Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Thats exactly what i thought P1320 is the coils issue, and P00302 is the second cylinder.

Yesturday i have installed a used coil that i have bought of a member on the board, the issue arized again today on the way home. i switched coils between cylinder 2 and 3 later to see what happens.. drove the car for few trips 5-6 miles each in the city, and it was fine.

Just drove the car again the engine is shaking, but ses is off so is slip, tcs.
Any suggestions?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Wait, so are you or are you not getting both codes? That's what I was trying to clear up.

And again, aftermarket or OEM coil? Was it an updated part, or one of the originals that are prone to failure?

I wouldn't go with a used original coil, or even a new aftermarket. New OEM, or (hopefully) less used updated OEM part.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Its a used oem coil..

Earlier i was getting those codes, when i switched cylinder 2-3, i cleared the codes at auto zone. So now engine is shaking like its on one cylinder, but im not getting codes. Well i didnt even scan it again.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Okay...again. Is it the original, prone to failure coil, or the revised, updated coil?

Earlier you were getting 'those codes'...meaning both P1320 AND P0302?

If you're looking for assistance, you need to answer questions. I'm not asking them just for the hell of it, there is a purpose there.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

It is original oem coil and not updated one.

Yes, earlier i was getting those codes P1320 and P0302

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

As said, I wouldn't be trusting original coils, especially used from an unknown environment.

If you don't have the capability of scoping the coils, you'll just have to wait to see if it throws a code for a specific cylinder misfire, and go from there.

The best (though not the cheapest) way to go if you've got all original coils, would be to install a complete set of updated coils. That's the Nissan recommended method for P1320 incidents, anyway.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

waisted money.. Thank you for your help. Should i get them from nissam? or is there a cheaper place?

ryan3417

Just incase anyone wanted to know, I took off the plastic manifold cover on my 3.5 and immediately noticed a gash in the vacuum line going into my power actuator valve. Thankfully it was on the end so i just cut the gashed portion of the hose off and plugged it back into the valve and i REALLY notice the power back now. Appears to have been a simple vacuum leak the entire time and didn't cost me a dime to fix.

Hope this info is helpful to someone with a similar problem.

ViRTualTeRRoRisT

I tried to create a thread for my issue and I don't have the permissions to do so. Here's what's going on: I have a 2001 Maxima SE Automatic with 136k miles on it. When I accelerate, the engine refuses to respond as it's supposed to. Before, when I was in part or neutral and I floored the accelerator, the engine would red-line. Now, it cuts off at 4.5k RPM and I'm left baffled. The reason why I say it's baffling is cause if I half throttle it, I can get >5k RPM. It makes no sense.

Here's a vid of what's going on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2PJi48PsUQ

Any idea on what it could possibly be?

mrmech82

Ya, I asked some fellow mechanics.
I have obviously researched.
Since I have great tools, like Mitchell1 and my snap on scanner, there isn't much I can not read or do.
I go to a site like this hoping to find someone knowledgeable. Someone who works with only this genre maxima.
I am a used car tech.
All the basics are covered.
MAF is fine.
Upper and lowers are replaced, same with the TB.
Replaced the complete TB with one the had only 60k on.
That includes the IAC and TPS
EGR tube is clean and clear, and functioning properly.

This is more or less my complaint. Because still days later, the only "suggestion" is a MAF.
Now if this had its own thread, then maybe that would not be such a common suggestion because it is clearly not the case.
I get you probably get a lot of kids on here, asking questions about many threads already here. I get it. But if you write, that if a mod feels necessary to add, and then doesn't even after days of nothing, shows there is not much mod activity on this site. And because of this thread, shows the mods are not active and this is the only way to prevent flooding the forum, instead of diligence and removing threads as appropriated.
To me it makes no sense. I have no problem on the mercedes forum if I have a question, I have no problems on the jeep forum, or the suzuki forum, or lthe ford, or chevrolet forums.
This is the first forum I have been to that does this, and it shows how helpfull it is. I already assume this site is no help. And will continue on my journey through nissan hel l.
Till then have a good time replacing MAF sensors!!!

