5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
04-20-2007, 05:17 PM
#1761
Originally Posted by jocoo
Still debating whether or not to get an intake for my 2002 maxima, what are the benifits from it and are there any risks i.e. water or dust getting into engine. Also any recommendations on which one i should get besides injen or berk?
04-20-2007, 08:39 PM
#1762
I guess it would be appropriate for me to post here... I just installed a Warpspeed y-pipe. A day after, I got around 20miles in the new y, and then I got the SES. I tried searching for some info, but didn't really help. I found a write up for 2k2-2k3 on how to reset the TCM but it didn't work for my 2k. Can anyone comfirm the these 2k2 reset procedures for 2k or did I do something wrong? Here's the link (post #94)
I would really appreciate the help. Thanks in advance.
I would really appreciate the help. Thanks in advance.
04-20-2007, 09:01 PM
#1763
Originally Posted by irish44j
sounds like you didn't align the top hat assembly correctly, or didn't seat the spring correctly on the lower seat. the Eibachs have more preload than alot of other springs so they accentuate the problem. I suggest you take them off and inspect to make sure everything is assembled correctly and pointed the correct direction.
04-20-2007, 11:40 PM
#1764
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 91
Originally Posted by gimmethayayo
I just bought a 2k for 6k with 129k on it. I don't have some of the "goodies" that the newer models have. So I was wondering if I could 1) swap my cd player for a 6 disc in-dash cd changer & 2) swap my regular steering wheel for the one with the audio controls.
Enjoy blowing all your extra $$$ on the ride.
04-21-2007, 09:59 AM
#1766
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by choopster
can an automatic trans cluster fit on manual trans maxima without any problem?
04-21-2007, 10:03 AM
#1767
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by aamir
Thanks irish for the suggestion. The top hat assembly was not aligned correctly so I fixed that. But there is another problem now. While putting the wheel back on, two of the studs that the lug nuts screw onto broke off. I now need to replace that so I was wondering if there are directions on how to do that. Thanks for any help.
When installing the new studs, just put it through the holes in the hub on the back side, and make sure to tighten them down using a lugnut first (put a couple washers over the stud, then torque down the lug nut). Then re-install your brakes and wheels, and you're done. For a few days after, try to re-torque the lugs to make sure they have seated completely.
Here's some pictures of what I'm talking about (albeit this is for the rear, so it'll be similar but not exactly the same)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/695690/8
04-23-2007, 05:48 AM
#1768
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 17
Alright, I was doing some maintenance on my maxima and I saw that the tie rod ends were shredded. Are these hard to replace - do you need a press, etc? I was wondering if it's just that bushing and it needs to be pressed in, then it probably won't be worth it to try and do myself or outside of a shop. I get good deals on oem parts so I usually buy them myself assuming I can handle the install.
Anyone want to buy a 20th AE max? :P
Anyone want to buy a 20th AE max? :P
04-23-2007, 01:53 PM
#1769
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
You're going to have to remove your rotors and then the studs come out through the back. Just one good whack with a hammer will do it.
When installing the new studs, just put it through the holes in the hub on the back side, and make sure to tighten them down using a lugnut first (put a couple washers over the stud, then torque down the lug nut). Then re-install your brakes and wheels, and you're done. For a few days after, try to re-torque the lugs to make sure they have seated completely.
Here's some pictures of what I'm talking about (albeit this is for the rear, so it'll be similar but not exactly the same)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/695690/8
When installing the new studs, just put it through the holes in the hub on the back side, and make sure to tighten them down using a lugnut first (put a couple washers over the stud, then torque down the lug nut). Then re-install your brakes and wheels, and you're done. For a few days after, try to re-torque the lugs to make sure they have seated completely.
Here's some pictures of what I'm talking about (albeit this is for the rear, so it'll be similar but not exactly the same)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/695690/8
04-24-2007, 12:10 PM
#1770
I am wanting to clear the headlights on my car (remove the orange turn signal lens) and I am wondering exactly how much risk I will taking if I tackle this job. Headlights can be quite expensive and I'm just wondering how smart this is. I know lotsa people have done this so it must not be too risky?? Help me out here. BTW I have a 2k2.
04-24-2007, 12:21 PM
#1771
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 17
[QUOTE=02Maximan]I am wanting to clear the headlights on my car (remove the orange turn signal lens) and I am wondering exactly how much risk I will taking if I tackle this job. Headlights can be quite expensive and I'm just wondering how smart this is. I know lotsa people have done this so it must not be too risky?? Help me out here. BTW I have a 2k2.[/QUOTE
Well, first off I'd search before the
maxgods see this.....but after weighing my options this isn't something I wanted to try and tackle myself seeing the replacement cost is very expensive. It does look sick though
Well, first off I'd search before the
maxgods see this.....but after weighing my options this isn't something I wanted to try and tackle myself seeing the replacement cost is very expensive. It does look sick though
04-24-2007, 12:40 PM
#1772
Originally Posted by ricodemus
Alright, I was doing some maintenance on my maxima and I saw that the tie rod ends were shredded. Are these hard to replace - do you need a press, etc? I was wondering if it's just that bushing and it needs to be pressed in, then it probably won't be worth it to try and do myself or outside of a shop. I get good deals on oem parts so I usually buy them myself assuming I can handle the install.
