5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
06-19-2011, 04:12 PM
Okay, so I was looking under my hood and saw what looks to be like a missing hose or something. Here are the pics 
So there's a white tank under the battery and it has an opening, then there's the black piece thats on the front of the hood and has a opening at the bottom of it as well. Just wondering if this is normal or not, and whether or not it may effect the performance of my car.
So there's a white tank under the battery and it has an opening, then there's the black piece thats on the front of the hood and has a opening at the bottom of it as well. Just wondering if this is normal or not, and whether or not it may effect the performance of my car.
Last edited by 00MaxMayne; 06-19-2011 at 04:17 PM.
06-19-2011, 05:53 PM
Okay, so I was looking under my hood and saw what looks to be like a missing hose or something. Here are the pics So there's a white tank under the battery and it has an opening, then there's the black piece thats on the front of the hood and has a opening at the bottom of it as well. Just wondering if this is normal or not, and whether or not it may effect the performance of my car.
See part # 27 in the parts breakdown -
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...l/air_cleaner/
06-19-2011, 07:46 PM
At what mileage interval should the water pump be changed along with the timing chain with timing tensions ect?
Or its one of those things that don't touch if it ain't broke?
Or its one of those things that don't touch if it ain't broke?
Last edited by L36; 06-19-2011 at 07:48 PM.
06-19-2011, 07:54 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 165
Timing chains are, to generalize, for the life of the car. Waterpump is not known to me to be a major issue with our cars so much as our radiators. (core support rotting out from rust, or just radiator failure.) I am sure there are members who have done them in the later years of ownership. Search.
06-20-2011, 10:57 AM
I have to agree with VQPOWER. It's almost like you are avoiding the qusetions. Not answering the questions is keeping us from helping you.
Did you just add the fog lights or have they been on the car all along and they stopped working?
When you say un-install, that says to me that the lights are already on the car.
Wire it up says that the lights were not on the car originally and you (or somebody) installed them and now you want to complete the installation by adding the wires to the car.
Please tell us the history of these fog lights...
Did you just add the fog lights or have they been on the car all along and they stopped working?
When you say un-install, that says to me that the lights are already on the car.
Wire it up says that the lights were not on the car originally and you (or somebody) installed them and now you want to complete the installation by adding the wires to the car.
Please tell us the history of these fog lights...
06-20-2011, 11:38 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
If they are factory OEM fogs, then you should double check your fuses and ensure the relay is installed. The blue relay will be under the hood if I remember correctly. You have turned the fogs on via the light stalk, correct?
06-20-2011, 03:50 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 31
rear passenger caliper locked up
Just got back from the shop was told that my passenger rear caliper is locked destroying the rear right rotor and pad however the shop is telling me to replace both rear calipers, rotors and pads cost around 700 this doesnt make any sense cant i just replace the right rear caliper and rotors and both the pads on the rear...anyone have any recommendations on caliper brands and rotor brands trying to keep this as economical as possible without getting crappy quality. thanks
06-20-2011, 04:01 PM
Just got back from the shop was told that my passenger rear caliper is locked destroying the rear right rotor and pad however the shop is telling me to replace both rear calipers, rotors and pads cost around 700 this doesnt make any sense cant i just replace the right rear caliper and rotors and both the pads on the rear...anyone have any recommendations on caliper brands and rotor brands trying to keep this as economical as possible without getting crappy quality. thanks
No that doesn't make any sense. I would go with any caliper actually. My most recent set are from Autozone. No problems thus far.
Brakes are typically an easy job on this car.
06-21-2011, 07:52 PM
So I'm working on putting together a custom SRI and just recieved my Apexi filter (p/n 500-A021) however, I realized that I now need an adapter, however, there are two listed on the Apexi website. Would someone be so kind as to shed some light on the exact adapter that I need to purchase and if I can get it somewhere else for a cheaper price. I'm thinking that the adapter that I need is p/n 500-AA07
Here is the website where I am getting the information:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?i...et=17330&rsku=
Edit: Will this adapter work just as well as the one from Apexi?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-3-Universal-...item2a05977074
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Here is the website where I am getting the information:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?i...et=17330&rsku=
Edit: Will this adapter work just as well as the one from Apexi?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-3-Universal-...item2a05977074
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Last edited by kbcnd; 06-21-2011 at 08:45 PM.
