DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Unless you have experience diagnosing catalytic converters, take it to a muffler shop.

As far as the fuel pump theory, I don't buy into that. If the fuel pump couldn't deliver enough gas, the engine would be stumbling and bucking. A plugged cat is a more likely cause.

agavrysh

When engine is cold, it starts and I can run for about 15 minutes with ac on full. My temperature gauge stays at the normal position all that time. So basically, it reaches a normal temperature and stays there for about 10-15 minutes. After that it starts to go up, I have to turn off the AC and turn on the heater. I think with a heater on full I can go for another 20-30 minutes (but I live in Arizona so it's kind of unpleasant). I have already changed thermostat, but it didn't help. My water doesn't disappear or leak, so I don't think it's something major like crack head or blown gasket. What else should I consider changing? Can it be my water pump? I once had a problem with a water pump on a different car, but the car was overheating constantly at much higher rates.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Are you checking coolant level in the overflow, or in the radiator?

When it starts getting hot, will it cool down if you drive at highway speeds? Is the AC cooling well?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Also check that BOTH of your radiator fans are spinning. Both fans should run the instant you turn on the a/c.

Kensai

I am about to do a couple maintenance procedures for my 2003 Maxima and after reading the appropriate 'how to's,' I found that I couldn't get a definitive answer on when to lubricate certain gaskets and when not to. Perhaps I was searching in the wrong place, but I figure I'd ask directly here.

For each of these procedures, what Lubrication (or rtv) is required and how much?

1. 04 Valve Cover gaskets (front and rear) ?
2. Fuel Filter O ring ?
3. Automatic Transmission pan gasket ?

Thanks.

agavrysh

Coolant level in radiator is full, in overflow tank i have made it full once, then it leaked away, but now stays in the same level (my guess is that I just overfilled it). It only getting worst on highway. On highway even my heater wouldn't help me, but when I got off to streets, I was able to reach my destination with heater on of course. AC works fine, until the car starts to get hot, then it blows hot air. Thanks.

agavrysh

I just checked after running the car for about 25 minutes when I got home both fans were working, AC was already off by that time and heater was on.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Note that the valve cover gaskets are the same, it's the valve covers themselves that are cheaper in the event your plug tube seals are leaking.

You RTV the corners on the front of the valve cover gaskets.

The fuel filter o-rings don't really need lubricated, if you want to you can use dielectric grease, oil, silicone spray. Also, if you didn't know, the filter is in the tank.

The trans pan requires no sealant, just the gasket. Nissan recommends replacing the trans pan bolts every time they're removed as they're 'self-sealing' (if you look at a new bolt you can see the solid sealant on the threads), but I've never had an issue with reuse.

All of this and much more can be found in the FSM, you should keep a copy on hand for reference.

Can you check the temp of the radiator at the inlet and outlet points? Also make sure the fins aren't clogged up and there's no blockage of debris in between the condenser and radiator.

If you let it sit idling until it starts overheating, is it pushing coolant into the overflow?

Did you change both thermostats? Won't have much effect on overheating, but check for coolant flow from the secondary above 200 deg (opening point 203). Did you use an OE thermostat or aftermarket?

Did this start happening randomly, or after work was performed on the car? Anything you did, had done, or anything happened to the car immediately prior to it starting to overheat?

agavrysh

Sorry, how to check temp at inlet and outlet point? And where exactly is a condenser? I will check if it pushes coolant into overflow, but i think it does, since my overflow tank is now messed up and has holes. i had to duct tape it, I just ordered new one to replace it. Second thermostat? Where is it at? I bought from autozone thermostat housing with gasket. I have bought the car like that, so i really don't know if any work has been done on it.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

An IR thermometer would be best for checking the temps. Basically trying to make sure there isn't a heat dissipation problem with the radiator itself, looking for localized cool or hot spots.

The condenser sets directly in front of the radiator. Just make sure there isn't anything blocking airflow through the radiator.

The second thermostat (water outlet valve) is in the valley, underneath the LIM. It routes coolant from the block back to the rest of the system, an auxiliary design only used on '00-'01 models. As I said, not seeing that as a real likely cause for overheating, but anything's possible.

Kensai

Thanks a ton pmohr, I will keep the FSM close.

winchester80

Sorry to bump in, but can anyone tell me where I could post a question on some electrical craziness my 5th gen is giving me?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Right here.

winchester80

Ok, cool. Well here is the just
I had an arc with some wires that go to the halo lights on my car. I replaced all the wires that were burnt. Now, My parking lights want to stay on continuously, unless i remove the fue marked electrical parts/battery. With it out, everything is fully functional. Except for the memory to the radio and ac controls.