Anyone want to buy a 20th AE max? :P
Anyone want to buy a 20th AE max? :P
No, all you need is a balljoint seperator. About $10 at any autoparts store. Undo the bolt that secures it to the spindle, then use the BJS to "seperate it" from the spindle. Then screw it off the steering tie rod. then screw the new one on to about the same place (make sure you mark it on the thread), re-attach to the spindle, and get an alignment immediately (since it will be way off).
get a Haynes manual and it shows exactly how to do it.
04-24-2007, 01:20 PM
#1773
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 17
Originally Posted by irish44j
No, all you need is a balljoint seperator. About $10 at any autoparts store. Undo the bolt that secures it to the spindle, then use the BJS to "seperate it" from the spindle. Then screw it off the steering tie rod. then screw the new one on to about the same place (make sure you mark it on the thread), re-attach to the spindle, and get an alignment immediately (since it will be way off).
get a Haynes manual and it shows exactly how to do it.
get a Haynes manual and it shows exactly how to do it.
04-24-2007, 01:20 PM
#1774
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tampa
Posts: 333
My car was misfiring because the harness went bad and it fried the computer repair cost $3600 is that worth it what should i do i just got the car in august and i dont actually want to go into a car bill.D*** this sucks.
04-24-2007, 02:18 PM
#1775
Originally Posted by ricodemus
Thanks irish. I hope it's in the service manual too since I do have that somewhere. I may change out my struts too before I get the alignment, I think one of them is actually leaking. I was going to attempt to do this myself as well too, you think it's possible with a normal set of tools? I know I'll have to get a socket to get the axle nut off which is huge (33mm or something). Other than that I've only helped while suspension replacement was done.
To do springs/struts IIRC you will need 14, 17, and 19mm sockets, some needlenose pliers to take off the brake line bracket, a little (8mm?) wrench to take off the ABS line bracket, and spring compressors (about $20 at Sears - buy theirs, they are the best).
04-25-2007, 08:14 AM
#1776
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 17
Originally Posted by irish44j
you only have to take off the axle nut if you're changing the CV axles - struts/spring changes you don't take that off (I mean, you can, but you don't need to...there is still room to get the strut assembly out without doing it - just make sure you put a towel over the CV boot so you don't ut it with the bottom of the strut accidentally.
To do springs/struts IIRC you will need 14, 17, and 19mm sockets, some needlenose pliers to take off the brake line bracket, a little (8mm?) wrench to take off the ABS line bracket, and spring compressors (about $20 at Sears - buy theirs, they are the best).
To do springs/struts IIRC you will need 14, 17, and 19mm sockets, some needlenose pliers to take off the brake line bracket, a little (8mm?) wrench to take off the ABS line bracket, and spring compressors (about $20 at Sears - buy theirs, they are the best).
Originally Posted by Dynasty47x1
My car was misfiring because the harness went bad and it fried the computer repair cost $3600 is that worth it what should i do i just got the car in august and i dont actually want to go into a car bill.D*** this sucks.
04-25-2007, 06:44 PM
#1777
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 9
question about my maplight
I have an 03 and i have been trying to find an LED replacement for the maplight, (near my sunroof controls). The problem is, i can't even find out what kind of lights are in there in the first place... Everytime I do a search for "03 maxima maplight", the search results always bring me to dome light links, styles and pictures. It's a tiny ball-like bulb... Please help!!!
04-25-2007, 08:00 PM
#1778
Originally Posted by hottmaxx2003
I have an 03 and i have been trying to find an LED replacement for the maplight, (near my sunroof controls). The problem is, i can't even find out what kind of lights are in there in the first place... Everytime I do a search for "03 maxima maplight", the search results always bring me to dome light links, styles and pictures. It's a tiny ball-like bulb... Please help!!!
i use polarg m26
http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/maxbulbchart.html
http://www.autolumination.com/
04-26-2007, 07:26 AM
#1779
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23
BOSE HU Removal Help
I have read alot of the posts about the the stock Bose HU removal and using stock speakers or replacing the speakers. What I want to do is replace my BOSE with a new deck and add a 12" sub in the back and not use the bose sub. I already have the sub, amp, and capacitor from my old car so I am good there. But, my question is what are the adapters i need if i want to use the stock bose door speakers? Or should i just scrap them all together and get new door speakers. I have read a bunch of posts but it still seems a little unclear what actually works. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks
J
J
04-26-2007, 07:34 AM
#1780
Originally Posted by choopster
My clutch is being a lil hard to press and is making squeeky noise. I checked on my cluth fluid and it is decreasing at slow rate. any suggestions?