06-22-2011, 06:30 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3
I confirmed that the resistor had a blown thermal fuse and replaced that. The replaced blower motor only has one black and one red wire. I am getting voltage perportional to the fan speed at both the wires coming out of the dash when I ground them to the car. I think this means I got the wrong motor. Autozone still suggests that this is the correct part but admits that it is a single speed and will give me my money back.
Can anyone confirm that this is in fact the wrong motor or is there some way to make it work.
06-22-2011, 07:45 PM
So tomorrow plus a few.
I confirmed that the resistor had a blown thermal fuse and replaced that. The replaced blower motor only has one black and one red wire. I am getting voltage perportional to the fan speed at both the wires coming out of the dash when I ground them to the car. I think this means I got the wrong motor. Autozone still suggests that this is the correct part but admits that it is a single speed and will give me my money back.
Can anyone confirm that this is in fact the wrong motor or is there some way to make it work.
I confirmed that the resistor had a blown thermal fuse and replaced that. The replaced blower motor only has one black and one red wire. I am getting voltage perportional to the fan speed at both the wires coming out of the dash when I ground them to the car. I think this means I got the wrong motor. Autozone still suggests that this is the correct part but admits that it is a single speed and will give me my money back.
Can anyone confirm that this is in fact the wrong motor or is there some way to make it work.
But I don't know what you mean when you say "I am getting voltage perportional to the fan speed at both the wires coming out of the dash when I ground them to the car." If you ground a wire with voltage on it, you will see a spark as the fuse blows.
And I'm not exactly what wires you are "grounding". Are these the wires that go to the blower motor?
06-23-2011, 04:18 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Guys,
I am a new owner of a 1998 Maxima, automatic, in great condition, no rust, runs well. I need to replace the two hood props, and have ordered them. How do you get the originals off?
Second, how can I tell if the previous owner had the timing belt replaced?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Randy
Ithaca, NY
1998 Nissan Maxima GLE
I am a new owner of a 1998 Maxima, automatic, in great condition, no rust, runs well. I need to replace the two hood props, and have ordered them. How do you get the originals off?
Second, how can I tell if the previous owner had the timing belt replaced?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Randy
Ithaca, NY
1998 Nissan Maxima GLE
Welcome to the forums though.
Also, We don't have timing belts, we have timing chains that don't need to be replaced unless it's broke. Good luck.
06-23-2011, 10:25 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 274
I have a 2002 Maxima and I'm planning on replacing the coils and plugs since I've been getting an intermittent rough idle lately. I've been shopping around online and I see some sites that have the part but are labeled as being for cars produced after 9/31/01. What's the deal here? Aren't the engines the same in all '02 models with a 3.5L? I asked one of their "experts" and he said the "setup" is different but couldn't tell me what the difference was. It seems to me that a part number is a part number.
Is there actually a difference here based on production date?
EDIT: I should add, my Max has a production date of 07/01.
Is there actually a difference here based on production date?
EDIT: I should add, my Max has a production date of 07/01.
Last edited by Unclejunebug; 06-23-2011 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Added production date.
06-23-2011, 10:45 AM
Correct, the lights don't work so it's either the fuse of it's just not connected, when I bought the car they weren't working either.
06-23-2011, 12:18 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 274
I have a 2002 Maxima and I'm planning on replacing the coils and plugs since I've been getting an intermittent rough idle lately. I've been shopping around online and I see some sites that have the part but are labeled as being for cars produced after 9/31/01. What's the deal here? Aren't the engines the same in all '02 models with a 3.5L? I asked one of their "experts" and he said the "setup" is different but couldn't tell me what the difference was. It seems to me that a part number is a part number.
