Ok so i did my homework (kinda) and well ok 2002 3.5 L SE max throwin a CEL. When I drive it it the temp gauge goes to about 2.5- 3 lines and will not rise. Now I went to autozone and they said that its p0128 and he printed out a list of possible problems: 1. Low Coolant Level 2. Faulty Thermostat. Now I checked the coolant and its brand new and all good. So its the thermostat. Is T-Stat the left or right of the engine? I suppose its on the left side where the lower radiator hose connects to it. But correct me if Im wrong. Thanks in advance.

 

The thermostat is where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine. While you are calling it the left side of the engine, it is really the front of the engine. The left, right, front and rear are still named as if the engine was not transverse mounted. Left and right are designated from the driver's point of view when sitting behind the steering wheel.

Also, the P0128 code could be caused by the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). These sensors have a higher failure rate than the thermostat.

 

Ok thanks its where I thought it was. wheres the ECTS?

 

To find the ECTS, follow the upper radiator hose back to where it attaches to the engine. Go another 2 inches or so and there are 2 sensors screwed into the metal pipe. The first one which has one wire attached to it runs the temperature gauge in the dash. The 2nd sensor is the ECTS. It has 2 wires on it.

There is a chart for checking the resistance of the ECTS in the FSM.
At 68 degrees the resistance should be 2.1 to 2.9 Kohms.
At 122 degrees the resistance should be .68 to 1.0 Kohms.
At 194 degrees the resistance should be .236 to .260 Kohms.

 

Yeah, it is same like infinity, but with no middle compass. Anyways, any ideas on this fault. There is nothing coming onto computer checking and the Check AT or OD OFF (in American version) comes up occasionally when i start my car (blinks for 08 secs and then stops, only occasionally). This tells me that there is nothing wrong with the clutch plates because it is happening in the cold start. Please advise how to diagnose this fault. The mechanics, on their pursuit to investigate, will definitly rip me off. :S.

 

Hey guys new owner here i have a 2000 maxima se and im pulling up this p1130 code about swirl valve solenoid.. I was wonder what my options are to fix this?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Hey, this is my first post, but I've been searching the org for years to get help. I've got an '02 AT with 120K and have something I can't figure out. A little while ago, got flashing SES and code P0303, replaced coil and code cleared. A weeks later, get the flashing SES again and loss of power, swing by Advanced Auto and get P0303 again. After getting home, replaced all coils and plugs.

I'm still getting the rough idle and flashing SES, but no other codes. I can get the RPM's well past the 2500 the MAF usally limits to, it just hessitates while accelerating. I did unplug the MAF and it was giving the same rough idle, but wouldn't rev past 2500. I've pulled the IM back off and re-installed to check and make sure I didn't miss anything.

I've spent two weekends reading, but can't find anyone with the same issues. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hey guys! Hope everyone had a merry christmas and a happy new years. I have a question
as i posted before i did some front end work, after that i took the car to pepboys for a front end aligment. Whilr fixing a flat ( wife did it lol) i was curious about a very faint noise coming from driver side front end. Now when i performed the work i made sure all the nuts were tight and good. There wasnt even the most faint noise. When i got under yesterday i found out that the nuts that hold tight the outter tie rod with inner was loose, im talking about finger grip loose. Which made me doubt about outter tie rod nut. precisely it was loose also. I moved it with a crecent wrench and not applying much efford. nut on the passanger side was loose also (the one holding the outter to inner) now the question is , should i bring it back to pepboys(not my choice anymore but have warranty) even thou the car feels like its still perfectly aligned? no pulling or tire eating.

 

Have you tried a new MAF? What about plugs?

 

So - you got an alignment at Pep Boys, then afterwards realize your tie rod nuts are loose?

Clearly they didn't tighten the nuts back down after the alignment.

If you already tightened it then there's no reason for them to do any work, but I would show up and give them a piece of my mind.

 

Yes they were loose after the aligment...yes i tighten back up. And i seriously thought about going there and giving them a piece of my mind (that was last night, i had to go make an errant. If not i woulda gone there) but today i cooled down. I was mad? What kind of service is that huh! Never going back to pepboys.

 

I have changed all plugs and coils, but not the MAF. From what I have read, it doesn't seem like the issues that are normally associated with a bad MAF (won't rev above 2500 rpm. Just don't want to drop $200 if thats not going to help anything.

 

Not nesserarly. Bad maf sensor can give difference symptoms. For instance my first bad maf sensor wouldnt let me accelerate hard. It would go all the way to 6 rpms if i pressed easy on the pedal. No other bad symptoms. Second time card had trouble starting, then once it did gave me gray smoke with the smell of gas. This time wouldnt let me rev pass 3000 rpms.

 

MAF shouldn't exceed 100$.

 

first m a f I got was about 87. that 1 was from a part store and it was a 2k2? I cant remember if thats the name for it but it has the wires on the side. It was better in performance but only lasted about 3 months. Second maf i got was from the dealer and it rang 250 but it came with the housing also. Thats the one i currently have. Been like 2 years now

 

I *think* to keep the price low you can get the sensor only without the housing.

