It may have been electrical. The bad battery may have sucked the voltage levels down below 12 volts and caused the car to shut off. This happens when the alternator goes bad and the battery becomes discharged.

 

So I Just bought a 2001 maxima SE with 120k miles on it for $2000. It does have some problems but I'm willing to fix them.

First: The guy I bought it from told him his mechanic said it had o2 sensor/catalytic converter problems. The check engine light is on but all I get is P1706 (PNP switch?! 5 speed?) The car smells like rotten eggs from outside after driving it for 10-15 minutes. (premium gas but not red lining).

Also the front struts need to be replaced and I may as well do the rears. How are KYB Gr2's?

Lastly the lower radiator support is pretty rusty and I may as well replace it soon, when I have the money.

What do you guys think?

 

The MT does have a neutral position switch...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/32006m-...ml?cPath=1956&

KYB Gr2's are similar in performance to OEM. I've heard good things.

Rotten egg smell is from the bad catalytic converters. You might want to get that fixed fairly soon as they have been known to cause engine failures.

Make sure you purchase an OEM lower radiator support or you'll be doing it again.

Other than that it looks like a good buy.

 

Guys how should I drop my car and I live n a pot hole city lik NYC

 

Guys how should I drop my car and I live NYC

 

http://shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

Might want to hit the regional forum to talk to other NYC'ers, but if your not doing coilovers you may want to consider a modest drop like H&R or Tein H-Techs if potholes are an issue. You can always post questions in djfreestyle's suspension thread as well. I'm no expert, but he is.

 

I'd go with H&R in NYC.

I took my Maxima with Eibach drop up to New York once, and the springs on the front are okay, maybe a little stiff which makes it a bit rough on bumpy roads, and the springs on the back are too soft, so on high speed "wavy" roads, the rear bounces up and down too much. I'd also make sure I go with Tokico Illumina struts. I cheaped out on the struts and got GR2s and wish I had spent a few more bucks to have adjustable compression rates...

 

I think you should create another thread an hour from now......

 

 

My service engine soon light is on and im wondering if this could be because i have a bad coil 2000 maxi runs ok just when i start it it will turn off but then i restart it and i will be fine so im not sure if its becauseof my coils or spark plugs and are the expensive???

 

The PepBoy's auto stores will check the MIL codes for free, that would be the first order of business. They'll even tell you what the codes mean. When you get the codes post them here, there are some pretty sharp individuals on the forum who can help with diagnosis.

 

Hey he just trying to boost up his cred level on the org. Gunning for level 100 Maybe.

 

I have a 2000 Nissan maxima while driving my car dies out I had it taken to the Nissan dealership they told me I needed a new IACV and my ECM was burnt out I recently got a new IACV and had my ECM shipped for repair if I place the new IACV and my old but repaired ECM back in would I still have to have it relearn?

 

I have a 2000 Nissan maxima while driving my car dies out I had it taken to the Nissan dealership they told me I needed a new IACV and my ECM was burnt out I recently got a new IACV and had my ECM shipped for repair if I place the new IACV and my old but repaired ECM back in would I still have to have it relearn?

 

yes

 

I didn't! Idle after replacing IACV with OEM part and repairing ECU was perfect, didn't need to relearn anything. Didn't surprise me either, the OEM Hitachi IACV's are very much identical, and the ECU was the same, so what's to relearn!

 

The rotten egg smell can also be because the engine is running rich. That's what starts it. One of the issues with the computer-driven engines is that they're only as good as the data the computer receives.

If the MAF isn't sending the right air mass, or the intake temp sensor is not reading right, or the O2 sensors are, as a group, sending the wrong values to the computer, the mix will be off. If only one O2 sensor is unsound, the computer can detect that, since one of the measurements won't jive with the others. More than one, and the odds of detecting it get worse pretty quickly.

 

yeah. better to be safe with it

 

The reason the dealer will call for this to be done is because the idle takes very finite adjustments from the ECU and even if it "feels" like its idling perfect (no surge....etc) it may not be spec.