LongoTE

Yes these forums are far from perfect because a so-so FWD family sedan hardly attracts all the gearheads and mechanics that love to get down to the fine details to fix things. And those that are here, are off fabbing up their next mod before they drop it in and post an interesting thread about it. I suggest trying to find a thread about a problem with a lot of similar symptoms and bring it back from the dead. its much better than yet another a new thread.

And if Nissan hell only involves replacing sensors every 100k miles then im okay with that.

reborndomestic

hey whats up there fellow max lovers . i am new here but this is not my first rodeo as far as nissan goes . i have built 3 240 sx's . this is my first front wheel drive car though . i purchased an 02 max gle vq35 auto . i am wanting to mod it but i cant find much for it . where is a good site to find mods for this car i am wanting to start with some stainless headers and full exhaust. i do not like to keep my rides stock for long . plans are full exhaust would like to do cams ,cai , suspension chassis and maybe a turbo in the future . so any help would be greatly appreciated .by the way i do know when i do a turbo setup the headers will have to go . the turbo wont come for a good while . wanted to set it up n/a at first.


thank you
todd

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-comments.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...?highlight=BRM
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...rder-here.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...hlight=headers
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/4...iscussion.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharged-turbocharged-38/

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Update.. Replaced coils, no more issues.

Thank you guys for help

CoolCappy

ok guys i need your help. I've searched this forum for the fried ecu and I can't quite find the answer. My car is getting the p505 code. I replaced the IACV and the code came back I've tried the idle relearn and it's not taking. Now I pulled out the ECM and no chip is burned or no visible damage. Should I still send it in to be repaired?

maximus561

Hey all I have a 03 maxima wanna grab the xxr 521 wheels but not sure if I wanna go 18x10 all around or 18x8/12 front 18x10 rear I'm looking at the flat black with the silver studs since Maximus is silver please any input will be greatly appreciated also thinking in riding on 235-40-18 all around.. Let me know what ya think!!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Assuming you're going to lower, I wouldn't put 10" up front. Stagger them or get 8.5's all the way around. You're not RWD.

Also, 235 is not nearly wide enough for 10".

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

I just had the p0021 code and I changed the oil and good filter and the damn cel is still on. Now I know I can reset the ecu. Will that mess anything up.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

If by "reset the ECU" you mean clear the code(s) with an OBD-2 scanner, no it won't mess anything up.

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

nah I mean with the whole press the pedal and like depress it

reborndomestic

awesome man thank you so much . been hard searching i am not much of a computer dude i am a gearhead lol.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I'll stick my neck out and say that you probably need to get the ECU repaired.

Before you do that, here is a thread about IACV blowing the ECU. It's kind of long but may be worth your while.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...seconds-2.html

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

"with the whole press the pedal and like depress it"

Once again I'm assuming here because your communication skills are lacking in depth and clarity, that you're talking about the MANUAL procedure that clears the codes.

And if so, no, you won't 'mess anything up.'

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Fuses okay? Are the electrical connectors good?

I'd check for continuity from the ECM plug to the IACV control actuator plug and make sure the wires and connectors are okay before going with the nuclear option. What ECM connector pin goes there should be in the FSM's electrical section.

ajth87

Hey Everyone,

I am new to the forum so I apologize for my question that has probably been answered or discussed prior though I keep searching and can't find anything specific enough. I just bought a 2001 Maxima with 132K. I love the car thus far. The engine is so smooth, it's great! My question was regarding the automatic transmission. I do notice a slight jerk when I put it in reverse from park. Is this normal or could it be caused by mounts? Also, i notice when shifting from 1st to 2nd there tends to be more feel than what I feel would be normal. I am thinking it has something to do with the tranny fluid needing to be flushed and/or mounts. Any ideas? I appreciate all input or even a link to more specific info!

