5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
06-24-2010, 03:00 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 81
Hey guys, I need a new catalytic converter, just got the codes on it a few weeks ago. My car (01 SE) passed inspection (before the service engine light came on) and is good until April 2011. I don't exactly have the money to replace the cat right now, so my question is: would ignoring this problem do anything besides make the emissions more toxic?
thanks
thanks
06-24-2010, 03:32 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Hey guys, I need a new catalytic converter, just got the codes on it a few weeks ago. My car (01 SE) passed inspection (before the service engine light came on) and is good until April 2011. I don't exactly have the money to replace the cat right now, so my question is: would ignoring this problem do anything besides make the emissions more toxic?
thanks
thanks
06-24-2010, 05:19 PM
06-24-2010, 08:09 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Hoping to get a little help with my Sister's Maxima. I don't want to add 15 unnecessary posts to other threads. Seems a little excessive.
Anyways, my sister has a 2000 Maxima, automatic. About 3 weeks ago my father and I replaced her Underdrive pulley that had gone bad and was squeeling like crazy.
About a week ago she started developing some hard starting symptoms. Last week it left her stranded twice but were able to get the car started eventually. Both times by jumping and cranking for extended periods of time. Her CEL also kicked on. In testing the battery I initial thought it was the culprit as it was dropping to about 7 volts under load when trying to start. My sister went with my father to Autozone, they tested the Battery and it was in need of replacement but did not solve the cranking issue. Autozone also read the codes leading to a bad crank position sensor and my father replaced that today.
Problem is it still didn't solve the cranking issues and takes way too long to crank. It's also developed a squeek somewhere in the area of the pulleys which stops once the AC compressor kicks on.
Now during the replacement of the underdrive pulley, the new belt to the power steering pump was awfully tight. I don't recall if my father tightened it further after installation and I question whether or not the current symptoms could have developed due to an overtightened belt. Any thoughts? Not sure where to go from here? I'd hate to see my sister have to go to the dealer and shell out some serious cash on something like this. Any help or thoughts on where to at least begin will be greatly appreciated.
Anyways, my sister has a 2000 Maxima, automatic. About 3 weeks ago my father and I replaced her Underdrive pulley that had gone bad and was squeeling like crazy.
About a week ago she started developing some hard starting symptoms. Last week it left her stranded twice but were able to get the car started eventually. Both times by jumping and cranking for extended periods of time. Her CEL also kicked on. In testing the battery I initial thought it was the culprit as it was dropping to about 7 volts under load when trying to start. My sister went with my father to Autozone, they tested the Battery and it was in need of replacement but did not solve the cranking issue. Autozone also read the codes leading to a bad crank position sensor and my father replaced that today.
Problem is it still didn't solve the cranking issues and takes way too long to crank. It's also developed a squeek somewhere in the area of the pulleys which stops once the AC compressor kicks on.
Now during the replacement of the underdrive pulley, the new belt to the power steering pump was awfully tight. I don't recall if my father tightened it further after installation and I question whether or not the current symptoms could have developed due to an overtightened belt. Any thoughts? Not sure where to go from here? I'd hate to see my sister have to go to the dealer and shell out some serious cash on something like this. Any help or thoughts on where to at least begin will be greatly appreciated.
06-25-2010, 06:17 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 317
Hoping to get a little help with my Sister's Maxima. I don't want to add 15 unnecessary posts to other threads. Seems a little excessive.
Anyways, my sister has a 2000 Maxima, automatic. About 3 weeks ago my father and I replaced her Underdrive pulley that had gone bad and was squeeling like crazy.
About a week ago she started developing some hard starting symptoms. Last week it left her stranded twice but were able to get the car started eventually. Both times by jumping and cranking for extended periods of time. Her CEL also kicked on. In testing the battery I initial thought it was the culprit as it was dropping to about 7 volts under load when trying to start. My sister went with my father to Autozone, they tested the Battery and it was in need of replacement but did not solve the cranking issue. Autozone also read the codes leading to a bad crank position sensor and my father replaced that today.
Problem is it still didn't solve the cranking issues and takes way too long to crank. It's also developed a squeek somewhere in the area of the pulleys which stops once the AC compressor kicks on.
