SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

The cheap $20 ebay FSTB that I've had in my car for nearly 3 years now made a significant difference verses not having it. There may be more adjustment with a higher-end piece, but I'm sure the results are very similar.

That's just my $.02 of course. I have no evidence to disprove that however as I've only had the one version on my personal car.

But I'm rarely wrong

MG-SVT

Looking for some advice. Starting a battle with rust ... the New England winters haven't been nice to this white Maxima.

First, a question: My lower radiator support was completely rotted out and the engine mount was disconnected. Spent $1200 at a bodyshop replacing everything. I did some forum searching via Google and found this is a common problem with the 4th gens, but has anyone had problems with the 5th gens? I couldn't find any 5th gen threads.

Now, I'm battling rust by the rear door, just in front of the wheel well. Right where the sheetmetal curls up just before the tire. It's very localized but I'm noticing it just barely beginning to rot. Is this common, and any advice on a cheap (possibly ugly) but effective repair, especially since it is just starting? I know this is going to progress soon and don't want it looking like a '93 Accord.

Also looking at hood dings and a hint of bubbling on the hood by the driver's headlight. Quoted $600 to repair/repaint but haven't bothered yet, since I also detected some tiny bubbling on the A-pillars.

I like the car and don't really want to get rid of it so soon ... I haven't found any new vehicle I like that has the luxury options this has. It has been tempting though.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

1. I haven't heard alot about it, but my front crossmemeber is very rusty and partially rottd out where the front motor mount connects. That said, I'm not doing anything about it since that mount doesn't really hold too much weight and there are 3 other motor mounts.

2. Never heard of rust in the by the door....but the '93 accord comment is funny and so true (though I had a '92).

3. Crappy paint...get used to it. Every maxima owner's biggest problem, especially on the front bumper and hood....

infie

Ok, here goes. I test drove a 2000 Maxima SE tonight and the dealer told me before I took it out that it's a bit "hesitant" on the higher gears and that his mechanics mentioned that they probably just need to clean the fuel filter and do an oil change on it. He mentioned the filter hadn't been changed for the whole life of the car (which I don't doubt). It has 93,000 miles on it.

It's an automatic. The first 2 gears seemed fast and what I'd come to expect from this nice car, but then it got kinda sloppy on the higher gears when I hit 50-80 mph on the highway.

So I guess my question is this: what is the most common problem that 2000 SE's with around 90,000 miles face that would cause the car to behave like this? Would the answer be ignition coils? I hear that they're commonly faulty in these models and that Nissan has failed to recall them, yet has re-issued new coils for replacements (pretty crappy way of doing business if you ask me).

So what do you all I think? Oh, and btw, I didn't buy the car yet. I'm waiting to see if they can fix it on Monday, but they think it's the fuel filter. What's the most common problem? Any advice?

MacGarnicle

iTrader: (1)

Not going to speculate what the problem is - but I do question going into a deal where there is a known problem with the car.. there are a lot of 2000 Maxima SE's out there.. give it a week and find a car that runs fine.

Unless the price is very attractive?

infie

^ The price is pretty good actually. This is the SE with heated black leather seats, black exterior, bose sound system, etc. I traded in a car for 1700 and the total price after taxes for the Maxima is 7,500 bucks. Again, 93,000 miles on it. From what I can tell the interior and exterior are almost flawless. It is a nice looking car, but I want this stuff fixed before I plunk down any money.

Oh, I'll refuse to buy it completely if they don't fix it first. You're right, I'll find another one if need be. I'm just somehow doubting that the fuel filter alone could cause such a drop off in power in the higher gears like that. Sure, it might cause it a bit. We'll see. I'm definitely test driving it again after they supposedly "fix it." Without a doubt.

I think I should get some code readouts though at an Autozone even if they did something to make it perform well again. I still want to check it out.

nicenotrice

Does anyone know if the Berk Intake for the 02 maxima will fit onto my 2002 infiniti I35? and if not what are my options for it?