Even if you think your car is idling well, once you have a successful relearn you will notice how much better it idles.

 

how can I tap into my 2000 i30 Bose amp and hook up aftermarket amp?

 

Need some advice from seasoned Maxima owners. I tried calling Dave B today to order OEM parts and ask for guidance as suggested by numerous .org threads Ive read. Turns out he now works for Honda now, but they will connect you to Dave Berren, which was a bait and switch tactic I dont want to fall for... He sucked.

I got about 150,xxx miles on the max, bought it less than a year ago and I put 25,000 miles a year on my car. I had new inner/outer tie rods, lower control arms , and sway bar end links put on the car less than 5000 miles ago. I still want the car to handle better that it does, but I don't want to drop it more than an 1.5 inches because I drive it for work and I drive in all sorts of conditions.

I figure new shocks, springs and tires should do the trick. This is where I need you help... I want the adjustable Koni shocks even if you have to take them off the rears to adjust them, they will be mine. I dont know what springs to get though because every other person with an opinion on the matter says the Eibachs are too stiff and then they blow after a while. I dont want to replace the shocks or springs for at least 4-5 years, but I do want better handling and more responsive steering while staying within the 1.5 inch max drop height.

No one seems to talk about the Koni Yellows anymore and when they did it was getting the 4th gens to work on the 5th gens. Nowadays they make them for the 5th gen so the threads kinda ended there. Anyone who has ridden on them I would really like to hear your input on what you had to replace other than shock and springs.

If anyone has the part numbers of the following items it would help , but so far I have to find:

x2 Front Bump stops - OEM
x2 Front Dust boots - OEM
X2 Rear Bump stops - OEM
x2 Rear Dust boots - OEM (one of mine is shredded)
x2 Front strut mounts - OEM (these the same as top hats? Iz confused)
x2 Front mount bearings - OEM
x4 Springs - ?????? NEED YOUR HELP PLEASE !!!
Am I missing anything?

Lastly I am shelling out the $ for Michelin Pilot Sports (stock size on stock rims), but I am getting cupping on the inner tire tread in the rear so I want to address the suspension first to see if that's the root cause before I blow through some expensive rubber. I just hope the axle is not bent or something like that.

If you had to overhaul your 150K suspension in the hopes of better handling what would you replace? and what springs would you use? Would the stock dust covers fit over the aftermarket springs? Why did the doppleganger of Dave B try to sell me insulators for $73.00 a piece?

 

All the suspension info you need...

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

 

Alright, so I recently purchased an '02 maxima, however I was informed that it had the motor and 6 speed tranny swapped from an '04 maxima.

I'm getting a few CEL codes for o2 and Evap, but right now I'm mostly worried about the transmission.

When the car is off I can move the shifter easily into any gear, but once I turn the car on it takes more force to get it into any gear, and reverse is a total pain to get into... I bled the clutch and adjusted the pedal. Still Hard. I checked the bushing at the shifter and there is a lot of play (probably like 1/4") in which the lever can move without moving the shift cable.

Also Third gear grinds, so I am assuming that syncro is going.. But do you think the linkage is binding? the Bushings are worn? transmission is shot? What parts are different between the '02 and '04 transmissions? Are they exactly the same? and what about the VQ35DE? Is that exactly the same as the '02 one that was replaced? Gets a little confusing when I'm looking for parts.

Thanks.

