if u dont mind me askin why are u looking for a new tranny?][/quote]thanks for the info. i am looking for a new because the one in my car just went out on me.... i was driving in the highway and it just locked on me and spilled all the tranny fluid and burnt it..... and the tranny is locked. i have to have the clutch engaged in order to push it......

 

I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima with 200,000 hard miles and still runs like a champ. I live in the northeast and when temperatures get below freezing, I get a loud noise likes its bottoming out over bumps. This happens only when below freezing and as I drive and car warms up it isnt as bad.

While driving it happens when I go over a bump or when there is a depression in the road. It also feels like a small vibration in the front right wheel. I am figuring there must be water in some part that freezes causing this problem but can't find it. I am about to start a remove and replace campaign but wondering if anybody else had the same problem and point me in the right direction.

 

So for the past few weeks my 2000 SE (140K on the odometer this week) has been having a couple of issues. At first, my SEL came on, referencing a failure with the MAF sensor circuit, along with a failed O2 sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2). The car would always fail to start first thing in the morning. It turned over and came to life, but then sputtered and died out. The RPM would jump really high then stutter back to 0 and the engine would die. This only happened the first time I tried to start it each day, after that I had no problems till the next day. If I feather the gas pedal while it is starting, it keeps the car running. The other issue which I noticed about the same time is that the idling has been rough. Normally my car sits around 800 RPM while idling, but what has been happening is that goes to around 600-500 RPM, and it feels like the car is choking/sputtering. It usually corrects itself within moments, and doesn't go below 500 RPM at any time. The problem isn't evident all the time, there is no degree of consistency. This problem has yet to make my car stall out. I replaced the MAF and the O2 sensor with OEM parts, and my SEL has gone away, however the problem I was having remains. There are no codes being thrown at present. The final issue I have been noticing is my fuel economy has dropped by a fairly decent amount. Where I live we have seen a rash of single digit mornings, in the neighborhood of 8 degrees or so, which I was thinking could be the culprit, but I am getting a tad worried. I have been reading, trying to ascertain the cause, but I'm at a loss. Too many possibilities. I was hoping that someone here has either seen this, or had this happen personally, and could give me a prod in the right direction. I could take it in to a mechanic to get it checked out, but I really don't want to do that unless I am left with no alternative. I checked my spark plugs, and they appear to be fine, I replaced them around 15,000 miles ago. There was no oil on them either, as I have been told that's an issue with this model. Any ideas? I appreciate any advice I can get on this matter.

 

Alright,

I have a CA spec 2001 I30t with a hard starting issue. I've taken care of some issues and got some new ones in return. It started after I got numerous codes (P0740, P0139, P0306, P1320, P0138, P0160). I started with just the coil thinking it would clear the O2 sensors codes (it didn't), but the car started hard afterward (turns over 5-10 seconds). I replaced the necessary O2 sensors, but the hard start continues. I still have the P0740 code, but I had that before with no hard issues (besides, it's a transmission code). For the last 20k miles, I've just dealt with this. Now, the car occasionally dies right after start up and the car posted a P0430 code. Searching says this is the O2 sensor or cat. Autozone's code reader also says large vacuum leak, rich AF ratio, ignition system malfunction, and faulty cat. The best guess I have at this point is the coil I bought is garbage and it's slowly making things worse. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Slim

 

P0138, P0139, P0160 are all O2 sensor codes and wouldn't be causing hard starting.

P0406 is the EGR Sensor circuit. The EGR valve is supposed to be closed for starting, when idling, low & high engine coolant temperature and a few other times. But if the EGR valve is bad and stuck open, it would be like a bad vacuum leak and lean out the fuel mixture.

P0306. If you are wondering if the coil you put on cyl 6 is bad, swap it to cyl 2 or 4 and see if you get a code for that cylinder.

P1320. This could be the sensor on the crankshaft pulley, CKPS(REF). More common is that it is multiple ignition coils failing. If you search, you will find many threads where people with the 1320 code replaced all the coils to fix this.

Another possible hard start cause is the ECTS, engine coolant temperature sensor. It does not throw a code and is more noticable in cold winter weather. Basically if the sensor is reporting a higher temperature than it should, the ECU sends an accordingly leaner fuel mixture, exactly opposite of what a cold engine needs. You can check it with an ohmmeter without removing it from the car.

