George has a point. It looks like the rubber protector burnt/melted - this does not look like natural deterioration to me. Perhaps there was a short of some kind that melted the rubber. At any rate, it does not matter ....

To replace it, try Rockauto.com, the dealer, your local store, e-Bay, or just make up something (electrical tape). Use a lot of grease to protect and isolate. Also, I would replace the socket - it's only about $1.50 at Rockauto.com.

 

I tried looking in the parts listings for the rubber seal but could not find it. I suspect that it is considered to be part of the wire harness. Unless you have clean underwear handy, you don't want to know the price of a wire harness.

You will probably have to hit up a junk yard and cut the connector off of a junked car, a 2000 or 2001 and splice. When you get the junkyard part, get as much wire as you can.

When you do wire splicing in spots exposed to the elements, solder the wires. Crimp connections will corrode in time.

 

OP needs to research how that plastic melted that much imo. It isn't normal

 

Probably happened over time after the plastic boot got cracked...then water got in there and electricity n water dont mix..

 

Hello, I was hoping someone could help me out. I have a 2000 SE with 215,XXXm. I keep hearing a harsh noise coming from my left front tire. I noticed 2 wheel studs were loose/broken. Could it be just the wheel studs or the wheel hub assembly?

 

Inspect the bearings too

Good brand is Timken or OEM

 

Broken studs can be replaced. But if a stud is loose in the hub, then the hub will need to be replaced. Check all the remaining studs to see if the rim has been "chopping" them and damaging the the thread or making grooves in them.

And while you are at it, check the bearing.

 

Bought a new battery yesterday, negative terminal must be smaller because the metal connecter that is supposed to be tightened onto it keeps slipping right off even though its as tight as it gets. Driving around with it tied down to the battery til I figure it out... Should I just replace the connector?

 

No. go to your local auto parts store and get some battery post shims. It is like a cap that fits over the battery post and makes it thicker. They are only around a dollar. Even Walmart sells them, but at an inflated price.

 

Brand new to the maintenance thing with my 2000 Maxima SE, so figured I'd start with replacing the PCV Valve, cleaning the throttle body, and cleaning the MAF.
My original PCV Hose snapped in half so had to wait a week to get a new one and was finally able to get that PCV/grommet into the valve cover.

Hooked everything back up, started the car and there was a kind of a hissing sound, and the car "puttered," and stalled. Before replacing/cleaning, my car would sometimes putter when cold, but other than that, it was fine.
Now, it runs terribly, and I tried driving it about 100 yards to the mailbox and it stalled every 10 feet. I could barely get it back into my garage because it wouldn't "go" and then stall.

Obviously, I did something wrong. The PCV Valve looks like it's in there, but wouldn't that be the cause of the hissing?
What do I need to fix now?

Thanks

 

^
Air is leaking somewhere

 

I had an issue with my left side low beam light wouldn't come on. I took it to a shop, and replaced my Daytime Running Light Module. Now my right light is stuck on high beam and my left side comes on. Is my DRL's wired wrong?


Thanks in Advance,

Howard Robinson

 

How much time passed between the shop replacing the module and your current problem? I would hope that you have some sort of warranty on the part and labor. I also wonder exactly what the shop did, if they actually put in a brand new module or something else.

Those running light modules are a never ending source of problems. Most of the time the module's problem is broken solder connections caused by the original soldering being done at too low a temperature. An electronic tech can look at the printed circuit board inside the module and tell you right away if this is the case. A few minutes with a hot soldering iron and your are good to go.

But since you had it done by a shop, it's their problem.

 

Regarding my previous post (4 posts above?) with the PCV replacement, MAF cleaning, and TB cleaning...

I was able to get the car to idle (1000 rpms) for a couple minutes, then it went down to 500, and gradually went back up to 1000.
Still makes a strange noise (I wish I could upload a sound file) a kind of constant "whirring."
Tried to find a vacuum leak by using water (didn't want to use brake cleaner) around the hoses I messed with, and nothing really different happened.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

Took it back today to have them take a look at it, they treated me like I was an idiot and didn't know what I was talking about. They also changed their story and said the replacement module that I provided, was missing some parts. They didn't say anything when I gave them the replacement module to install. They said everything was working the way it should , and consider the work done. They also told me that I have a blown out right high beam light.
I replaced the right light light and still have no right side high beam light. This problem is getting annoying now, I have daytime running lights and low beam lights on both sides, but what the heck is causing my right high beam light to not come on?

