djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Go OEM, it's only a couple dollars. Often the leak is caused because the axle is not seated properly. Not sure if yours was recently replaced or not.

5aprilc

Hi, I found this ad online for replacement performance headers, http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...fid=p233-c3665# now I got the idea to replace my headers and Y pipe because I got a PO430 code. Now instead of paying the dealership $700 to buy a new CAT, I figured I would try going this route. Does anyone know if these headers are any good? Also, I live in NH, would I still be able to pass inspection with this setup? Thank you.

2kMaximusGLE

Hello everyone,
I think this site is awesome as it helps many with there Maxima issue(s). I have a 2k GLE Maxima AT and got the P0505 SES code 3 weeks back. Since then and by reading my threads on this site I stopped driving my car till I was able to fix it. What was originally happening is when I turn the car on it won't idle right (usually just turns off). I'm able to help it idle by giving it gas till 500RPM, it will then struggle but hold it there all by itself (without me giving it gas anymore). I worried about shorting the ECU, resulting in me forking out more $$$'s to fix this car; so I stopped driving it. I've tested the engine mounts, IACV, ignition coils, MAF, TPS (to an extent). I've since then replaced Ignition coils (all six even though just 1 seemed to not ohm out right) with 6 spark plugs, disconnected both front/rear (electric) engine mounts even though just front seems to have voltage on both 3 and 2 pins, replaced IACV and did coolant bypass. My car now idles 700 or above (since its cold out) but car has weird vibration. Any idea what to check or test to diagnose the issue further? I really don't want to check ECU just because I can't seem to get the Philips screws off (got one off) with the room I have down there. Anyone know any other methods I can go to see if it is ACTUALLY a burned ECU without removing ECU? Should I do a Idle Relearn or is that for something else (since my car is idling at the 700rpm mark) and how do I do this without any other equipment? Hope I do get a response.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

What codes is the ECU showing now?

Mine idles around 700 rpm and that's fine. Per the factory service manual, it states that the IACV control is used to make the engine idle at "The target engine speed is the lowest speed at which the engine can operate steadily."

And what kind of weird vibration - does this change as the car goes up, or is it just a light stumble at idle, or does it feel like it's missing (in which case, just wait for the code ).

mr_fear_809

i have a 01 and i have done a bit a research and found that on the oem headlights HIDs do cause quite a bit of glare but i currently have a bi-xenon kit and i am having trouble with it i dont know if it is because it is cheap or what but my problem is i cant get the bulb to move from low to high. I have tried flipping the diode 180 degrees but once i do that and i hit the high beams it stays in the regular position. Meanwhile if i flip it 180 degrees again once i hit the high beams it turns off but i have found that if i move the diode it moves the bulb. I think this is a cheap kit but honestly i have gotten 3 different kits for a few other cars from mod-express.com and they have all been great sets with absolutely no problems until now. Any suggestions as to a solution or should i just return them and buy a new set of bi xenon HIDs and if so where can i get a set for a decent price.

snicklefitz

hey everyone, i just purchased another max for my wife...i have a 96 , she had a 96 but wrecked it. Any ways...when i bought this car it had a weird rattle...took it to mechanics the day of purchase and they said oh flex pipe is broken probably just that , looks like a pretty good car ect ect....so. We bought the car , drove it back 4 hours and had flex pipe and "other" exhaust leak fixed and paid like 200 for that...We still are hearing a constant rattle/gurgling noise, took it to a few different places ..then finally a nissan dealership...final diagnosis is timing chain guides are causing noise....dealer wanted 1850 plus tax....local mechanic that i work with wants 1000. the car is 2000 maxima with 105,000 on it...paid 4200$ plus the flex pipe ect ect i guess my question is should we fix the rattle? drive it like it is? used motor? " have read that may be cheaper or around the same as doing the chain" or try to sell it....i will try and post an audio clip tomorrow maybe that will help ....anyways thanks ahead of time for your responses. oh and also had 2 cel codes for rear o2 sensors but i think they are the jackpot codes that could be a few different things...the light just went away on its own on the way back from the dealer , fixed itself? ok thanks again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Please repost your suspension question here, I will guide you.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

