5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Ah, now that you posted better pictures....
The dustboot is sucked in between the piston and the bumpstop. There's your creaking noise.
As for the clunk - check your mounts, and your links since you recently changed those.
The dustboot is sucked in between the piston and the bumpstop. There's your creaking noise.
As for the clunk - check your mounts, and your links since you recently changed those.
Is it ok if i just pull it out of there for now? Clunking noise seem to be coming from the links, i can feel the clunk in the floor...
Just bought a 2000 Maxima SE, 5 speed. I've wanted one for a long time and got a good deal on it...but it does have a few issues. So, my question is- while the car is running and driving it will drive fine for a while then act like it is about to stall for a couple of seconds, then continue to run fine. When I push the clutch in and put it in neutral 7/10 times it stalls. I did a code check before I bought it and it said coolant temp sensor, that was the only code that appeared.
I have not done anything to the car yet- I'm going to start by replacing the sensor, changing spark plugs and doing a full tune up....I'm not sure after that what would cause the issue. The car does have a lot of miles, but I'm not sure how many since the ODO does not work. Any ideas??
I have not done anything to the car yet- I'm going to start by replacing the sensor, changing spark plugs and doing a full tune up....I'm not sure after that what would cause the issue. The car does have a lot of miles, but I'm not sure how many since the ODO does not work. Any ideas??
Clunking noise is most definally your fsbls. I got moog about 3 months ago and its awsome. However with so many miles on it id recomend checking your outter tie rods might be time to change them.
Rattle sound from Engine area.
I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....
Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....
Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
Rattle sound from Engine area.
I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....
Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....
Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
Just bought a 2000 Maxima SE, 5 speed. I've wanted one for a long time and got a good deal on it...but it does have a few issues. So, my question is- while the car is running and driving it will drive fine for a while then act like it is about to stall for a couple of seconds, then continue to run fine. When I push the clutch in and put it in neutral 7/10 times it stalls. I did a code check before I bought it and it said coolant temp sensor, that was the only code that appeared.
I have not done anything to the car yet- I'm going to start by replacing the sensor, changing spark plugs and doing a full tune up....I'm not sure after that what would cause the issue. The car does have a lot of miles, but I'm not sure how many since the ODO does not work. Any ideas??
I have not done anything to the car yet- I'm going to start by replacing the sensor, changing spark plugs and doing a full tune up....I'm not sure after that what would cause the issue. The car does have a lot of miles, but I'm not sure how many since the ODO does not work. Any ideas??
For the speedometer, two possibilities. There is a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) in the trans axle that sends an electrical signal to the speedometer. I could be bad, but you should get a P0500 code. The other thing is that the speedometer itself is bad. This is more likely than the VSS being bad. If the lcd display is not showing any mileage, the cluster is definitely bad.
If you don't have a factory service manual (FSM), downlad one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the cover page of the manual - the formal starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index. Look up speedometer and VSS.
Rattle sound from Engine area.
I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....
Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
I have a Maxima 2000 GLE. For awhile now I have been getting a rattle sound...similar to like when a door hits an old style door jam protector...like it's springy and vibrates. Usually after going over a bump. It doesn't sound like struts. Every car I have had that had that issue creaked, or clicked....this is more like something springing back and forth but whatever it is seem to have enough heft to make a noticable vibration i can feel (or maybe I imagine it) through steering or floor...it's subtle but I think I can actually feel it. It also seems fairly high up maybe mid way. It's not low around wheels......local midas guy wants to do suspension work, but can't really say what issue is. I just don't feel like that's it. it's more of like something large and heavy takes jolt and vibrates or resinates a second. It only happens over bumpy roads usually around 30-50 mph. Sorta reminds me of that cartoon sound like when Wile E Coyote would hit into something stay stuff and just vibrate back and forth......crazy I can't figure it out, and neither can mechanic.....
Recently I had to have new rod, and axles (CV joints were cracked, and sold me on boot kit wouldn't save much given labor) this made ride much smoother.....and had caused alot of issues I didn't realize how bad until it was fixed, but sound was there before and after, and seems to be a seperate issue, just adding to give you a better idea. Car has about 128,000 miles on it. Any ideas of stuff I can look for? The fact it wobbles like it does makes me think it has to be somthing then is not too stressed when driving, otherwise it would creak like strut I would think...I don't know.
I just replaced from original to moogs 2 days ago,and didnt forget to pack them with grease. there is more clunking with moogs then there was with originals..
Like djfrestyl said make sure they tight enough. I guaratee you new moog fsbl will NOT make any clunking noise if propertely installed. Ive had cluncking before moog for a year or more. Keep in mind it is a particular cluncking when you go thru bumps and driveeay bumps. If you check your fsbl and they as tight as they get and still clincking then it is not coming from there. Also if you "feel" thr cluncking on the floor or steering wheel then it might be something else
..
Ok man.. will try to trouble shoot tomorow.. tryed to take that ripped dust boot off today, and couldnt do it. Its stuck in there pritty tight. got to take it appart.
Will update in a little bit.
Will update in a little bit.
+1 on the hardened washers.
You can remove the boot if you remove the strut assembly from the car. Takes some finesse. Needle nosed pliers help.
But you shouldn't have to disassemble the strut assembly.
You can remove the boot if you remove the strut assembly from the car. Takes some finesse. Needle nosed pliers help.
But you shouldn't have to disassemble the strut assembly.
Thank you
Thanks you
Last edited by NmexMAX; 02-02-2012 at 06:43 AM.