 

Between your two posts, you are describing different problems. But it doesn't matter. I still think the DRL module has a problem.

Where did you get the DRL module that you had the mechanic install from? Was it used? If so, what year car did it come out of?

You need to get your hands on a known good DRL module as a test unit and install it in your car and see what happens.

 

Well, so I removed the air filter housing, etc, checked the hoses...nothing.
Put everything back in, started car...same whirring noise, and stall shortly after.
Was about to give up when I thought about the MAF sensor causing problems with other people, so figured I'd remove it and see if it does anything...
Lo and behold, the noise stopped, and I was able to drive the car without stalling!
Would a bad MAF Sensor cause the noise? (I guess it had to)
Anyway, ordered a new MAF and will hopefully be good to go now.


Now for front brake pad replacement!

 

I'm new to these forums. I have an 02 se also got last aug 2013 the guy who owned it bought cheap ebay steel headers. There completely rotting out I had the y pipe off and did sone re welding and $150 in parts and 3 days later finished but now it's 10 times worse and in separate need of headers. I only find the obx ss headers anywhere online I orderd twice from two different sites that sai they were in stock but next day both refunded and now I'm screwed can anyone pls help

 

Also does anyone know why the throttle only opens 87.7% and not 100%. I'm using torque

 

^^ You will need to look around on this site and elsewhere in used classifieds to find your headers...seems like obx ss arent available new anymore

As for your throttle issue, I have no idea but something seems wrong and since you got dbw I would imagine its all electronics/computer related at this point not mechanical.

 

Thank you I didn't know they aren't avalible new from OBX any more everyone just keeps telling me there in back order. I'll have to look around more still figuring this forum thing out lol thanks again

 

Ahh I thought so! Thanks again.

Another question, I'm replacing (rear) brakes and rotors this weekend. When I jack the car up I know that parking brake can't be on because it would make the rotor very difficult (impossible?) to remove. Will pumping up the foot-brake be sufficient? The last thing I need is the car coming down on me so I just wanted to verify

 

^
Are you flushing the fluids too?

If you have a hard time finding those battery shims, go to a metal shop around town and ask for some scrap metal.

Free

 

You are correct about the parking brake. Pumping the foot brake won't do anything for you unless you are bleeding the brakes. Otherwise you don't want to touch the brake pedal if you have the brakes in any stage of dis-assembly. You have to use something like wheel chocks to keep the car from rolling. Even a big rock will suffice.

 

Hi folks, I just bought a 2002 Maxima GLE with TCS, and noticed issues with the Instrument Cluster(IC). I'm not sure where to post my questions, so here they are.

The IC is acting "Wonky": The speedo "sticks" at 40 Mph and will not go beyond 40 unless you tap vigorously on the dash above it; The tachometer will sometimes get stuck at 3k RPM and not go back down to idle unless you tap on the dash; The fuel gauge read 3/4 when I bought the car, and then the low fule light came on, and we put nearly 16 gallons in, now it reads beyond full even though I have driven at least 100 miles since filling the tank.

I pulled the IC out of the car, and made sure the connectors were all tight and free of corrosion. I spun the gauges and did not feel any "Catches" at 40 Mph or 3k RPM.

My question is: Is it worth the money to buy another IC to test and rule out a motherboard issue with my current IC, or does anyone have a better idea than dropping $125.00 just to "MAYBE" fix the issues?

Thanks,
Chad

 

^
You could get a cluster gauge from a site like www.car-part.com for less

Is the car feeling monky? Power loss and such? Then it could be something else

 

The engine and transmission feel good and strong. I really hope it's just the IC. I'll check out that site when I get to a pc.

Thanks

 

Like if your maf gone wonky... There is supposedly power issues around that RPM range

 

I See what your saying, but the engine feels strong up to about 4500 - 5000 RPM. I haven't (and don't plan to) pushed it any harder than that. I read an article on my phone today about Electronic IC's being affected by a bad (but not blown) fuse. I will try and take a look at the fuse panel tomorrow too.