I already unplugged the cluster switches and it had no effect. Will it hurt to run without that fuse? Can't I just run 12+constant to the radio and the ac controls, and it will all be ok? Thanks for the help ahead of time...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Assuming you're talking about the bottom center fuse in the interior fuse box (fuse 12), that fuse should power many more systems than that, including the cluster, NATS, and the clock. Actually, I don't see the radio on that fuse at all, that's on fuse 56 (just it and the climate control) in the underhood fuse box.

Put the fuse back in and unplug the radio, do your parking lights turn off? Do the same with the climate control. After you either localize it to one of those two or eliminate them entirely, we can diagnose from there.

EDIT: On second look, fuse 56 just provides B+ to the radio, nothing else (not sure where I got the climate control link from earlier). The radio goes nowhere near fuse 12, and the climate control goes nowhere near fuse 56. Interesting. Still, pull the connectors on them one at a time and see if your parking lights go out. Is it just the exterior lights, or is the interior illumination on as well?

xoticar7

Where is a good place to ground an aftermarket amp in a 5th gen that is going to be mounted on the rear seat, without mounting on the shock?

winchester80

Its the fuse all the way to the left in the middle row. The dash lights are on just like I have my parking lights on. Oh, and the headlights will not cut on unless i have the key turned on with the fuse removed.

winchester80

I checked, it is fuse 12. I will have to recheck that the radio is not keeping memory. Do you know what all that fuse controls?

winchester80

Seat belt mount, as long as you prepare the surface by removing the paint surrounding it.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Definitely pull the radio and climate control, unplug one at a time and see if the problem persists. That's the best way to narrow it down to one of them, if indeed those are the only that aren't working right now.

It provides constant B+ to the TCM, clock, cluster, security light in the clock housing, climate control, and the OBD-II port.

What wires shorted together up front, do you know the wire colors and what they're for?

winchester80

They were the wires to the turn signal/parking lights. i will check this deal over the coming weekend. Well, maybe tomorrow..lol. So why does everything work so well without the fuse?

REDL1NE

iTrader: (2)

I just bought an 03 Maxima. Ive searched throughout and found a ton of useful info and have a very good idea of what needs to be done, but I thought I would post specific info and see where to start.

Big vibration above 55, popping around some turns and noise in the rear over bumps.

I think it needs 4 struts and a new tire as one is almost showing wires. Then an alignment.

Thoughts?

winchester80

Add a possible axle. It will also cause a vibration, especially if it is a remand, and not a new axle. I experienced this myself, as well as many others. Might wanna check ball joints as well as bushings. Is there a lot of sagging in the rear?

winchester80

Oh, and do not forget tire balancing!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

That's what I'm wondering as well. My thought at the moment is something is backfeeding power into the illumination circuit, just have to narrow down where. You'll also see the same thing when two filaments in a tail light bulb short together, hit the brakes and the dash lights come on.

Popping when turning could be an axle or front strut mounts, among other suspension components. Does it sound like this, or this?

Does it make the noise when sitting still and turning the wheel, or just while moving?

For the vibration, could be axles, tires, loose steering or suspension components, even a rotor that's not perfectly true. You say you've got a tire showing wires, there's likely a large part of your vibration right there. Replace worn out tires (preferably replacing either a pair or a set at a time), balance the rest.

Rear noise over bumps is likely strut mounts, but you should really check out the entire suspension with the car raised up. This will need to be done before even thinking about an alignment anyway, as loose/worn components will make it pointless.

winchester80

I will check things out and see what I come up with. Do you think it will hard anything by leaving that fuse out?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not really, no. Your trip meter will reset every time you turn the car off, clock won't hold the time, security indicator light won't work, and climate control won't hold your settings. You also won't likely be able to communicate with the OBD-II port, nothing major, just minor annoyances.

winchester80

Do you think it is possible that the secu could be the route of the problem? And if so , where can I get one cheap?

ckar

New to the forum, and to my Maxima. Bought a 2003 mint condition GLE from an elderly family friend recently, and love the car. Not a mark on it, with under 50K miles! Anyway, I really want to be able to plug in my smartphone to listen to my music, but obviously can't do that with the stock Bose head unit. I have been looking on Crutchfield.com, and many of their units come with a complete installation kit, etc. Anyone have any experience going through them? Positive/negative? Pics? Advice? Thanks.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Plenty have done it without issue.