MG-SVT

I'd personally recommend you look into it. When my motor mount was freed completely from the support (crossmember/tiebar) the engine was audibly clunking around when I was in 1st or 2nd gear. The bodyshop replaced the rusty hood latch mechanism at the same time because they were worried about it too.

I don't see an option to attach files otherwise I would take one of the rust by the door. It's tiny now but definitely progressing.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I had the motor mounts off a couple months ago. Although it is rusty as hell, there is still plenty of structural integrity to the crossmember, from what I can tell. If it breaks, it breaks. This car is too old to bother with spending alot of cash on something like that at this point...

maybe I'll just weld a secondary brace onto it

huffdaddy2008

iTrader: (1)

it should...check out ur engine bay compared to an 02/03 maxima...it should be exactly the same.

CCS2k1Max

iTrader: (2)

Irish, either my car's front end must have been flexing excessively or my butt dyno is pretty sensitive. I consider the Otto a mid point between the cheapo ebay braces and the Stealin. I'm not even bringing the Cattman into this comparo. Also, I can see some of the $1.95 braces bowing under hard stress.

Nissanx54

does anyone know if they make a CF front lip for 5.5 gens?

CoolMax

iTrader: (7)

I believe Stillen does: http://www.stillen.com/browse.asp?b=&c=EX&s=BODY
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....43#post4842943

Pragmatic

Hi folks,
sort of an howdy / what's wrong with my car post...

I purchased a 2000 Maxima GLE 74kms recently. It had stalled when I test driven it and the dealership replaced the MAF. Test drove jim dandy afterwards and so we did the deal.

300 kms later the service engine soon light came on. Will be getting in touch with the dealer ASAP and I know I need the code but what can I expect the problem to be?

Thanks!

Nissanx54

Stillen does not make a CF Lip. the forum link you posted is for a CF splitter there is a difference between a lip and splitter.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

it could be any of hundreds of things. most common code is O2 sensor

PandaXpress

iTrader: (80)

OK guys, I have a couple of things i need to ask..Any help would be greatly appreciated!

1. I don't know wtf is going on with my right wheel. Let me explain. When im driving at high speeds and I slow down, I start hearing this squeaking sound. Sometimes it sounds like my brake pad is worn down and its metal/metal rubbing. It start from high speeds and once I drive from that point on, I hear it all the way to wherever im going. OR when im driving, i hear a swishing sounds coming from the passenger side wheel (i don't know if its the rear or front b/c I haven't had someone else drive my car). Whenever it does that swish sound, I hear it the rest of the way until i reach my destination. Now, when i start my car up again and drive, all the sounds are gone.

Its not my brake fluid, the wheel doesnt seem to have any play what-so-ever, the brake pad where changed about 5k ago, and the rotor seems to be in good condition with no cracks. This sound just suddenly decided to start happening. What could it possibly be?

2. I hear can hear my rear springs creaking and squeaking while im on the freeway or on ANY type of bumpy/uneven surface. What is a possible fix for that?

3. I hear a sound that reminds me of change, jiggling in a pocket, while im driving anywhere. It comes from the B pillar but i cant seem to find it. Ive had a friend try to help me find it and still nothing. Any suggestions?

4. Wind noise from the rear windows......(this is not a question..merely something felt i should state b/c i need to fix that crap too..but i know how b/c of the HOW-TO section)

5. This sheit is driving me crazy, all these fukcen sounds. My solution is turning up my system REALLY loud, that way all i hear is my rear deck flexing. Which isnt really a fix b/c its just causing more things to become loose. I realized I cant have my system bumping at all time, so I just want to stop all these damn sounds.

THANKS for ANY help ON THESE issues!!

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

1. the code can be read using an OBDII scanner. Most car-parts places have one that they will let you use to read your code. Get the code, then look in the stickys up top in this section to figure out what the code is for. THEN go back to the dealer and tell them the code, and have them fix the problem. Sounds like they just cleared the code last time, and it reappeared (i.e. they didn't fix the problem).

2. take the engine cover off (4 hex bolts) and see if all of the coil packs have a "gray dot" on them. If not, they are not the upgraded coils. Insist that the dealer replace them with the updated coils.

