It is probably one of the several sheet metal heat shields used on the engine and exhaust system. Little petty annoyances like that are tough to find.

 

Hey fellow Max drivers I have a 2000 SE and my ac compressors pbearings make the pulley freeze which in turn burned and popped the belt I just got put on (i believe it was a 43.5 inch belt) I have a 38 inch belt would I be able to bypass my compressor with that perfectly or would it be too long? I already looked up in the forums and everyone says 36 but my autozone's customer service sucks so when I ask to order it they refuse... also when I try to accelerate my car slows down would that be from the belt or is that another issue I'm gonna hate my life for?.... I really just wanna drive really fast in my baby

 

Does anyone know what the normal operating O2 sensors(all) should be? I'm getting the running rich code and car cranks about 5 seconds before it starts, sometimes takes less time. Car lost power and seems to struggle sometimes when I give it gas and also stutters a little on idle. Already changed the fuel pump and checked the starter, alternator, and battery. They all checked out good. Any help is appreciated.

 

well I tried the 38inch belt too long so I ordered the 36 from Autozone hopefully I can get it tomorrow and put it on

 

No compressor in this heat? Good luck to you.

 

When I turn on the AC the car starts to vibrate a little bit up front and gets a bit noisy. Is this a blower motor issue? If not, what part is it and how much does it usually run for?

 

When you turn on the AC, your compressor kicks in...this is likely what you're hearing and feeling. It's normal. You may also notice your tachometer move a slight amount at the same time. Also normal.

Same thing happens when you turn the front windshield defroster on as well.

 

To add,

Your blower motor is behind the glovebox and is what blows air through the vents. If you feel the vibration is abnormal then it may be an issue with your compressor, possibly the pulley bearing.

 

Check the FSM or do some searching on here as someone posted a handy pic that shows each O2 sensors location.

 

Sorry I mistyped my last question. I meant the normal operating voltages for each O2 sensor. I know where they are jus need the specs.

 

I believe the voltage ranges are listed in the FSM.

-edit, checked and yes voltage ranges are listed. Please get into the habit of checking the FSM before posting.

 

Hey everyone. New to the forums, but not to cars or Nissans in general. My question is this: why is the clutch such a pain to bleed? Had to replace my clutch master yesterday. I couldnt for the life of me get the air out of the line.

I finally had to get a pressurized container, hook it up to my compressor, and backfeed the fluid up through the bleeder on the slave until the new master cylinder was full. Is there an easier way to get it bled, aside from replacing all the crap Nissan has in there with 1 line from the master to the slave? Thanks.

 

Hi guys,

Got my 2002 SE three months ago. So far ive been rear ended, and yesterday some drunk jerk hit my PARKED car on the drivers side door and didn't leave a note. I picked up a drivers side door from a 2001 GXE at the junk yard. I have searched the forums for the parts compatibility and couldnt find anything. My question is will the drivers side door from a 5th gen fit on a 5.5 gen?

Also I have a custom interior with two buttons installed near the window controls that open the trunk and gas door. And two 6 in speakers mounted to the door where the little cubby space used to be. Does anyone have any advice before i get into it this weekend?

Thanks

 

Yes, the doors are the same.

 

Thank you, that gives me hope.

 

Hey guys, just bought my first maxima and pretty much broke it right off the bat! Here's the story.

2000 SE with 150k on it, 5sp manual transmission. Was installing an injen cold air intake with my friend who mostly knows his stuff. We accidentally had the MAF sensor on backwards at first, and went to test it. Revved it, obviously it didn't sound right, and then we figured out the problem and put it on correctly. As far as I can see, the intake is 100% properly installed now.

Problem is, it runs like total crap now. It struggles to get moving after start up (jerking and chugging), I have no acceleration or power, pretty much can't get above 60km/h. But there are no engine lights...

I'm wondering, if we damaged the MAF during the backwards mess-up, wouldnt I have engine lights? If so, do I need to simply reset the ECU or something similar? Or replace the MAF altogether?

I know this has been asked 4000 times, because I've browsed the hell out of it on here. I couldn't get a definitive answer for my exact symptoms however, so I figured I'd post here.

Any help?

 

Try cleaning it first. MAF areosol cleaner at the parts store

 

I'll try this tonight. So I just remove the MAF and give it a spray, that's it? Sorry, I'm basically retarded when it comes to engine components without my friend around, haha. Learning though!!

 

In need of a new Vais Solenoid as mine is leaking (car has just over 100k).

Searched and searched this forum...

Tried NWP plate, HATED IT -> if someone wants this MPG / low end torque killer you can PM me for it free (and maybe give me your vais solenoid)

Since Dave B is no longer a contact where can i get this part for under 100?

Ebay (this is all I could find)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2012-Ni...#ht_500wt_1287




Courtesy Nissan:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14956w-...ml?cPath=1956&


Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

Try Rusty Myler @ Gunn Nissan in Texas.

Or www.nissanpartsasap.com. Call them, their shipping calculator is wonky.