2kMaximusGLE

Hello, just went and drove the car around. I have to update whats going on. The car is no longer having SES light (after replacing IACV). I can't seem to feel vibrations anymore; though because Electric Engine Mounts (both front and rear) are disconnected I do feel slight vibrations on Idle but thats suspected and there so little that I can live with. Car seems completely fine except the fact that it feels like I've lost some HP. I mean it doesn't seem very strong like it used to; Its so little that Its hard to say if its for sure a change or I'm just being parinoid. I do notice though when accelerating above 2k rpm It is a little slow to go past 2k rpm and towards the higher rpms. MAF? Is something I can test the MAF with my Multimeter on Park? Can it be anything to do with TPS? Is my ECU, for sure OK? since my car can idle fine now (just cause the ECU is something I was unable to take out of my car to look if fried)? Would the fact that I did a Coolant TB bypass effect any of the things i'm experiencing with accellerating (trying to do 2fast 2furious moves on the road). Any info is greatly appreciate it.

2kMaximusGLE

I do want to clean the MAF; just having a hard time finding the T15 Star screwdriver (I believe thats what it is) with a whole in the middle. I found it once in a bit kit but really don't need anymore bits except the main one to remove MAF. Again, I haven't done a Idle Learn; does that procedure only deal with where the idle is or can it effect my acceleration issue?

On another note. My intake that comes from front of car (not sure about the legit name for this peice) and connects to the Main intake (connects very close to rear Engine Mount cable, and main intake being the one with MAF, air filter and such) is currently disconnected. Why in the world would my air intake from front of car; is 1 inch short, to make the complete connection to main air intake; I HAVE NO FREAKEN CLUE. but would this cause any of my acceleration issue? I don't suspect so cause the peice has a big whole at the bottom of it (i'm sure its there to drop/drip water if its raining instead of putting into Main Intake/TB).

Want to put 4 fuses on the 4 pins going into ECU for IACV, some fuses for engine mounts. Any idea the amp fuse to use. I believe IACV is 6 max but engine mounts not sure. I'm probably going overboard but I like my maxima and want it to last for some time without breaking my bank of course.

I know I have many questions,

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

As far as losing HP, you're imagining. Your take-up will not be as tight because your motor mounts are disconnected, they are in a soft state by default, and will harden up when the engine rpm hits 2k. If you're worried about them, swap them out for manual transmission mounts. You'll have more vibration at idle, but it's not bad at all.

The ECU would not clear the SES if it failed the self test, so yes, it's fine.

Page EC-155 of the factory service manual gives a test procedure, and you'll find the link to the FSM stickied somewhere here.

Under normal driving conditions bypassing the throttle body coolant flow probably doesn't do much. Doing stupid **** you might notice a different, since engines these days depend on pretty constant intake air temperature.

Possibly.

No idea why someone would want to do this, other than being ham-fisted with something under the hood. Pick up a new part from an auto wrecker or something when you have a chance if you're worried about it.

I'd leave the motor mounts disconnected. As far as fusing the IACV, there is someone on the org that did this, and he posted the fuse sizes he used.

fje_A33

iTrader: (1)

I want to know if muffler for a 02-03 will fit a 00-01. Also where I can find one, I know I should post on buy/sale but I'm to new to post. If anyone has a stock muffler please pm me
Thanks

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

You can go to courtesyparts.com and compare part numbers. IIRC they're the same, at least in the aftermarket. Some don't fit 20th Anniversary Editions. On the previous page I posted a part number list if you want a Walker/NAPA exhaust from the catalytic converter on back.

shaks

iTrader: (15)

it's not that easy to replace exhaust manifolds (stock Nissan item) with headers (aftermarket stuff), you are looking at 6 to 12 hours of work - all depends on how mechanically inclined you are and what tools will be used.
Headers from Custom Maxima - the link you provided - are complete crap, you can find them on ebay for cheaper than that. The good brands would be Cattman (they do headers in batches and cost around 850), Hotshot (great quality, but company is long out of the business, you can find used ones though) and OBX (version 2 or 2.5 with equal length piping is counted as good alternative, sells for 350-400 on ebay).
OBX might require some modification to be done to your subframe, as they are not a perfect fit and O2 sensor bung needs to be relocated.

The question here is - do you want to spend that much money? Of course you will get better performance but will need tune afterwards. The cheapest option will be to gut the cats and install O2 non-fouler, that will most probably get rid of the code or install O2 simulator that will foul the system and cause SES light not to pop up.