Now during the replacement of the underdrive pulley, the new belt to the power steering pump was awfully tight. I don't recall if my father tightened it further after installation and I question whether or not the current symptoms could have developed due to an overtightened belt. Any thoughts? Not sure where to go from here? I'd hate to see my sister have to go to the dealer and shell out some serious cash on something like this. Any help or thoughts on where to at least begin will be greatly appreciated.
Anyways, my sister has a 2000 Maxima, automatic. About 3 weeks ago my father and I replaced her Underdrive pulley that had gone bad and was squeeling like crazy.
About a week ago she started developing some hard starting symptoms. Last week it left her stranded twice but were able to get the car started eventually. Both times by jumping and cranking for extended periods of time. Her CEL also kicked on. In testing the battery I initial thought it was the culprit as it was dropping to about 7 volts under load when trying to start. My sister went with my father to Autozone, they tested the Battery and it was in need of replacement but did not solve the cranking issue. Autozone also read the codes leading to a bad crank position sensor and my father replaced that today.
Problem is it still didn't solve the cranking issues and takes way too long to crank. It's also developed a squeek somewhere in the area of the pulleys which stops once the AC compressor kicks on.
Now during the replacement of the underdrive pulley, the new belt to the power steering pump was awfully tight. I don't recall if my father tightened it further after installation and I question whether or not the current symptoms could have developed due to an overtightened belt. Any thoughts? Not sure where to go from here? I'd hate to see my sister have to go to the dealer and shell out some serious cash on something like this. Any help or thoughts on where to at least begin will be greatly appreciated.
so the problem she is having is starting the car? have you checked the starter yet? also, is the car running fine once it starts or it runs rough and stalls..? if yes, then you might want to check you MAF..
my $.02
06-25-2010, 08:57 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
My sister did described that when she would make a sharp turn she would hear a squeel from the belts which is why I thought an overtightend belt from the UDP and power steering pump may be causing the issue. I drove the car and was unable to regenerate the noise.
I'm still curious if an overtightened belt from the PS pump to the UDP could cause this issue?
The starter cranks fine..I guess I'll take a look at the manual to try to troubleshoot that to make sure. I didn't really think about that...I quess because in my history of starter failure they just pooped out entirely.
Charging voltage was fine running at about 14 volts.
06-25-2010, 06:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Problem Solved.
Come to find out, when my father replaced the crank position sensor situated right below the UDP he failed to tell me he had some difficulty getting the connector off the old sensor and decided to cut the wires and re-splice them.
I decided to take another look at it and he ended up not doing the best of jobs with re-splicing the wires. I undid and redid his work a little better and it solve the starting problems.
The squeaky belt was solved by re tightening the power steering pump belt which was really tight when first installed but must have stretched over time and loosened up.
So it ended up being two pretty simple fixed which I and my sister are happy about. Hopefully it holds up.
Come to find out, when my father replaced the crank position sensor situated right below the UDP he failed to tell me he had some difficulty getting the connector off the old sensor and decided to cut the wires and re-splice them.
I decided to take another look at it and he ended up not doing the best of jobs with re-splicing the wires. I undid and redid his work a little better and it solve the starting problems.
The squeaky belt was solved by re tightening the power steering pump belt which was really tight when first installed but must have stretched over time and loosened up.
So it ended up being two pretty simple fixed which I and my sister are happy about. Hopefully it holds up.
06-25-2010, 07:04 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
Problem Solved.
Come to find out, when my father replaced the crank position sensor situated right below the UDP he failed to tell me he had some difficulty getting the connector off the old sensor and decided to cut the wires and re-splice them.
I decided to take another look at it and he ended up not doing the best of jobs with re-splicing the wires. I undid and redid his work a little better and it solve the starting problems.
The squeaky belt was solved by re tightening the power steering pump belt which was really tight when first installed but must have stretched over time and loosened up.
So it ended up being two pretty simple fixed which I and my sister are happy about. Hopefully it holds up.
Come to find out, when my father replaced the crank position sensor situated right below the UDP he failed to tell me he had some difficulty getting the connector off the old sensor and decided to cut the wires and re-splice them.
I decided to take another look at it and he ended up not doing the best of jobs with re-splicing the wires. I undid and redid his work a little better and it solve the starting problems.
