slimI30

Update:

My CEL was burned out. I had AutoZone scan it and it blew all kinds of codes.

P0740
P0139
P0306
P1320
P0138
P0160

So I know I have to replace my cyl 6 coil pack and I'm thinking this is causing at least 1 of the O2 sensor faults? I still need to research how to fix the TCC solenoid valve.

Slim

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Its possible with the bad ignition coil that you are getting the O2 sensor codes since the cylinder is not firing and pushing unburned fuel out the exhaust pipe. Replace the ignition coil and see what happens. If you don't get the ECU reset, you'll have to drive the car something like 80 miles for the ECU to erase the code from its memory.

The P070 is an automatic transmission problem. TCC is the Torque Converter Clutch. Low oil in the transmission (Dexron III type) is one possibility. Read this post:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...elp-po740.html

Don Mills

Sup everyone , I have a 01 max that I just lowered with Tein Springs 2.2 in the front 1.6 in rear with kyb struts & strut mounts , since the drop my car seems to have loss power, with a vibration feel like the tranny is being strained along with the engine , could this be a camber issue ?? I did not do a alignement yet

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

How many miles on the car?

Sounds like your axles are shot - hence the vibration. The 'loss of power' could be the CV joint binding up.

Don Mills

158000 miles axles a fairly new , I changed them a year ago . I had a buddy test drive the car who has a history with cars he's had lowered in the past and he said he never seen a loss of power.

christopher.spitler

So I did my front brakes a few weeks ago, and they're great. Got my rear pads in and one of them has the little clip that sticks out from the side of the pad, but the other three do not. On my front pad, they all had the clips. I can't find a reference to them in the FSM and one of my friends (a VW/Audi tech) said that you can reuse the shims as long as you clean them well and regrease. Ideas?

VQP0WER

It's normal. The right rear is the only one with that tab. BR-27 of the FSM depicts only the right side has it.

christopher.spitler

OK, thanks bro. I didn't look close enough in the drawing. Thanks for the page number, too. Just wanted to get a second opinion since brakes are somewhat of a safety system

Don Mills

Thanx djfrestyl ill inspect the axles asap

L36

iTrader: (4)

Just got a SEL.
P0158 and 159...
So, basically the 158 happened months ago, but i simply cleared it and now, about 3 months it comes back. However, months ago it was only one SES, the P0158. Now today i got the 159 to go with that 158.

Basically, my bank 2 sensor 2 is dying?
I'm going to clear it again, see if it comes back in the near future...

DOODOOCHIP

today i got my flip key from ebay, have anyone had problems with it? im just curious cuz i got it for cheap.

Bjdjncaw22@gmail.com

Hello, I have a question. I was wondering what is the difference between a ( I have a 2000 SE Maxima ) 2000 Maxima instrument cluster with TCS and one without? Also When is says made thru 10/99 or 11/99 on?? Because my cluster broke and I need to get a new one as i'm looking i don't know what one to get... I've seen ones on ebay that have a different back piece then mine. (mine has a lot of light bulbs you can take out and other ones it looks like it's just one sold piece) Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I think the clusters are the same with and without TCS. It's just that the cluster has a light bulb in it for the TCS warning light.

Unfortunately for us, all car makers will change something in the middle of a production run and then you have to know when the car was built. For the Maxima, open the driver's door and look at the pillar that the rear door mounts on. At the bottom is a white tag with the manufacture date.

The one you saw on e-bay is probably for a 2002/2003. They are a lot different and won't work in your car.

Bjdjncaw22@gmail.com

Thank you for the help! It says 02/00. I'm guessing that I need a cluster that was made from 11/99 on then right?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Almost.

Part # 24820-2Y900
04/1999 to 10/2000
MSRP $247.63
This is used in some of the first production 2001 models also.

Part # 24820-4Y905
10/2000 to 06/2001
MSRP $560.00
This part is the 2001 model.

I don't know what the differences are.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Part of the difference is probably gauge face color. I have an early '00 and my faces are black with white outline. I've seen 01's with white faces and black outline and some blue in there too.