3. As sooner said...could be an 02.

PandaXpress

iTrader: (80)

Anyone??????

randycacc

My 01 Maxima has been stalling often. The problem has been getting worse over the past 6 months. I found this website yesterday and its been a huge help (I have no clue what took me so long). From the symptoms it's probably the MAF and I purchased one yesterday through DaveB at just $91 including shipping. I'm going to replace the MAF this week. Can anyone tell me if a standard T20 Torx is sufficient or do I need a tamperproof Torx? And will I need a long extension for the 10mm ratchet to remove the airbox?

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

you actually dont need a torx at all... when you get the MAF its going to come as the entire black tube with the screen and the new sensor on top... so your actually throwing the old sensor and its 'tube' out,... and when taking out the airbox,.. i find it eaiser taking the part of the airbox completly out of the car from-filter point to MAF where it clips on with a metal ring and then i think its 4 10mm bolts,... trust me.. if your trying to reach down with twisting extensions.. good luck you will be swearing at your car for a while,..also you really might want to consider getting a new air filter so the new maf is sucking only clean air ... also i dont have one but i know theres an awsome HOW TO: around somewhere,.. check the stickies in the 5th gen forum,.. also check the 'search before you post' sticky.. that might help you locate info alot faster..good luck

PandaXpress

iTrader: (80)

Can no one answer my questions???? Seriously?

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

2 no idea sorry,... 3 keep searching in the car there has to be a lose screw/nut/something broken somewhere? lol

and 1 ,.. heres the potential fix,... go under your car,.. (you might have to jack up the front end),.. and locate the rotor,..on the back side of the rotor oppisite the brake caliper you wil lsee a round metal shield that mimics the rotor,.. pull back on it hard so you are pulling away from the rotor,... sometimes this can get bent in and cause thats swishing noise everytime it contacts the rotor on revolutions.... also... what kind of pads? you sure they were installed correctly? cuz that noise could also be the warning noise for bad pads but 5K ago.. hmm?,.. also.. no vibration from the rotors? ... hope my first solution helps something

randycacc

Thanks for the guidance and quick reply. I found some great info on this site. This is going to save me $$ and avoid the dealer. Some of the threads say I need to have the ECU reset to improve gas mileage after replacing the MAF. If you have a minute let me know if you think that needs that needs to be done.

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

well personally i have replace mine through dave B just like you,.. never had the reflash done by the dealer,.. i just disconnected my battery for idk?the day and then hooked it back up and i was all good and damn the car felt like new..some say you do some say you dont,.. you should be fine w/out it save ur $

ohh also IMO only reason you would need reflash if you see ur mpg go to crap,..or if you get a CEL that wont simply go away by unpluging the battery

Pragmatic

Thanks for the heads up. The friendly dealer said it was an O2 sensor but found it still working. He said the sensor was "slow" in responding and thus threw a code. He cleared the code but said he would replace the sensor if it reappears. Here's hoping!

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

its going to come back,... if its the same dealer where you bought the car from and if its recently,.. i would be pissed because he ignored the problem and blew you off.... i dont care how "NICE" they are ,.. i would tell them they HAVE to replace it or else there is going to be a problem... or else your going to end up waiting till ur out of warrenty and then emptying out your pockets to the stealer

Brianm0121

I have a question about a weird sound coming from my front right wheel.

Ok here's my story, last Sunday I drove from Orlando back to Tampa to where I live, as anyone who drives on I-4 in Orlando knows there's non-stop construction going on and it never ends, anyways I was driving back towards Tampa and the roads had little raises and drops in them because of past construction and what not, well anyways I was driving the normal interstate speed but I hit one of the raises on the roads pretty hard going about 65, wasn't going over the speed limit considering it's only 70 but I was going a little bit slower because of the construction, everyone around was atleast going the same or higher. When I hit the raised road I definatly felt the force that the car hit it at and than I heard as if it sounded like a bunch of rubble/dirt or something on the road got kicked up into my wheel and than the stuff must of got kicked out of the wheel in seconds as the sound stopped.