 

Hi, i have a 2001 maxima 5spd MT with a stage 2 clutch and fidanza flywheel. i live in NYC area and over the past two weeks we had really cold weather. as i start the car warm it up and attempt to shift it into gear it wont go into gear 1-5 and reverse would not engage. after a few minutes i get into gear but still has hard time allowing me to do so. after i drive for about 5-10 minutes it disappear all together and it engages like it should. anyone else had this happen?

 

I think you misread my problem. I never had a P0406 code. I cleared all the codes, but the hard start issue continued. I replaced the #6 coil, but question the integrity of the new one. Maybe my question was too long and misleading? I'll investigate the ECTS, but it seems odd that it would start acting up right after I replaced the coil pack. Thanks for the feedback though

Slim

 

P0406 is a definite my bad. How I changed P0430 around is something I'll never know.

One bad coil isn't going to cause hard starting. It may cause P1320, especially if you have another weak coil, but more likely you will get the P030x code. Somewhat more remote is the crankshaft sensor on the crankshaft pulley by the oil filter. This sensor tells the ECU when the engine is at TDC. If this sensor fails, the ECU can figure out TDC from the flywheel crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor to start the engine.

 

Hi everyone i am new here but not new to the maxima,i have a 2000 max se with the 5spd standard and it just turned 400,000.
My question is:I believe she has blown a head gasket and would like to know if the automatic motors and the standard motors will interchange(is the crank in the automatic drilled for the pilot bearing)My friend had an accident with his and i can get the motor for free(140,000)on it so i am wondering weather i should change it or fix mine.
thanks for any help in advance

 

I got three codes popping up all in 100 miles of owning this car.

P1211 TCS C/U Function
P0430 Two Way Catalyst System Bank 2
P1614 Chain of Immu-key

Funny thing is, I have paperwork showing that this car passed smog on January 24th. I do not believe this cat went bad in 5 days. I have a 30 day "you buy parts we do labor free" warranty deal with this dealership and I intend on using it. But I do not feel I should have to pay for a new cat if they said it passed.. am I in the right here?

I have no idea what the other two are.

Oh, and the gas gauge only reads and quarter of a tank no matter what...so a ASE mechanic friend of mine suggested maybe a computer going bad as well....

thoughts?

 

The Haynes Manuel says code P0171, fuel injection system function (bank1)lean side. Does this mean the O2 sensor is bad, if so, is it rear or front? How do I find out? 2000 Max. GXE.

 

My first thought is to get your money back.

P0430 is a code for the Bank 1 pre-cat, which is towards the firewall. There is an O2 sensor monitoring the input and another monitoring the output of the pre-cat. When the voltage difference between the 2 O2 sensors becomes too much - code P0430.

Possible Causes:
Warm-up three way catalyst
Exhaust tube
Intake air leaks
Injectors
Injector leaks
Spark plug
Improper ignition timing

P1211 is a code for the brake anti-lock system, ABS/TCS.
Malfunction is detected when:
ECM receives incorrect voltage from ABS/TCS control unit continuously,
TCS operation (Fuel cut) continues for an abnormally long time.

Possible Causes
ABS/TCS control unit
TCS related parts (Refer to brakes section of service manual.)

P1614 - I couldn't find any info on this code. Get the car re-scanned and see if this is the actual code.

As for the gas gauge, it could be the sending unit in the gas tank, it could be the gauge in the dash or it could be a wiring problem in between the 2. there is a self diagnostic that you can run on the dash gauges. Your ASE mechanic buddy should have that.

My second thought on all this - see if you can get get another car or your money back.

 

we cleared the codes and none of them popped up since (been 8 hours of driving and running errands) So maybe it is a bad read? I meant 1612 not 14. Unfortunately I am pretty sure there is no cool off period for buying a used car from a dealership in Ca. I can get the smog stuff done for free if I feel like threatening the hole in the wall place with the BAR and CARB, but it will get ugly.

 

P1612 is the security system NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) involving the chip in the ignition key. It can be the chip in the key becoming weak, the NATS module antenna failing of the key needs to be re-programmed to the car.

If the codes cleared and haven't come back, that's good. But that is also scary. Things that pop up like that makes you wonder. Hopefully it was just a one time thing.