IanMasterson

I have replaced gas cap and SES light goes out when I fill the gas tank and then comes back on at about 1/2 full - this has happened twice, does anyone have an idea what may cause this??

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

IMHO opinion, it can be anything. Code(s) given does not necessarily diagnose the problem and can be meaningless. FWIW, my brother was suffering from the SES going on & off. He was getting different codes (cat, rich bank, o2 sensor). Turned out the bolts on his knock sensor were loose and the housing had cracked. Fixed that & SES has reamained asleep!

Mine's a different story. It's definitely the front cat ($800 at stealership - no option since I have a Cali Spec).

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Have you searched the term Eastern or Bosal on here? Those are viable options. Or, you could gut them.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

Hadn't heard of that - thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind. However, luck has stricken. A client of mine who happens to own a smog shop owed me a favor ($$$). He ordered the cat for me & is installing it on Thursday

Seriously thought about gutting them, but for one, I don't know if I could live with the SES light on much longer, and second, it would just be putting off the inevitable....

HeyBoff

My brakes started grinding on my '01 Maxima and pressing down on the brake pedal didn't have any give and would only brake when the pedal was totally pushed down. The brake light turned on.

I installed new front brake pads and noticed some brake fluid on the left front tire. After installing the brake pads, the brake light is still on and the brake pedal is acting even weird - if I suddenly brake, it requires the pedal to be pushed to the ground with little pushback/force. If I pump my brake pedal, the pedal will start to have some pushback and force and act normal, but this doesn't last and soon it requires that I push the pedal all the way down.

Can anyone tell me why this is happening? I checked the brake fluid and its slightly above the "minimum" line.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Sounds like you have a fluid leak or an issue with your brake master cylinder.

Bjdjncaw22@gmail.com

Ahh... then i'll just have to look for ones that don't have a solid back face. My buddy showed me his (he has a 2000 Maxima SE also) and his has a solid back face. Mine has like 15-20 different light bulbs you can take out. His on the other hand only has 3 bulbs and is really thin... I also found out his cluster is made thru 11/99. This is soooo confusing. So, now I'm thinking i need a 10/99 date?

CdnBrit

Sorry to hijack the thread... Hey guys, I'm a new member who has searched, found and used a great information on this forum. Thanks to you all. But...

I recently bought a used 2000 GLE Auto with 175k miles from a friend of mine (I think it's Cali spec as it has 4 connectors in front of engine). He told me it needed a new rad (which he supplied) and that the SES light was because of a bad O2 sensor (?). Well the car ran fine the first day I had it at which time I did the following;

Oil Change
Air filter Change
New radiator install
Fuel system cleaner at gas fill up

The next day it started exhibiting what appears to the infamous misfire, shaking, juddering symptom. It started off as intermittent but seems to have gotten worse. The SES is always on and occasionally misfires under hard-ish acceleration (which I think means it is misfiring).

I went to Advance Auto a couple of days later and pulled the codes; P1320 and P0300. After reading this site, decided to replace all 6 plugs with the NGK Iridium Ix. I left the coil packs alone as they are the ones with the grey dot on them and according to what I've found on this site are newer or better than the original ones.

Tonight I did the Ohm reading on the coils and they are if anything consistent.
The back three read as follows;
1.72 1.63 1.60
- - -
1.72 1.62 1.61
- - -
- - -
- - -
The fronts are;
1.72 1.80 1.77
- - -
1.70 1.79 1.77
- - -
- - -
- - -

Assuming the Ohm readings are ok. How do I know/tell which O2 sensor is bad? I can probably change that myself but I am not a mechanic and anything involving taking the engine apart will mean I have to take it to a mechanic or worse the stealership. What else can I do/clean etc.

Any and all help is much appreciated. $$$ is extremely tight right now but I hate driving the car with the misfire as sometimes it gets pretty bad and am scared of doing "real and hard" damage to the engine. Please help! TIA.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You can probably use either.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Hello.
Having a slight issue with starting the vehicle. Sometimes when i start the car, happens more often when the car is warm, the starter will crank, stop for a split second and crank again, starting the vehicle...