Which one is the first bank for the 0420 SES code. I am thinking its the most rear under the car since its a 2001 with 4 O2 sensors.
i have 2001 5-speed
regards
Which one is the first bank for the 0420 SES code. I am thinking its the most rear under the car since its a 2001 with 4 O2 sensors.
i have 2001 5-speed
regards
She still has a squeak, but it just sounds like something needs some lubrication, not like the whoosing air-in-the-line sound I was hearing before the flush. Good luck!
04-26-2007, 04:28 PM
#1782
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
No Cold Air
I have a 5.5 gen with the digital Climate Control Option. I turned the temperature **** all the way to the cold side and it only went to 60F and turned up the fan and no cold air came out
. I checked under the hood and the Compressor clutch wasn't engaged like the A/C wasnt even on. i'm pretty sure its not a bad cluch because its a newer car, but is there a button that i'm not pushing on the dash to engage the cold air???
. I checked under the hood and the Compressor clutch wasn't engaged like the A/C wasnt even on. i'm pretty sure its not a bad cluch because its a newer car, but is there a button that i'm not pushing on the dash to engage the cold air???
04-26-2007, 04:41 PM
#1783
Originally Posted by SE My 6sp
I have a 5.5 gen with the digital Climate Control Option. I turned the temperature **** all the way to the cold side and it only went to 60F and turned up the fan and no cold air came out . I checked under the hood and the Compressor clutch wasn't engaged like the A/C wasnt even on. i'm pretty sure its not a bad cluch because its a newer car, but is there a button that i'm not pushing on the dash to engage the cold air???
. I checked under the hood and the Compressor clutch wasn't engaged like the A/C wasnt even on. i'm pretty sure its not a bad cluch because its a newer car, but is there a button that i'm not pushing on the dash to engage the cold air???the econ is used for heating and the AC compressor doesnt turn on.
after using the econ button all winter, i turned on my air the other day and the air wasnt cool. realized i had hit econ out of habit.
04-27-2007, 09:10 PM
#1785
Originally Posted by SE My 6sp
ohhhhhh ok thanks it worked i am such an idiot
About those anti theft brackets for the 2k2-2k3 headlights, where can i get them from, and how much, HID's are like gold around where i live.
About those anti theft brackets for the 2k2-2k3 headlights, where can i get them from, and how much, HID's are like gold around where i live.Don't know the cost.
04-27-2007, 09:15 PM
#1786
Originally Posted by flxsunxchick
I just had a problem with mine - it got really stiff and then all of a sudden it went really soft and my friction point dropped to the floor, literally. I took it to my mechanic and they said that one of my metal pressurized lines had been leaking, (which explained the lack of fluid in the resevoir), and replaced it. After that replacement, I still noticed problems with my clutch - the friction point would vary as the car warmed up. It also felt quite sluggish. I took it back and they did a clutch system flush for no charge. She's running great now.
She still has a squeak, but it just sounds like something needs some lubrication, not like the whoosing air-in-the-line sound I was hearing before the flush. Good luck!
She still has a squeak, but it just sounds like something needs some lubrication, not like the whoosing air-in-the-line sound I was hearing before the flush. Good luck!
On an unrelated note, on your cardomain site you mention upgrading to "HIDs or projectors."
Let me save you alot of hassle and disappointment: If you are looking to upgrade, go directly to the 02-03 OEM HID setups (which are a perfect fit and just require some rewiring). The projectors available on ebay and other "tuner shops" are total crap in terms of light output. And HIDs in your stock housings will just cause excessive glare.