If you have any technical questions, visit the audio/electronics subforum - specifically this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...nt-thread.html

REDL1NE

iTrader: (2)

Not too much sagging really, but kinda bump/popping noise from right rear.

thanks
Ill look at those when I get home. My work blocks everything it seems.
I dont really know on that, Ill check that after work.
I have plans to go in and replace 2 tires this weekend so I'll try to get them or perhaps myself to give some further information then also.
Ill check on the rest tonight.
Thanks for the info!

Romulus811

If your good with electrical stuff, look for the thread that tells how to add aux. to the factory head unit. Im not electrical wiz, but it was relatively easy for me to do and sounds amazing.

Romulus811

Also make note, that power loss is only really felt at mid-high RPM, like 3000-5500, and it shifts early.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The SECU is indeed a possibility, yes. It doesn't (directly) have anything to do with the fuse you pulled, so I wouldn't be dead set on it quite yet (though it does seem to provide a ground path for most circuits for RAP and such).

Cheap, junkyard, eBay, classifieds, etc.

weebs

Hello,

I want to put some l.e.d. bars in the interior of my max. I was thinking two up front under the dash, and two under the front seats for the rear.

My question is about powering these bars and wiring them. What would it take to wire the l.e.d.s? My one thought was somehow to wire them to the headlight switch but i do not know if that is possible. Could someone help me out at all with a bit of knowledge?

Thank you.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I would use the dashlight circuit but I would not tap into the headlight switch itself. I would tap into the ashtray dashlight and use this to energize a relay. Then I would tap into the cigarette lighter for the led strip power. This tap from the cigarette lighter would go through the relay contacts to the led strips.

grksoccerkid91

iTrader: (4)

I just bought a 2002 6spd maxima w/ 120k mi. The engine runs perfect and during the test drive and same night the car seems perfect. the clutch kinda vibrated a little when i pushed it down all the way but i didn't think much of it. now whenever i shift into third going over 4500rpm it grinds. my brotherin law thinks the clutch doesn't disengage off the motor completely. idk if it does it in 4th-6th because i'm not really ever over 4500 in 3rd to shift. 1st and 2nd are fine. the tech at the dealer i got it at (toyota dealer) says it's a "high performance aftermarket clutch" so it can last longer. i think that's bs and they just wanna get rid of me lol. he adjusted the clutch pedal and it feels better now but could it grinding into 3rd be anything else?


I've been a member forever because my sister had an 02 max 4at way back in 04-06 but it's been gone since then but i always loved maximas and now that i could get $ i decided to get my dream 02 6spd =] only it doesn't have an lsd =[

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Search '3rd gear crunch' in the 5th gen section. Very common.

breta1234

I have a 2000 Maxima SE. In the last year it has stalled three times. The first occasion was at the end of last summer. After a 2.5 hour trip the car stalled when I was approaching a stop light. It was hot outside at the time and the AC was going. After stalling the car would not start up so I called a tow truck. By the time the car was towed to the dealer (~ 1 hour) the car would start. The dealer could not replicate the problem, and I ended up taking the car back until the problem happened again. The problem did not happen over the winter including during several longer trips. However, about a month ago the car stalled again when approaching another stop light. Again it was hot outside with AC going. Again I had to have the car towed because it was in the middle of an intersection. Again by the time the car arrived at the dealer the car would start and the dealer could not replicate the problem. About a week ago the car stalled again. This time I was doing 65 mph on the highway. I would have waited this one out, but I was on a 8 foot shoulder with cars going by me at 65 mph with my son in the car. So, I called a tow truck and by the time I was at the dealer the car would start. The car is at the dealer now and they can't replicate the problem.

Other than this issue the car runs fine. I'm desperate at this point as I can't trust the car and the dealer can't find/fix the problem Help!

abdus002

Ok guys, dont make fun of me as I am a complete noob. So I'm trying to buy a maxima in the next couple of weeks and my budget is telling me to get one in the 5th generation. However I want know if I am getting ripped off or not. For a maxima in this generation with around 100-160k what is a good deal? And how long can a maxima run (how many miles?). Is the resale value good? Currently I have a black 2002 nissan sentra with 78k on it that Im trying to sell to get a maxima. Again I am a complete noob so bear with me.

Thanks