 

Still about $140 + shipping...

How can this be that expensive? With most going bad eventually you would think they would easier to find & cheap, Rockauto doesn't even supply it.

 

Go ask aftermarket parts dealers why they don't make a very certain specific part?

There are plenty other dealer-only parts that are much more expensive. It's the unfortunate truth.

 

I have a 2001 maxima S.E 3.0. Lately when I go to slow down or if I'm sitting at an intersection my engine cuts out. Wondering if it could be anything else but the Idle control. Recently put in a new fuel filter and pump. Also mechanic is getting codes that switch from "Engine Running Lean" to "Engine Running Rich" in a 5 min time frame. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated

 

I just bought an 02 Maxima. The A/C wasn't very cool and I've found that only one of the radiator fans runs (the passenger side). The other does nothing. I ordered a replacement fan shroud and put it in with no change. I tested the three relays by connecting to the battery and testing for continuity and all are good. I followed the FSM throughout the testing.

It seems to me that all that is left is the wiring or the connector. I know nothing about what to do if the connector/wiring is bad... Any one else had this issue? Any thoughts/advice?

 

Got a multimeter? Follow the current and see where it stops. If it's at the connector then just bypass it with a jumper.

 

hi peeps,

i had the pdf for maxima qx service manual, but pc died and no lost it and cant find another free one!!

any help would be great
thanks in advance

terry

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

 

Anyone happen to know if the Valve Solenoid (14955-8J10A) is the same for all 3.5 L engine? I have an 2002 Maxima SE and was wondering if i could get one from a 6th gen or 7th gen...

Thx

Picture shown in link: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-solenoid.html

 

It only turns on when it reaches a certain temp and/or when the A/C is on.? Are you overheating?

 

Luckily I'm not overheating, but the a/c is on and the passenger side fan is running at high speed while the drivers side does nothing.

I do have a multimeter and after looking at the wiring diagrams in the FSM, I know where to test. I'll do it when I get home today. I think it is the culprit. Doing a jumper is easy?

 

If it's a bad connector then you can splice in a new connector, or just connect the wires together directly, without the connector.

 

I had a similar situation last week. I swapped the fan motors until I was able to get a new whole radiator fan assembly delivered to me. My thinking was to have the primary fan functional (driver's side) until I could replace the whole thing. Strangely enough, when I completed the swap and put the assembly back in the car, both fans were working as they should. I'm not sure what happened there but I have a new assembly sitting at home for the time being.

 

Excessive gas tank pressure
So I had my evap canister replaced about 2 years ago and have had no related CEL's since. However, when I go to the gas station to fill up the safety triggers on the pumps go off and sometimes gas even comes out of the fuel filler. HELP!! If this is as simple as needing a new gas cap i'll poop myself.

 

Check in the FSM if there's something to look into, otherwise I'd remove the fuel tank and inspect it.

 

Hello Maxland,

New owner of a 02 se with 145k on her. It is an automatic in good condition. I plan on doing a few things:

- cleaning the headlights
- clear rear and front corners (which bulbs should I use)
- 18" g35 coupe wheels
- lowering it on h&r's (is it ok to do without new struts)
- to reduce body roll and the "fluffiness" should I install a rear swaybar, or strut tower brace? Which is least expensive?
- thinking about buying one of those precut tint sets and applying it myself....anyone ever done that?
- any other tips or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Also, any members on here from or close to Buffalo?

 

Muffler is clunking on uneven roads... Haven't crawled under to check but I know it's the damn hangers. What's the part # for these?

 

i have an 02 6 spd SE. i bought it brand new and it has 138k miles on it now. I have never encountered any oil leaks, and i park it on my concrete driveway, so i know its not leaking. i change the oil faithfully when due....i now run synthetic in it.

What are data dots? i know about the high theft because of the headlights, but i dont recall seeing anything about a recall for data dots. really u cant stop a thief, if they really want it so instead of a club, i have full coverage even tho its 10 yrs old....lol

 

i have started having problems with my 02 SE 6 spd. i noticed that there seem to be a loss of power. it had a hard time getting over 3k rpm in 4th gear when accelerating. it also seems to lunge and skip at times when starting off until i get to about 2500 rpm.

i have a strange rattle that happens when im mashing the gas pedal and the car is moving. it stops when i take my foot off the gas or if i put it in neutral. it sounds like a lot of baby rattles.

my check engine light came on yesterday. i took it to two different Autozones' and the fault codes that came out were P0011 and P0021 which are Intake valve timing control banks 1 and 2. the guy said it was my crankcase sensors. from the sounds and the loss of power i was thinking it was my catalytic converters....does anyone have any ideas before i spend money on sensors or new cats????


Thanks for any help

Kevin

 

Hanger bracket might have rusted off the b-pipe. Just have a shop weld it back on. More likely the issue than the rubber hangers.

 

Fuel gauge is off...Started after winter time.. Learned the hard way and ran out of gas on the expressway. Fluctuates constantly and is never giving accurate readings...Any experiences and/or fixes?