04-28-2007, 09:31 PM
#1788
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23
bump... if anyone can shed some light on this for me
I have read alot of the posts about the the stock Bose HU removal and using stock speakers or replacing the speakers. What I want to do is replace my BOSE with a new deck and add a 12" sub in the back and not use the bose sub. I already have the sub, amp, and capacitor from my old car so I am good there. But, my question is what are the adapters i need if i want to use the stock bose door speakers? Or should i just scrap them all together and get new door speakers. I have read a bunch of posts but it still seems a little unclear what actually works. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks
J
I have read alot of the posts about the the stock Bose HU removal and using stock speakers or replacing the speakers. What I want to do is replace my BOSE with a new deck and add a 12" sub in the back and not use the bose sub. I already have the sub, amp, and capacitor from my old car so I am good there. But, my question is what are the adapters i need if i want to use the stock bose door speakers? Or should i just scrap them all together and get new door speakers. I have read a bunch of posts but it still seems a little unclear what actually works. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks
J
04-28-2007, 09:35 PM
#1789
Originally Posted by longjas
bump... if anyone can shed some light on this for me
I have read alot of the posts about the the stock Bose HU removal and using stock speakers or replacing the speakers. What I want to do is replace my BOSE with a new deck and add a 12" sub in the back and not use the bose sub. I already have the sub, amp, and capacitor from my old car so I am good there. But, my question is what are the adapters i need if i want to use the stock bose door speakers? Or should i just scrap them all together and get new door speakers. I have read a bunch of posts but it still seems a little unclear what actually works. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks
J
I have read alot of the posts about the the stock Bose HU removal and using stock speakers or replacing the speakers. What I want to do is replace my BOSE with a new deck and add a 12" sub in the back and not use the bose sub. I already have the sub, amp, and capacitor from my old car so I am good there. But, my question is what are the adapters i need if i want to use the stock bose door speakers? Or should i just scrap them all together and get new door speakers. I have read a bunch of posts but it still seems a little unclear what actually works. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks
J
04-29-2007, 12:55 AM
#1790
I'm too poor to buy rims, but I need good tires as wide as I can. I run toyo proxes (very strong tire) right now, 225-40-17 and burned my front tires off in less than 5K miles (so I rotated them to the back :P). On my old 2000 maxi I ran 255-45-16 yokohamas (they had excellent traction) and toyos on the stock rims and never even noticed a problem with the tire being 7.5", since the crappy stock rims are 7" wide. I want to run 265s as my next set and am wondering what you guys think about that.
04-29-2007, 07:06 AM
#1791
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I'm too poor to buy rims, but I need good tires as wide as I can. I run toyo proxes (very strong tire) right now, 225-40-17 and burned my front tires off in less than 5K miles (so I rotated them to the back :P). On my old 2000 maxi I ran 255-45-16 yokohamas (they had excellent traction) and toyos on the stock rims and never even noticed a problem with the tire being 7.5", since the crappy stock rims are 7" wide. I want to run 265s as my next set and am wondering what you guys think about that.
The CORRECT size you should be using is 225/50/17, but 235/45/17 would work as well.
If you're "burning off" Proxes 4 in <5k miles, you either have a terrible alignment or you do too many ricer burnouts. I drive hard and corner hard, and my Proxes 4 typically last 15-20k miles.
04-29-2007, 08:35 AM
#1793
Originally Posted by MaxiPad'01
ive seen a few 00-01 guys with 02-03 front ends, is that a direct fit?
04-29-2007, 09:43 AM
#1794
I don't know wtf a ricer burn out is, but I just mash it and it spins like a mother****er. 255s look completely normal and those were drove till they were completely bald with nails, shrapnel, and wire sticking in them (several pieces were in them when the tire was changed) and the damn things still held up.
04-29-2007, 10:00 AM
#1795
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I don't know wtf a ricer burn out is, but I just mash it and it spins like a mother****er.
dont blame the tires for the spinning your tires and wearing them out.
i also drive hard (without doing burnouts) and my toyos have about 10K miles on them so far
04-29-2007, 10:40 AM
#1796
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I don't know wtf a ricer burn out is, but I just mash it and it spins like a mother****er. 255s look completely normal and those were drove till they were completely bald with nails, shrapnel, and wire sticking in them (several pieces were in them when the tire was changed) and the damn things still held up.
2.
it doesn't matter what they "look" like. The bottom line is that Toyo lists 8.5" as the MINIMUM width for the 255/17 Proxes 4 (9.0" as the preferred size). There is a reason for this - it's called safety. If you want to be a moron and put tires that are not even CLOSE to the correct size on your car - well, it's a free country. But you're going to be the one who is hating life when you take a corner on the highway and the tire unseats itself from the wheel and you wrap your maxima around a tree at 70mph.According to Toyo, the correct size tire for a 17x7" rim is 225/50ZR17 98W (6.0-7.0-8.0) rim widths in parenthesis.
read: http://www.toyo.com/docs/tires/produ...ategory=luxury
3. Driving around with bald tires with "nails, shrapnel, and wire" sticking out of them is dumb as hell. Are you really as stupid as you're making yourself sound?
04-29-2007, 12:30 PM
#1799
3. Driving around with bald tires with "nails, shrapnel, and wire" sticking out of them is dumb as hell. Are you really as stupid as you're making yourself sound?[/QUOTE]
Hey, I didn't know the damn things were punctured until the tire was changed. I was just saying the tires I had on before handled it just fine and I thought they only required 7.5 width. I know .5" is not going to be a hazard with a tough tire. The specs changed or somethin, b/c the ones I bought said 7.5.
Hey, I didn't know the damn things were punctured until the tire was changed. I was just saying the tires I had on before handled it just fine and I thought they only required 7.5 width. I know .5" is not going to be a hazard with a tough tire. The specs changed or somethin, b/c the ones I bought said 7.5.