Anyways as I was continuing home 10-15 min after the incident I started to notice a new weird rythmic kind of sound that started to come from my front right wheel and the sound corresponds with my vehicles speed. The slower I go the slower the sound the faster I go the faster it is, and when i'm stopped it doesn't make any sound, but it seems to be getting worse as I keep driving my vehicle. I took my tire off when I got home and there's no visable damage done to the tire treads or anything else, so it's not the tire, but it may be something else but i'm not sure what. I was wondering if anyone could give me some suggestions of what it may be? Any helps with be appreciated please I really need to get this checked out but I just want to shed some light on it before I do. And with the suggestions put can you also place the price of installation of the price of what needs to be replaced? Thanks!

Edit: Sure it doesn't matter but it's a 2002 SE Maxima.

lake3031

I have a puzzling question...I owe an 01 max se ae auto. I am getting a sulfur/rotten egg smell in the interior every now and than when i'm driving. I already replaced the cat and all piping, flange and also the battery, and rear down-stream o2 sensor. Now i have a PO160 coming up. Car has 64k on it. Any suggestions on the smell?

Also anyone have an approx. time of removal of old suspension/install of H-Tech springs, illumina (shocks and struts)?????

lake3031

It's possible that it could be your wheel bearing.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

check the dust shield. It might have gotten bumped by some road debris or something and is slightly touching the backside of the rotor...that's alll I can think of at the moment.

Did you install spring isolators?
Are all the bolts (top and bottom) torqued to spec?

pop off the inner b-pillar trim and take a look, I suppose.

check housecor's site for how to fix the wind noise and rear deck fix. www.innerbean.com/housecor and go to the how-to section.

THANKS for ANY help ON THESE issues!! [/QUOTE]

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

could be a couple of things:

1. it knocked the wheel out of alignment, causing the tire to be toe-in or out, making noise
2. it bent the strut slightly, causing the camber to be negative, and loud tire noise as a result. Trust me, I know this from experience.
3. it is a combination of 2 and 3.
4. it cracked the wheel bearing. This would not be visible, but any good shop should be able to diagnose a wheel bearing bad even without taking off the wheel.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

can't help with the code, but if you know what you're doing and have a spring compressor, you should be able to swap out springs/struts in about 2-3 hours. If it's your first time, probably more like 4-5....

Brianm0121

Thank you very much for giving me some info, it helps a lot, I was thikning of all of those already with search throughout google, the best possible options it seems to be is either alignment or a wheel bearing, hopefully it's just an alignment job as it will be a fraction of the cost of a new wheel bearing, and I thought about the strut myself but havn't seen anyone else with a problem like mine that came up with that solution but I will keep all of these in mind and take it to the shop tomorrow, thanks again!

JohnWEngle

from: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/index.php

P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

djcallao

I have a problem. Yesterday I stopped in the middle of the street. I wanted to see what my MAX had if I put the pedal to the floor. I gunned it and my rpm's went to 4500 and stayed there and I didn't go over 40 mph. It didnt shift down or anything. Also I was driving and all of a sudden at 40mph the max didnt go any faster for about 5 seconds with my foot on the gas. I know it is a tranny problem, I just do not know what kind. Please can anyone help?
Thanks

rrj72

ok so I've looked through the parts list and done the free google search and I still can't seem to find the link to the clear headlight circle for a 02 max, I know I've seen them on here before but can't find the post.

Also, I found an ebay link to some clear side markers but they are some brand I've never heard of. On my last car I had the pro car parts side markers and I liked those alot but they seem to be out of stock, anyone know where to buy them thats in stock?

Thanks!
Ryan

blkAEmax82

iTrader: (16)

hey ryan i got my clear lights from ebay .. there pretty good .. just a reference. hope it helps .. Stillen has some and so does Sport Compact only ..

rrj72

thanks for the reply. I was looking at the pics of the pcp clear side markers and the ebay ones and they look the same so I going to order those.

if anyone knows where to get the clear piece for the headlight im still looking for it..thanks

lake3031

Hey..thanks for the information on that code, but I already knew that by scanning it. My question should have been with that code, Po160, does anyone know why if is giving off that rotten egg/ sulfur smell?

Thanks