 

I was talking to my buddy and he thinks that the codes popping up and the gas gauge reading quarter tank all the time is the same issue. a bad connection under the passenger seat or something. He is very knowledgeable about cars so I trust his opinion. I just want to get this thing purring like a kitten. If I do happen to have a bad cat I will just get it replaced when I am on vacation in Wyoming.

 

I have a 2003 maxima which has had no leaks of any kind until now... currently 107,000 miles.

I just switched from dino to mobil 1 full synth at the last oil change about 3K miles ago. I changed oil and filter to mobil, then drove 500 miles, then changed again to clear out any gunk.

I noticed a small pool of oil under the car today, and crawled under to scope it out... ZOMG!! oil everywhere at the back of the pan, soaked from the oil pan back.

I checked my oil level, and it isn't even showing on the dipstick... WTF!!

As far as I can tell it is leaking from the pan, but how could that much oil disappear that fast... I park on my driveway at night, any leaking would be noticed immediately... and I just noticed it today.

Any suggestions (besides fill it back up with oil... LOL) ???

 

Get the 2000 Maxima FSM and get the procedures for testing the problem parts.

 

Already got one ordered. Should be here by Monday.

 

The FSM? Its free at the link in my signature.

 

Probably leaking while driving as well.

 

bad rear main seal....

 

Maybe it was a bad installation? Did you reuse the crush washer on the drain plug? It could have broken causing it to leak a lot. I would start from the top and work your way down. Clean it all off with brake clean so you can see where the leak is coming from. Check valve covers, oil cooler seal, upper and lower oil pan, rear main, and obviously the drain plug. People have noticed leaks when switching from dyno to full synthetic because the oil molecules are smaller(correct me if im wrong) and will make leaks known but I doubt that in your case.

 

Hello,
I have a 2002 nissan maxima with 106K miles. Recently, had a radiator leak and i replaced the radiator and thermostat(aftermarket OE specs). After this replacement, when my car warms up and the cooling fan turns ON, it keeps running all the time when my car is running irrespective of the weather condiitons. Also, if I turn the ingition OFF and start the car back again, I fan doesn't turn ON till the car warms up. Please suggest me what to check on this issue?

 

Have you ensured the engine has been bled properly? For a long time?


Also - OEM thermostat. Not "aftermarket with OEM specs"... OEM.

 

I did bleed the coolant line properly and it is am aftermarket thermostat with OEM specs. I will try replacing it with a OEM thermostat this weekend and will post back if I see any issues again.

 

so how, exactly, did you ensure the system was bled?

 

Hey guys i needed some adviced on how to fix the p0507 code on my 02 maxima.

Im going to briefly describe what let to this code, When i had bought the car it had the codes p0340 and p0300 and the check engine was flashing.

I first replaced the camshaft sensor and that took care of the p0340 code. So after a month of having the other code p0300 i decided to buy new spark plug(ngk Laser platinum) and the rear valve cover(from a 04 maxima). While i was putting everything back together i noticed the throttle body real dirty so i decided to clean it up with throttle body cleaner and i also cleaned the butterfly part. Unfortunatly i cleaned it by opening it with my hand since i had the throttle body off the car.

After installing everything back together i decided to erase the code p0300 and after half hour driving i got the p0507, I erased and got it back again.

I did some reading an some said the ecm had to be replaced, others said it needed to be reprogramed. But most of those post were old like 3 or 5 yrs ago posts.

So im wondering has any one found a solution to this problem?

Any help will be appreciated by the newbie.

 

I actually bought one of the dealer service manuals haha.. oh well paper copy will do great too.

Update on my ride. All is well and codes have not popped up since. I have driven in 200+ miles as well. I need to find a deal on a lowering springs, struts, and control arms .

Thanks for all the help!

 

Ok first Nissan Maxima 2000 se 155000. Picked it up for 3700 car had no damage of any kind. Carfax shows never been in any wreck nothing i can see either. Ran little rough when we first looked cleaned up alot. Vehicle shows coils replaced at 120000 nothing else follows maintenance wise. Im going to guess slight front end noise over bumps is struts or other joint that wears on these cars. Little help needed on what oges on these. I also noticed little screach if you will on start but not always not a chirp for most part and goes away very fast after warm up less than a minute or two. Belt or idler pulley or both? Last question seems little rough but no miss like the MAF or o2 is bad. Idle however is pretty smooth once warmed up. Suggestions? No codes of any kind at any time so far. Runs great Im very impressed with the workmanship. Seeing as this is a 13 year old car and Im a Mopar guy with a 300 2012 and 2011 Ram.