The squeaky belt was solved by re tightening the power steering pump belt which was really tight when first installed but must have stretched over time and loosened up.
So it ended up being two pretty simple fixed which I and my sister are happy about. Hopefully it holds up.
06-25-2010, 09:19 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 81
06-26-2010, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 2
Greetings from the board's newest noob.
I have a silver 01 Max, manual 5, with 105k. I bought it in April 2010 for 4k, a good deal I thought, until the dreaded SES light popped on after a hundred or so miles. Ignored it until a misfire surfaced, along with a puffing exhaust. Pulled the codes, 1320 and 0302.
After doing some research, I changed all six coils and plugs, had the SES light turned off, and the car ran fine for about 1000 miles.
Now, after running for about ten minutes after every start, the misfire/puffing exhaust problem resurfaces, without the SES light coming on. Eventually the problem disappears, but will show up again after the next start.
Opinions?
I have a silver 01 Max, manual 5, with 105k. I bought it in April 2010 for 4k, a good deal I thought, until the dreaded SES light popped on after a hundred or so miles. Ignored it until a misfire surfaced, along with a puffing exhaust. Pulled the codes, 1320 and 0302.
After doing some research, I changed all six coils and plugs, had the SES light turned off, and the car ran fine for about 1000 miles.
Now, after running for about ten minutes after every start, the misfire/puffing exhaust problem resurfaces, without the SES light coming on. Eventually the problem disappears, but will show up again after the next start.
Opinions?
06-26-2010, 09:51 AM
if this is bolt on and i keep my cat conv when i have inspection (2 more years i think) i can put it back on. how will headers test pipe and then cat back exhaust work will that be ok
06-27-2010, 09:08 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
Are the motor mounts expensive (parts and labor) to replace?
Have a 2001 with 135000 miles, very good condition. It has already had the MAF and the O2 sensors replaced.
I am wondering if replacing the mounts makes sense - to prevent frying the ECU.
Another question - does replacing the mounts really work to prevent ECU damage?
What is the probability of the wiring to the mounts and /or the ground connection causing failures also?
Simply disconnecting the mounts semms like it would make the car vibrate more and shift harshly - but maybe its not that bad running without the mounts connected?
Have a 2001 with 135000 miles, very good condition. It has already had the MAF and the O2 sensors replaced.
I am wondering if replacing the mounts makes sense - to prevent frying the ECU.
Another question - does replacing the mounts really work to prevent ECU damage?
What is the probability of the wiring to the mounts and /or the ground connection causing failures also?
Simply disconnecting the mounts semms like it would make the car vibrate more and shift harshly - but maybe its not that bad running without the mounts connected?
06-27-2010, 10:02 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
I just bought a 2001 GLE and after reading about the ECU and the idle air control failures, I am wondering if it makes sense to replace the idle air control before the ECU is burned by the probable failure of the idle air control.
I think an idle air control can be had for about 150, need to find the labor cost, or maybe I can replace that part myself?
06-27-2010, 05:16 PM
Are the motor mounts expensive (parts and labor) to replace?
Have a 2001 with 135000 miles, very good condition. It has already had the MAF and the O2 sensors replaced.
I am wondering if replacing the mounts makes sense - to prevent frying the ECU.
Another question - does replacing the mounts really work to prevent ECU damage?
What is the probability of the wiring to the mounts and /or the ground connection causing failures also?
Simply disconnecting the mounts semms like it would make the car vibrate more and shift harshly - but maybe its not that bad running without the mounts connected?
Have a 2001 with 135000 miles, very good condition. It has already had the MAF and the O2 sensors replaced.
I am wondering if replacing the mounts makes sense - to prevent frying the ECU.
Another question - does replacing the mounts really work to prevent ECU damage?
What is the probability of the wiring to the mounts and /or the ground connection causing failures also?
Simply disconnecting the mounts semms like it would make the car vibrate more and shift harshly - but maybe its not that bad running without the mounts connected?
Check this thread out:http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/612406-ebay-motor-mount-opinions.html
06-28-2010, 03:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Montreal,QC
Posts: 3
P0505 What to do next...