AJ

Galactica

iTrader: (5)

Personally I doubt that's very abnormal. Have you checked your tranny fluid to see if it's nice and red? If it's dark like motor oil, that's bad...if it's nice and red and clear and it's at the proper level, I doubt you'd need to change it. Every auto I've ever owned had a slight jerk when going from park to reverse. You should feel the shifting on my 91 diesel Ford! It has a 97 powerstroke 4-speed auto with a billet torque converter and a shift kit. When the TC locks up it's like someone just kicked it in the ****. In my mind, firm shifts are always better than super-smooth, sloppy shifts. Firm shifts mean less slippage in the tranny and probably a longer lasting trans overall.

And how are you new to the forum but you registered almost 4 years ago?? LOL!! I'M the FNG!!

ajth87

LOL. What I should have said is this is my first time posting regarding my own maxima that I just purchased. I know I registered a while ago but I have never been active. Sorry for the miscommunication.

@Galactica - Thanks for your input! I will check the trans fluid to see the color and level. It isn't anything serious, at least in my opinion, because it isn't terrible at all. Thanks again for the input.

AJ

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

To achieve more power with these things, you need to be both. A lot of the power comes from this alleged "computer".

curvecrazy

I've got a PO174 lean bank 2 code on an 05 pathfinder. ( I know not a maxima but I used to own one+++) I believe the newer maxima's have the same 4.0 V6 engine. fwiw

My car seems to start up and run symptom free but its had the CEL on now for a few weeks.

I've got the Nissan Factory manual on CD and tried my best to diagnose this. -Air leaks intake and exhaust manifold before cat - Air/Fuel Sensor 1 - fuel pressure - injectors - grounds - circuits/wiring etc... listed as possible causes if I remember right......


I looked hard for any air leaks on the intake and the exhaust manifold before the cat. I ran Lucas fuel system treatment through it. I cleaned my MAF very carefully with isopropyl alcohol, my air filter housing thoroughly with dish soap/water and new filter installed too. Removed the PCV valve and tubing. Valve was a bit gunked and I cleaned it with engine degreaser and reinstalled. Checked my 3 engine compartment grounds. As per the manual I checked my circuits/wiring for the MAF and for the A/F sensor 1 all good with continuity and no shorts to ground or power.

I don't have an OBDII tester so the local autoparts store helps me with the readings. They showed me parameters which I couldn't really fully understand but showed the expected (fueling?) at 255 and bank 2(code PO174 bank) at 204 and the bank 1 at 211(no code thrown). It's awkward here cause I don't know what exactly those parameters stood for but also of note is that both banks are well down from the 255 spec listed so maybe my MAF is bad......

I also don't have a fuel gage to check system pressure. I was going to switch the A/F1 sensors and see if the code changed but having trouble removing them. So I've spent a lot to time on this without success. I assumed it was not the MAF cause I have only the PO174 code and not the PO171 too.

Does anyone know if these wideband A/F sensors degrade in performance over the time? Cause if I can get it loose I was thinking of just replacing it due to the age and mileage see if it fixes the problem....

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

It's a VQ series engine, but not the same.

If just one bank is complaining about lean readings, the first thing to check is the O2 sensor the P code says that reading is taken from. Make sure that plug, wire, and ground there are okay first. If it's cheap, replacing the sensor is an option. Most of the sensors can be had from Advance Auto for $40-$50 for generic ones made by Bosch where you splice the wires in, or 90 or so for a direct fit model. Don't replace them all, just the one, if you choose to.

The next thing to check is the injector wiring as a whole on that bank. I'd also check to make sure the fuel pressure and so on is the same.