You have to make a decision about that and almost any mechanic can gut your cats or you could do it on your own.
Do some search here on the forum using Search button on top and you will see how to do either of the things mentioned above.

shaks

iTrader: (15)

the 1320 code isn't necessarily the coils - it might be a number of things. See what it says on the computer as I was getting 1320 miscommunication between ecu and ignition center (or something similar to it), it also could be camshaft or crankshaft sensor, or ignition condenser. Did you change your spark plugs at the time of replacing coils?

Pilm

I recently had P0505 and after replacing the IACV the code went away. I did however have a blown chip in the ECU (driver mosfet for IACV) that I also had to replace. If you only replaced the IACV and the car holds idle, then I'd say that is proof your ECU is ok. However from what I've heard this is very unusual, that is, the reports I've heard basically say the ECU driver always fails when the IACV fails (shorts). So I wonder if you really had a bad IACV? Did you ohm out your old IACV? When I checked mine I found 3 good paths measured 22 ohms, and the bad path measured zero, so I know my IACV was bad. So you might want to ohm out your old IACV.

As far as Idle Relearn, Nissan manual says it's required, however I noticed my idle was already right on without doing the relearn. However I went ahead and did the relearn anyway, figuring it wouldn't hurt anything. The result was that nothing changed, so either the relearn didn't take or it just reset the idle to where it was already.

I also disconnected both front/back engine mounts and just taped over the connectors. I haven't really noticed any difference in idle vibration, so I plan to leave it disconnected. As far as your weird vibration, you didn't say where that occurred, was it at idle or under heavy/easy accel or cruising? BTW, since you only got voltage on one of your engine mounts, perhaps that indicates the other one is shorted, so you might want to check to see if its got a short? If it turns out you do have a short, then you've likely burned the NEC mosfet in the ECU. I think it would be a good idea to remove the ECU and examine it for damaged parts in any case, just get your hands on an 8mm wrench and you shouldn't have any problem getting it out.

5aprilc

Hi all, I posted a little while back about my P0430 code that poped up. So what I did was clear the code, and drive to see if it would come back. Well the SES light did indeed come back, but now instead of the P0430 code, I now have a P0420. Now i'm guessing that these two codes are related, and I am still not quite sure what to replace to fix my problem.

I was gonna just buy a performance pre-cat from Warpspeed and see if that does the job. Does anyone think this might be a good idea? If so, can some show me which one to get? I was confused by there website which one I needed.

Thank you,

Charlie

joshmachine

Hi Folks,
I recently found this problem in my 03 maxima 6 spd SE. When I am shifting to neutral from 6th gear at 60-70 mph, the car shuts off!!! this happened after i had parked my car for a month and then started to drive. It starts up all fine right away. While waiting at a signal recently, I found my idle rpm at 600. My mileage is low even before this happened @ 19 miles per gallon. Pls help!!!

Ryshea

I just baught a 2002 SE. Between the rear windshield and rear door it says "type S" I have yet to see another car with this badging. What does it mean and how come in all the pictures i see on this website i have not seen anything that resembles it?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It means someone put that sticker in the window. Take it off.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Is your check engine light on?

Does your check engine light bulb work?

Stop by an Advance Auto, Autozone, or Pep Boys, borrow their code reader, and post the codes they have pulled.

600 rpm is low, but not by much. Mileage also depends on driving habits and maintenance, and unless it's a sudden change it's hard to tell what that means.

joshmachine

Hello Homeyclaus,
Thanks for responding to my query.
Yes the check engine light works. It comes on only when the car shuts off. The car starts back up fine and it runs as if nothing had happened. But what can cause the car to shut off when i put it in neutral from cruising speed?

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

If it showed up at my shop I'd pull the codes, some don't turn on the light. Barring codes, I'd check the IACV per the instructions in the factory service manual first. Some models also have a swirl control valve, and I'd check that too.

arkangelgabriel

Hi you all! Hope everyone is having a great day. I got something here. Not a problem but a bother. When i turn right i can heae something like. a metal rod of so banging in the rear of the car. Got in the trunk while the wife drove and turned and pinpoint the noise to be coming from the driver side rear above the bumper. First i thought it was the muffler but the banging noise is not heavy so i tested and its not the muffler. Any advice? The little noise is getting on my nerves lol

arkangelgabriel

Ok problem solved. It was my 10mm deep socket that had dissapear a few weeks ago. Somehow found its way to the space inside the trunk between the bumper (insidr thr metal).

colin_1985

Hi, i just bought a 2000 Maxima SE 5 spd a few days ago and i have a few questions about some issues i am having with the lights. For the headlights, the Drivers side DRL works while the passenger side doesn't. Both low beams do not work, but both high beams do. I replaced both bulbs, checked fuses and relays. I noticed that it was missing the relay for headlight 1. would this cause the low beams not to work? Also after a quick search i figured it is probably the DRL module that is the issue with the DRL. Any ideas?

