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5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Old 01-30-2012, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
Struts are fine, so are the piston seals..
They appear to be original, and with as many miles as you likely have on your car (given the age), struts may not be a bad idea.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
Coil #2 gone car dumping gas into precat causing cat code.replace coil first!
i think your right on point, i smell fuel, and noticed pinging from under the engine.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:41 PM
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Ah, now that you posted better pictures....

The dustboot is sucked in between the piston and the bumpstop. There's your creaking noise.

As for the clunk - check your mounts, and your links since you recently changed those.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Ah, now that you posted better pictures....

The dustboot is sucked in between the piston and the bumpstop. There's your creaking noise.

As for the clunk - check your mounts, and your links since you recently changed those.
Is it ok if i just pull it out of there for now? Clunking noise seem to be coming from the links, i can feel the clunk in the floor...
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:25 PM
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Just bought a 2000 Maxima SE, 5 speed. I've wanted one for a long time and got a good deal on it...but it does have a few issues. So, my question is- while the car is running and driving it will drive fine for a while then act like it is about to stall for a couple of seconds, then continue to run fine. When I push the clutch in and put it in neutral 7/10 times it stalls. I did a code check before I bought it and it said coolant temp sensor, that was the only code that appeared.
I have not done anything to the car yet- I'm going to start by replacing the sensor, changing spark plugs and doing a full tune up....I'm not sure after that what would cause the issue. The car does have a lot of miles, but I'm not sure how many since the ODO does not work. Any ideas??
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
Is it ok if i just pull it out of there for now? Clunking noise seem to be coming from the links, i can feel the clunk in the floor...
Clunking noise is most definally your fsbls. I got moog about 3 months ago and its awsome. However with so many miles on it id recomend checking your outter tie rods might be time to change them.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:39 PM
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Anyone ever experienced anything like what I said? Lol ^^
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:41 PM
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Rattle sound from Engine area.

I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....

Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:51 PM
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im going to attempt to change my knock sensor , nought a cheap knock off and kinda concerened i might have to do it again. should i relocate the sensor? does it work as well in other places as good as oem?
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
Is it ok if i just pull it out of there for now? Clunking noise seem to be coming from the links, i can feel the clunk in the floor...
Yea pull em out. Not like your boots are doing any good anyway. Leave the part that's still in-tact.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Yea pull em out. Not like your boots are doing any good anyway. Leave the part that's still in-tact.

thank you
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by John_TN
Rattle sound from Engine area.

I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....

Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
Two things to check - the LCA (Lower Control Arm) bushing where it mounts to the car body and the strut bearing that the top of the strut bolts in. Start by checking that the bolt for the strut is perfectly centered in the opening.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by BittleB
Just bought a 2000 Maxima SE, 5 speed. I've wanted one for a long time and got a good deal on it...but it does have a few issues. So, my question is- while the car is running and driving it will drive fine for a while then act like it is about to stall for a couple of seconds, then continue to run fine. When I push the clutch in and put it in neutral 7/10 times it stalls. I did a code check before I bought it and it said coolant temp sensor, that was the only code that appeared.
I have not done anything to the car yet- I'm going to start by replacing the sensor, changing spark plugs and doing a full tune up....I'm not sure after that what would cause the issue. The car does have a lot of miles, but I'm not sure how many since the ODO does not work. Any ideas??
Replace that fuel temperature sensor as the ECU uses that reading to decide how much gas to have the injectors squirt into the engine. As you are doing the tune up, clean the throttle body, too.

For the speedometer, two possibilities. There is a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) in the trans axle that sends an electrical signal to the speedometer. I could be bad, but you should get a P0500 code. The other thing is that the speedometer itself is bad. This is more likely than the VSS being bad. If the lcd display is not showing any mileage, the cluster is definitely bad.

If you don't have a factory service manual (FSM), downlad one from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

The file named fwd.pdf is the cover page of the manual - the formal starting point.

The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index. Look up speedometer and VSS.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:24 AM
  #14974  
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Originally Posted by John_TN
Rattle sound from Engine area.

I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....

Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
Ok so i had similar problems like you. I recently did front end work like ivr posted coupla times and it fixed thr issues. I was having kinda like a rattling noise. That was fsbl. However that did not go as far as being felt on the steering wheel. I did have vibration mainly felt one floor but while braking aroind 70-50 mph. That was bad tie rods. Changed both inner and outter. First thing if i was you i would get under the car and check everything to make sure its all tight. Reason is after a front end aligment at pep boys they left some nuts loose. Places like that and maybe midas are always busy and sometimes do things in a hurry. If all ok then you may also consider a bad motor or transmission moubt
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by arkangelgabriel
Clunking noise is most definally your fsbls. I got moog about 3 months ago and its awsome. However with so many miles on it id recomend checking your outter tie rods might be time to change them.
I just replaced from original to moogs 2 days ago,and didnt forget to pack them with grease. there is more clunking with moogs then there was with originals..
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
I just replaced from original to moogs 2 days ago,and didnt forget to pack them with grease. there is more clunking with moogs then there was with originals..
They're not tight enough and they're *probably* hitting the control arm.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
They're not tight enough and they're *probably* hitting the control arm.
this is a good time to mention putting Hardened flatwashers on either side of the lower connection to the control arm.look under there and see f the bottom of the MOOG link is touching the Arm.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
I just replaced from original to moogs 2 days ago,and didnt forget to pack them with grease. there is more clunking with moogs then there was with originals..
Like djfrestyl said make sure they tight enough. I guaratee you new moog fsbl will NOT make any clunking noise if propertely installed. Ive had cluncking before moog for a year or more. Keep in mind it is a particular cluncking when you go thru bumps and driveeay bumps. If you check your fsbl and they as tight as they get and still clincking then it is not coming from there. Also if you "feel" thr cluncking on the floor or steering wheel then it might be something else
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:45 PM
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..

Ok man.. will try to trouble shoot tomorow.. tryed to take that ripped dust boot off today, and couldnt do it. Its stuck in there pritty tight. got to take it appart.
Will update in a little bit.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:52 AM
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+1 on the hardened washers.

You can remove the boot if you remove the strut assembly from the car. Takes some finesse. Needle nosed pliers help.

But you shouldn't have to disassemble the strut assembly.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:16 AM
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Door panel removal

How do I take off the front door panel in my 03? I'm trying to change my speaker but having a hard time.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:23 AM
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What wire from the sidemarker relay should I tap into with the fog light wire?
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jrking92
How do I take off the front door panel in my 03? I'm trying to change my speaker but having a hard time.
http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/maxima..._procedure.htm

Originally Posted by tseng1023
What wire from the sidemarker relay should I tap into with the fog light wire?
http://www.shiftice.com/fog_rewire.html
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
this is a good time to mention putting Hardened flatwashers on either side of the lower connection to the control arm.look under there and see f the bottom of the MOOG link is touching the Arm.
No more clunking noise.. the left side was not tightened enouth, it was making noise.. Its quiet now

Thank you

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
+1 on the hardened washers.

You can remove the boot if you remove the strut assembly from the car. Takes some finesse. Needle nosed pliers help.

But you shouldn't have to disassemble the strut assembly.
Took the dustboot off.. Needle nosed pliers defenatly helped ))

Thanks you

Last edited by NmexMAX; 02-02-2012 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
Replace that fuel temperature sensor as the ECU uses that reading to decide how much gas to have the injectors squirt into the engine. As you are doing the tune up, clean the throttle body, too.

For the speedometer, two possibilities. There is a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) in the trans axle that sends an electrical signal to the speedometer. I could be bad, but you should get a P0500 code. The other thing is that the speedometer itself is bad. This is more likely than the VSS being bad. If the lcd display is not showing any mileage, the cluster is definitely bad.

If you don't have a factory service manual (FSM), downlad one from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

The file named fwd.pdf is the cover page of the manual - the formal starting point.

The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index. Look up speedometer and VSS.
Thanks! It's a Coolant Temp Sensor, although I'm not sure what that does...so, you could still be right, lol. I bought that today and I'm going to change it and see what it does. I will be getting the rest of the tune up stuff tomorrow.

The ODO does not work, I'm sure the whole cluster is bad. I paid $1,500 for the car and it is really not in bad shape at all other than the issues I mentioned and it needs a windshield. If nothing fixes it I will just trade it in, even though I really like the car.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:03 PM
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My 01 maxima has 150000 miles on it, looks like regular oil was used.
Can i switch to synthetic? or is it too late for that?
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
No more clunking noise.. the left side was not tightened enouth, it was making noise.. Its quiet now

Thank you
Yeah man always double check work. Like i said pepboys had left the nut that holds the outter tie rod tight in place with the inner finger grip loose. And the outter tie rod one to thx god he at least put the pin back on it. And on the oil its not to late. However once you switch to full synthetic you cannot go back to regular. I recommend mobile 1
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by arkangelgabriel
Yeah man always double check work. Like i said pepboys had left the nut that holds the outter tie rod tight in place with the inner finger grip loose. And the outter tie rod one to thx god he at least put the pin back on it. And on the oil its not to late. However once you switch to full synthetic you cannot go back to regular. I recommend mobile 1

I switched the sway bar links my self, so i had one side up first then the other.. When i was installing links it was very hard to fit them in, do to one side being up. So thats why it wasnt fully tight.