A MAF misreading/drift/whatever will cause the whole system to begin to exhibit nonspecific driveability problems long before codes are thrown.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Normal, especially when cold, when rpms are a bit higher and ATF is thicker. You're putting tension on the driveline, and what you feel is the slack being taken up. The original motor mounts are fluid-filled to reduce vibrations, which adds slack to the system overall. It's not an issue unless they're leaking or exhibiting other signs of failure.

smokin5s

After re-doing the RTV twice (the 2nd time, caking the bottom of the block as well as the pan and letting it sit for 48 hours with no oil or anything in it) I think I got it... unfortunately, the first time I put RTV on it, I filled the oil right away and had a mess on my hands, all of the oil just went everywhere including all over the frame so driving it will be a bit smelly for a while... I just let it sit and idle in my drive way for a few minutes tonight and it about stunk me out when I pulled it back in the garage.

20thAnn767

Hey everyone, been a member for a while, but havent really posted. Ihave utilized the forums to find answers to alot of my questions but can't seem to find one to my current issue. Let me explain. I have 2001 20th ann, I was driving home from work a couloir of days ago, battery light came on and lost power steering, so first thought was obviously my belts. I made it home and after checking realized both my belts had been destroyed and lost in the road somewhere. So I went out bought two new belts, had a little difficulty getting to the bolts for the tensioner on the ps, but besides that no major issues. Replaced both belts and started the car. Both belts seem to have good tension, but after starting I noticed the removable pulley that goes on the crank for the main serp belt had moved inward and was rubbing against the ps belt. This in turn put the other belt slightly out of whack and created rubbing. I checked all the pulleys, none are seized and there doesn't appear to be any play in them, now this may be a stupid question, with an easy answer, but my mechanical knowledge is rather limited and I cant for the life of me figure out what would cause this. Could there be an issue with the crank shaft? I noticed some gouges and marks in the rubber that holds the outer pulley on, could that possibly cause it to move if it is not snug enough? Any help is very much appreciated, as I have been trying to figure this out for a few days now and live 30 miles from my work and won't be able to rely on rides or borrowing vehicles for much longer. I will bring the car to a mechanic if necessary, but my funds are rather tight right now, and was trying to avoid that if at all possible.

Once again thank you for any help you may be able to give, also sorry for such a long post but I was just trying to fully explain it the best I could.

Brian.

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like the common crank pulley to me, look closely at the pulley and see if you can see it separating. Since your good at searching you should be able to find the thread that shows what I mean by a separating pulley. This separation causes abnormal wear in the belts especially the ps belt. So I'd start there because what your describing sounds like you need to replace that pulley. good luck

20thAnn767

Thanks a lot Biglou, sounds like it would make since, I'll look into that.

TheDude00

Alright, so I am looking into changing my fuel filter in hopes of an increase in gas mileage. The car has 176xxx on it and I doubt the original owner replaced it. So my questions are:
1. Will this really be worth doing. ie could I get an MPG increase or is this really not necessary.
2. Where can I find a thread that will say how to for an 00-01? I saw the one for 02-03 and searched through the form but all the links for "00-01" replacement lead to threads not even dealing with fuel pumps.
Thanks for the help guys.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Fuel pump procedure SHOULD be the same for both - it's located under the rear seat and I doubt significant changes were made such that they'd be hugely different. The part #'s might be different though.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Changing the fuel filter will not improve your MPG. If the filter starts to plug up, it will reduce fuel flow and performance will suffer. If anything, that would improve MPG.

Here are 2 links to filter replacement. Neither one mentions the year of the car but the first one uses the 2002/2003 filter.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...placement.html

http://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.html

Filter part numbers:

2000 & 2001 - 16400-2Y922
2002 & 2003 - 16400-2Y505

robosaki

Hi, since I can't make a new thread about my question yet, hopefully I can put it here and someone can quickly confirm it.

My question: I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima GLE and I want to know if the fuel entry has a metal 'tongue' visible right when you remove the 'fuel cap'? My ford explorer 1997 has a fuel 'tongue' in the hole right after taking the fuel cap off... I'd like to confirm if its supposed to be in the 2002 Maxima or not, i bought this car a while back and i'm still not sure.

Any help would be appreciated !

Thanks,

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I take it you mean it's the metal thing that flips out of the way when you insert the gas nozzle?

Mine just has the nozzle restrictor.