Is there actually a difference here based on production date?
EDIT: I should add, my Max has a production date of 07/01.
Is there actually a difference here based on production date?
EDIT: I should add, my Max has a production date of 07/01.
06-23-2011, 03:35 PM
Searched and searched. But if anyone who knows enough to give me a good answer. What is going to give me better sound (loudness) still staying away from fart can sound haha. The Tsudo N1 or the Megan Racing? In a dilemma. Help.
06-23-2011, 09:43 PM
But when something is significantly cheaper, I question its durability/life span.
06-24-2011, 05:37 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
It's a matter of personal preference; what's "fart car sound" to you, could be nice music to somebody else's ears. I think you'd be better off finding that out on your own. I, personally, don't like either. But that's just me.
06-24-2011, 03:33 PM
Okay, before buying a new radiator altogether I figured I'd come here and ask a question.
My coolant goes from max to just below where the hose connects to the coolant tank (within the course of a day), so to me this is saying that there isn't a leak in my tank but perhaps somewhere along the lines of my hoses / radiator. I do have the leak signs with coolant sprayed all over the engine bay so I was going with the idea that my radiator has just gone bad. I removed my radiator cap and there's still antifreeze inside of that, which is odd to me because I've simply been putting water in my coolant tank to save money.
So my questions are.. Can it be my radiator leaking if the coolant is still sitting in the area under my cap? And how can I check if the hose(s) are bad, to possibly avoid changing my radiator if its not needed.
My coolant goes from max to just below where the hose connects to the coolant tank (within the course of a day), so to me this is saying that there isn't a leak in my tank but perhaps somewhere along the lines of my hoses / radiator. I do have the leak signs with coolant sprayed all over the engine bay so I was going with the idea that my radiator has just gone bad. I removed my radiator cap and there's still antifreeze inside of that, which is odd to me because I've simply been putting water in my coolant tank to save money.
So my questions are.. Can it be my radiator leaking if the coolant is still sitting in the area under my cap? And how can I check if the hose(s) are bad, to possibly avoid changing my radiator if its not needed.
06-24-2011, 04:09 PM
06-24-2011, 08:13 PM
What is the torque spec for the bolts that go on the caliper mounting bracket? I have read that is it is 53-72 ft-lbf, but my Nissan Service Manual says 102-122 ft-lbf which is way too much. I cross reference 2 service manuals and they says the same things.
Looking at it, 53-72 ft-lbf makes more sense.
Anyone?
Looking at it, 53-72 ft-lbf makes more sense.
Anyone?
06-24-2011, 10:22 PM
P1800 is for the VIAS control solenoid/valve, on the intake manifold. It's the valve next to the vacuum canister that opens/closes the VIAS butterfly. You'll want to do the basics like checking for power and ground at the solenoid and checking for a click and a change in vacuum operation when manually activated.
Okay, before buying a new radiator altogether I figured I'd come here and ask a question.
My coolant goes from max to just below where the hose connects to the coolant tank (within the course of a day), so to me this is saying that there isn't a leak in my tank but perhaps somewhere along the lines of my hoses / radiator. I do have the leak signs with coolant sprayed all over the engine bay so I was going with the idea that my radiator has just gone bad. I removed my radiator cap and there's still antifreeze inside of that, which is odd to me because I've simply been putting water in my coolant tank to save money.
So my questions are.. Can it be my radiator leaking if the coolant is still sitting in the area under my cap? And how can I check if the hose(s) are bad, to possibly avoid changing my radiator if its not needed.
My coolant goes from max to just below where the hose connects to the coolant tank (within the course of a day), so to me this is saying that there isn't a leak in my tank but perhaps somewhere along the lines of my hoses / radiator. I do have the leak signs with coolant sprayed all over the engine bay so I was going with the idea that my radiator has just gone bad. I removed my radiator cap and there's still antifreeze inside of that, which is odd to me because I've simply been putting water in my coolant tank to save money.