I guess this can be a lesson for someone else.
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by arkangelgabriel
And on the oil its not to late. However once you switch to full synthetic you cannot go back to regular. I recommend mobile 1
Wrong.
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Wrong.
should i switch to synthetic?
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
should i switch to synthetic?
That's all personal preference, you have to decide whether or not you want to. I've never bothered with synthetic, especially on my 330k mile VQ.
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Wrong.
Dont just say "wrong" dude say why. Yes regular oil is good but full synthetic is better. More of a personal decision.
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by arkangelgabriel
Dont just say "wrong" dude say why. Yes regular oil is good but full synthetic is better. More of a personal decision.
What is there to say? Passing as fact your personal belief that you can not freely switch between conventional and full-synthetic motor oil is just that, wrong. I thought it was fairly self-explanatory.

As I told you before, if you're trying to help people, stop spreading misinformation. You have a tendency to do so, without so much as an 'I think' or 'as best I know' or such.
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
I switched the sway bar links my self, so i had one side up first then the other.. When i was installing links it was very hard to fit them in, do to one side being up. So thats why it wasnt fully tight.

I guess this can be a lesson for someone else.
Def dude learning is a never ending proccess. Did you check your fsb bushings? They right there when u change fsbl

Originally Posted by pmohr
What is there to say? Passing as fact your personal belief that you can not freely switch between conventional and full-synthetic motor oil is just that, wrong. I thought it was fairly self-explanatory.

As I told you before, if you're trying to help people, stop spreading misinformation. You have a tendency to do so, without so much as an 'I think' or 'as best I know' or such.
Not misinformation. Maybe if you explain yourself a lil more when you said wrong as in i took it for "synthetic is not better than regular" not as you intended it. And as i have said it before i base my opinions here in experiece ive had. As in my engine runs better and smoother with synthetic than regular thats all. So we have agreed that comes down to personal opinion and mine is full mobile one synthetic since castrol synthetic is not really synthetic.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 02-02-2012 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by arkangelgabriel
Not misinformation. Maybe if you explain yourself a lil more when you said wrong as in i took it for "synthetic is not better than regular" not as you intended it. And as i have said it before i base my opinions here in experiece ive had. As in my engine runs better and smoother with synthetic than regular thats all. So we have agreed that comes down to personal opinion and mine is full mobile one synthetic since castrol synthetic is not really synthetic.
So it's not misinformation that once you switch to full-synthetic motor oil, you can NOT switch back to conventional, for any reason? I'm pretty sure that falls under the misinformation category.

As far as what you took my comment to be in reference to, that's why there's a quote with the appropriate section in bold for context. That's plenty explanation concerning my response, if you actually read the post.

Long story short, if you're going to post something as fact, you really need to do some research first, or at least be able to back it up with something. Otherwise (and as you admit), it's purely anecdotal.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
So it's not misinformation that once you switch to full-synthetic motor oil, you can NOT switch back to conventional, for any reason? I'm pretty sure that falls under the misinformation category.

As far as what you took my comment to be in reference to, that's why there's a quote with the appropriate section in bold for context. That's plenty explanation concerning my response, if you actually read the post.

Long story short, if you're going to post something as fact, you really need to do some research first, or at least be able to back it up with something. Otherwise (and as you admit), it's purely anecdotal.
Oh lord. Ok let me refrase. You can switch back but its not recommendable.
So i dont read good and you dont explain yoursefl good lol
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by arkangelgabriel
Def dude learning is a never ending proccess. Did you check your fsb bushings? They right there when u change fsbl
Yea i actually just changed the bushings today. No more clunk..
I bought moog bushings.. 23mm
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Arsen
Yea i actually just changed the bushings today. No more clunk..
I bought moog bushings.. 23mm
Shoulda gone with ES. Moogs are still rubber, not much different than OEM.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:39 AM
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I put 14 gallons in my car when the DTE read --- and got just over 170 miles before the DTE displayed --- again. Thats under 13MPG. It is all city driving but not frequent stops and i specifically tried to take driving very easy this tank by not ever going over 2500 and rarely getting up to 2000rpm. The mpg calculator on the gauge also read 15mpg the entire time.

My theory is that by letting the tank run so empty i may have sucked up some of the sludge in the tank. However the car "only" has 120k miles and no noticeable change in performance. There really isnt anything that seems like a problem with thecar besides a whurring/whistle that sounds like its coming from the intake manifold at low rpms when the air is cool.

I cant really think of anything to change besides the fuel filter and maybe throwing a bottle of injector cleaner or half of a seafoam in the next full tank but i heard of seafoam exposing some oil comsumption issues in the 3.5. Its just unsettling to see less than V8 truck MPG coming from a maxima.

Any advice appreciated.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:54 AM
  #15000  
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Originally Posted by LongoTE
Any advice appreciated.
Any check engine lights? How new are your 02 sensors?
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