Replace that fuel temperature sensor as the ECU uses that reading to decide how much gas to have the injectors squirt into the engine. As you are doing the tune up, clean the throttle body, too.
For the speedometer, two possibilities. There is a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) in the trans axle that sends an electrical signal to the speedometer. I could be bad, but you should get a P0500 code. The other thing is that the speedometer itself is bad. This is more likely than the VSS being bad. If the lcd display is not showing any mileage, the cluster is definitely bad.
If you don't have a factory service manual (FSM), downlad one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the cover page of the manual - the formal starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index. Look up speedometer and VSS.
For the speedometer, two possibilities. There is a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) in the trans axle that sends an electrical signal to the speedometer. I could be bad, but you should get a P0500 code. The other thing is that the speedometer itself is bad. This is more likely than the VSS being bad. If the lcd display is not showing any mileage, the cluster is definitely bad.
If you don't have a factory service manual (FSM), downlad one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
The file named fwd.pdf is the cover page of the manual - the formal starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index. Look up speedometer and VSS.
The ODO does not work, I'm sure the whole cluster is bad. I paid $1,500 for the car and it is really not in bad shape at all other than the issues I mentioned and it needs a windshield. If nothing fixes it I will just trade it in, even though I really like the car.
Yeah man always double check work. Like i said pepboys had left the nut that holds the outter tie rod tight in place with the inner finger grip loose. And the outter tie rod one to thx god he at least put the pin back on it. And on the oil its not to late. However once you switch to full synthetic you cannot go back to regular. I recommend mobile 1
Yeah man always double check work. Like i said pepboys had left the nut that holds the outter tie rod tight in place with the inner finger grip loose. And the outter tie rod one to thx god he at least put the pin back on it. And on the oil its not to late. However once you switch to full synthetic you cannot go back to regular. I recommend mobile 1
I switched the sway bar links my self, so i had one side up first then the other.. When i was installing links it was very hard to fit them in, do to one side being up. So thats why it wasnt fully tight.
I guess this can be a lesson for someone else.
As I told you before, if you're trying to help people, stop spreading misinformation. You have a tendency to do so, without so much as an 'I think' or 'as best I know' or such.
What is there to say? Passing as fact your personal belief that you can not freely switch between conventional and full-synthetic motor oil is just that, wrong. I thought it was fairly self-explanatory.
As I told you before, if you're trying to help people, stop spreading misinformation. You have a tendency to do so, without so much as an 'I think' or 'as best I know' or such.
As I told you before, if you're trying to help people, stop spreading misinformation. You have a tendency to do so, without so much as an 'I think' or 'as best I know' or such.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 02-02-2012 at 06:41 AM.
Not misinformation. Maybe if you explain yourself a lil more when you said wrong as in i took it for "synthetic is not better than regular" not as you intended it. And as i have said it before i base my opinions here in experiece ive had. As in my engine runs better and smoother with synthetic than regular thats all. So we have agreed that comes down to personal opinion and mine is full mobile one synthetic since castrol synthetic is not really synthetic.
As far as what you took my comment to be in reference to, that's why there's a quote with the appropriate section in bold for context. That's plenty explanation concerning my response, if you actually read the post.
Long story short, if you're going to post something as fact, you really need to do some research first, or at least be able to back it up with something. Otherwise (and as you admit), it's purely anecdotal.
So it's not misinformation that once you switch to full-synthetic motor oil, you can NOT switch back to conventional, for any reason? I'm pretty sure that falls under the misinformation category.
As far as what you took my comment to be in reference to, that's why there's a quote with the appropriate section in bold for context. That's plenty explanation concerning my response, if you actually read the post.
Long story short, if you're going to post something as fact, you really need to do some research first, or at least be able to back it up with something. Otherwise (and as you admit), it's purely anecdotal.
As far as what you took my comment to be in reference to, that's why there's a quote with the appropriate section in bold for context. That's plenty explanation concerning my response, if you actually read the post.
Long story short, if you're going to post something as fact, you really need to do some research first, or at least be able to back it up with something. Otherwise (and as you admit), it's purely anecdotal.
So i dont read good and you dont explain yoursefl good lol
I put 14 gallons in my car when the DTE read --- and got just over 170 miles before the DTE displayed --- again. Thats under 13MPG. It is all city driving but not frequent stops and i specifically tried to take driving very easy this tank by not ever going over 2500 and rarely getting up to 2000rpm. The mpg calculator on the gauge also read 15mpg the entire time.
My theory is that by letting the tank run so empty i may have sucked up some of the sludge in the tank. However the car "only" has 120k miles and no noticeable change in performance. There really isnt anything that seems like a problem with thecar besides a whurring/whistle that sounds like its coming from the intake manifold at low rpms when the air is cool.
I cant really think of anything to change besides the fuel filter and maybe throwing a bottle of injector cleaner or half of a seafoam in the next full tank but i heard of seafoam exposing some oil comsumption issues in the 3.5. Its just unsettling to see less than V8 truck MPG coming from a maxima.
Any advice appreciated.
My theory is that by letting the tank run so empty i may have sucked up some of the sludge in the tank. However the car "only" has 120k miles and no noticeable change in performance. There really isnt anything that seems like a problem with thecar besides a whurring/whistle that sounds like its coming from the intake manifold at low rpms when the air is cool.
I cant really think of anything to change besides the fuel filter and maybe throwing a bottle of injector cleaner or half of a seafoam in the next full tank but i heard of seafoam exposing some oil comsumption issues in the 3.5. Its just unsettling to see less than V8 truck MPG coming from a maxima.
Any advice appreciated.