OK so i got the stupid P0505 code and the car would die as so i it started, so I did and full TB cleaning and replaced the TB gasket, the dieing problem went away but the P0505 code just comes back after 2 starts, so i try the Idle Relearn and it didn't work at all tried it may times. Car stays at 1400 RPM in P and N and 950 in D and R.
So I started to do some tests first I check all the wires form the IVAC to the ECM they where all fine I also check for short to ground it was fine also, then i checked the Res of the IVAC and it was fine also but the final test the IVAC didn't make any noise when turning key ON and OFF. So i replaced the IVAC.
Now the new IVAC the RPM goes Up and Down from 1500 to 2000 in P and N, but stays at 1000 in D and R, but when driving I would use half of a 1/4 tank of gas in just 20 Kilometers. I try to do the Idle relearn again with the new IVAC it would take, even when I got a friend to try with a CONII it would fail. So i put the old Valve in for now so the car it drivable.
I also took the ECM out to inspect it for burned chips and smell of burned chips, but everything look good.
I have read just about every Post on this problem and I have no idea where to go from here. Any thing I can test out or try?
So I started to do some tests first I check all the wires form the IVAC to the ECM they where all fine I also check for short to ground it was fine also, then i checked the Res of the IVAC and it was fine also but the final test the IVAC didn't make any noise when turning key ON and OFF. So i replaced the IVAC.
Now the new IVAC the RPM goes Up and Down from 1500 to 2000 in P and N, but stays at 1000 in D and R, but when driving I would use half of a 1/4 tank of gas in just 20 Kilometers. I try to do the Idle relearn again with the new IVAC it would take, even when I got a friend to try with a CONII it would fail. So i put the old Valve in for now so the car it drivable.
I also took the ECM out to inspect it for burned chips and smell of burned chips, but everything look good.
I have read just about every Post on this problem and I have no idea where to go from here. Any thing I can test out or try?
06-28-2010, 08:33 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 317
OK so i got the stupid P0505 code and the car would die as so i it started, so I did and full TB cleaning and replaced the TB gasket, the dieing problem went away but the P0505 code just comes back after 2 starts, so i try the Idle Relearn and it didn't work at all tried it may times. Car stays at 1400 RPM in P and N and 950 in D and R.
So I started to do some tests first I check all the wires form the IVAC to the ECM they where all fine I also check for short to ground it was fine also, then i checked the Res of the IVAC and it was fine also but the final test the IVAC didn't make any noise when turning key ON and OFF. So i replaced the IVAC.
Now the new IVAC the RPM goes Up and Down from 1500 to 2000 in P and N, but stays at 1000 in D and R, but when driving I would use half of a 1/4 tank of gas in just 20 Kilometers. I try to do the Idle relearn again with the new IVAC it would take, even when I got a friend to try with a CONII it would fail. So i put the old Valve in for now so the car it drivable.
I also took the ECM out to inspect it for burned chips and smell of burned chips, but everything look good.
I have read just about every Post on this problem and I have no idea where to go from here. Any thing I can test out or try?
So I started to do some tests first I check all the wires form the IVAC to the ECM they where all fine I also check for short to ground it was fine also, then i checked the Res of the IVAC and it was fine also but the final test the IVAC didn't make any noise when turning key ON and OFF. So i replaced the IVAC.
Now the new IVAC the RPM goes Up and Down from 1500 to 2000 in P and N, but stays at 1000 in D and R, but when driving I would use half of a 1/4 tank of gas in just 20 Kilometers. I try to do the Idle relearn again with the new IVAC it would take, even when I got a friend to try with a CONII it would fail. So i put the old Valve in for now so the car it drivable.
I also took the ECM out to inspect it for burned chips and smell of burned chips, but everything look good.
I have read just about every Post on this problem and I have no idea where to go from here. Any thing I can test out or try?
please someone correct me if im wrong..