So my questions are.. Can it be my radiator leaking if the coolant is still sitting in the area under my cap? And how can I check if the hose(s) are bad, to possibly avoid changing my radiator if its not needed.
What is the torque spec for the bolts that go on the caliper mounting bracket? I have read that is it is 53-72 ft-lbf, but my Nissan Service Manual says 102-122 ft-lbf which is way too much. I cross reference 2 service manuals and they says the same things.
Looking at it, 53-72 ft-lbf makes more sense.
Anyone?
Looking at it, 53-72 ft-lbf makes more sense.
Anyone?
The torque member bolts are 14mm (IIRC), which can easily handle the specified torque.
06-24-2011, 11:43 PM
Pmohr,
I have 2000 Max SE 5 Sp, so yes it is A33 chassis. Thank you for clarification, a lot of people here ran 53-72 ft/lb. I will go with 102-122 ft-lbf, maybe call Nissan Dealer tomorrow just to make sure.
Thanks again
I have 2000 Max SE 5 Sp, so yes it is A33 chassis. Thank you for clarification, a lot of people here ran 53-72 ft/lb. I will go with 102-122 ft-lbf, maybe call Nissan Dealer tomorrow just to make sure.
Thanks again
06-25-2011, 12:03 AM
The wheel studs are 12mm, and will handle ~100 ft/lbs without issue; a 14mm bolt will go much higher. Unlike a lot of other places in the car, the bolts are threading into a steel torque member, not an aluminum piece.
Honestly, the exact torque spec isn't critical; tight is just fine. Most anything short of finger tight will hold in place without backing out.
06-25-2011, 12:45 PM
Note that the dealer will go right from the FSM as well.
The wheel studs are 12mm, and will handle ~100 ft/lbs without issue; a 14mm bolt will go much higher. Unlike a lot of other places in the car, the bolts are threading into a steel torque member, not an aluminum piece.
Honestly, the exact torque spec isn't critical; tight is just fine. Most anything short of finger tight will hold in place without backing out.
The wheel studs are 12mm, and will handle ~100 ft/lbs without issue; a 14mm bolt will go much higher. Unlike a lot of other places in the car, the bolts are threading into a steel torque member, not an aluminum piece.
Honestly, the exact torque spec isn't critical; tight is just fine. Most anything short of finger tight will hold in place without backing out.
06-25-2011, 01:57 PM
You can change just the sensor, no real need to change out the housing unless you don't have the proper torx bit or the housing is very dirty, or has sustained damage of some sort.
06-27-2011, 08:40 AM
Ok so when I turn on my lights both low beams illuminate but after about 5 seconds my driver side bulb turns a shade of purple for 2 seconds and then completely shuts off. This basically happens every time I turn my lights on. This is just a bulb issue or would this be a ballast issue? Thanks.
06-27-2011, 11:20 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 3
I have a very important question! someone please help! I ordered both LCA's today from napa. They had napa brand, and another cheaper brand called ultra-8. The guy as the store swore up and down that the ultra-8 were of equal quality to the more expensive option. Has anybody ever used this brand? I would like to hear any feedback that anyone has on this brand!!! Thanks in advance! Hope to get some replies asap as I am planning on replacing them on thursday.
06-29-2011, 08:29 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2
AC leak on valve
I have a 2001 Maxima SE and I always recharge the AC myself. Last time I did it refrigerant started leaking out of the low-sid epressure valve. The pin inside the valve had somehow become stuck and bent. I got a screwdriver to move it clsoed again but now I need to recharge and I know that it won't work right or that if I try I will probably make the valve worse. I have no idea how to replace it or what it would entail> I have heard about the valve maybe being called a scrader valve. Is this accurate? Please help!
06-29-2011, 01:30 PM
I have a 2001 Maxima SE and I always recharge the AC myself. Last time I did it refrigerant started leaking out of the low-sid epressure valve. The pin inside the valve had somehow become stuck and bent. I got a screwdriver to move it clsoed again but now I need to recharge and I know that it won't work right or that if I try I will probably make the valve worse. I have no idea how to replace it or what it would entail> I have heard about the valve maybe being called a scrader valve. Is this accurate? Please help!
