HawkeyeEngineer

I have an 01' Maxima.

I KNOW this issue has been beaten over the head but my car is throwing some O2 sensor/cat sensor codes. They go on for a long time and sometimes turn off. It's been on and off a couple times in the past month.

But, I am getting both P0138 AND P0430. I need to know where I should start. I'm hoping so bad that because both of these are here it's just an O2 sensor, but I would like to get an opinion.

If I would have to replace the pre-cat isn't there a y-pipe that just deletes that part? I do not have emissions testing so it wouldn't really matter anyway.

Thanks!

arkangelgabriel

Its been a long time since i did my rear brakes but on the ebrake i remember i unbolted it from the caliper. Then again i dont remember well. On the caliper piston however i didnt have a special tool. What i did i took a big c clamp and pressed the piston tight down whil e rotating it with a channel lock player. It went down easy. Hope it helps

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Remove the spoiler from the trunk. You'll see the screws holding the light to the spoiler.

Swiftcat

When I get gas I can only hold the trigger on the gas gun for about a gallon and a half before it cuts off and I must wait a few seconds before anymore will go in. It's as if it were full every gallon and a half. The tank can be on empty or half it doesn't matter. It even runs out of the filler tube and down the car if I force it. Can anyone help? What is going on?

Don't know about the cable but I had the same problem with the rear caliper. The little square tool that you use with a ratchet wouldn't do the job. I rented the tool from Advance auto which worked very well to free the frozen caliper.

arkangelgabriel

There was someone here about 3 pages ago with a similar problrm. Check tubes going to the tank for kinks. Also check to see if there was ever any work done on the gas tank in case they mixed the hoses when putting them back. And last but not least someone might have installed a skinny tube so noone can syphone gas out making it a pain to pump

rickfire

i got error code P0505= IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE I just replaced my IDLE CONTROL VALVE on my 01 maxima but still the RPM go up and down form 2000-3000 rpm can somebody pleas tell what i can do to fix this do i need to reset the ECU or what

dundir

Ended up using a threaded extractor to forcefully remove the caliper from the rotor, since I was replacing the rotors anyway I ended up just replacing the calipers as well and bleeding the system afterwards. Both the pistons were stuck solid, one didn't have a boot, the other the boot was torn and stuck. So its all taken care of now. Thanks.

arkangelgabriel

Srry to hear. Mine didnt have a boot either but still work.

tiphawk

The crossmember bar is broken off from the radiator support beam on my 2000 Maxima. The crossmember bar hangs about an inch lower than the support beam. I did some searching and found this is a common problem. The cost of that support beam would be $160 online. I'm a college student and cannot afford that right now. Have any of you members ever welded on a piece of steel to hold the 2 bars together? If so I would appreciate some tips?

shy12

I have a 2003 Maxima. I bought it and before I got it home the motor went in it. So I bought a used motor and got it installed. Now it will not crank. I thought maybe the key unprogrammed itself. So I took the car for them to reprogram it well the lady said a code come up saying ECU disabled. So would that mean that it is disconnected or need to be reset? Thanks.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Would not crank, or would not start? NATS will disable the injectors, but will not keep it from cranking.

What exactly was the code? Was it NATS 'lock mode' P1610?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Lower radiator support? Plenty of people have welded in steel - and there are plenty of threads about it. Do a quick search and you'll find them.

shy12

I will not turn over nor crank. The code she gave me was ECU disabled is all she told me. I don't know what NATS is? Sorry new at all this.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Well if it won't crank, it surely won't 'turn over' (commonly meaning starting, though some use it synonymously with cranking).

The ECU has no input to the starting system. When you turn the key, what happens? Absolutely nothing, as in none of the accessories go out, no noises, etc? Or do you just hear a single click from the engine bay? Does everything else work normally?

You say you had the engine installed, did the shop that put it in not tell you what the problem was, or at least check their work?

Check battery cables and main B+ to the starter for clean and tight connections, and have the battery tested. Check the signal wire at the starter for voltage when the key is turned to start. Try to jump the starter manually see if it cranks fine.

shy12

Well I had a friend come look at it and said that he believes the ECU will have to be flashed. Thanks for the help tho.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Seriously? What about 'the ECU has nothing to do with the starting system' leads you to believe that reflashing the ECU will fix your problem?

Have fun with that.

shy12

Isn't the ECU the Engine Control Unit? The computer?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes.

shy12

Ok. That's what I was trying to say. Thinking the computer locked itself so that now it won't send signal to crank. And to answer your question, when you turn the key over you here a click under the hood. All lights inside the car come on. It's getting juice from battery just not starting. And they tried to jump starter and no it wouldn't start. I didn't take it to mechanic shop, my dad is a certified mechanic and he installed it but once it got to the electrical was out of his hands.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Okay, I honestly don't know any other way to say this, so try number 3: the ECU has NOTHING to do with the starting system.

Reflash it all you want, it won't fix a no crank.

Is this click coming from the starter (solenoid or motor), or the relay box?

Wait, 'jump starter' as in jump start, with jumper cables? No, not jump start. Jump the starter manually, see if it cranks.

Did you check for voltage on the signal wire while the key is in the crank position?

A no crank diagnosis is automotive electrical 101, there are very few things that will keep the starter from engaging on this car. If neither you nor your dad have any idea what you're doing, nor are willing to follow directions, it would be best if you have it towed to a shop for a proper diag.

tseng1023

iTrader: (9)

Does this sound right?