 

Hello. I changed the starter in my 2001 GLE. The new one works fine. Upon first start upon changing starter, no spark went to plugs. The starter did it's job, i.e. turned, but there is no spark. Checked the plugs using a DC Meter, and there was no current going to plugs. Took out an actual spark plug and upon cranking, there was no visible spark coming from plugs. The new starter works just fine, it turns the motor, in case anyone was wondering, but there is absolutely no spark. This never happened before. All I did was change the starter. I touched nothing else in the process. Everything is hooked up fine just as it was before I touched it. Even sprayed started fluid in the intake and no start. This assures me that there is no spark. This car is my only source of transportation, so if anyone can help me out ASAP, it would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
-Omar

 

This is a situation where you go back and check vacuum hose and electrical connections closely. The MAF sensor is one electrical connector that you had to take off in order to remove the air cleaner. The Swirl Control Valve Vacuum Control Switch is on the strut tower and maybe you bumped this or something when you were working on the car.

 

Hi Dennis. I'm pretty sure that everything is connected (hoses, plugs, switches). I'm having a mechanic bring a computer to diagnose the problem today. I will double-check to make sure everything is where is should be. I'll keep you updated. Thank you.

 

UPDATE: I didn't need to remove MAF sensor to get to starter I had to remove the air box that housed it, but the MAF sensor was untouched. In fact, all I did was remove negative battery terminal, remove the first section of intake and the air filter (box) that was housed between that initial section of intake and the throttle body. The actual throttle body and anything else was not removed. I removed and re-installed a new starter by only removing the aforementioned. I Checked all hoses and terminals - everything is in place. However, I did notice that the new starter terminal doesn't fit all the way, like the old one in the "female" connection of the car. Nonetheless, it works anyway. Got a code reader to read the computer, but since the battery was unplugged, it removed any temporary data like codes and the time on clock and temporary mileage odometer. Mechanic told me he's getting another computer to read the codes. I'm just ever so patiently waiting till he arrives !....Speak of the devil. Just got off the phone with mechanic and he's saying the crank sensors will be replaced. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks again.

 

Hi my name is nic I'm new here n I have a 2001 SE maxima. Hope to make some friends n get help with my car n mabye help others when I can
I recently put in the injen cold air intake and it seems there's a bit of pressure as in I need to upgrade the exhaust pipes and muffler but I don't know if my car will fit 3 inch piping... I'm new to car mods this is my first car. So I guess I'm just asking for a little direction
I do want good sound but I am more focused on performance I also live in California so I have to worry about how loud n emissions..

I also have a question about where to get the wires or do I need a whole new ecu to hook it up to my computer for tuning

 

hello,
i am having a hard thud when downshifting coming to a stop on my 2000 auto maxima. i have read in a few places that it could be the solenoids or the TCM. i performed a TCM SELF-DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE (NO TOOLS), found in the fsm, and the O/D light stays on. the fsm says that this could be Park/neutral position (PNP) switch, overdrive control switch or throttle position switch circuit is disconnected or TCM is damaged. how do i distinguish what it causing my problem? any help would be appreciated.

 

I'm not brand new here but I am am having some trouble locating some posts (or threads) related to fixing the power seat and moonroof. Someone mentioned a while back that somewhere in the forum there is some detailed info on how to fix the power seat, and I am looking for the same info about the moonrof.
I have '02 SE and am just trying to get it into tip top shape without spending a fortune. If anyone can refer me to the right thread or posts that deal with these items, I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks!

P.S. I will probably find a couple of other things to fix, so that, so I'll check back when I come across those odds & ends....

 

Hey

I am not new here, but I have a noob question. What makes it a Titanium Edition. Is it body colour and gauges or what?


Thanks.

 

Exterior color, different finish on wheels, some interior accents, etc.

All cosmetic stuff.

 

Hey guys!

First and formost I just purchased my first Maxima April first 2013, and ever since i have been in love... I have not been able to close my browser in two weeks!!! - <maxima.org3

My question:

- I have an 03 Max GLE and im running through the simple bolt on mods spacers / sri / etc) and I am having a real hard time finding a concise answer on what i should do with my front PCV that leads into the stock intake.

I have already purchased MAF adapter and pipe/filter to craft my own SRI but I am finding mixed answers on whats best to do with that hose coming from the front valve cover. I plan on also doing the home made catch can, i just dont want to forget something and cause any lean motor activity - If its best i will drill a hole into my tubing and attatch the hose to my new intake but im not sure, but i would like more imput!