06-29-2010, 10:40 AM
CF front lip o where o where can i find u ?
new to the site .....i have been googling like a madman..starting to think its been all in vain....i am looking for a carbon fiber front lip for my 03 SE.....any help on this a be greatly appreciated....thanx guyz
06-29-2010, 03:28 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
06-30-2010, 02:35 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 17
Codes ohh the codes
OK here it goes... i bought a 03 nissan maxima 3.5L SE with a six speed in it. A month after i bought it the engine lost compression in cylinder one. So i had the engine replaced the engine that they sent me from LKQ was from a 02 altima. the first code i got was P0335 and it ran like crap rough at idle and rough till 2500rpms then it seems to smooth out. now i have three new codes P0300 P0021 P0011. i have replaced the crankshaft position sensor three times with aftermarket units then just now with a nissan unit....that was 101.76 total 
when the engine was being put in it got a tune up with new plugs and coils(aftermarket) and oil change. now i have no idea what to do. by my understanding low oil could cause this problem too i have not checked it since the change though i will in a moment. any help would be great since at this point this car has been nothing but a nightmare.
when the engine was being put in it got a tune up with new plugs and coils(aftermarket) and oil change. now i have no idea what to do. by my understanding low oil could cause this problem too i have not checked it since the change though i will in a moment. any help would be great since at this point this car has been nothing but a nightmare.
Last edited by islingpaint151; 07-02-2010 at 09:47 AM.
07-01-2010, 06:28 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
Ok, i am a noob here, and really a noob in general when it comes to cars. I'm having a problem with my 2000 Maxima GLE. So i will explain what has happened so far, i'll try not to make this too long.
First about a month ago i was driving and the car started bucking every once in a while, mostly while accelerating also the engine was idling rough and a little noisier than usual. I had just filled up the tank at a off brand gas station, so i was thinking I got some bad gas. I put in some of the STP gas treatment, after a few miles it stopped and went back to normal.
Now about a week ago, these symptoms came back, not as bad as before but still very noticeable. Currently it is idling rough, engine is noisier, car shaking a little, most noticeable when in reverse. The car isn't bucking anymore but when i accelerate hard like over 2500 rpms the cel will blink which i was told was a misfire. When this started happening again i tried the gas treatment again, but that did nothing. I have been told it could be a few things, spark plugs, coils, or even fuel injectors bad or clogged. I have tried some fuel injector cleaner and i think it has gotten a little better but that could just be in my head. So my question is what would be the most likely thing that could cause this? Any help would be appreciated.
First about a month ago i was driving and the car started bucking every once in a while, mostly while accelerating also the engine was idling rough and a little noisier than usual. I had just filled up the tank at a off brand gas station, so i was thinking I got some bad gas. I put in some of the STP gas treatment, after a few miles it stopped and went back to normal.
Now about a week ago, these symptoms came back, not as bad as before but still very noticeable. Currently it is idling rough, engine is noisier, car shaking a little, most noticeable when in reverse. The car isn't bucking anymore but when i accelerate hard like over 2500 rpms the cel will blink which i was told was a misfire. When this started happening again i tried the gas treatment again, but that did nothing. I have been told it could be a few things, spark plugs, coils, or even fuel injectors bad or clogged. I have tried some fuel injector cleaner and i think it has gotten a little better but that could just be in my head. So my question is what would be the most likely thing that could cause this? Any help would be appreciated.
07-01-2010, 06:50 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 317
Ok, i am a noob here, and really a noob in general when it comes to cars. I'm having a problem with my 2000 Maxima GLE. So i will explain what has happened so far, i'll try not to make this too long.
First about a month ago i was driving and the car started bucking every once in a while, mostly while accelerating also the engine was idling rough and a little noisier than usual. I had just filled up the tank at a off brand gas station, so i was thinking I got some bad gas. I put in some of the STP gas treatment, after a few miles it stopped and went back to normal.
Now about a week ago, these symptoms came back, not as bad as before but still very noticeable. Currently it is idling rough, engine is noisier, car shaking a little, most noticeable when in reverse. The car isn't bucking anymore but when i accelerate hard like over 2500 rpms the cel will blink which i was told was a misfire. When this started happening again i tried the gas treatment again, but that did nothing. I have been told it could be a few things, spark plugs, coils, or even fuel injectors bad or clogged. I have tried some fuel injector cleaner and i think it has gotten a little better but that could just be in my head. So my question is what would be the most likely thing that could cause this? Any help would be appreciated.
First about a month ago i was driving and the car started bucking every once in a while, mostly while accelerating also the engine was idling rough and a little noisier than usual. I had just filled up the tank at a off brand gas station, so i was thinking I got some bad gas. I put in some of the STP gas treatment, after a few miles it stopped and went back to normal.