Someone please confirm.

 

I have a 2003 Maxima se auto I think the car is misfiring but not sure it shakes the car while speeding up from 1000 and 3000 rpms and i am getting a knocking sound from the engine while in speeding up from a low rpm till about 3000 rmps then it stops. Can anyone help me figure out what the problem is and how to fix it or what is causing this?????????

 

^^ do you have any codes?

Unplug the MAF - does it get worse or does it stay the same?

 

How many posts do I need before I can start a new post ?

 

15.

It's advisable to search before starting a thread. Your answer has most likely been answered already.

 

Thanks for the quick response !

 

I'm a newbie here, I have a 02 Maxima se and I have another problem, After I start it and it warms up I doesn't have much heat until you start to drive. Could it be a faulty thermostat ?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/22680-m...ml?cPath=1956&

 

Djfrestyl you right. It is a lot cheaper just the maf sensor without the housing. However when i got mine from the nissan they wouldnt sell it without the housibg.

 

I bought the part number i listed above about 3 weeks ago from my local dealer and it even had the therm attached to it and the housing so all i did was take the MAF and 2 screws and drop it in.

 

Wow i wish i would have known that 2 years ago. Thars exaclty what i got expect i paid like 3 timescas much...

 

sup guys i searched but haven't find any info about doing a 6 speed swap into a 00-01 max? is it possible, if it is has it been done..?? thanks

 

It's been done. The member that I know of that has done it hardly ever posts.


Also, depends on if you have a 5MT or 4AT right now. Looks as if you have an MT, and in that case, I'd recommend against it, but that's just me. The slight acceleration increase would probably be negated by the added drive train loss, and I'm not much for MPG's since those would be the only advantages.

Anyhow, it would follow the same procedure for doing a 6MT swap into a 4th gen. Check the AM forum for details on that.

 

I just bought a 2000 SE the body has 218k on it but the guy who sold it to me told me that the engine and the Trans have 100k on it. It runs well. But I just found out my rear motor mounts are bad. Has anyone had to replace these? I'm hearing it's not cheap. I love the car but I got a bad feeling that this is about to nickel and dime me to death. Thoughts?

 

Get your motor mounts from ebay,amazon or rock auto do yourself a favor and get the ones for a MT trans it will work out alot cheaper and you dont need the electric mount.btw if you have patients there not hard to change 6 bolts 2 nuts drop the crossmember replace mount on crossmember bolt back up.3-4 hours.

Price example:
http://www.amazon.com/DEA-NISSAN-MAX...5706976&sr=8-4

 

If he is referring to the rear mount, as in the one closest to the fire wall, it is actually a fairly easy process.


You can go with a stock replacement or have it a little stiffer and get ES inserts.

The rear mount is # 11320. Remove the cross-member, then the motor mount bolt, and replace. Reinstall. A couple of jacks and typical set of metric sockets and a breaker bar.



If it is indeed that mount, keep in mind that it will fit all Maximas from MY 95-03. I have a set of poly filled 4th gen units in mine.

As always, before you begin your research, are you experiencing any symptoms i.e., noises, vibration? And what was his diagnostic procedure?

 

Man that diagram scared me the first time i went to do my mounts.i was like the only thing that picture does'nt show is where the flux capacitor hooks in.

 

It's the explosive element, literally. Everything looks way different when exploded, and every washer is exposed.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...mount-how.html

 

thanks for the quick reply, i did manage to find some info on this, but yes mine is a 5mt and reason why i want to change to 6mt is more toward MPG's..

 

For the amount of money/time you'd spend on the swap, it would be a while before you made that up in MPG's.

 

Getting light weight 17's would do the job more effeciently. I gained 12-15% in MPG's by swapping to lightwiehgt wheels.

Stock set-up is about 50#'s/corner, new set-up is 38#'s/corner. An that is even with 17x8" wide wheels and 245-45-17's vs the stock (what I have now) 235-45 and 17x7.

 

Is it just when you drive it, or does it also get warmer when you rev it up?

Have you checked the coolant level?

No, the thermostat is unlikely.

 

I am trying to put some courtesy led lights for my outside door handles and I've seen on the forums of this project done the a 6th gen but not a 5. Apparently I can either tap into the dome light or just tap into the SECU box? I'm thinking it would be easier to just run the wires to the SECU so that i dont have to remove the headliner. But if someone could give me some help as to what type of resistors i should have on the wires and whether i need a relay or not it would be much appreciated. And I have 24 gauge 2 conductor speaker wire that i was gonna use. Would it be able to take that current that is going to be run thru it or not? Thank you

 

Resistors depend on how many LED's you plan on using, if they're all on one circuit or 4 circuits, etc. Need more info - and it seems you need to learn a bit more about LED's.

22-24 awg should be fine for this. LED's don't pull much current at all.

 

Hi Guys,

Today I again took my car to garage for the same tranmission problem. They told me that my CKP is bad and needs replacement. He also informed me that this sensor also sends signals to TCU. Please tell if bad CKP has anything to do with tranmission slip? secondaly, my car never had starting problems, but i did see myself computer throwing CKP code...