I hope i didnt break any forum rules making this post, it has been erking my brain searching and searching for the best possible solution to this, even if it is right under my nose.

 

Ti edition comes in more than 1 color. I've seen black, silver, blue and white as far as the features.

BUT, only the Polished Titanium exterior color comes Ti edition only, no other trims available for that color.

Also, in addition to what dj mentioned, the door sills are also different (silver, and read MAXIMA).


Nope, this is the right place to do it so you've done well.

As for the PCV, I'd just plumb it in between the TB and MAF, that keeps everything happy.

There are other methods, but the pay off, IMO, is not worth the trouble.

 

01 AE also comes with the Maxima door sills.

 

Nope, this is the right place to do it so you've done well.

As for the PCV, I'd just plumb it in between the TB and MAF, that keeps everything happy.

There are other methods, but the pay off, IMO, is not worth the trouble.[/QUOTE]

Great, I am making my own SRI using basic PVC and a dry flow filter with stock MAF and adapter and plan to use a 3/8 x 1/4 barb just like the ones used in the drain cage write up with maybe a little RTV to attach the pcv back to the intake. Does that sound like it should do the job nicely???

I'll post pictures eventually in a different thread. i love this car so much.

*update* i havent learned how to quote yet.. this is my first forum <nissan3

 

2000 Infiniti I30t, 141500m


- skip to April'13 to cut to the chase
- sorry for all the back ground information. if you're an enthusiast, and like to read 3am wining, read everything
- I don't think a post can get more detailed than this

Here’s the scoop. I bought my 2000 Infiniti I30t with 134,000 miles on it at purchase a year ago, and besides one big pain-in-the-*** unresolved issue it’s a really good car. Related issues I’ve experienced with it since I bought it was loss of power, engine cutting off when idling or shifting into park, habitual check engine light, and the biggest problem of all – awful gas mileage. I really like the car and want to keep if for a few years or so but I need to crack down on this gas issue. asap!

The problem is that it gets me anywhere from 15mpg to 19mpg ON HIGHWAY. The check engine light has been cutting on and off since shortly after I bought it. I had first thought there was a problem with the transmission because when stepping on the gas all the way it would pause, rev up, crawl, then would kick into gear then and finally take off (a bit). The error codes it gave me are p0171, p0172, p0174, and p0175 and have been the cause of the bad gas mileage and low power. These readings are basically fuel too rich or fuel too lean. At least 3 of those readings came from an AutoZone worker who ran the code tester on it.

(June’12)The first crack I took at this issue was after the first code reading (which I think had produced 2 error codes for it, because I then went and bought 2 O2 sensors) the AutoZone guy said it’s the O2 sensors that are the cause of this. I don’t know why I fell for it, but he said, “they go bad every 10 years”. So in 2012, I thought I thought that made sense and gave it to my mechanic to install. I did get better, but then eventually lost power again codes came back. (At this point can’t remember if the same error codes had come back yet or just other ones popped up. Also, I can’t confirm if the codes were ever cleared to begin with) Some months later I tried to changed the next 2 o2 sensors and got on changed, but was quoted $500 to change the last one which would have been about 2 days worth of worth of work just to get to it.

(October ‘12)At the time I had the last sensor changed is when I saw a difference. I was pissed that I have a v6 engine and wasn’t able to take off from a stop (no power). After doing some investigating online I came across something that said to clean the throttle body, which I had done at the same time I had the 3rd one changed. I don’t know if my mechanic took it out to clean it or just sprayed in the area where its at with the cleaner I bought, but when I took it after is when I noticed the biggest difference in terms of performance. Since then the car has never went back to how it was performing prior to that.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________