Happens when the car is cold, but not so often. Happens more often if the car is restarted while its still warm.

Checked the battery, its good.
Is the starter on its way out, or should i check all my ground connections and or clean em?
Thanks.

VQP0WER

Sounds like the starter solenoid is sticking. The starter solenoid is integral to the starter, so you would have to replace the starter. But before you go doing that, inspect the wiring from the battery to the starter itself. Look for obvious signs of damage.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys......

Sorry if this has been asked before, the search isnt quite working.

is there any way to adjust the hood latch? My hood is slightly loose and it rattles every time I hit the smallest bump.

It needs to be held down a little tighter by the latch.

Any info or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Position or tension?

If tension - the primary latch is spring loaded - see if it's loose/worn out. This is the first I've ever heard of this.

If it's position - see if there's any wiggle room on the mounting bolts.

Lastly - are you sure it's the latch and not the posts at the corners of the hood?

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

I would say its position.......so I'll check the mounting bolts.

Are you talking about the rubber bumpers under the corner of the hood? I think those are raised as much as possible, so i think I am out of luck there.

Thanks DJ.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Not sure if there's any adjustment in the position. Maybe you'll have to elongate a mounting hole with a drille.

Yep, those. They wear over time. As long as you checked they're tall, that's good enough

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Just came across this:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-cluster.html

Texas Gal

Hey There! I had my tie rod replaced 2 weeks ago. After the "fix" I started having jerking issues when driving over 40mph. I took the car back to the mechanic and he is now saying it is the control arm bushings and will cost $872! HOW could he replace the tie rod and not realize the control arms were bad?!?! Any advice would be appreciated.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You don't really have to touch the control arm to replace the tie rod.

But $872 for two control arms + labor is a ripoff. I'd find another mechanic, fast.

Not to mention, I don't see how jerking issues would be caused by a control arm bushing.

slimI30

Thanks Dennis,

I replaced he ignition coil and disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes. The car runs fine now but starts hard. I need to check the codes again this week and fluid level. Thanks again for the help.

Slim

CdnBrit

Update: Yesterday I disconnected the battery for 3 hrs or so, reconnected it and no SES light. It ran fine yesterday but this morning the rough idling, gas smell and SES light have returned.

Can someone please shed some light on what to try next? !

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

OK, just so you're clear - the brake light does not mean "change brake pads" - it means there is a hydraulic problem in the braking system. The "change brake pads" warning is the chirp-chirp-chirp of the squeal bars on the pads that you probably heard 3000 miles ago. That probably stopped, and whoever was driving it at the time probably thought "it fixed itself."

What probably happened? You ran your brakes down so low that the seal on one of your calipers broke, and it's now leaking fluid. Once it breaks, even if you push the pistons back in, there is dirt and grit in there from years of stopping and stuff, and it's unlikely it'll seal again. Which means it's a safety issue.

How to fix this?

1. replace both front calipers. Really. Both of of them.
2. bleed system
3. if you've been grinding metal in your brakes, you're probably looking at new rotors too. Thankfully, those are cheap, the prostops for my max were $40 each or something like that.

When I worked as a mechanic, I'd see that sort of thing more often than I would like, and of course would be accused of trying to rip them off by the customer. I had some lady bring in her Mustang, and she ground the brakes down so far that the pad backing plate had fallen out and she was using the caliper piston metal to stop. So it's a bit of a sore point for me, sorry if the above came out with a bad tone.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

P0300 and P1320 are a misfire and ignition coil error respectively - grey dot or not, one or more of them have an issue.

Download the FSM for your Maxima. Test coils per procedure therein. Replace any that fail.

ETA: Clearing the SES only makes the ECU forget it happened. When it happens again, it'll turn the SES light on again. What you did by resetting it was confirm that the problem is intermittent, but that's the nature of ignition coils - one of the little wires will break, and will work sometimes, and sometimes not.

Bjdjncaw22@gmail.com

Thanks!!!

L36

iTrader: (4)

I'm about to perform a VIAS fix on my 01.
How long should JB weld be left alone to dry before resembling the VIAS?