 

Have 2002 max. Attached the shroud underneath the front but still have noise could it be the shocks or somethingunder the hood?? i have 228 k on it so I drive a lot. Anything else I can check??

 

You have to do better on your description. What kind of noise? Scraping, screeching, squealing, scraping, knocking, tapping, buzzing, vibrating, thumping or what?

When does it occur? when stopped, when accelerating, when turning, when stopping, when going over bumps, when driving off a cliff or what?

 

so im driving down the road in my new (to me) maxima and the light in front of me turns red. i press the clutch to coast to the light then my engine shuts off. this happens everytime within 5-7 seconds of me pressing in the clutch. it idles fine when im just sitting. any ideas??? really sucks because i just bought this thing and i wanna drive it!!!!!

 

Hey guys... thanks for the advice on the oil leak. Turned out to be the gasket behind the oil cooler assy. Easy fix.


Another question...

The suspension is starting to get mushy on this car, does it just need struts, or can the springs be bad at 107K mi?

I want to maintain a comfortable ride more than anything.

I've read quite a few recommendations on the struts but most posts seem geared toward folks who want race cars rather than comfy sedans. Anyone have a recommendation?

Should I install a strut tower bar/crossmember while I'm at it? Does it really make a difference in the mushy feel while steering?

Thank You!

 

I know this is a longshot but check it out...

Get a flashlight, roll the seat back, and get down under there near the pedals. I'm going to bet that a wiring harness fell out of place and a wire has been rubbing against the pedal arm. Over time the insulation wore off and whenever the pedal arm makes contact, it grounds the wire and kills the car. (if it were from the ignition switch bundle.)

Happened on a friend's Miata once with the horn wire. Every time he put in the clutch, BEEEP!

Although you say "new to me." Did it do this during the test drive?

 

Your struts are worn out. Somewhere between 80 to 100K struts need to be replaced. If you want to have the car handle a little stiffer, get KYB struts. They will make the ride a little stiffer than the stock ride since the car won't sway and roll as much as the original ride. A result of a firmer ride is that you may feel the bumps a little bit more.

If all you want is the factory ride, a strut tower bar isn't necessary. The bar helps when you are doing hard turns on rough road. If you don't drive like this, you may not be able to tell the difference.

The springs should be OK. They do slowly wear out but should last till maybe 500K. If you ever notice that the car does not sit level, this would be one indication that the springs are failing.

 

What does the engine idle at? I should be around 650 - 700 rpm.

 

In reference to this, my car has not stalled for several days, but the weather has been warmer. I can feel it hesitate slightly when it starts in the morning though. The idling is still rough at times, however. And my fuel economy isn't as terrific as it once was. No SEL at this time. Any ideas?

 

Buy a new OEM MAF sensor and while you are messing around by the intake make sure you have a nice clean filter and clean up your throttle body.

(also consider bypassing the coolant passage on your IACV)

PS - if you want a free (known good working) MAF PM me

 

hi- newbie here- 02 Maxima (78000 miles) with ABS light on. Looking for thoughts on dealer recommendation. Says my left front sensor has failed due to corrosion. Corrosion also requires me to replace knuckle, hub, bearing & control arm (and re-align) for a total of $1350. I know I've had an ABS sensor replaced in past and don't remember it needing all those parts.

 

I would take some pictured of this. But, it's all fairly easy job. Although, a failed knuckle due to corrosion seems a bit extreme.

There's a member selling ABS sensors for cheap in the classifieds, LCA's can also be had for 150$, bearings for a little less, and the knuckle can be purchased with the bearing already intact, from what I remember.

It all depends on how much you are comfortable working on your car. I would first remove the front wheels and visually inspect what's really going on up front.

Some dealers are OK, most are rip-off's.

I couldn't believe they were charging 500$ for front and rear brakes last time I went. I go in to humor them and have them change my coolant, and they usually look at me a little strange due to all the modifications my car has (not many, but more than usual I'm sure).