Now about a week ago, these symptoms came back, not as bad as before but still very noticeable. Currently it is idling rough, engine is noisier, car shaking a little, most noticeable when in reverse. The car isn't bucking anymore but when i accelerate hard like over 2500 rpms the cel will blink which i was told was a misfire. When this started happening again i tried the gas treatment again, but that did nothing. I have been told it could be a few things, spark plugs, coils, or even fuel injectors bad or clogged. I have tried some fuel injector cleaner and i think it has gotten a little better but that could just be in my head. So my question is what would be the most likely thing that could cause this? Any help would be appreciated.
there are more reasons why this might be happening but this all i can come up with right now..
07-01-2010, 07:06 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
do you use premium fuel? you might have clogged up injectors too.. also.. dont use so much of that engine cleaner stuff.. it might hurt more than it helps.. have you checked your plugs? ignition coils? also.. has the car thrown any codes??
there are more reasons why this might be happening but this all i can come up with right now..
there are more reasons why this might be happening but this all i can come up with right now..
I wasn't using premium fuel before, but I have been for the last month or two. I haven't checked anything yet, I don't really have the tools. I am going to borrow some of my brothers tools this weekend to at least change the plugs, how do i check to see if any of the coils are bad? The cel is on but i do not have a scanner to check to see what the codes are. When driving the cel did blink a few times so i know that means a misfire, i just don't know if it is a random misfire or in a specific cylinder. I need to get my hands on a scanner to see.
07-01-2010, 07:18 AM
Headlights replaced by collision shop dont look right to me
I had a accident around december slid on the ice down a hill and smacked a 20" high curb did lots of damage to the front end but the shop ended up replacing the 2 headlights with recycled parts per the insurance company at first i mentioned to them that they didnt look correct there was a gap between the light and the bumper but both the shop and insurance adjuster both claimed they were correct and its just the way im looking at it.so anyways its really starting to urk the hell out of me so im just posting the pics up to get some opinions on this and if im right in my assumsion that they are wrong.
Last edited by cjandura; 07-01-2010 at 07:19 AM. Reason: forgot to add pictures
07-01-2010, 07:37 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
Thanks for the reply
I wasn't using premium fuel before, but I have been for the last month or two. I haven't checked anything yet, I don't really have the tools. I am going to borrow some of my brothers tools this weekend to at least change the plugs, how do i check to see if any of the coils are bad? The cel is on but i do not have a scanner to check to see what the codes are. When driving the cel did blink a few times so i know that means a misfire, i just don't know if it is a random misfire or in a specific cylinder. I need to get my hands on a scanner to see.
I wasn't using premium fuel before, but I have been for the last month or two. I haven't checked anything yet, I don't really have the tools. I am going to borrow some of my brothers tools this weekend to at least change the plugs, how do i check to see if any of the coils are bad? The cel is on but i do not have a scanner to check to see what the codes are. When driving the cel did blink a few times so i know that means a misfire, i just don't know if it is a random misfire or in a specific cylinder. I need to get my hands on a scanner to see.
07-01-2010, 12:06 PM
Taillight Swap Confusion
Alright, I have a 2003 Maxima GLE with the chrome headlights. I'm not a fan of them at all and my car is black so I think the 2000-01 SE taillights would look great on it. I've done a ridiculous amount of searches on here and Google to figure out how this would work and learned all about how you have to swap in the full wiring harness and everything for the swap to work. I found a guy on eBay who sells OEM SE tails. Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
These looked good to me, so I messaged the guy and asked if it's just the cover or if it includes the wiring harness and everything. This is what I got back:
"I pulled the part and took a look. The lights come with bulbs and wiring. Thank you for your inquiry. ONLY FITS '00-'01"
Ok, sounded good up until that last part. But I mean, if it has the bulbs and wiring, it should fit right? I'm confused.
What I'm looking for is can somebody tell me, if I buy these, will the swap work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
These looked good to me, so I messaged the guy and asked if it's just the cover or if it includes the wiring harness and everything. This is what I got back:
"I pulled the part and took a look. The lights come with bulbs and wiring. Thank you for your inquiry. ONLY FITS '00-'01"
Ok, sounded good up until that last part. But I mean, if it has the bulbs and wiring, it should fit right? I'm confused.