Also the previous owner had installed clear LEDs in the rear turn signals, they worked but flashed fast so i replaced the bulbs with new correct bulbs and now the signals don't work at all. What do you think is the problem....

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you are missing a relay, get one. You have to have both relays. The relays act like a switch, connecting battery power that comes from a fuse to the DRL module. One relay does the left side and the other one does the right side.

As for the turn signals, I am not sure. Do the bulbs light up but not blink or do they not even light up? Double check that the new bulbs you put in are actually good. Then there is the flasher unit. If the previous owner put in an electronic flasher for the led lamps, going back to incandesent lamps may have burned it out.

spock

iTrader: (5)

It's so cool that you rode around in your trunk and found the socket!

colin_1985

Fixed the rear turn signals, was a bad ground at the bulb.

As for the headlights, i got another relay and put it in, but that didn't change anything. Still only one DRL working, no low beams, but both high beams work.

L36

iTrader: (4)

My ABS throws code 35, left rear wheel sensor.
Left meaning drivers side, right?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yes, left is driver's side.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. Gonna clean it first. If no dice, replace.

arkangelgabriel

Lol yeah it was fun. Found the trunk release from the inside of the trunk hahahha

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Your DRL is probably bad, they have a tendency to fail. I think somone posted a thread on repairing them, but I won't swear to that.

edit
I searched for daylight running module and found several threads where people had opened the the DRL module and found bad solder connections. Found a thread that had photos originally but the photos don't display any more.

dannyperrault

hey i got an 01 maxima. i had a problem where my car wouldnt idle at all just died if i didnt give it gas. had a P0505 iacv code, replaced the iacv, cleaned TB and had the iac sent out to get the idle set. but i still have a rough idle dropping from 500-250 and rising for about 15 seconds. i also have a bad cat, could this cause that? any ideas what my problem is? oh and after that idle problem goes away it idles at about 800 rpm constant.

5aprilc

Hi all, I posted awhile back about my SES light that I got, I read the code its a P0420. I ended up buying a Y pipe from Warpspeed for my CA emissions car, so hopefully this fixing my problem. I'll post back with an update on the issue.

NTMastro

Hey guys,

Just traded in my old Acura and got a 2001 Maxima GLE w/ a spoiler


I am thinking about getting HIDs for it, how are these?
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit

Also, I need the h4 hi/low beam right?
Should I get the 55w for only 10 more dollars?
It says "Relay harness is not needed for High / Low kits as they come with a relay harness." So I guess I won't need that...
Should I get any of the other extras? Error eliminator, adaptor cables, mounting brackets?

Shipping sucks at $20.


Also tint... I live in Mass so the law is 35%. Does anyone have any pictures of a black Maxima with 35% tint? Want to see if it is worth it.

Here's what I have now after a wash and wax today.


Thanks guys.

defiance

iTrader: (1)

Hey 5th Gen veterans I got one for you.
I recently had a bad gas cap and a P1440 (Small leak)
The old cap was done all the rubber seals around were brittle
and it didn't seal well. Doesn't make the hissing sound when you open it..

I have since replaced it with a New stant cap and reset the computer
The new one seals alot better, goes on nice and tight and it make the hissing
sound when i put gas in.Seems like everything is sealing correctly because the system is building pressure, but the damn P1440 just keeps coming back every 50 miles or so.

Any ideas what i should check next ?

colin_1985

Thanks,

I ended up taking out the DRL and soldering a few spots, then replaced the headlight plugs and wiring and now everything works!!!

2000maximaguyinaz

Hey guys I am currently having issues with my gauge cluster usually at night when the lights are on all the gauges stop working and the odometer scrambles anyone with a similar problem know the fix ?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

You probably have a small leak in a hose somewhere in the EVAP system. You'll need to inspect it thoroughly yourself or have someone do it for you.

Do a search for "EVAP system leak" to see what common areas for hose leaks are located. I think the supply hose to the EVAP canister is one regular location.