(April’13)Now that I’m doing a lot of highway driving, I started keeping track of how its doing on gas and that does have a problem. So I took it back to my mechanic a the past 3 Fridays in a row to isolate the problem without just jumping to change the last O2 sensor. The first time I was recommended to put fuel system cleaner into gas tank ( to clean out carbon and get rid of possible water in tank). Didn’t work. Next week: changed cooling sensor (mechanic said was a cheap way to give system a reset system), checked for vacuum leak, sprayed mass air flow sensor/area with cleaner, ran code scanner to see what error codes came up after and instead of 3 from AutoZone (p0171/p0172/p0174), only p0172 and p0175 came up. After this was done, I noticed I had some kick back. I filled up with gas and check engine light came back almost a week later. At the same time the gas seemed to not be burning at all and after doing 235 miles on about 15.3 gallons on previous fill-up (15.36mpg), I did 273.3 miles on about 13.2 gallons (20.61mpg). A significant increase!

Took car back to mechanic last week to check code to see what came on this time: p0171 came up. He cleared system, in which check engine light came back on 15 minutes after leaving his shop, and instructed to put in fuel system cleaner again. Put in 2 small bottles of Lucas oil, and still check engine light hasn't gone off since (not because of lucas brand, I don't think).

I'm posting here now because after yesterdays gas full up, it already seems like gas may be burning faster than it did from last one.

So the two times I’ve actually noticed major differences is when I told mechanic to clean throttle body, which I never watched him do, and when I had him clean the mass airflow sensor, which he just sprayed in the cylinder area that looked like the same area where the throttle was supposed to be. Now, if he did the same thing when cleaning the throttle body then he may have really cleaned the MAF (or vice versa) and if my logic serves me correct, is THIS where my problem lies? Is there something wrong with Throttle body or IACV or MAF or all of them?

Side notes:
One time last year (pre throttle body cleaning) I pulled into a parking lot and my engine cut off when I came to a stop and I had just come off the highway (doing around 50-70mph).

A month or two ago I ran into a manhole cover that was sticking up (just my luck) and it hit the crap out of something underneath my car. After that, when coming off highway or even warming car up to normal operating temperature rpms would waver a bit when in park then almost shut off. When coming off highway (in particular), there was almost a 50% chance of cutting off when in park. Mechanic referred to exhaust shop based on symptoms and found that exhaust pipe was rusted and hanging by thread and needed welding. Shop said muffler broke off when I hit manhole cover.

After exhaust pipe was fixed there was still some rpm dropping when parked. After MAF area cylinder spraying, I haven't really noticed any dropping in rpm when park- nothing significant, if at all.

 

Some basic maintenance questions to start with -
How is the air filter? Has it been changed recently?
What do the spark plugs look like when removed? Have they ever been changed?
If the MAF is the problem, spray cleaning only works maybe a third of the time.
Have you had the catalytic converter checked for being plugged up?

 

Air filter is about a year old, oil change place type. Doesnt seem bad, I think. But I did buy a new k&n one that I'm putting in today.
Spark plugs were installed brand new about a year ago right after I bought car, ngk? or bosch? platinums. And I haven't had catalytic converter checked.

Today I went back to my mechanic and he did fuel system spraying his time. Ton of stink smoke came out of exhaust, and he showed me some dark colored/ greenish looking gunk on ground that came out of exhaust from from spraying and said this was carbon. After driving home, I don't know if my mind is messing with me, but idling seems a tad bit shaky, it think its unnoticeable if its not your car. I also didn't notice any gain in power, if anything it seems like I lost some - compared to the MAF cleaning. Compared to how it was before MAF cleaning, it might be the same.

Guess I have to drive it on highway to see what happens next.

Any thoughts or ideas?

 

I really don't have any solid, 100% sure ideas. Since you do not work on the car yourself, it is more difficult to get information as you must ask your mechanic. I'm sure your mechanic is trying his best to fix your car, but this may be a situation where you find another mechanic to diagnose the problem. A second set of eyes can be helpful. If you can find a shop that specializes in Japanese cars, this would probably be best.