut me some slack...
This site was a blessing…the brake light on my Maxima was staying on and I figured it was something to do with the brake switch but I didn’t know where it was or where to start. After seeing the pictures on this website I grabbed my tools and was ready to go.
The switch was actually fine. It was the stopper (see picture) that broke off.
I went to buy a new stopper and was told to get a flat top screw (mine was plastic) that fits the bracket hole and a nut to secure it.
To install: press the brake pedal (I had to start car for more room) and put the screw in the hole with the flat top facing the switch and then just put the nut on to secure…took me all but 2 minutes. I did take the plastic cover off which allowed me to see the switch without having to poke my head under the dash and looking up, which felt very awkward
This site was a blessing…the brake light on my Maxima was staying on and I figured it was something to do with the brake switch but I didn’t know where it was or where to start. After seeing the pictures on this website I grabbed my tools and was ready to go.
The switch was actually fine. It was the stopper (see picture) that broke off.
I went to buy a new stopper and was told to get a flat top screw (mine was plastic) that fits the bracket hole and a nut to secure it.
To install: press the brake pedal (I had to start car for more room) and put the screw in the hole with the flat top facing the switch and then just put the nut on to secure…took me all but 2 minutes. I did take the plastic cover off which allowed me to see the switch without having to poke my head under the dash and looking up, which felt very awkward
Have a problem with my max. My interior lights turn off/dim when I break when I have my lights off..... radio, clock, dash..... I fixed my tails with the whole assembly.. Put in my stock radio. Checked all my fuses.. after all this my interior lights don't dim/shut off when my lights are on now they used to..Another thing my cruise control doesn't work.. Someone told me my break lights had something to do with it. Anyone know about this??
You fixed the light dimming problem and now have a cruise control problem?
I believe it is and has something to do with the SECU. You might want to do a search on here for it.
Last edited by NmexMAX; May 6, 2011 at 12:23 PM.
I have a question. I bought new HALO headlights for my car and the website confirmed that they would fit and function properly in my car. However, they arrived today and the plug ins for the wires are totally different. The plug is round on the new lights and want plug in to the blaist which takes a flat plug is there a kit to change it or a wire conversion from round to flat?
thanks
thanks
Last edited by MaxiBeast; May 6, 2011 at 05:52 PM.
Does anybody have a picture of a gray wheel skin with the frost/ light grey steering wheel? I looked at the pics in the wheel skin gallery and it seems pretty off from the interior of the max. I just don't want it to look 'cheap'. Thanks for the help!
I posted earlier with no response and searching just leads me in circles. After buying and driving my max for a while I noticed that my transmission was not shifting into gear properly. I then noticed that my driver side axle seal was leaking, so it was replaced and while I was underneath there I decided to go ahead and change the pan gasket. After taking the pan out and checking the fluid I noticed that the transmission had cracks where the pan was so I knew it needed to be replaced asap. I replaced the trans on sunday and and drove out of town. It did fine going, but when I came back I clearly notice I am still having the same issues .... The transmission simply took me from 80 to 60 mph. When starting out the trans will only let me do up to 20 mph.
What is happening:
- The transmission will not shift into gear
- It goes into first but will not go into second or third
-The transmission will be fine for a little while like after sitting for a couple of hours but it seems like when it warms up it acts up again.
Question: Could my problem be the transmission control module or the speed sensor? Should the TCM be reset?
I am going to search more but this its serious cause I am supposed to be moving to finish school and the school its in an area where I am going to be relying soley on maxine for transportation.
What is happening:
- The transmission will not shift into gear
- It goes into first but will not go into second or third
-The transmission will be fine for a little while like after sitting for a couple of hours but it seems like when it warms up it acts up again.
Question: Could my problem be the transmission control module or the speed sensor? Should the TCM be reset?
I am going to search more but this its serious cause I am supposed to be moving to finish school and the school its in an area where I am going to be relying soley on maxine for transportation.
I recently went to the track(yesterday) and ran my maxima, i got locked out of 3rd on one of my best runs which could of been better. Whats the average 1/4 mile time for a bone stock maxima ? I ran 15.1@95MPH with a 2.401 60 footer
The switch on the brake pedal could go bad, just like any part could. But they seem to be pretty rugged. It won't hurt to check it and its somewhat easy to get to. When the brake pedal is not depressed, the switch contacts are making a connection. The switch for cruise control has an orange wire going into it.
But there are a lot of other things, too. If you have a burned out brake light, the cruise control will not operate. If you put led brake lights in without load resistors, the cruise control will not operate. Fuses 23 (15 amp) and 30 (10 amp) in the dash panel fuse block and fuse 57 (10 amp) under the hood play a part.
If you look in a service manual, you need to know that Nissan calls cruise control ASCD, Automatic Speed Control Device.
But there are a lot of other things, too. If you have a burned out brake light, the cruise control will not operate. If you put led brake lights in without load resistors, the cruise control will not operate. Fuses 23 (15 amp) and 30 (10 amp) in the dash panel fuse block and fuse 57 (10 amp) under the hood play a part.
If you look in a service manual, you need to know that Nissan calls cruise control ASCD, Automatic Speed Control Device.
Hey i had a question about the difference between the H3c and H3 bulbs. I researched some and found that the H3c have a ground wire on it (not just the single one). On some applications, it is not possible to switch the two but would I be able to put H3c's in my fogs?
i have an 02 maxima n when i put hids in my fogs i had to get H3 never heard of H3c