With that website you recommended, do you know if its search can drill down to 2002 maxima models with TCS and tilt steering, or is it limited to fairly generic searches like just 2002 AT maxima's?

Thanks again for you input.

 

^
car-parts.com isn't that specific sadly.

Maybe there's a way to fix the sticky needles?

 

Actually, all Maximas have tilt steering.

But, Car-part is quite clever. They do have options as to when a certain item was changed and also asks for things like VLSD/HLSD, so I wouldn't be surprised that it would have TCS, etc.

But, why not just go to the site and see for yourself?




Included details on my quick search on that site:

 

Hey im new. I bought a 96 maxima. They had the water pump replaced last year. Ok so the car over heated when you took it over 75mph. So I changed out the theremstat and flushed out the radiator it seem fine until we was driving around for about a hour and it started to over heat! The guy said one hose was hot and the other was cold. I was wonder in my raditor cap is bent would that cause it to over heat like that? Also my AC fan and heat only work when it wants to any suggestions thank you

 

Wrong section buddy

1996 are gen 4

 

You probably have a combination of 2 things.

One hose hot and one hose cold indicates a thermostat that isn't opening up. On these cars, only use a Nissan thermostat. All other brands have a tendency to not work properly.

Another thing is that these cars tend to trap air in the engine. You need to either park the car on an incline with the nose up or get the car on some ramps so that the nose is up. Then run the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens up and the air pockets burble out. Be careful because the air will shoot coolant out the open filler neck if the radiator is real full. Once the air is out, fill the radiator completely and put the cap on.

And on future posts, please use the 4th generation section. 4th gen = 95 to 99 cars.

 

I bout my 02 maxima about 6 months ago an did a full tune up on it. I recently went in for a oil change an the dealer said I had a oil leak on the rear valve cover. I bought the gaskets an did it myself. After I put it back together it's now misfiring and can't seem to figure out why. I pulled it apart several times checkin everything I could think of but still nothin.

I pulled the codes an it says random misfire but doesn't pull the codes for any specific cylinder.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!!

 

I suspect that oil is getting down into one or more of your spark plugs. Perhaps because you didn't replace the gasket properly, or you got bad gasket, or for other reasons. My car (3.0L) is different than the 3.5L, but I am aware of the following issues with the 3.5L engine:

• The engine uses oil because the oil seeps through the valve cover gasket; the oil usually seeps down into the spark cavity on cylinder #5; there are numerous posts on the subject (just use Search).
• When replacing the gasket, most people replace both the gasket and the valve cover using 6th Gen parts, rather than 5th Gen parts. The reason is that the 6-Gen parts fit perfectly(basically, they are the same as 5gen); moreover, they are cheaper because Nissan charges more for 5th Gen as they have a problem. You can get them from www.factorynissanparts.com or from Courtesyparts.com. Make sure you get the 6th gen ones.

At any rate, you should check your ignition cables and spark plugs. One or more of them will be bad or marginal.

 

Redo the work with a GEN 6 (2004) Nissan maxima valve cover part and gasket.

 

2000 Maxima SE...
Did radiator flush, replaced upper/lower hoses, and replaced coolant with Nissan Brand.
Was driving to the store (3 miles) and noticed I wasn't getting any heat...pulled into parking lot, popped the hood, and the upper radiator hose had come off (the original clamp was a little too small). Luckily I was right next to Advanced Auto, so got one of those adjustable clamps and a pair of long needle nose pliers.
Got the hose back on and drove back home.
On the way home, temp gauge kept going up (probably from the loss of coolant) so kept stopping to let car cool down.
Fast forward to today.
Replaced coolant, and ran car. Heat took quite a while until it warmed the car, but of course it was about 15 degrees this morning.
After running for a while, noticed that the coolant had gone down significantly in the radiator, resevoir still full, and no apparent leaks.


Is this a head gasket problem?

TIA

 

You have air in your system. Park on a steep incline or jack up the front and run it with heat on and rad cap off until all air is out.

 

Seems this was the issue. I had done it after flushing, but I guess I needed to do it again after the hose came off.

Thanks