Cut fog wire from fog lamp relay and tuck away the part coming from the bottom.
Strip wire coming from relay
Cut tail light wire, strip the part coming from the bottom and connect to wire coming from fog relay then solder?

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

01 maxima TCS SLIP & CHECK ENGINE lights on rough idle

Hey guys.. need ergent help please
I started my car today and the engine was shaking pritty hard, ses light started blinking in yellow3-5 times. TCS and SLIP lights came on..
Now all of the lights are on and dont go off, Can someone please help..
I allso noticed that tcs does not work, it seems like abs is not working eather, but the light is not on.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you checked the codes?

It's most likely just a failed coil.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

No i didnt check the codes, dont have scanner for it.. its subday after hours so auto zone is closed.

I went out to the car after making a post here, and played with it a little.
started it up, idling issues and tcs and slip lights were on.

While the car was running, i unhooked - negative cable on the battery.. the engine capt on running, after few min running i shut the car off and waited few minutes again.

I hooked the cable back to the battery moved coils side to side a little and started the car. The idling became fine, but TCS and slip were still on. I drove the car over few blocks, parked the car.. Shut off.. waited... started it back up and idling was fine, no tcs and slip lights.

I feel i didnt fix the problem.
Should i expected it to happen again?

ITS HAPPENNING AGAIN FEW HOURS LATER..
When the engine is on and on nutral, there is no idling issue..but all the lights are on.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Nope. You only cut one wire. You join it to the other. Maintain continuity on the other. Re-read the directions and pictures on shiftice.

DjNikolaos

Hey guys. I'd appreciate if someone helped me out. I have a 2000 maxima with 235,500 miles. I replaced my MAF less then a year ago but I'm starting to have problems again. I tried cleaning with MAF cleaner but it only ran good for about 80 miles before the SES light came back on. The SES got triggered when I was testing the car the next day at full throttle to see if the problem went away. I'm thinking I need another MAF sensor now, but it could be something else.

Symptoms are as followed: Serious rough idle, bogging at around 2,500 Rpm's with backfire if attempting to accelerate, plenty of engine stalling at idle and low speeds such as 35mph, the occasional smell of rotten eggs probably from the catalytic converter, very poor fuel economy, and the smell of rich rich carbon monoxide emissions with occasional white smoke. Oh and the strangest thing, since my maxima is automatic, the overdrive light was constantly flickering on one occasion where it stalled on me getting off a highway exit.

I'm just looking for a second opinion, if someone can recognize the problem for reference. If its strong indication of a bad MAF, I'll order the sensor and put it in my myself since they're not too expensive. But if its something else, at least I'll be able to know if my mechanic is gonna jerk me around and try to BS a couple extra hours of labor and parts.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Did you have the code(s) pulled? If the SES light is on it would help us immensely if you told us the codes. Take it to any AutoZone or the like and they should pull them for free.

tiphawk

After searching for hours it appears that welding an L-shaped bar would be the best fix. The only question is how can I get nuts on those 2 crossmember shoulder bolts with the L-bar blocking the path? Could I drill thru the top section of the radiator support beam and throw nuts on longer M12 bolts?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You probably could, but I'm not sure how strong the upper part of the rad support is.

What I'd do is drill holes in the L bracket and weld a nut to the inside of it that lines up with the crossmember holes. Then just bolt it in.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

ok guys, i just scanned the car for codes:
p1320
p0302
p0430

any input?

Thanks

tiphawk

With the bottom section of the support beam were the crossmember bar mounts rotted away then I could easily slide on the L bracket with welded nuts. I presume the support beam had those nuts welded the same way on the inside. I got off both M12 shoulder bolts yesterday and the threads are fine. Should I weld on spacers with those bolts to reuse those M12 shoulder bolts, or just use new M12 hex bolts?
Thanks for your help.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Being able to scope the coils for a positive diagnosis would be best, but I'd be betting that the cylinder 2 coil is failing. Do you have the updated coils, or all original?

As far as the converter code, it could just be a bad converter, or a bad O2 sensor. If it's the converter, I'd investigate why it failed before installing a replacement.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Ok so here was my repair cost me like $40 buy (2) 1/4"x3" flat steel stock from lowes/home depot buy (2) SS nuts to replace the cross member bolts. cut out rust weld in flatstock for a complete write up search the 4th gen section i did a complete process of what i did.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Coil #2 gone car dumping gas into precat causing cat code.replace coil first!

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

I have pulled out coil from the second cylinder, the engine kept idling bad, when i put it back in.. it started idling fine, but tcs and slip lights wre still on. i shut the car of.. restarted it, and the lights went off. Im assuming it will kepp on happenning untill i replace coils.. As far as the precat goes, i had that code for a month before other codes came up.

Thank you guys for you help.

I allso have another question..
Today while i was replacing my sway bar links.. i have noticed something very strange.. never seen anything like this on any car.

right were the upper part of the strut is.. there is a lot of rubber wraped around the strut.. i took a picture of it, but i cant upload it here to show..
Also there is squeeking noise coming out of that side, and some clunking noise when i turn the wheel.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

upload to photobucket and paste link in your post

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You mean the dust boot on the piston? Most every car has those from the factory, though after a couple of years they tend to fall apart.

Assuming your two noises are coming from the same place, I would be suspect of the strut mount bearing.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Here is pics
http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/...130_130138.jpg
http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/...130_130127.jpg

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Your dustboot is torn to shreds. Probably even got sucked into the piston seal. Time for new struts....and it just so happens you're local

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Struts are fine, so are the piston seals..