What I'm looking for is can somebody tell me, if I buy these, will the swap work?
07-01-2010, 02:59 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
I had a accident around december slid on the ice down a hill and smacked a 20" high curb did lots of damage to the front end but the shop ended up replacing the 2 headlights with recycled parts per the insurance company at first i mentioned to them that they didnt look correct there was a gap between the light and the bumper but both the shop and insurance adjuster both claimed they were correct and its just the way im looking at it.so anyways its really starting to urk the hell out of me so im just posting the pics up to get some opinions on this and if im right in my assumsion that they are wrong.
Last edited by VQP0WER; 07-01-2010 at 03:01 PM.
07-01-2010, 03:58 PM
So it will fit without a problem if I do that? I'm just concerned with all the compatibility issues I've heard about when going from 5.5 gen to 5th gen taillights, I don't want to screw this up. Also if someone could point me in the direction of a step-by-step guide on how to do this it would be appreciated, there's one listed in the How-to's on here but it links to an incorrect page that has nothing to do with the process.
07-01-2010, 04:23 PM
So it will fit without a problem if I do that? I'm just concerned with all the compatibility issues I've heard about when going from 5.5 gen to 5th gen taillights, I don't want to screw this up. Also if someone could point me in the direction of a step-by-step guide on how to do this it would be appreciated, there's one listed in the How-to's on here but it links to an incorrect page that has nothing to do with the process.
07-01-2010, 04:39 PM
It will fit 100%, like I said earlier, reuse your stock harness and put them on your new 5th one. As far as taking them out, I think theres 3 bolts on each side... I believe its 8mm. After that, theres adhesive so its kinda sticky to take out the stock one. I recommand you go to local auto store to get some extra weather adhesive and apply on your new one.
07-01-2010, 05:37 PM
WTF? That looks like crap. The mechanic and insurance agent doesn't know what the hell they are looking at. The headlamp should basically be resting on the bumper cover. Can you also take a wider shot? From here, it also looks like the bumpers skirt lights are not level?
Heres the additional pics i knew something wasnt right with the way it looked and if you think that work is bad you should see the strut(used) tierod end and the sticky gray tape they wrapped the pipe in that comes from the 2 pre-cats i only noticed that one today when i changed my main cat and that mesh flex on the pipe is totally torn and wrapped with wire to hold it in place
07-01-2010, 09:42 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3
Going to be having a family friend install a new MAF sensor tomorrow. He's a good mechanic... works on Caterpillars though. So I'm wondering is there any kind of ECU reset or something else that may not be obvious that he's going to have to do but might not be aware of? I just want this to go as smooth as possible.
Hopefully this will cure the weird throttle response/transmission slippage and 'slow responding O2 sensor' code thats been coming up.
Thanks in advance!
Hopefully this will cure the weird throttle response/transmission slippage and 'slow responding O2 sensor' code thats been coming up.
Thanks in advance!
07-01-2010, 09:54 PM
Alright, I have a 2003 Maxima GLE with the chrome headlights. I'm not a fan of them at all and my car is black so I think the 2000-01 SE taillights would look great on it. I've done a ridiculous amount of searches on here and Google to figure out how this would work and learned all about how you have to swap in the full wiring harness and everything for the swap to work. I found a guy on eBay who sells OEM SE tails. Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
These looked good to me, so I messaged the guy and asked if it's just the cover or if it includes the wiring harness and everything. This is what I got back:
"I pulled the part and took a look. The lights come with bulbs and wiring. Thank you for your inquiry. ONLY FITS '00-'01"
Ok, sounded good up until that last part. But I mean, if it has the bulbs and wiring, it should fit right? I'm confused. What I'm looking for is can somebody tell me, if I buy these, will the swap work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
These looked good to me, so I messaged the guy and asked if it's just the cover or if it includes the wiring harness and everything. This is what I got back:
"I pulled the part and took a look. The lights come with bulbs and wiring. Thank you for your inquiry. ONLY FITS '00-'01"
Ok, sounded good up until that last part. But I mean, if it has the bulbs and wiring, it should fit right? I'm confused.
What I'm looking for is can somebody tell me, if I buy these, will the swap work?