The valves screw into the tube that it is in. Take the plastic cap off and you will see the threads. But if you take the Schrader valve out, you will lose all your R134, so you nedd to have the a/c system evacuated (all the R134 sucked out) before you change the valve. So unless you have all the tools for servicing a/c, you're gonna have to have a shop replace the Schrader valve.
06-29-2011, 02:58 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 44
Hi folks, could use some help here!!
I have a 1995 Maxima that has developed a problem after running sea foam through it. A couple of days after, it stopped running past 1800 RPM, just like it had a rev limiter or something. I disconnected the TPS and it revved & runs fine, but now idles too high (1800 rpm in gear, 1100 in neutral). I replaced the knock sensor, TPS (TWICE), air boot, and cleaned both the IACV and MAF sensor to no avail. I also tried the ECU reset/throttle learning technique. Any ideas? Thx a bunch..... :-)
I have a 1995 Maxima that has developed a problem after running sea foam through it. A couple of days after, it stopped running past 1800 RPM, just like it had a rev limiter or something. I disconnected the TPS and it revved & runs fine, but now idles too high (1800 rpm in gear, 1100 in neutral). I replaced the knock sensor, TPS (TWICE), air boot, and cleaned both the IACV and MAF sensor to no avail. I also tried the ECU reset/throttle learning technique. Any ideas? Thx a bunch..... :-)
06-29-2011, 05:18 PM
I'm looking into swapping my 00 front bumper for a 02 one so I figured I'd go ahead and get the 02 headlights as well. My question is, are the 02 headlights already HID ready or do I need to buy a conversion kit for them?
06-29-2011, 05:34 PM
The valves screw into the tube that it is in. Take the plastic cap off and you will see the threads. But if you take the Schrader valve out, you will lose all your R134, so you nedd to have the a/c system evacuated (all the R134 sucked out) before you change the valve. So unless you have all the tools for servicing a/c, you're gonna have to have a shop replace the Schrader valve.
There are some tools out there to allow replacement of the schraders without discharging the system, relatively cheap IIRC (~$50).
Youtube vid of one, not for R134a though - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ibi2...layer_embedded
Hi folks, could use some help here!!
I have a 1995 Maxima that has developed a problem after running sea foam through it. A couple of days after, it stopped running past 1800 RPM, just like it had a rev limiter or something. I disconnected the TPS and it revved & runs fine, but now idles too high (1800 rpm in gear, 1100 in neutral). I replaced the knock sensor, TPS (TWICE), air boot, and cleaned both the IACV and MAF sensor to no avail. I also tried the ECU reset/throttle learning technique. Any ideas? Thx a bunch..... :-)
I have a 1995 Maxima that has developed a problem after running sea foam through it. A couple of days after, it stopped running past 1800 RPM, just like it had a rev limiter or something. I disconnected the TPS and it revved & runs fine, but now idles too high (1800 rpm in gear, 1100 in neutral). I replaced the knock sensor, TPS (TWICE), air boot, and cleaned both the IACV and MAF sensor to no avail. I also tried the ECU reset/throttle learning technique. Any ideas? Thx a bunch..... :-)
When you are replacing the TPS, are you sure you're properly adjusting it? Can you read the TPS percentage from the ECU when it's hitting this limiter?
Also, if it's idling too high with the TPS unplugged, adjust the IACV; it should be right at spec with the TPS unplugged, that's the first step in properly setting the idle.
What do you mean 'HID ready'? All 02-03s had HIDs factory. You won't be able to plug them right up, but they are HIDs.
06-29-2011, 06:42 PM
Hi everyone. I have a 2k2 SE and the sunroof recently started acting up. For example, when I go to vent it, I have to hit the button 4-5 times before it moves. Also, It has opened part way on it's own and if I have it completely open and slide the lever fully closed, it closes halfway and stops. Any tips on a fix or shedding light on the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!